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Mizuno Fitting Experts - Can you explain?


Dixie Flatline

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I hit the MP 20 on the shaft fitting shaft thing the other night and got the following recommendations:

 

1. C-Taper Lite X

2. Project X LZ 5.5

3. Project X 5.5

 

I’ve never been a big Project X iron guy, I may be mistaken, but I thought 5.5 is an R. How did I get an X and an R recommendation?

 

Also, in hitting different stuff, I thought DG 120 S had the best numbers in terms of spin 6900-7100, but the PGA store employee said the mat takes off about 750 rpm and it would probably be too much on the course.

 

I currently play modus 130 S hardstepped, but I’m open to a better fitting shaft. I’m not a bomber; 7 iron ball speed usually around 114-115. I hit it about 160-165 on the course.

 

Any thoughts?

 

My numbers were 85.3 4.33-3-5-4.33 for whatever that’s worth.

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I was fit for the mp20 yesterday. Mizuno thing had $taper, modus, and LZ

 

The fourth option the program spit out ended up being what I went with. KBS Tour 130X. And Now I wait!!!

 

Not sure what to recommend to you though. I would go back and hit different combos until I was sure. I left knowing that I ordered exactly what I wanted

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I know it’s easy to get caught up on brands and flexes and weights (and it’s easy for me to say because I was fit into a shaft I like) but at the end of the day you have to hit them so go for what feels right

Callaway Rogue ST 💎💎💎 LS 9* [Tensei Red 1k 6TX]

Tour Edge CB Pro F2 14.5* [Graphite Design AD-DI 7TX]

Tour Edge CB Pro F2 17.5* [Graphite Design AD-DI 8TX]

GEOM Golf Moe [Raw] [21, 29, 37, 45] [LA Golf 125X]

National Custom [Raw] [50, 54, 58] [LA Golf 125X]

Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport [Black Star Finish]

Iomic Grips

@TheGolfBench builds my clubs

#PlayOrPerish #LeadTapeChronicles #SlowPlayersWillBeAskedToLeave

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DG 120 stiff is one of your other options and is 118g, so if you liked the feel and performance, seems like a good choice. You could always hard step it to bring spin down a touch.

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Titleist TS3 4 wood, Diamana Kal’li 70s

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> @"Dixie Flatline" said:

> I hit the MP 20 on the shaft fitting shaft thing the other night and got the following recommendations:

>

> 1. C-Taper Lite X

> 2. Project X LZ 5.5

> 3. Project X 5.5

>

> I’ve never been a big Project X iron guy, I may be mistaken, but I thought 5.5 is an R. How did I get an X and an R recommendation?

>

> Also, in hitting different stuff, I thought DG 120 S had the best numbers in terms of spin 6900-7100, but the PGA store employee said the mat takes off about 750 rpm and it would probably be too much on the course.

>

> I currently play modus 130 S hardstepped, but I’m open to a better fitting shaft. I’m not a bomber; 7 iron ball speed usually around 114-115. I hit it about 160-165 on the course.

>

> Any thoughts?

>

> My numbers were 85.3 4.33-3-5-4.33 for whatever that’s worth.

 

 

The shafts you play is overkill, and way stiffer than you need, but if you think PX 5.5 is comparable to "R" flex, it might explain it, but there is NO standards for Flex labels, they are ONLY a address in THAT models weight series, they cant and shall never be used for side by side compare between 2 different shaft models. The Pro Modus 130S strait in, is stronger than DG X100, and yours is even hard stepped? How did you end up with that?

 

I made a small collection of the models you mention and added a few for the sake of reference (i dont have DG 120), and i hope you can see that flex labels CANT be used like you try to, they mean absolutely NOTHING outside its own model series, so the Standard PX 5.5 is stronger than PX LZ 6.5 as one example....Strange PX 5.0 was left out, its closer to C-Taper Lite X and PX LZ 5.5 than PX 5.5 is.

 

the shafts is sorted by FLEX, strong to weak, but we have to start with shaft WEIGHT, then look at flex option, and go up or down within the same model, and ignore what the label letter is, since thats not valid for anything at all outside its own model series.

 

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Get the weight right first. 115g seems good for you and to be honest is probably good for most good amateurs. Second make sure the balance point is where you want it, and then pick what feels best as the third factor (ie bend profile and flex). You are talking about such small differences in what the shaft is really providing after you get the weight, other than how it influences your timing and release.

And remember it takes something like 500 swings to ingrain a swing change, so you should look at equipment changes similarly. The idea that 10 balls on an indoor LM is somehow going to tell you the story is like thinking that reading the first chapter of a book will tell you the end.

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> @Oknows said:

> Looks like it targeted shafts in the 115g range. Weight is the most important fitting component.

 

This right here. Tempo and release are definitely big with the new Optimizer which seem to make weight very important (not that it wouldn't be anyway). And yes, the Modus 130 S-HS is way overkill for you.

 

That being said, the previous version put me in the Modus 120 S (114g) which I have been real happy with. The new Optimizer had me in the 120-125g range and also had recommended a couple in X flex. In any case, the Modus 120 was still in the top 10 and I saw no reason to change and went with it in the new HMB's. It is great for recommending a range, but the cart makes it easy to also try out many on the list and go from there.

51228683_mizunoshadow.jpg.331dc94966b1c93058cfa910903c6db8.jpg

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Adam C - I concur with your statement.

 

Furthermore for the original poster, in my experience golf shop free custom fitting is a marketing inveigling term and does not translate to the experience the pros receive (which is more often a full 3 day fitting endurance processes, and far removed from a 6-iron whack guess work at a golf shop hitting 100 or so balls, even with trackman I doubt the golf shop sales person really understand the figures). Furthermore, you cannot determine your optimal shaft based on a 6-iron alone (you need to try PW/4I to truly gauge the set), as many shafts such stepless shafts become stiffer in the long irons (this is certainly true with the Project X, not sure about the Project X LZ).

 

My advice is find the most suitable head and shaft combination, and over different days try shafts on a launch monitor with real balls down a range (and don't base your selection on the results generated by an indoor launch monitor). Then when you find the perfect combination, try the same combination on another day to confirm the selection.

 

If you can afford it find a specialist fitter and pay him extra for his expertise.

 

Outside the manufacture fitting centres , the majority of golf stores are simply S300 selectors for 99.99% of people (even saw a guy achieve 103mph CHS with a 6-iron with 7700 spin and they recommended an S300 as it was the only shaft they stock, and they couldn't be bothered creating a custom order). The manufactures cannot control retailers, even Mizuno, but to be fair the Mizuno owned fitting centres are excellent (they have most shafts in every flex, their fitters are not salesmen their goal is a happy performance optimised golfer, they are void of commission $$)

 

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Like others said, weight is a big factor, and stiffness ratings can’t really be compared across brands. I think the answer to your question is that the KBS C-Taper is a light shaft, and your combination of specs (speed but also considering release, down force, etc) would likely overpower it. The same shaft in a heavier weight would be an ‘S’ recommendation. And PX 5.5 is more like an ‘R+’ and I”m guessing it’s overall stability matches your specs. That said, I think you’re only ~1 mph away from the tool spitting out a PX 6.0.

 

My Mizuno specs are very similar to yours (basically the same on my day with latest release). Most of my recommendations are in the ‘S’ range but the light shafts (like Nippon 105) are suggested as ‘X’. I had a Nippon 105 S and it felt like a noodle to me, shots were high and hooked and dispersion was bad, because it was too soft. I currently have demo clubs with PX 5.5, PX 6.0, KBS Tour S, and KBS Tour X. PX 5.5 is not at all like that - for me it’s stable with good distance, piercing flight, good spin, etc. PX 6.0 gives me tighter dispersion, but lower flight with less spin and harder feel. KBS Tour S plays overall stiffness similar to PX 5.5, but definitely much softer in the tip and firmer at the hands for a very different ball flight.

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> @"Dixie Flatline" said:

>

> I’ve never been a big Project X iron guy, I may be mistaken, but I thought 5.5 is an R. How did I get an X and an R recommendation?

>

> Any thoughts?

>

> My numbers were 85.3 4.33-3-5-4.33 for whatever that’s worth.

 

You have some great answers thus far so just to add. The main factor for the recommendations is your Tempo, the latest version of the software prioritises shaft weight, based on the tempo factor. Then bend profile, based on release (a little late in your case), finally shaft strength (selected from the EI not the flex label) based on swing speed (modified slightly by the tempo factor). So your recommendations are 115 gram with relatively equal overall strength and tip stiffness.

 

There are so many shaft options available that the 0.33 in tempo, swing speed and release, make a significant difference to the recommendations (C Taper lite S, LZ 5.5 and Modus 105 X)

 

Project X 5.0 is no longer in the custom shaft options in the PFS software.

 

Don’t forget this is only your starting point, testing is required to identify a winner.

 

 

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