Resetting hickory driver head.

[Nickc]

I am in the process of restoring a hickory driver. The shaft is a little short so I am extending it. I also noticed the head seemed slightly loose so I removed the whipping and the head slipped off fairy easily. What I noticed is that on the shaft tip or in the head there appeared to be no old glue residue what so ever, the shaft tip is very clean and can see no old glue deposits in the club hosel.

So my questions are:

would the head when the club was made not be glued in place, relying on the tight fit and the whipping to keep it in place?

When refitting the head should I glue it back in place (my instinct is to do this) and as it is a wood to wood joint should I opt for epoxy or Titebond III?

Thanks

Edited November 19, 2022 by Nickc
Typos

[Wham49]

i'm looking for some of the same info, looks dry on here for hickory woods info, I would glue the head for sure, I'm looking for how to get it off, as the bagand boiling water method just doesnt seem to be the only way to safely get the head off to me. there has to be an easier way

[Hickory4ever]

6 hours ago, Wham49 said:

i'm looking for some of the same info, looks dry on here for hickory woods info, I would glue the head for sure, I'm looking for how to get it off, as the bagand boiling water method just doesnt seem to be the only way to safely get the head off to me. there has to be an easier way

I don’t believe there is an easier way. 90-100 year old wood needs to be heated carefully or you risk catastrophic failure. Personally, I would not remove the shaft from a wood except after a broken shaft. My friend that does the work uses the same process that was outlined above or cuts off the shaft above the hosel and drills it out carefully. 
 

I have had three woods that have had the head come off when the old glue failed. Each was able to be reshafted successfully. I knew another guy that decided he wanted to change shafts and used a heat gun against the advice of the local expert. The club got reshafted and on the the third or fourth shot, the head split into two pieces. I would tread carefully.

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

5 hours ago, Hickory4ever said:

I don’t believe there is an easier way. 90-100 year old wood needs to be heated carefully or you risk catastrophic failure. Personally, I would not remove the shaft from a wood except after a broken shaft. My friend that does the work uses the same process that was outlined above or cuts off the shaft above the hosel and drills it out carefully. 
 

I have had three woods that have had the head come off when the old glue failed. Each was able to be reshafted successfully. I knew another guy that decided he wanted to change shafts and used a heat gun against the advice of the local expert. The club got reshafted and on the the third or fourth shot, the head split into two pieces. I would tread carefully.

100% correct, but I think you are swimming against the tide.

[Wham49]

10 hours ago, Hickory4ever said:

I don’t believe there is an easier way. 90-100 year old wood needs to be heated carefully or you risk catastrophic failure. Personally, I would not remove the shaft from a wood except after a broken shaft. My friend that does the work uses the same process that was outlined above or cuts off the shaft above the hosel and drills it out carefully. 
 

I have had three woods that have had the head come off when the old glue failed. Each was able to be reshafted successfully. I knew another guy that decided he wanted to change shafts and used a heat gun against the advice of the local expert. The club got reshafted and on the the third or fourth shot, the head split into two pieces. I would tread carefully.

I thnk I am just doing the if it comes apart put it back together method. I do not want to comprimise the club for sure.. I see myself screwing up the boiling water and bag method as much as a heat gun. So I am going to put new whipping on and if it comes apart, I will glue it back on. Thank you boys

[Nickc]

On 11/19/2022 at 12:19 PM, Nickc said:

I am in the process of restoring a hickory driver. The shaft is a little short so I am extending it. I also noticed the head seemed slightly loose so I removed the whipping and the head slipped off fairy easily. What I noticed is that on the shaft tip or in the head there appeared to be no old glue residue what so ever, the shaft tip is very clean and can see no old glue deposits in the club hosel.

So my questions are:

would the head when the club was made not be glued in place, relying on the tight fit and the whipping to keep it in place?

When refitting the head should I glue it back in place (my instinct is to do this) and as it is a wood to wood joint should I opt for epoxy or Titebond III?

Thanks

I extended the shaft and them used epoxy  to reset head and re whipped. All seems fine ...though as the loft on this driver is very low may not use much.

I suppose I was lucky that the head slipped off so easily - btw the hole in hosel of the head that accepts the shaft shows the craftsmanship these club makers had. 

[Wham49]

On 12/10/2022 at 11:19 AM, Nickc said:

I extended the shaft and them used epoxy  to reset head and re whipped. All seems fine ...though as the loft on this driver is very low may not use much.

I suppose I was lucky that the head slipped off so easily - btw the hole in hosel of the head that accepts the shaft shows the craftsmanship these club makers had. 

did you yuse the boiling water method, just curious as I have not gotten chance to work on mine yet?

[Nickc]

On 12/13/2022 at 1:45 PM, Wham49 said:

did you yuse the boiling water method, just curious as I have not gotten chance to work on mine yet?

No..did not need to after removing the old whipping the head, though a tight fit, just slipped off with ease!

[st1800e]

The method back in the day was a 48” 1/4” diameter rod, heated to red and inserted down the shaft.  After removing the back screw. Don’t leave it in too long.   Rinse and repeat. Briefly…. The glue in those days was pretty weak, and would disappear. Think mucillage….And if the club was used in rainy conditions, and put away wet, under a leather headcover…..

Edited December 18, 2022 by st1800e

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, st1800e said:

The method back in the day was a 48” 1/4” diameter rod, heated to red and inserted down the shaft.  After removing the back screw. Don’t leave it in too long.   Rinse and repeat. Briefly…. The glue in those days was pretty weak, and would disappear. Think mucillage….And if the club was used in rainy conditions, and put away wet, under a leather headcover…..

how do you insert a 1/4" rod down a hickory shaft?

[st1800e]

Hah!  Oops, Replying in wrong thread…….