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What kind of hotmelt do you use?


AcesAZ

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Whats the best?
I need to find out what the best kind of hotmelt/rat glue is the best and where to buy it. I don't want something that is too hard that could break apart but not something too soft either that has a low melting point. I leave my clubs in my trunk sometimes so erroring on the high temp melting point is much better for me. I also thought about bringing it to a clubbulider but I do all my own work myself and I do not know if the clubbuilder would use the best stuff anyways. I've searched every thread and nowhere have I seen anyone mention brands etc, except that the hard stick kind is breakable thus possibly causing rattles.

HELP!!!!
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This stuff is expensive, Why buy it if you only use it occationally only?

 

Putting rat glue to much in the head will make the head inconsistent performance, especially on a hot summer day black car trunk. The glue will liqufy and run to what the club laid.

 

There are some rat glue that stand a bit more heat but the application is a PITA. Need to head up the head first to make sure the glue will stick and won't create ratlle later on.

 

Good Luck!

 

Joe

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This stuff is expensive, Why buy it if you only use it occationally only?

 

Putting rat glue to much in the head will make the head inconsistent performance, especially on a hot summer day black car trunk. The glue will liqufy and run to what the club laid.

 

There are some rat glue that stand a bit more heat but the application is a PITA. Need to head up the head first to make sure the glue will stick and won't create ratlle later on.

 

Good Luck!

 

Joe

 

Joe, You're right, it is a pain in the @%%!!! Problem is I do leave my clubs in my trunk sometimes and there really is no way around it for me (finding the right stuff that won't run but won't rattle later on either). I guess I could send it to you and have you do it,thing is I do like to do my own work (satisfaction more than anything) and making sure it is done right ( seen alot of bad chop jobs, none from you of course!!!). I've reshafted and regripped plenty of clubs (many FT-3's drilled out etc, I'm willing to go the extra mile) and this to me shouldn't be a big deal, it's just finding the right product that isn't to much $$$$ either.

 

What do you think about that stuff in my link above? Have you used it before or can you recommend a product?

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It's all depending on what is the purpose and goals here.

 

Also How much room you have to add weight to the head?

 

I'm completely understand on what and how you do, but sometimes cost effectiveness are not realistic, unless money is no object to you. :good: Find also a good clubmaker who are willing to do the extra mile also if you have to.

 

If you have plenty of room on adding the weight, Looking for a solid muted sound, enough height on your ball flight and you have the skill, tools and time to do it...Cotton ball or foam treatment are the way to go probably!

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It's all depending on what is the purpose and goals here.

 

Also How much room you have to add weight to the head?

 

I'm completely understand on what and how you do, but sometimes cost effectiveness are not realistic, unless money is no object to you. :good: Find also a good clubmaker who are willing to do the extra mile also if you have to.

 

If you have plenty of room on adding the weight, Looking for a solid muted sound, enough height on your ball flight and you have the skill, tools and time to do it...Cotton ball or foam treatment are the way to go probably!

 

I have plenty of room for my first head (Burner TP V1). I believe the headweight to be in the 198-200 range (haven't pulled it yet) and will want to bring it to the 206 range. Play the club at 44.5" with a 75 gram shaft. I will likely do many more down the road (I'm a Ho of course), Hybrids, Fwys and Drivers. This is not just a one time deal.

 

Can you fill a head half ways with cotton and not see any side effects from the possible shifting? I think hotmelt is the best way to go to meet specific headweights? What do you think Joe?

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It's all depending on what is the purpose and goals here.

 

Also How much room you have to add weight to the head?

 

I'm completely understand on what and how you do, but sometimes cost effectiveness are not realistic, unless money is no object to you. :good: Find also a good clubmaker who are willing to do the extra mile also if you have to.

 

If you have plenty of room on adding the weight, Looking for a solid muted sound, enough height on your ball flight and you have the skill, tools and time to do it...Cotton ball or foam treatment are the way to go probably!

 

 

It's all depending on what is the purpose and goals here.

 

Also How much room you have to add weight to the head?

 

I'm completely understand on what and how you do, but sometimes cost effectiveness are not realistic, unless money is no object to you. :D Find also a good clubmaker who are willing to do the extra mile also if you have to.

 

If you have plenty of room on adding the weight, Looking for a solid muted sound, enough height on your ball flight and you have the skill, tools and time to do it...Cotton ball or foam treatment are the way to go probably!

 

I have plenty of room for my first head (Burner TP V1). I believe the headweight to be in the 198-200 range (haven't pulled it yet) and will want to bring it to the 206 range. Play the club at 44.5" with a 75 gram shaft. I will likely do many more down the road (I'm a Ho of course), Hybrids, Fwys and Drivers. This is not just a one time deal.

 

Can you fill a head half ways with cotton and not see any side effects from the possible shifting? I think hotmelt is the best way to go to meet specific headweights? What do you think Joe?

 

 

You can't fill halfway with cotton - it'll shift. You CAN add a small amount of rattlestop, settle it down to the sole, then carefully work some unrolled cotton over the same surface with dental probes. Time consuming and usually requires an additional hole in the sole, but it won't shift. Real hotmelt applicators are VERY expensive for a hobbyist. Messy but fun of course. With the Burner TP the simplest thing is just to replace the weight in the heel with a heavier one - I'm sure Joey can get those - but that doesn't solve the other heads you have in mind

2017 M2/Matrix Ozik F6M2
Cally XHP 15°/Altus or 3Deep/Striper H2
Cobra F8 4-5/F7M2
Cally XHP23/Altus hb or Cally X-Prototype 24°/Program 95
6-GW Cobra Forged One Length on flighted Matrix Program 95 OR MP-H4 ON PROGRAM F15
Scratch D/D wedges
Bettinardi QB3

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It's all depending on what is the purpose and goals here.

 

Also How much room you have to add weight to the head?

 

I'm completely understand on what and how you do, but sometimes cost effectiveness are not realistic, unless money is no object to you. :good: Find also a good clubmaker who are willing to do the extra mile also if you have to.

 

If you have plenty of room on adding the weight, Looking for a solid muted sound, enough height on your ball flight and you have the skill, tools and time to do it...Cotton ball or foam treatment are the way to go probably!

 

I have plenty of room for my first head (Burner TP V1). I believe the headweight to be in the 198-200 range (haven't pulled it yet) and will want to bring it to the 206 range. Play the club at 44.5" with a 75 gram shaft. I will likely do many more down the road (I'm a Ho of course), Hybrids, Fwys and Drivers. This is not just a one time deal.

 

Can you fill a head half ways with cotton and not see any side effects from the possible shifting? I think hotmelt is the best way to go to meet specific headweights? What do you think Joe?

 

Filling up full of cotton balls inside 460cc heads are only around 7-8 gr total, you don't need to go half way.

 

Honestly, I don't need another holes...it's easier to have another one to see where you are going, but don't need it!

 

Don't like it? You can blow this of with an air compressor out. Hot melt is reeversible too, but a lot measier work and a real PITA!

 

If you want a permanent fixed and knows what exactly you need and want, you can even fill it up with mixtures of tungsten powder with 24hrs epoxy. Warm the head up and let it sit where you want the epoxy to cure. Or Foam fill treatment.

 

Bare in mind, All this talk are sound easier in writing that the actual work. IMO It takes a lot of experience to do it correctly with no mistake without changing the integrity of the club whether reversible or fixed method.

 

Hot melt are only for a quick fix up to a certain point only before you end up with an inconsistent head. Yes, 10 grams equal 1/8" on the sweet spot placement...but enough for a feel players to make this head feel inconsistent IMO.

 

The only negative about cotton ball treatment is that it will alter a bit of the CG.

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Joe, I want to mute the sound of my superquad and have hit a foamed head, but the foam had shifted and rattled. How can I make it feel and sound like that without running the risk of it shifting? Weight is no issue, I can just use smaller weights. Will cotton do the same thing and how do I get it in?

Foam will not shifted if it domne properly with the right barnd of foam.

 

Patient are read the instruction properly are the keys here.

 

For cotton ball teratment, you just have to push it little by little thorugh the hosel or any holes until it fill up completely with the right density and weight.

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30 heads ?

Good for you.

Most club repair/fit guys talk about hot melt and rat glue but they don't do it. Too much messy work for them so instead they use tip weights which is not as good.

 

The stuff I got came in a vacum sealed bag with my gun. I had a friend that got it for me off one of the tour vans. The glue almost looks like honeycomb and i've done over 30 heads now and no problems.
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