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Miura 1957 Small Blade/Baby Blade enthusiasts thread! (Lots of enabling and physics lessons inside)


PopIt&DropIt

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I am not entirely convinced I’m playing the right shafts in my BB’s (project x lz)

Plenty more rounds to go to determine on my final set up!

More importantly enjoying the journey and enjoying the satisfaction they give me

 

I hear ya. I enjoy the Project X Rifle but the LZ is a whole different animal. Those two have completely different profiles. I launch the LZ super high, the Rifles are more penetrating flight. But in this build I am not likely to go with PX.

 

The key to the Rifles is do not get them too stiff. I get fitted and they tell me 6.0 in thr Rifles. But if I go 5.5 or 5.0, no losses in dispersion and they feel 10 times better. Powerful but not boardy. Indeed, I think many, many players who think they need ‘stiff’ and go for the Rifle 6.0 or even 6.5 would be much happier in the 5.0 in this particular shaft. It weighs the same as the 5.0, 115grams, and it is not whippy in the least. It is not your regular reg.

 

For the BB, I feel pretty good about the Nippon Modus 105/125 lineup, and possibly the 120, to match up with these heads. And if you have never tried the Super Peening shafts or the 950, 1050 and 1150 Nippons, they are all excellent depending on what weight you need. I tend to need at least midweight to keep my tempo so I often go in that 105-125 gram window. Under 100 grams, I might whiff. Could make the adjusrment but would take a while.

 

And is it just me or does a 125 gram Nippon shaft seem lighter and swing lighter than a DG shaft in the same weight class? Feels that way to me.

Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 10.5 w/Diamana TB 60S

PXG GEN6 5 wood w/Diamana S-plus 70 stiff

Yamaha RMX VD 7 wood w/Diamana S-plus 70 stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro hybrid (22) w/Aldila Tour Blue 85 stiff hybrid

Wilson Staff Model CB 5-G w/DG s300 shafts

Edel T grind 54 w/Nippon 125 wedge shaft

Fourteen RM-12 58 w/Dynamic Golds400

Axis1 Rose putter, 34 inches

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I play (original) Rifle 5.0s in my mp67s and Retro TBs and definitely it is a stouter and more boardy shaft than my 950 GH R-flex and 850 GH S-flex on my BB sets. I have to make a more aggressive swing to load and get the most out of my Rifles. With my Nippons it seems they load and kick more smoothly. Plus they are lighter and I can generate higher clubhead velocity with them with the 850s being the highest. And for sure I went through a tempo and getting used to adjustment period going to the 850s. Some of it was tempo but LOL the main "issue" was trusting that the things consistently gave me 1/2 club extra length. Took me half a season to just trust it.

 

dmeeksDC that's why I'm saying don't count out the 105s. Lighter shafts will (in theory) get you higher clubhead velocity. Plus I recently hit a 3i Miura 'Hagane' blade with the Modus3 105 and it was as good feeling as both my GHs. I would love the Modus3 line to go down to 75-85 grams but then I suppose it would compete against the GH line.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Love the original rifle 5 or 5.5 shaft. Even better in the flighted version. Played some of my best golf using that shaft.

 

I much preferred the original Rifles over the Project X devolution. Such a consistent shaft. Paired with my mp67s they were awesome. I think the only reason I don't like them with my Retro TBs is that the overall club is too heavy for me with the heavy heads. I lose a club length in distance with that combo. But the consistency is there. It sucks that the line is gone. True Temper had a winner when they bought out Royal Precision but they ruined it by obsoleting the original Rifle line.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think bladehunter also has a custom made BB 52*. Buy a PW and have it bent 5* strong and then grind the sole. It's a potential future project for me. The thought being once again you can never have too many BBs in the bag. And for all the same science reasons, short game shots are easier with a BB head just like regular shots are. I love chips and pitches with my BB PW over my regular wedges. A 52* BB gap wedge would be just as sweet, I bet. (Right, bladehunter...?)

 

I've got two Raw Hand Grind "Baby Blade 52° GW" ...

 

Blade got an extra PW, ground it, welded the sole, adjusted loft / lie, etc. I'll let him tell the story.

 

I requested a custom one off from Mr. Miura of a 52° Baby Blade GW. I got a, "No."

 

Just saw this on eBay:

 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Miura-Golf-Custom-Baby-Blade-Grind-Gap-Sand-Lob-Wedge-50-52-54-56-58-60-Raw/162533181254?hash=item25d7bb8746:m:mfXygBPbO1UtIR8AT4TA-rA

 

The description says Usher Golf does the grinding to make a standard raw Miura wedge smaller. Are these what you have?

 

I just may have found my next Christmas present from my wife!

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think bladehunter also has a custom made BB 52*. Buy a PW and have it bent 5* strong and then grind the sole. It's a potential future project for me. The thought being once again you can never have too many BBs in the bag. And for all the same science reasons, short game shots are easier with a BB head just like regular shots are. I love chips and pitches with my BB PW over my regular wedges. A 52* BB gap wedge would be just as sweet, I bet. (Right, bladehunter...?)

 

I've got two Raw Hand Grind "Baby Blade 52° GW" ...

 

Blade got an extra PW, ground it, welded the sole, adjusted loft / lie, etc. I'll let him tell the story.

 

I requested a custom one off from Mr. Miura of a 52° Baby Blade GW. I got a, "No."

 

Just saw this on eBay:

 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Miura-Golf-Custom-Baby-Blade-Grind-Gap-Sand-Lob-Wedge-50-52-54-56-58-60-Raw/162533181254?hash=item25d7bb8746:m:mfXygBPbO1UtIR8AT4TA-rA

 

The description says Usher Golf does the grinding to make a standard raw Miura wedge smaller. Are these what you have?

 

I just may have found my next Christmas present from my wife!

 

Yes, Sir!

 

I owe ya guys some pics still ....

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I think bladehunter also has a custom made BB 52*. Buy a PW and have it bent 5* strong and then grind the sole. It's a potential future project for me. The thought being once again you can never have too many BBs in the bag. And for all the same science reasons, short game shots are easier with a BB head just like regular shots are. I love chips and pitches with my BB PW over my regular wedges. A 52* BB gap wedge would be just as sweet, I bet. (Right, bladehunter...?)

 

I've got two Raw Hand Grind "Baby Blade 52° GW" ...

 

Blade got an extra PW, ground it, welded the sole, adjusted loft / lie, etc. I'll let him tell the story.

 

I requested a custom one off from Mr. Miura of a 52° Baby Blade GW. I got a, "No."

 

Just saw this on eBay:

 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Miura-Golf-Custom-Baby-Blade-Grind-Gap-Sand-Lob-Wedge-50-52-54-56-58-60-Raw/162533181254?hash=item25d7bb8746:m:mfXygBPbO1UtIR8AT4TA-rA

 

The description says Usher Golf does the grinding to make a standard raw Miura wedge smaller. Are these what you have?

 

I just may have found my next Christmas present from my wife!

 

Yes, Sir!

 

I owe ya guys some pics still ....

 

Thanks so much and side-by-side comparison pics with standard size wedges would be awesome. But more importantly...how do you like them and how do they play compared to standard size wedges? (LOL I already know the physics answer.)

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think bladehunter also has a custom made BB 52*. Buy a PW and have it bent 5* strong and then grind the sole. It's a potential future project for me. The thought being once again you can never have too many BBs in the bag. And for all the same science reasons, short game shots are easier with a BB head just like regular shots are. I love chips and pitches with my BB PW over my regular wedges. A 52* BB gap wedge would be just as sweet, I bet. (Right, bladehunter...?)

 

I've got two Raw Hand Grind "Baby Blade 52° GW" ...

 

Blade got an extra PW, ground it, welded the sole, adjusted loft / lie, etc. I'll let him tell the story.

 

I requested a custom one off from Mr. Miura of a 52° Baby Blade GW. I got a, "No."

 

Just saw this on eBay:

 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Miura-Golf-Custom-Baby-Blade-Grind-Gap-Sand-Lob-Wedge-50-52-54-56-58-60-Raw/162533181254?hash=item25d7bb8746:m:mfXygBPbO1UtIR8AT4TA-rA

 

The description says Usher Golf does the grinding to make a standard raw Miura wedge smaller. Are these what you have?

 

I just may have found my next Christmas present from my wife!

 

Yes, Sir!

 

I owe ya guys some pics still ....

 

Thanks so much and side-by-side comparison pics with standard size wedges would be awesome. But more importantly...how do you like them and how do they play compared to standard size wedges? (LOL I already know the physics answer.)

 

I don't have any non Miura wedges for side by side, just an FYi.

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Love the original rifle 5 or 5.5 shaft. Even better in the flighted version. Played some of my best golf using that shaft.

 

I much preferred the original Rifles over the Project X devolution. Such a consistent shaft. Paired with my mp67s they were awesome. I think the only reason I don't like them with my Retro TBs is that the overall club is too heavy for me with the heavy heads. I lose a club length in distance with that combo. But the consistency is there. It sucks that the line is gone. True Temper had a winner when they bought out Royal Precision but they ruined it by obsoleting the original Rifle line.

 

Had not factored in the head weight. Are the BB irons significantly heavier than others?

 

Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 10.5 w/Diamana TB 60S

PXG GEN6 5 wood w/Diamana S-plus 70 stiff

Yamaha RMX VD 7 wood w/Diamana S-plus 70 stiff

Callaway Mavrik Pro hybrid (22) w/Aldila Tour Blue 85 stiff hybrid

Wilson Staff Model CB 5-G w/DG s300 shafts

Edel T grind 54 w/Nippon 125 wedge shaft

Fourteen RM-12 58 w/Dynamic Golds400

Axis1 Rose putter, 34 inches

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Love the original rifle 5 or 5.5 shaft. Even better in the flighted version. Played some of my best golf using that shaft.

 

I much preferred the original Rifles over the Project X devolution. Such a consistent shaft. Paired with my mp67s they were awesome. I think the only reason I don't like them with my Retro TBs is that the overall club is too heavy for me with the heavy heads. I lose a club length in distance with that combo. But the consistency is there. It sucks that the line is gone. True Temper had a winner when they bought out Royal Precision but they ruined it by obsoleting the original Rifle line.

 

Had not factored in the head weight. Are the BB irons significantly heavier than others?

I don't have much reference but I'm pretty sure they are lighter than the Retro TBs which are my heaviest clubhead weight and SW. The BBs are relatively light in that regard and are also lighter than my mp67s. My Cal Hotties PW-3i heads weight range is 299-245 grams at D1.5 SW and 93-95 grams shaft weight and my Porn Stars PW-3i are 301-247 grams at D3 SW and 90-91 grams shaft weight. They are both my lightest sets with the Porn Stars being the lightest. All other things equal, the BB head weight is going to be lighter overall because the head total volume is smaller than most heads.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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D, I’ve weighed a lot of heads from a lot of companies and BB at 244-246g 3i, reaching 298-300g Pw (7g increments, moving to 8g between 8i and 9i, and then 10g between 9i and Pw) are heavier than almost anything else I’ve put on a scale. While the BB heads are smaller, the weight is made up with a slightly thicker face (nicely disguised top line) and a larger diameter/longer hosel. I can’t recall weights of other Miura heads off the top of my head (shame on me), but my memory is that they’re right in the same ballpark.

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D, I’ve weighed a lot of heads from a lot of companies and BB at 244-246g 3i, reaching 298-300g Pw (7g increments, moving to 8g between 8i and 9i, and then 10g between 9i and Pw) are heavier than almost anything else I’ve put on a scale. While the BB heads are smaller, the weight is made up with a slightly thicker face (nicely disguised top line) and a larger diameter/longer hosel. I can’t recall weights of other Miura heads off the top of my head (shame on me), but my memory is that they’re right in the same ballpark.

That makes sense about the bigger hosel and muscle thickness making up for the shorter length. If you've confirmed it on a scale I will trust that for sure.

 

I also thought I read somewhere they were 15% more dense than most forged clubs but I didn't put much stock in it.

 

Maybe shaft weight is all that is different between all my sets and come to think of it I *think* the original Rifle 5.0s were around 105g which may be why my Retro TBs are heavier.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think what you read is 15% shorter. I don’t imagine the metal or forging process is any different for BB vs other Miura.

 

I wish the new site wasn’t so bland. I agree it needed an update, but the old site had so much good information. Then again, even the products are headed in a different direction.

 

I've read in various 3rd party reviews that they were 15% smaller, shorter, or more dense which is why I didn't put stock in the more dense claim. Plus that is a huge change in density.

 

I was curious if you can remember or revalidate by how many grams they were heavier than other heads of same # when you measured them. I just have the head weights of my BBs on record but not my mp67s and Retro TBs.

 

And yeah the revised website and new products direction sucks.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think what you read is 15% shorter. I don't imagine the metal or forging process is any different for BB vs other Miura.

 

I wish the new site wasn't so bland. I agree it needed an update, but the old site had so much good information. Then again, even the products are headed in a different direction.

 

I've read in various 3rd party reviews that they were 15% smaller, shorter, or more dense which is why I didn't put stock in the more dense claim. Plus that is a huge change in density.

 

I was curious if you can remember or revalidate by how many grams they were heavier than other heads of same # when you measured them. I just have the head weights of my BBs on record but not my mp67s and Retro TBs.

 

And yeah the revised website and new products direction sucks.

 

The baby blades are roughly the same weight as any other iron that I've measured in the past. For example;

 

Club   6-iron  8-iron
1957   264.3    279.6
P730   264.0    279.2
Z965   264.1    279.1

 

Note; every set of 1957s that I've ever measured has been +/- 0.1g of the above weights. They are easily the most consistent irons that I've ever worked with. I don't have exact numbers for my TBs or 501s but weights on them were roughly the same as well.

Stealth2+ 9 Atmos RWB 6x / MyStealth+ 9 Atmos Blue 6x | Stealth2+ 15, Ventus Red 8x
TI P770 2 | P770 3, P7MC 4-5, P7MB 6-9 / Miura 1957 4-9, $-Taper 125
TI MG3 46, 50, 54, $-Taper 125 | TI MG3 58 / HT 58, KBS Tour 120 SS
Mann Mini / Cameron CT, MC Smooth | TP5x | My WITB Thread

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I think what you read is 15% shorter. I don't imagine the metal or forging process is any different for BB vs other Miura.

 

I wish the new site wasn't so bland. I agree it needed an update, but the old site had so much good information. Then again, even the products are headed in a different direction.

 

I've read in various 3rd party reviews that they were 15% smaller, shorter, or more dense which is why I didn't put stock in the more dense claim. Plus that is a huge change in density.

 

I was curious if you can remember or revalidate by how many grams they were heavier than other heads of same # when you measured them. I just have the head weights of my BBs on record but not my mp67s and Retro TBs.

 

And yeah the revised website and new products direction sucks.

 

The baby blades are roughly the same weight as any other iron that I've measured in the past. For example;

 

Club   6-iron  8-iron
1957   264.3    279.6
P730   264.0    279.2
Z965   264.1    279.1

 

Note; every set of 1957s that I've ever measured has been +/- 0.1g of the above weights. They are easily the most consistent irons that I've ever worked with. I don't have exact numbers for my TBs or 501s but weights on them were roughly the same as well.

 

According to my fitter's scale I have the following BB head weights:

 

Cal Hottie 6i = 266g

Cal Hottie 8i = 281g

 

Porn Star 6i = 268g

Porn Star 8i = 284g

 

I always attributed the Porn Stars being slightly heavier due to the black boron coating but LOL maybe his scale needs calibration.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Most BB I’ve weighed are right in line with your Retro numbers.

 

A lot of the difference in BB vs most from other manufacturers is accounted in the 8g jump between 8i and 9i and the 10g jump from 9i to Pw. Still, it’s not unusual to find 3i in the 230s grams range, 7i in the 260s, or Pw in the 280s/low 290s.

 

Of course, with a few JDM exceptions, Miura stands out among most manufacturers with its incredible consistency.

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Welp the original purpose of this thread was a giant waste of time :) I'm committed to playing bbs in competition just like everyone said I should. Hit 16 greens in a big money game today and the two I missed were long but online and solid in tough par 3s. Just cant ask for more from a set of irons and the distance control is truly uncanny.

 

Now I'm stuck with this barely touched set of black hogans that I think are a phenomenal iron but I'm just never going to play them. At the same time they are easily the most beautiful iron I've ever seen in person and I'm hating the idea of selling them. Would be a lot easier if I simply listened to you guys and committed to the bb from the start. It was just a big jump for me at the time. Oh well, first world problems if I've ever seen them!

 

In other news I'm on the hunt for BB shafts unfortunately. Started with KBS tour but they were just a little high and spinny for me. Went to KBS Tour V like I have and love in the hogans and it was exactly what I needed. Started getting the more penetrating trajectory with the BBs and its been a love affair since. The issue is I've had them for 3 weeks and I'm already noticing bending at the tips. Went and looked at my chrome hogans and found quite a few bent tips on them. Lofts thrown all over as a result. I understand tips bending eventually is just part of it for me but if I'm bending them this early on I need to look at shafts that don't have a long history of bent tips like KBS does. I'm thinking project x but have some testing to do. DG AMT is an option too. I love the modus line but they are a little too high launch for me.

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Welp the original purpose of this thread was a giant waste of time :) I'm committed to playing bbs in competition just like everyone said I should. Hit 16 greens in a big money game today and the two I missed were long but online and solid in tough par 3s. Just cant ask for more from a set of irons and the distance control is truly uncanny.

 

Now I'm stuck with this barely touched set of black hogans that I think are a phenomenal iron but I'm just never going to play them. At the same time they are easily the most beautiful iron I've ever seen in person and I'm hating the idea of selling them. Would be a lot easier if I simply listened to you guys and committed to the bb from the start. It was just a big jump for me at the time. Oh well, first world problems if I've ever seen them!

 

In other news I'm on the hunt for BB shafts unfortunately. Started with KBS tour but they were just a little high and spinny for me. Went to KBS Tour V like I have and love in the hogans and it was exactly what I needed. Started getting the more penetrating trajectory with the BBs and its been a love affair since. The issue is I've had them for 3 weeks and I'm already noticing bending at the tips. Went and looked at my chrome hogans and found quite a few bent tips on them. Lofts thrown all over as a result. I understand tips bending eventually is just part of it for me but if I'm bending them this early on I need to look at shafts that don't have a long history of bent tips like KBS does. I'm thinking project x but have some testing to do. DG AMT is an option too. I love the modus line but they are a little too high launch for me.

 

Great update PI&DI I'm so glad to hear your BB journey is working out for you. LOL with science on your side it is not surprising nor uncanny. I hate to beat a dead horse but LOL there is nothing unusual about the distance control being so good with them. That thick muscle behind the ball relative to the short length make the entire BB muscled part of the face a VERY consistent and stable surface onto which the ball consistently compresses. And from this comes consistent ball spin and consistent launch angle which ultimately promotes consistent distance control. By the science, the ball behaves consistently because the part of the club face where ball contact occurs is so consistent.

 

Compare all this to the CB face which flexes and moreover flexes inconsistently across the contact part of the face like a trampoline surface. Every contact point along the face produces a different spin and launch angle. Ultimately this creates inconsistent distance and directional control. And the more the MOI increases, the worse it gets because the thinner the face wall gets. This is a universal issue across all strikes too. "Forgiveness" is a carney sham(e)!!!

 

Over time with my BBs I have become more of a point and shoot stock shot golfer. I play the same (LOL) "boring" baby fade all the time now. I used to try to work shots a little more but what I have found with my BBs is to play for the same stock baby fade all the time. And I attack the pin with more confidence as well. It's ironic to me that a club with so much ability to work the ball is best used by hitting the same stock shot over and over. They have truly simplified how I manage the course and my game because they are so reliable. Truly they have ruined all other irons for me.

 

That sucks about your KBS shafts. I never cared for KBS compared to TT and Nippon myself. Have you considered TT Tour Issue X100s for low launch shafts? They should be lower launching than the DG AMT line.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Man I wish it was as easy as just going to x100s. I have pretty unique needs from a shaft which has made it a bit of a headache. I play my clubs very long of standard (1.5"-1.75") so the heavyweight shafts just get too heavy for the way I swing the club (Freddy/DL3/Ernie style, big long swing with deliberate transition), especially in the longer irons. 120g is about the max I can go before the weight starts messing with my transition. On top of that due to said deliberate transition a shaft that is too stiff will generally make me feel I have to work harder to load that shaft and get a little jumpy at the point in the swing where it is imperative to take my time. And of course I'm a relatively high SS, launch, and spin player and need some help keeping the trajectory down throwing a serious wrench in the whole thing.

 

The Tour V has really been the perfect blend to meet my needs and I was really excited to not worry about shafts ever again. I find the AMT line interesting because I dont mind the weight in the short irons and that is where I need the trajectory help the most. The good news is I have an extra three iron I do most of my practice with for this exact reason and that is the one showing signs of bending after a couple of weeks. So I have some time to do some true testing and get it figured out as I expect the tour v's to hold up for the immediate future and I'm loving the way I'm hitting them.

 

So I need a light weight, low launch low spin shaft in a stiff flex that has a strong tip. Lol that's a lot to ask. Any other recommendations from the hive? I have PX, AMT, and DG 120 on my radar currently.

 

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Man I wish it was as easy as just going to x100s. I have pretty unique needs from a shaft which has made it a bit of a headache. I play my clubs very long of standard (1.5"-1.75") so the heavyweight shafts just get too heavy for the way I swing the club (Freddy/DL3/Ernie style, big long swing with deliberate transition), especially in the longer irons. 120g is about the max I can go before the weight starts messing with my transition. On top of that due to said deliberate transition a shaft that is too stiff will generally make me feel I have to work harder to load that shaft and get a little jumpy at the point in the swing where it is imperative to take my time. And of course I'm a relatively high SS, launch, and spin player and need some help keeping the trajectory down throwing a serious wrench in the whole thing.

 

The Tour V has really been the perfect blend to meet my needs and I was really excited to not worry about shafts ever again. I find the AMT line interesting because I dont mind the weight in the short irons and that is where I need the trajectory help the most. The good news is I have an extra three iron I do most of my practice with for this exact reason and that is the one showing signs of bending after a couple of weeks. So I have some time to do some true testing and get it figured out as I expect the tour v's to hold up for the immediate future and I'm loving the way I'm hitting them.

 

So I need a light weight, low launch low spin shaft in a stiff flex that has a strong tip. Lol that's a lot to ask. Any other recommendations from the hive? I have PX, AMT, and DG 120 on my radar currently.

 

Truly you suffer from a huge 1st world problem. You are just too tall.

 

I think at the end of the day you will have to make a concession and quite honestly I think the degrees of shafts dictating launch height is overstated. The club loft, muscle thickness, club length and your SS/AoA are what will define the spin and launch angle more so than the shaft flex and type. So I wouldn't obsess and count out shafts that are "high launch" unless you have hands on and side by side comparison data with a known "low launch" shaft that it is an "issue" (or not).

 

Based on what you said that added length is going to flex and bend all shafts more than their shorter version. Also you generate more than average SS which will also cause the shaft to flex more so than normal. So what this all means is absolutely you need a lighter shaft and also one that is stiffer than normal. And unfortunately the need for lighter weight is met with only medium to high launch characteristics. If you *must* have low launch and low spin you will have to make a weight concession. Unfortunately you cannot have it both ways (lightweight and low launch).

 

So my advice is to not obsess so much about the stated launch height by shaft. Try out the Modus3 105 (or any lighter weight than 120g TT shaft) in stiff or x flex at the length you need. Compare these to the heavier "low launch" shafts you are considering and really see for yourself the relative launch height "differences" they have compared to each other. It *may* not be as big of an issue as you are making it out to be.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Haha Im not really that tall (6'2") but I do feel conventionally fit clubs (because of conventionally taught set up posture, aka "athletic ready posture") make the golf swing unneccesarily difficult from a physics perspectice in a few key areas. It's a conversation for another thread and I could make your BB rants look short with my physics of the golf swing rants, so I'll refrain for now :)

 

I generally agree it's more head than shaft but the fact is no one knows exactly how much each plays its part and there are lots of variables at play from player to player to the point there is no hard and fast rule. So real life experience makes the final call for me here. I launched the bb 6 iron at 18 degrees with kbs tour and modus 120 with spin approaching 7000 at a swing speed of 98 mph. Tour V knocked that down to just under 16 with 6050 rpms. Tour avg being 14 degrees with a 6 iron and I'm really happy at 16 degrees and love the flight through the bag currently so I feel like these numbers are my sweet spot or very close to it.

 

I agree it looks like a concession needs to be made somewhere but the unfortunate truth is the easiest and most sensible concession is the bbs themselves. Outside of iblades I launch bbs higher than anything on the market including plenty of players cavitys. I can put just about any shaft in a Hogan Ft Worth or Srixon 965 (both known for lower launch) and get a solid flight I'm happy with. Which obviously comes back to your original point about the head being king. But if I operate on that I have to give up bbs and I'm not ready to give up on them. I was considering giving up gaming them before putting the tour v in them but now that I see its possible at 110 gram shaft I should be able to find something in the 120 gram range to get the job done. I just have to do some testing and find it. I'm so happy with the results I get out of my current set up that it is worth going through the hassle of figuring it out as opposed to just going back to my Hogans.

 

I'll report back when after I get some testing done. Fingers crossed :) Thanks for the insight!

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You could also strengthen the loft on the BBs...

 

...if you are launching them higher by a couple of degrees with a certain shaft, then strengthening the loft a couple of degrees is another option.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Also the other concession is to accept the higher launch...

 

...do you have data that says you lose distance or dispersion with the higher launch? If not, why do you care that you don't meet the "ideal" tour "data"?

 

Edit: In other words, are you truly more accurate with lower launching Hogans vs high launching BBs? If you truly care and trust in your real world testing, forget the launch angle data and just look at the final distance and dispersion. (Or better yet - the final score or proximity to the hole.)

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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And LMAO FWIW I can talk the physics of the swing for days...

 

...it's much more interesting than club and ball design physics!

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Man tough crowd lol. I've mentioned it a couple times ITT but strengthening them is the first thing I did.

 

I'm not chasing ideal tour numbers, especially because I dont think there is anything ideal about them. They are just an average. I'm just using them as a reference so people can understand how my numbers relate. As I'm trying to make it to the tour they are at least somewhat relevant and I use them to make sure I'm in what I would call an acceptable range. As I was thrilled with two degrees higher than average I'm obviously not chasing those numbers exactly. As you know two degrees of launch is a huge difference!

 

Yes when I'm launching it at 18+ degrees and spinning it at 7000 and above I carry the 6 iron 165-175. My stock 8 iron is my 170-172 club. With that said I'm not overly concerned with distance with irons as I rarely hit them full bore. My ability to control distance is directly tied to my ability to control trajectory and spin. Especially in the wind. Those numbers are difficult to play in calm conditions but are totally useless in the wind. I lose all control in an area that is a strong suit. I love playing in the wind because I'm better than my peers at controlling trajectory and curve. The numbers I was getting before are balloons and the wind eats them alive. No one could play them at the level I want to play. I'm a high ball hitter and I always will be. It's a strength of my game and I wouldn't change it but it does have some downsides that need to be managed and the length and weight of the shafts I need make it more challenging than it may be for some others. First world problems for sure :)

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And LMAO FWIW I can talk the physics of the swing for days...

 

...it's much more interesting than club and ball design physics!

 

Me too :) I'm just not sure I want to invite the vitriol that comes with publically telling people they have been doing it wrong their whole lives (not you, but they will come out of the woodwork, trust me). Especially when peoples professions are tied to what I am able to completely debunk with physics based proof. Mine once was and it was a difficult pill to swallow for me and I consider myself more level headed and open to change than most. Also we are talking hours and hours or typing that I just dont have at the moment. And finally, it's a subject that computes way more effectively with in person demonstrations. I refrain from getting the conversation started just about every day I'm on this forum, lol!

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FWIW I can talk the physics of the swing for days...

 

You break it down very well though. Like writing a flight manual for people who have no flying experience.

 

LOL I try to know my audience and thanks for putting up with all of it.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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