.360 diameter taper tip into .370 hosel

[BTP]

Looking to DIY a taper tip driving iron shaft into a .370 hosel diameter...

There is hardly any play once inserted and when putting a shim on I can hardly press the shaft all the way in the hosel.

Any words of advice? Do I install without the shim?

[jvincent]

Have you actually measured the shaft with calipers?

 

If you're using at standard brass shim you'll likely need to cut the arms of the shim so that only the tapered part is shimmed.

[BTP]

Yes caliper reading .360. I ended up having to cut the arms of the shim and just gave a couple extra forced hits to drive it in. No problems after that thanks for your input

[jvincent]

Glad to be of help. It should be in there for good now.

[Stuart_G]

9 hours ago, BTP said:

Yes caliper reading .360. I ended up having to cut the arms of the shim and just gave a couple extra forced hits to drive it in. No problems after that thanks for your input

 

Might not have done enough tip prep on the shaft.  Tapered tip shafts should generally go down to .355."  Was it steel or graphite?  

 

You should NEVER have to use force to get a shaft properly seated in the hosel.   A fit that's too tight can "starve" the glue joint (squeeze too much glue out) and end up with a very weak bond.

[BTP]

50 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Might not have done enough tip prep on the shaft.  Tapered tip shafts should generally go down to .355."  Was it steel or graphite?  

 

You should NEVER have to use force to get a shaft properly seated in the hosel.   A fit that's too tight can "starve" the glue joint (squeeze too much glue out) and end up with a very weak bond.

Graphite shaft that I just had to put a bit more time in tip prepping. A fair amount of epoxy did come out when sliding in the tip with shim up into hosel but it was not like I had to add significant force to get it fully seated -- a few extra taps to ensure fit. I may have gone over board with the shafting beads could be why it didn't feel like it was seated properly at first.

[Stuart_G]

1 hour ago, BTP said:

Graphite shaft that I just had to put a bit more time in tip prepping. A fair amount of epoxy did come out when sliding in the tip with shim up into hosel but it was not like I had to add significant force to get it fully seated -- a few extra taps to ensure fit. I may have gone over board with the shafting beads could be why it didn't feel like it was seated properly at first.

 

Ideally there should be a enough space for a thin layer of glue between the shaft and the shim and between the other side of the shim and the hosel wall.    The shim should be part of the glue joint, not excluded from it.   In your case, there is likely enough glue between the shaft and the hosel wall where no shim is present and if you cut down the shim, that might be enough even if there isn't enough glue left where the shim is present.

 

Just an FYI - you don't need to use both the beads and the shim.   In this particular case (based on the decent fit before using the shim), one or the other would have been plenty.    And if you did really go overboard with the shafting beads, that can weaken the glue joint.   How much did you use?   You should never use more than 10% by volume.

 

Edited May 11, 2021 by Stuart_G

[BTP]

Good to know on the beads and shim front. I usually go with a pinch of shafting beads and blend it with the epoxy and then sprinkle some on prior to install.