How You Can Build a Single-length (or close to it) Set of Irons

[pinhigh27]

Since nobody chooses to do the same with their metal woods, why bother making only irons/wedges the same length?

By that logic, why bother to do anything?

 

That's the whole point...you can't make all the clubs in your bag the same length without creating a huge DISADVANTAGE, so why just do some! Shaft length and ball position still have to change...

 

There are inherent differences between the swings for irons and woods. The design of drivers and the required angle of attack is unique; the same is true for fairways. A steeper descending strike of down and through doesn't usually end well with woods. Imagine taking a divot with your driver. So the ball position and shaft are different out of necessity. The full benefit of these clubs wouldn't be there without the longer shafts and more of a sweeping motion. This is why some people excel at striking their irons while they may not be as proficient with a fairway wood or driver; the opposite could also be true with a strong driver of the ball not being as skilled with his irons. The iron swing is essentially the same for every iron, because it can be-it's advantageous for it to be so. This is why there is a benefit for some golfers to use single length irons. It eliminates as many variables as possible within the different irons in the bag.

 

Not really. there are good players who succeed with -5 AoA with driver. and -5 is pretty standard for a PW

[MBarger]

Since nobody chooses to do the same with their metal woods, why bother making only irons/wedges the same length?

By that logic, why bother to do anything?

 

That's the whole point...you can't make all the clubs in your bag the same length without creating a huge DISADVANTAGE, so why just do some! Shaft length and ball position still have to change...

 

There are inherent differences between the swings for irons and woods. The design of drivers and the required angle of attack is unique; the same is true for fairways. A steeper descending strike of down and through doesn't usually end well with woods. Imagine taking a divot with your driver. So the ball position and shaft are different out of necessity. The full benefit of these clubs wouldn't be there without the longer shafts and more of a sweeping motion. This is why some people excel at striking their irons while they may not be as proficient with a fairway wood or driver; the opposite could also be true with a strong driver of the ball not being as skilled with his irons. The iron swing is essentially the same for every iron, because it can be-it's advantageous for it to be so. This is why there is a benefit for some golfers to use single length irons. It eliminates as many variables as possible within the different irons in the bag.

 

Not really. there are good players who succeed with -5 AoA with driver. and -5 is pretty standard for a PW

 

#bringbackpersimmon #graveinjustices

[pearsonified]

As many of you know, I created the Clubmaker's Calculator to help me build custom-length irons (and also to optimize OEM sets). I've just released a major update to the calculator that you'll definitely want to check out!

[FirePro]

has anyone else recently played with the idea of custom length irons I still would like to give this a go but I am currently hitting my Z745's well right now and wouldn't want to make any changes at this time.

 

I was looking at component heads and the Maltby TE Forged looked like a good set to do this with as one they are forged and two they have the same offset throughout the set.

[Dan Drake]

I am going to build a set. Anyone know an inexpensive way to get 5 or 6 identical 6 iron shafts? I would think there would be a way with all the fitting carts in the world using 6 irons.

[jbhawx]

I am going to build a set. Anyone know an inexpensive way to get 5 or 6 identical 6 iron shafts? I would think there would be a way with all the fitting carts in the world using 6 irons.

 

If they are .355 taper tip just buy 5 or 6, 6 iron shafts. They will all be the same, then just butt trim them to the same desired length for all the shafts.

[Dan Drake]

I am going to build a set. Anyone know an inexpensive way to get 5 or 6 identical 6 iron shafts? I would think there would be a way with all the fitting carts in the world using 6 irons.

 

If they are .355 taper tip just buy 5 or 6, 6 iron shafts. They will all be the same, then just butt trim them to the same desired length for all the shafts.

 

That is the route I am going to go. I was originally going to do the long and med irons at 6 or 7 iron length and the short irons and wedges at GW length. I'm now thinking I should go whole hog and just do them all at one length. I've started the process and will be shafting up the 3i and PW for a little proof of concept testing today.

[pearsonified]

jbhawx, he wants to do precisely what you said, but cheaper. I've looked on eBay; it doesn't appear that stores separate heads and shafts on the inventory in their fitting carts, so I think the "direct purchase" method is likely the only realistic option here.

[Dan Drake]

jbhawx, he wants to do precisely what you said, but cheaper. I've looked on eBay; it doesn't appear that stores separate heads and shafts on the inventory in their fitting carts, so I think the "direct purchase" method is likely the only realistic option here.

 

Thank you, you are correct. I've decided to head over to the local golf shop and scrounge up some leftover 6i demo club S300 shafts to do a little proof of concept later today. The PW head I have weighs 275g and the 4i weighs 245g. If anyone wants to buy stock in a lead tape company, go ahead and do it now. Sales are going to go up in the next few days, lol!

[Dan Drake]

Should I use tip weights and lead tape, or lead tape only, to add weight to the lower lofted irons to bring the head weight up? Tape obviously allows me to put the weight where I want it, but getting 10g tip weights isn't going to move the COG anywhere, so why not, right?

[Dan Drake]

Any advice on S300 vs X100? I have a 112ish swing speed with my driver. I know Tom Wishon has said that shaft flex doesn't matter for most people because most people don't flex the shaft that much at that length shaft anyway. But, he did say that weight was important. Since I am just starting down this road, I was thinking that I would go with S300 just to get the ball rolling.

 

Also, I'm going with 275g as the head weight for starters. That is the weight of my PW with the weight removed. I should buy the shafts that correspond to that head weight, correct? ie, I'm going for ~36.75", so a "7" iron length, but my clubhead weighs about what an 8 iron would, so I would buy shafts meant for an 8i head and butt trim them to the correct length, right? If I buy "7" iron shafts, the heavier head will make them a bit more flexible.

 

Minutia or do I need to worry about that?

[accraw3]

Any advice on S300 vs X100? I have a 112ish swing speed with my driver. I know Tom Wishon has said that shaft flex doesn't matter for most people because most people don't flex the shaft that much at that length shaft anyway. But, he did say that weight was important. Since I am just starting down this road, I was thinking that I would go with S300 just to get the ball rolling.

 

Also, I'm going with 275g as the head weight for starters. That is the weight of my PW with the weight removed. I should buy the shafts that correspond to that head weight, correct? ie, I'm going for ~36.75", so a "7" iron length, but my clubhead weighs about what an 8 iron would, so I would buy shafts meant for an 8i head and butt trim them to the correct length, right? If I buy "7" iron shafts, the heavier head will make them a bit more flexible.

 

Minutia or do I need to worry about that?

 

I can't speak to the technical side of how the weight might effect the flex, but what I did was got a set of FST 115 shafts (raw length of 43") and cut all of them to the same flex (6 iron tip trim plus a 2" butt trim) at my desired length, which was 36.5". My head weight is consistent at 270, which after a couple of rounds I think feels too light. But I haven't noticed any issues with weird ball flight that I think is from the shaft.

 

So far it's been a good run at it. Not sure if that helps you out, I may not have answered the question. But I don't think it is something you should totally worry about if this is the first go at single-length. If you decide to stick with it for the long haul you'll likely build another set and go even more precise. At least I did. This is my second set.

[pearsonified]

Should I use tip weights and lead tape, or lead tape only, to add weight to the lower lofted irons to bring the head weight up?

 

I don't use tip weights because of the associated hook bias. Any weight added on the hosel side of the club head is going to encourage a draw/hook bias, while any weight added toward the toe is going to encourage a fade bias.

 

I think the left-over-left shot is the worst miss in golf, so I'll do just about anything to avoid it. Your mileage may vary, of course.

[pearsonified]

Any advice on S300 vs X100? I have a 112ish swing speed with my driver. I know Tom Wishon has said that shaft flex doesn't matter for most people because most people don't flex the shaft that much at that length shaft anyway. But, he did say that weight was important.

 

I don't "feel" the flex until the shaft length reaches 37.25" or longer. With a driver swing that is consistently around 122mph, I am a fit for X or TX shafts, but I can swing just about anything at 37" or shorter.

 

S300s definitely feel a bit softer than X100s, but some "play" in the shaft is often desirable, as it will cause the sensitive player to smooth out his transition. I doubt you'll notice a difference here except in the long irons.

 

As far as weighting is concerned, you should only seek to MOI-match your set. Whether that comes from a D3 or D1 basis is irrelevant; you only need to make sure your weights are progressive without requiring you to grind down your shorter irons (like PW or GW)—assuming you would prefer not to grind weight off some of the heads, of course.

 

Regarding shaft weight, I actually use lighter shafts (like DG SL X100) in my shorter irons and heavier shafts (DG X100) in my longer irons. This enables me to add a bit less weight (4g, on average) to the longer irons. My point is that you can be more flexible here than you probably think.

[Dan Drake]

Does anyone have any advice on wedge heads for a single length set? Or, the best way to approach building a set of wedges to go with a single link set of irons.

 

I have a set of Scratch wedges and a set of Callaway wedges that would both work for this job, but I'm not sure which one has the lighter head weight. Does anyone here know off the top of their head?

 

The lighter shaft idea in the wedges also seems like a decent idea to save some weight.

[pearsonified]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

[FirePro]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

would you gride before drilling ports?

[Noodler]

Should I use tip weights and lead tape, or lead tape only, to add weight to the lower lofted irons to bring the head weight up?

 

I don't use tip weights because of the associated hook bias. Any weight added on the hosel side of the club head is going to encourage a draw/hook bias, while any weight added toward the toe is going to encourage a fade bias.

 

I think the left-over-left shot is the worst miss in golf, so I'll do just about anything to avoid it. Your mileage may vary, of course.

Do some research on the issue of tips weights and you'll learn that it takes a significant amount of weight before you have any real-world impact on the bias of the club. We're talking more than 20g in the hosel or on the toe.

[pearsonified]

Do some research on the issue of tips weights and you'll learn that it takes a significant amount of weight before you have any real-world impact on the bias of the club. We're talking more than 20g in the hosel or on the toe.

 

IMO, this is totally false. Anyone with an ounce of feel can tell a tremendous difference at about 5g on the toe. 20g feels like a sledgehammer, comparatively.

 

The hosel is totally different, but because additional weight in this area introduces a hook bias, I would never even consider going this route.

[Dan Drake]

I'm using 10g tip weights on the 3, 4, and 5 irons and then balancing that out with and equal amount of lead tape on the toe. Then the remaining lead tape will be evenly distributed on the entire club head.

 

My head is currently swimming with wedge questions and issues. I found out that Matt Dobyns plays a single length set, 3-P, but then plays his G, S, & L wedge at normal length and all the same length. This may be an option. I've noticed that the PW "feels" much longer than the 4i "feels" shorter, lol.

[ChaosTheory]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

would you gride before drilling ports?

 

I did both on my 9, PW, AW. Because, they had some excess meat in the heel area that was just begging to be removed. But the drilling took more weight out, and easier too.

[Dan Drake]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

would you gride before drilling ports?

I did both on my 9, PW, AW. Because, they had some excess meat in the heel area that was just begging to be removed. But the drilling took more weight out, and easier too.

 

 

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

[FirePro]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

would you gride before drilling ports?

 

I did both on my 9, PW, AW. Because, they had some excess meat in the heel area that was just begging to be removed. But the drilling took more weight out, and easier too.

yes of course I did this as well grinded down the heal but for a different reason. I had a high bounce 58 Deg which I wanted to try for equal 4 deg gaping but I love a 60 so I delofted it to 60 deg and grinded down the heal in order not to skull F a flop shot.

[FirePro]

Some OEMs publish the head weights, but many others do not. More than likely, you'll want to either [1] use a grinder on your wedges (probably on the fattest part of the muscle) or [2] live with a heavier swing weight on your SW and LW versus the rest of your set.

would you gride before drilling ports?

I did both on my 9, PW, AW. Because, they had some excess meat in the heel area that was just begging to be removed. But the drilling took more weight out, and easier too.

 

 

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

im not sure you would want to do this without a drill press, unless you don't care about the final look of the back of the wedge. as for raw or chrome ether will work but if you want the holes not to rust on the chrome wedge you will have to apply paint fill and that is no guarantee

[ChaosTheory]

 

 

 

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

 

Clamp the head securely somehow. Maybe with wood blocks in a vise. Just a good steady hand, and be sure not to drill through! :)

Any regular drill bit will work fine.

If I had a choice, I would say raw wedge. I suppose the chrome will crack at the edge of the holes.

[FirePro]

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

 

Clamp the head securely somehow. Maybe with wood blocks in a vise. Just a good steady hand, and be sure not to drill through! :)

Any regular drill bit will work fine.

If I had a choice, I would say raw wedge. I suppose the chrome will crack at the edge of the holes.

also if you are porting multiple wholes you can put tape around the bit to where you want to stop so that they are ported the same depth. similar to when drilling a counter sink into wood for the head of a screw

[Dan Drake]

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

 

Clamp the head securely somehow. Maybe with wood blocks in a vise. Just a good steady hand, and be sure not to drill through! :)

Any regular drill bit will work fine.

If I had a choice, I would say raw wedge. I suppose the chrome will crack at the edge of the holes.

Any advice for someone without a drill press?

Drill bit recommendations?

Chrome wedge vs. Raw wedge?

 

Thank you!

 

Clamp the head securely somehow. Maybe with wood blocks in a vise. Just a good steady hand, and be sure not to drill through! :)

Any regular drill bit will work fine.

If I had a choice, I would say raw wedge. I suppose the chrome will crack at the edge of the holes.

also if you are porting multiple wholes you can put tape around the bit to where you want to stop so that they are ported the same depth. similar to when drilling a counter sink into wood for the head of a screw

 

Thank you both! I have a set of clamps that I believe will work. I also have a set of raw wedges and plenty of drill bits. I'll use the tape trick for depth, that's a good one. I imagine I will need more than 1 hole per wedge as I'm trying to get near 275g and I'm using Callaway wedge heads. I'd guess they are near 300g, so there's gonna be holes, lol. Lotsa holes.

[ChaosTheory]

Use some oil while drilling to keep the bits from dulling.

I don't know if you will be able to remove 25 grams by drilling, though. I removed about 3 grams for a hole that was 5/16 diameter by 3/16 or 1/4 deep. With a wedge you probably can go deeper than that.

[Howard_Jones]

@Dan Drake

 

If you have the right tools, you can take out about 10 grams from hosel drilling, but you will not be able to remove the last 15 grams by porting only, sole grinding would be easier to get weight down, but its not easy to make a sole that works

[Dan Drake]

@Dan Drake

 

If you have the right tools, you can take out about 10 grams from hosel drilling, but you will not be able to remove the last 15 grams by porting only, sole grinding would be easier to get weight down, but its not easy to make a sole that works

 

Thank you Howard! That confirms what I was thinking, basically that I'm better off playing my G-L wedges at a more "normal" length for now and sending the other set of wedge heads that I have off to someone qualified to do the work of reducing the weight, ie. hosel drilling, porting, and grinding. I want to learn how to do all these things, but since I don't have a teacher, or the right tools, I don't know that now is really the right time to do so.

 

Or, if you subscribe to another outlook on manhood, it's the perfect time to learn, lol!