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Wedge grinding only reduces bounce?


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I have read a bit into DIY projects for modifying the grind on a wedge. Popular modifications include: trail edge relief, heal relief, soft grind lines, pre-worn/killed leading edge etc. In almost all of these scenarios, removing metal from the sole of the wedge also reduces the effective bounce. My question is whether it is possible to grind a wedge in a way that increases the effective bounce? 

 

I really enjoy the grind on my MP irons, Vokey K grind, and anything else that has some camber to it. I wanted to try a little leading and trail edge relief on a Vokey F grind to increase the camber. My concern was reducing the bounce too much. I can dig some trenches with the 50.08 F without hitting the shot fat. I don't seem to have this tendency with any of my other clubs. Easy solution might be getting the 50.12 F next time, but I don't hit the 50.08 poorly. Just take a big divot. 

Edited by cw1209

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If I’m interpreting your desires correctly, basically your only option would be to not so much ‘add relief’, but raise the leading edge by bringing it back some...essentially adding a bit of offset. F

After “meh” attempts at grinding when I didn’t want to loose bounce, I realize that all the local golf shops have plenty of decently fresh wedges in all shapes and sizes. Now I just get one with extra

Totally agree with Brett in the first video. Sound is key to knowing you hit the shot right and used the bounce effectively. Less shaft lean at address with a wedge is a huge help for me to avoid digg

If I’m interpreting your desires correctly, basically your only option would be to not so much ‘add relief’, but raise the leading edge by bringing it back some...essentially adding a bit of offset. Front relief would really just be removing metal From beneath the leading edge which reduces the early bounce which doesn’t sound like it’s in your best interest. Perhaps grinding the leading edge back to raise it higher and blunting the edge would be what you are looking for?

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Good question for Joe Kwok. @joey3108

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1 hour ago, Golfrnut said:

If I’m interpreting your desires correctly, basically your only option would be to not so much ‘add relief’, but raise the leading edge by bringing it back some...essentially adding a bit of offset. Front relief would really just be removing metal From beneath the leading edge which reduces the early bounce which doesn’t sound like it’s in your best interest. Perhaps grinding the leading edge back to raise it higher and blunting the edge would be what you are looking for?

 

That makes sense. Almost the opposite of leading edge relief, which makes the leading edge sharper/thinner. By bringing the leading edge back you would raise the leading edge and increase the offset. Just needed to think it through a bit. Appreciate the response. 

Cobra F9 9* - Ventus Black 7X / Cobra SZ Big Tour 13.5* - Tour AD TP 8X / Callaway Apex Hybrid 20* - Tour AD IZ 95X

Mizuno MP20 MMC 4,5 / MP20 6-P - Project X 6.5 / Vokey SM8 50.08F, 56.12D, 60.08M - Project X 6.0

TM TP Juno or Spider Tour Black / Bridgestone BX

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2 hours ago, cw1209 said:

I have read a bit into DIY projects for modifying the grind on a wedge. Popular modifications include: trail edge relief, heal relief, soft grind lines, pre-worn/killed leading edge etc. In almost all of these scenarios, removing metal from the sole of the wedge also reduces the effective bounce. My question is whether it is possible to grind a wedge in a way that increases the effective bounce? 

 

I really enjoy the grind on my MP irons, Vokey K grind, and anything else that has some camber to it. I wanted to try a little leading and trail edge relief on a Vokey F grind to increase the camber. My concern was reducing the bounce too much. I can dig some trenches with the 50.08 F without hitting the shot fat. I don't seem to have this tendency with any of my other clubs. Easy solution might be getting the 50.12 F next time, but I don't hit the 50.08 poorly. Just take a big divot. 

After “meh” attempts at grinding when I didn’t want to loose bounce, I realize that all the local golf shops have plenty of decently fresh wedges in all shapes and sizes. Now I just get one with extra bounce and grind that down, cost me 40 bucks for the wedge, and saves me a ton of time and failed attempts. Well worth it IMO. 

And I have to recommend Brett rumFord chipping videos... I used to take divots with low bounce wedges regularly (kind of any Chipshot, with any bounce, especially when under pressure). He is a short game master, and his tips are simple. With his “knee dip then hold the dip and turn” method, I use less than 10 degrees bounce and no divots anymore
 

 

 

 

good luck!

Edited by extrastiff
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21 minutes ago, cw1209 said:

 

That makes sense. Almost the opposite of leading edge relief, which makes the leading edge sharper/thinner. By bringing the leading edge back you would raise the leading edge and increase the offset. Just needed to think it through a bit. Appreciate the response. 


yes, raising the leading edge adds effective bounce and moves is forward closer to the leading edge. Being a F grind though, you kind of got what you got as it’s already a flat sole with low bounce. 

TM M3 440 w/ Speeder Evo II 6.1 TS
TM M5 14* Rocket w/ Tour AD YS7+  
Taylormade P790 2 UDI w/ DG 105R or M3 19* 5W w/ BB S+ 70
4-PW Nike VR Pro MBs w/ DG AMT White R300
Kyoei 52/58 Personal Grinds w/ DG S400s
Odyssey MXM 1W

Quietly testing:

Titleist TS3 19* hybrid w/ ProjectX Evenflow Blue 6.0

Titleist TS3 23* hybrid w/ Aldila RIP 85S

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3 hours ago, extrastiff said:

After “meh” attempts at grinding when I didn’t want to loose bounce, I realize that all the local golf shops have plenty of decently fresh wedges in all shapes and sizes. Now I just get one with extra bounce and grind that down, cost me 40 bucks for the wedge, and saves me a ton of time and failed attempts. Well worth it IMO. 

And I have to recommend Brett rumFord chipping videos... I used to take divots with low bounce wedges regularly (kind of any Chipshot, with any bounce, especially when under pressure). He is a short game master, and his tips are simple. With his “knee dip then hold the dip and turn” method, I use less than 10 degrees bounce and no divots anymore
 

 

Totally agree with Brett in the first video. Sound is key to knowing you hit the shot right and used the bounce effectively. Less shaft lean at address with a wedge is a huge help for me to avoid digging/delofting. I hesitate to go to higher bounce wedges because I'm afraid they will encourage a steeper swing. I still want to have the right gear that helps cover my bad habits, like getting too steep with a wedge. Will go with a higher bounce wedge next time since it seems much easier to remove bounce. 

Edited by cw1209
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Cobra F9 9* - Ventus Black 7X / Cobra SZ Big Tour 13.5* - Tour AD TP 8X / Callaway Apex Hybrid 20* - Tour AD IZ 95X

Mizuno MP20 MMC 4,5 / MP20 6-P - Project X 6.5 / Vokey SM8 50.08F, 56.12D, 60.08M - Project X 6.0

TM TP Juno or Spider Tour Black / Bridgestone BX

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7 hours ago, cw1209 said:

 

Totally agree with Brett in the first video. Sound is key to knowing you hit the shot right and used the bounce effectively. Less shaft lean at address with a wedge is a huge help for me to avoid digging/delofting. I hesitate to go to higher bounce wedges because I'm afraid they will encourage a steeper swing. I still want to have the right gear that helps cover my bad habits, like getting too steep with a wedge. Will go with a higher bounce wedge next time since it seems much easier to remove bounce. 

I feel u. I promise tho, standard knee dip/turn, then hold the dip and rotate everything through the ball (I kinda cast my hands too to make sure shaft lean returns as close to neutral as possible). With this move, it’s so hard to come in steep (with a good follow through). Open face obviously, and with those combined you will stop caring about your leading edge pretty much completely. 
 

im also not really following why lower bounce would help “cover” bad habits. Maybe I’m misinterpreting

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