Paint fill 101

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  • benno_rbenno_r Members Posts: 758 ✭✭
    I had my first major paintfill fail today. Background:

    Refurbed Golo N7 in January, did the paintfill then using Tarmiya Acrylic. No issue at all for the next 4 months.



    Putter has been stored in car last 3 days, getting used each day. Temp is max 30degC during the day. First 2 days putter is used, no issue. Puleld the putter out today to a heap of paintfill being smeared on the sole only (see attached).



    First time I have used the putter at this new club. Any ideas as to what has caused this? Something been sprayed on the greens maybe?



    Cheers,

    Ben
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  • matchavezmatchavez Members Posts: 4,136 ✭✭
    benno_r wrote:


    I had my first major paintfill fail today. Background:

    Refurbed Golo N7 in January, did the paintfill then using Tarmiya Acrylic. No issue at all for the next 4 months.



    Putter has been stored in car last 3 days, getting used each day. Temp is max 30degC during the day. First 2 days putter is used, no issue. Puleld the putter out today to a heap of paintfill being smeared on the sole only (see attached).



    First time I have used the putter at this new club. Any ideas as to what has caused this? Something been sprayed on the greens maybe?



    Cheers,

    Ben




    Was it in your trunk or exposed to high temps? Assuming it didn't have a hardener applied after...
  • benno_rbenno_r Members Posts: 758 ✭✭
    edited May 24, 2018 #1324
    matchavez wrote:

    benno_r wrote:


    I had my first major paintfill fail today. Background:

    Refurbed Golo N7 in January, did the paintfill then using Tarmiya Acrylic. No issue at all for the next 4 months.



    Putter has been stored in car last 3 days, getting used each day. Temp is max 30degC during the day. First 2 days putter is used, no issue. Puleld the putter out today to a heap of paintfill being smeared on the sole only (see attached).



    First time I have used the putter at this new club. Any ideas as to what has caused this? Something been sprayed on the greens maybe?



    Cheers,

    Ben




    Was it in your trunk or exposed to high temps? Assuming it didn't have a hardener applied after...




    In the back seat - was the same temp over 3 days (approx 30degC). First 2 days it was fine, 3rd day this happened.



    I have never heard of hardener being added to acrylic paint fill, can you please elaborate?



    Edit: The paint on the face, in the cavity, and on the site line are fine. It's only the sole.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
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    Adams Tight Lies Titanium - VTS Silver
    Mizuno JPX850 - Altus Hybrid
    Ping e1 4-GW - Paderson Kevlar Green 110
    GrindWorks 54/58
    Edel / Lajosi / Ping / Xenon / Odyssey / Black Lab on rotation
  • matchavezmatchavez Members Posts: 4,136 ✭✭
    benno_r wrote:

    matchavez wrote:

    benno_r wrote:


    I had my first major paintfill fail today. Background:

    Refurbed Golo N7 in January, did the paintfill then using Tarmiya Acrylic. No issue at all for the next 4 months.



    Putter has been stored in car last 3 days, getting used each day. Temp is max 30degC during the day. First 2 days putter is used, no issue. Puleld the putter out today to a heap of paintfill being smeared on the sole only (see attached).



    First time I have used the putter at this new club. Any ideas as to what has caused this? Something been sprayed on the greens maybe?



    Cheers,

    Ben




    Was it in your trunk or exposed to high temps? Assuming it didn't have a hardener applied after...




    In the back seat - was the same temp over 3 days (approx 30degC). First 2 days it was fine, 3rd day this happened.



    I have never heard of hardener being added to acrylic paint fill, can you please elaborate?



    Edit: The paint on the face, in the cavity, and on the site line are fine. It's only the sole.




    Ya, so I just mean a clear coat after you're happy.



    I'm looking at this, and I'm a bit perplexed... at first, I thought, trunk, heat conduction, softened paint. But it also looks like it's in conjunction with contact. Looking at the paint here, it's going out of its boundaries in different directions. The yellow made it all the way into the L. So I can only give you two theories...



    One, you had it warm enough the paint got soft, and you then made contact with something like a brush or similar that it dug out a little and smeared.

    Two, you made contact with a mild solvent. This could have been just a drop or two, or some funky insecticide or fertiliser on the green itself, and it ran and smudged.



    I lean towards theory two because of the varying direction of smear, the intermixing, and the idea that you only had it on the bottom.



    If it's theory one, you may have made it warm enough, and the only contact you made was on the bottom. If you had a cover on it, it makes it even more implausible. Either way, something softened it, and the pigment ran in random ways. That makes me think it's #2.



    I say when you redo it, let it sit 48h, then do a clear coat on the bottom. Good luck.
  • masyankeesmasyankees Members Posts: 556
    edited Jun 12, 2018 #1326
    Just changed the paint fill on my putter. Wanted to fill with different colors than my wedges (which are green and white) and eventually decided that since it's pride month, I'd go with rainbow. This was my first attempt with multiple colors in the same fill area, and it turned out pretty good.



    The blue on the bottom should probably be a lighter shade to stand out better, but I don't think I'll go through the trouble to redo the whole thing for that. I mixed the blue with a bit of white paint for the back of the putter and I think the shade of blue is a little better there.



  • semarlorsemarlor Charlotte, NCMembers Posts: 612 ✭✭
    Anybody else see this on Instagram? Someone asked Aaron Dill his preferred paint when stamping wedges...the answer surprised me! Looks like the stuff is easily available at craft stores in a ton of colors. Is anyone using it? Any feedback on durability?
  • matchavezmatchavez Members Posts: 4,136 ✭✭
    semarlor wrote:


    Anybody else see this on Instagram? Someone asked Aaron Dill his preferred paint when stamping wedges...the answer surprised me! Looks like the stuff is easily available at craft stores in a ton of colors. Is anyone using it? Any feedback on durability?




    Well, stamps are different from other paint fills. In short, there's almost no durability issues if the paint fill is in a non-impact area. Paint fill that is on the ground-side of the club is a different issue and requires a harder enamel, acrylic, or a hardening agent.



    If it's just in the stamp on the back of a wedge, really anything will do.
  • semarlorsemarlor Charlotte, NCMembers Posts: 612 ✭✭
    matchavez wrote:

    semarlor wrote:


    Anybody else see this on Instagram? Someone asked Aaron Dill his preferred paint when stamping wedges...the answer surprised me! Looks like the stuff is easily available at craft stores in a ton of colors. Is anyone using it? Any feedback on durability?




    Well, stamps are different from other paint fills. In short, there's almost no durability issues if the paint fill is in a non-impact area. Paint fill that is on the ground-side of the club is a different issue and requires a harder enamel, acrylic, or a hardening agent.



    If it's just in the stamp on the back of a wedge, really anything will do.




    Didn't even think about that, smaller and shallower on stamps...very good point!
  • CwingCwing Members Posts: 8,047 ✭✭
    In the read this thread.
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  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    semarlor wrote:

    matchavez wrote:

    semarlor wrote:


    Anybody else see this on Instagram? Someone asked Aaron Dill his preferred paint when stamping wedges...the answer surprised me! Looks like the stuff is easily available at craft stores in a ton of colors. Is anyone using it? Any feedback on durability?




    Well, stamps are different from other paint fills. In short, there's almost no durability issues if the paint fill is in a non-impact area. Paint fill that is on the ground-side of the club is a different issue and requires a harder enamel, acrylic, or a hardening agent.



    If it's just in the stamp on the back of a wedge, really anything will do.




    Didn't even think about that, smaller and shallower on stamps...very good point!




    Enamel will be the most durable but it takes forever to cure. I usually use enamel when I fill in anything on the sole like the number. I think the best and most vibrant paint is Tamiya acrylic. I wouldn't be surprised if that's what Scotty uses on his putters because the translucent colors are a spot on match.
  • salmon2salmon2 Members Posts: 93 ✭✭
    I've used Testors and it has held up great.
  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    salmon2 wrote:


    I've used Testors and it has held up great.




    Testors is enamel and that's usually what I use for any high traffic areas. The pens work great for numbers on the soles of irons and wedges. I used to buy One Shot enamel but they'd dry out before I was able to use them.



    Check out the Tamiya jars on Amazon. They seal great and last forever. The Testors pens also last a long time. I've got a black pen that I've probably had for five years and I used it yesterday to fill in some numbers.
  • Yanki01Yanki01 TEXASMembers Posts: 6,039 ✭✭
    new flatstick - new color. debating on the sole color. leave it naked or maybe some blue/white/gray of some sort. haven't decided yet. color used was Tamiya Clear Blue plus a lot of Tamiya Clear. was going for the SC seabubble blue but came out a little darker although it looks great in the light.



    43804201974_7c6db9cf57_c.jpg



    44472066612_367d9853c1_c.jpg



    43804201984_5ba153a717_c.jpg
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  • stoneydukesstoneydukes ClubWRX Posts: 312 ClubWRX
    edited Sep 7, 2018 #1335
    I've had the black paint surrounding the face insert of my spider come off on two putters. What type of paint and brush would the group recommend to use in the very narrow slot between the insert and putter body (red)? and what to use for clean up that won't mess with the red color on the head?



    Thanks in advance.
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  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,502 ClubWRX
    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!

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  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    Yanki01 wrote:


    new flatstick - new color. debating on the sole color. leave it naked or maybe some blue/white/gray of some sort. haven't decided yet. color used was Tamiya Clear Blue plus a lot of Tamiya Clear. was going for the SC seabubble blue but came out a little darker although it looks great in the light.



    43804201974_7c6db9cf57_c.jpg



    44472066612_367d9853c1_c.jpg



    43804201984_5ba153a717_c.jpg




    You used a little too much paint. With the Tamiya translucents the more you use the darker it will be. It's really easy to go overboard and use too much. I've found that on the bombs you have on the face 3 drops is the right amount.
  • Yanki01Yanki01 TEXASMembers Posts: 6,039 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!




    i try to fill it in as clean as i can to avoid the clean up. many times i don't so what i do is for bigger areas like the dots on my Scotty Cameron up there - i let it sit for 24hrs. i'll use the blue shop towels from the auto store and cut small squares. use Testors or Tamiya paint thinner (or any paint thinner will do) and dip one square in paint thinner, give it a second to dry out a bit so it won't soak into your new paint job. then lightly rub the area with the square trying to avoid what i just painted. go over a few times then discard that square. get another and do the same. get another and do the same. repeat until you see the paint disappear. I'll do this about 3-4 times before it's gone. for stubborn areas i try to pick it off with a toothpick. then you can repeat again. once that's all done i'll get another square and dip in 100% acetone and lightly rub the area i just cleaned up.



    just need to be patient.
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  • Yanki01Yanki01 TEXASMembers Posts: 6,039 ✭✭

    Yanki01 wrote:


    new flatstick - new color. debating on the sole color. leave it naked or maybe some blue/white/gray of some sort. haven't decided yet. color used was Tamiya Clear Blue plus a lot of Tamiya Clear. was going for the SC seabubble blue but came out a little darker although it looks great in the light.



    43804201974_7c6db9cf57_c.jpg



    44472066612_367d9853c1_c.jpg



    43804201984_5ba153a717_c.jpg




    You used a little too much paint. With the Tamiya translucents the more you use the darker it will be. It's really easy to go overboard and use too much. I've found that on the bombs you have on the face 3 drops is the right amount.




    yeah it was a few too many drops of blue but i still like how it came out. i may re-do it at a later time when i get the color right.
    915D2 Rogue Silver 60S
    915F Rogue Black 80S
    915H Rogue Black 85S
    712u 4i Recoil F4 110
    714 AP2 5-PW Nippon Modus3 Tour 105x
    SM6 51.08F | 56.08M | 60.10S
    Scotty Cameron Mil-Spec 33/350G
    WITB || Scotty Cameron Mil-Spec
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,502 ClubWRX
    Yanki01 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!




    i try to fill it in as clean as i can to avoid the clean up. many times i don't so what i do is for bigger areas like the dots on my Scotty Cameron up there - i let it sit for 24hrs. i'll use the blue shop towels from the auto store and cut small squares. use Testors or Tamiya paint thinner (or any paint thinner will do) and dip one square in paint thinner, give it a second to dry out a bit so it won't soak into your new paint job. then lightly rub the area with the square trying to avoid what i just painted. go over a few times then discard that square. get another and do the same. get another and do the same. repeat until you see the paint disappear. I'll do this about 3-4 times before it's gone. for stubborn areas i try to pick it off with a toothpick. then you can repeat again. once that's all done i'll get another square and dip in 100% acetone and lightly rub the area i just cleaned up.



    just need to be patient.




    Yes, I also try to minimize the excess as well. I've bought the bottles with the fine needles and tried those as well but found this was more prone to getting air bubbles in the paint. I'll maybe do a test run using the paint thinner method of cleanup.



    Where this has been the biggest problem is where I've got multiple colors in very close/small areas where the colors have smeared together when trying to wipe away. I had asked Anthony Taranto (Callaway guy that does all the custom wedges for tours) once what he does to wipe off and this was the response I got was along the lines of he wipes the paint off with a dry rag like 60 seconds after he applies it. I never got good results trying that!

    > See my current WITB
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    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
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  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    edited Sep 7, 2018 #1341
    ddetts wrote:

    Yanki01 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!




    i try to fill it in as clean as i can to avoid the clean up. many times i don't so what i do is for bigger areas like the dots on my Scotty Cameron up there - i let it sit for 24hrs. i'll use the blue shop towels from the auto store and cut small squares. use Testors or Tamiya paint thinner (or any paint thinner will do) and dip one square in paint thinner, give it a second to dry out a bit so it won't soak into your new paint job. then lightly rub the area with the square trying to avoid what i just painted. go over a few times then discard that square. get another and do the same. get another and do the same. repeat until you see the paint disappear. I'll do this about 3-4 times before it's gone. for stubborn areas i try to pick it off with a toothpick. then you can repeat again. once that's all done i'll get another square and dip in 100% acetone and lightly rub the area i just cleaned up.



    just need to be patient.




    Yes, I also try to minimize the excess as well. I've bought the bottles with the fine needles and tried those as well but found this was more prone to getting air bubbles in the paint. I'll maybe do a test run using the paint thinner method of cleanup.



    Where this has been the biggest problem is where I've got multiple colors in very close/small areas where the colors have smeared together when trying to wipe away. I had asked Anthony Taranto (Callaway guy that does all the custom wedges for tours) once what he does to wipe off and this was the response I got was along the lines of he wipes the paint off with a dry rag like 60 seconds after he applies it. I never got good results trying that!




    The applicator bottles work the best. You turn them upside down and then squeeze a couple drops out on a piece of scrap paper. After that make sure you don't invert it before you apply to the area you want to fill. You won't get any bubbles that way.



    As far as how the Callaway guy does it I've found that for solid colors I use a business card to kind of squeegee the excess and then let everything dry completely before cleanup. If you get too much excess clean it up a little with a dry Q Tip when the paint is still wet avoiding the fill area.
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,502 ClubWRX

    ddetts wrote:

    Yanki01 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!




    i try to fill it in as clean as i can to avoid the clean up. many times i don't so what i do is for bigger areas like the dots on my Scotty Cameron up there - i let it sit for 24hrs. i'll use the blue shop towels from the auto store and cut small squares. use Testors or Tamiya paint thinner (or any paint thinner will do) and dip one square in paint thinner, give it a second to dry out a bit so it won't soak into your new paint job. then lightly rub the area with the square trying to avoid what i just painted. go over a few times then discard that square. get another and do the same. get another and do the same. repeat until you see the paint disappear. I'll do this about 3-4 times before it's gone. for stubborn areas i try to pick it off with a toothpick. then you can repeat again. once that's all done i'll get another square and dip in 100% acetone and lightly rub the area i just cleaned up.



    just need to be patient.




    Yes, I also try to minimize the excess as well. I've bought the bottles with the fine needles and tried those as well but found this was more prone to getting air bubbles in the paint. I'll maybe do a test run using the paint thinner method of cleanup.



    Where this has been the biggest problem is where I've got multiple colors in very close/small areas where the colors have smeared together when trying to wipe away. I had asked Anthony Taranto (Callaway guy that does all the custom wedges for tours) once what he does to wipe off and this was the response I got was along the lines of he wipes the paint off with a dry rag like 60 seconds after he applies it. I never got good results trying that!




    The applicator bottles work the best. You turn them upside down and then squeeze a couple drops out on a piece of scrap paper. After that make sure you don't invert it before you apply to the area you want to fill. You won't get any bubbles that way.



    As far as how the Callaway guy does it I've found that for solid colors I use a business card to kind of squeegee the excess and then let everything dry completely before cleanup. If you get too much excess clean it up a little with a dry Q Tip when the paint is still wet avoiding the fill area.




    I tried using Q-tips, but it did seem like they would still leave some cotton fibers in the paint a lot of the time. I bought some of these after my last attempt at paint fill didn't go great, I'll let everyone know how they work when I get a chance to use them.



    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JG31RSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
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  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    ddetts wrote:


    ddetts wrote:

    Yanki01 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!




    i try to fill it in as clean as i can to avoid the clean up. many times i don't so what i do is for bigger areas like the dots on my Scotty Cameron up there - i let it sit for 24hrs. i'll use the blue shop towels from the auto store and cut small squares. use Testors or Tamiya paint thinner (or any paint thinner will do) and dip one square in paint thinner, give it a second to dry out a bit so it won't soak into your new paint job. then lightly rub the area with the square trying to avoid what i just painted. go over a few times then discard that square. get another and do the same. get another and do the same. repeat until you see the paint disappear. I'll do this about 3-4 times before it's gone. for stubborn areas i try to pick it off with a toothpick. then you can repeat again. once that's all done i'll get another square and dip in 100% acetone and lightly rub the area i just cleaned up.



    just need to be patient.




    Yes, I also try to minimize the excess as well. I've bought the bottles with the fine needles and tried those as well but found this was more prone to getting air bubbles in the paint. I'll maybe do a test run using the paint thinner method of cleanup.



    Where this has been the biggest problem is where I've got multiple colors in very close/small areas where the colors have smeared together when trying to wipe away. I had asked Anthony Taranto (Callaway guy that does all the custom wedges for tours) once what he does to wipe off and this was the response I got was along the lines of he wipes the paint off with a dry rag like 60 seconds after he applies it. I never got good results trying that!




    The applicator bottles work the best. You turn them upside down and then squeeze a couple drops out on a piece of scrap paper. After that make sure you don't invert it before you apply to the area you want to fill. You won't get any bubbles that way.



    As far as how the Callaway guy does it I've found that for solid colors I use a business card to kind of squeegee the excess and then let everything dry completely before cleanup. If you get too much excess clean it up a little with a dry Q Tip when the paint is still wet avoiding the fill area.




    I tried using Q-tips, but it did seem like they would still leave some cotton fibers in the paint a lot of the time. I bought some of these after my last attempt at paint fill didn't go great, I'll let everyone know how they work when I get a chance to use them.



    https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1




    Don't use the Q tips on the actual engraving that you're filling. Use a business card to squeegee it away and then just kind of sop up the excess with a Q tip once you get it pulled away form the engraving.
  • mark_panekmark_panek Members Posts: 5 ✭✭
    edited Dec 6, 2018 #1344
    Just finished stripping the paint on my Never Compromise Gambler Royal. I used zip strip to remove the paint. It is a gel and took the paint right off without damaging the finish. I really like the naked look and

    I may keep it this way or just do the logos in blue and white.



    Stripper

    Post edited by Unknown User on
  • okie21okie21 Members Posts: 124 ✭✭
    edited Jan 10, 2019 11:39pm #1345
    Thanks to this thread, was able to do a custom job on my Vokeys. Thanks a bunch for the insight - found a hobby I didn't know existed. Helps those wintertime blues...
    Titleist [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]917 D2 9.5 deg (Diamana White 70 S)[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Ping G400 17 deg (Oban Kiyoshi White 04)[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Titleist[/font][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] 718 AP1s 4-GW (DG AMT White S300), 1 1/4" over with 1/4" intervals 8-9i and shorter[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Vokey SM7 52 deg Jet Black (DG Onyx S400) [/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Vokey SM '09 56 deg tour chrome (DG Wedge flex)[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Vokey SM7 60 deg Jet Black (KBS C Taper Lite S) all wedges same length as GW[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Scotty 2018 Newport 3, fresh from Custom Shop, std length and lie[/font]
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Vice Pro Plus [/font]
  • TheShaunTheShaun Members Posts: 1,108 ✭✭
    Is it totally necessary to strip the OEM paint or can one fill on top of it?
  • semarlorsemarlor Charlotte, NCMembers Posts: 612 ✭✭
    Does anyone know an enamel paint that is a really bright royal blue? I've tried a few different ones from testors but they all dry too dark. I want something to match blue on the most recent Club Cameron headcovers, for reference.
  • pd1775pd1775 Pockets Members Posts: 213 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:


    Calling all experts in this thread!!!



    I've done paint fill a number of times now on my own clubs, and a couple of others for friends. I get decent to good results depending, but here's the thing I have struggled most with - cleaning up the excess paint. I've tried a few different ways/methods and just don't get good results. So if anyone can offer advice on what you use (acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, etc. as well as what cloth/paper towels/rags) to wipe off the excess paint, how long you wait after applying and so forth.



    I'll use my most recent attempt on my new wedges as an example. I used Testors enamel paints, did not thin the paint at all and applied to my cleaned club heads using a toothpick. I let it dry overnight (almost a full 24 hours actually) and then lightly rubbed non-acetone nail polish remover over the excess to remove. This worked ok - it was slower but it didn't take away much of the paint in the area I wanted to say, so that was good. The problem was it seems to take away the shine/sheen of the paint that it has before wiping.



    I know a lot of others comment that they like acrylic paint better. I tried using Tamiya and Testors acrylics on my irons over the winter and just didn't have much luck at all when cleaning excess. It seemed that no matter what I tried I took away almost all of the paint. When wiping away with a dry rag/towel/t-shirt just shortly after applying, it took almost all the paint away and left some fuzz (guess I need to ensure a lint free rag). When I tried cleaning after it had dried using acetone or acetone nail polish removed it again seemed to take a lot of the paint away even with the lightest rubbing. In addition, with the acrylic the acetone really seemed to smear the paint when wiping.



    If anyone's got the "secret sauce" on cleaning up excess, please hit me up!
    I cleaned mine overfill off after it dried with Goo Be Gone on a soft rag and it worked great!
  • matchavezmatchavez Members Posts: 4,136 ✭✭
    TheShaun wrote:


    Is it totally necessary to strip the OEM paint or can one fill on top of it?




    It's not totally necessary to do anything. I would recommend without hesitation to fully strip areas that are going to be in contact with the ground, and do those fully. The non-contact areas you can probably get away with.
  • matchavezmatchavez Members Posts: 4,136 ✭✭
    mark_panek wrote:


    Just finished stripping the paint on my Never Compromise Gambler Royal. I used zip strip to remove the paint. It is a gel and took the paint right off without damaging the finish. I really like the naked look and

    I may keep it this way or just do the logos in blue and white.



    Stripper





    I'd have so done Black and Red...
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