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Dunlop Tad Moore blades


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I used a circular Scotch pad abrasive thingy which fits in a drill. I then placed the club safely in a vice and spun the pad being careful to move in one direction. I then finished the head using a hand-held pad. Each iron took about 20 minutes. These iron are made of Carpenter steel and the mirror finish tends to mark easily. Doing the heads in a satin finish blended the scratches.

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[quote name='Nspiel58' timestamp='1316184392' post='3568115']
Good questions Rex. I don't know if these replaced the Australian blades, which I would like to get, but if true, provides a degree of consolation, since the Australians are difficult to find. These blades are nice to hit with a soft feel.
[/quote]
Those are beauties! :coolpics:
My wife is off on a shopping trip with her gal friends , and she said she will check out goodwill and other shops for old clubs. I have the above Tad Moore irons on the list. Those are in unbelieveably GREAT condition. Congratulations!

teespoon

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These were designed for the dunlop staff in 2001 and were produced until 2003. At the end of my Maxfli days 1996 I had created the second generation Aussie TM 92 blades and made a small run of these at Tad Moore golf 1997-1999 in a soft 1025 carbon with a satin goldish color chrome. When i started doing work for Dunlop USA I did the signature irons you have. these are made from a fantastic Carpenter Steel alloy that has been used for many tour players when a cast design is made. I feel it plays and feel s like a carbon forging. Fantastic. Because it is expensive and not readily available not many cast heads are made from it. These were played by John Maginnes and Steve jones as well as a few other Tour Players. I hope enjoy these. i would love to make a hort run of these for todays players. Tad Moore

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[quote name='majic' timestamp='1316185984' post='3568172']
These were designed for the dunlop staff in 2001 and were produced until 2003. At the end of my Maxfli days 1996 I had created the second generation Aussie TM 92 blades and made a small run of these at Tad Moore golf 1997-1999 in a soft 1025 carbon with a satin goldish color chrome. When i started doing work for Dunlop USA I did the signature irons you have. these are made from a fantastic Carpenter Steel alloy that has been used for many tour players when a cast design is made. I feel it plays and feel s like a carbon forging. Fantastic. Because it is expensive and not readily available not many cast heads are made from it. These were played by John Maginnes and Steve jones as well as a few other Tour Players. I hope enjoy these. i would love to make a hort run of these for todays players. Tad Moore
[/quote]



Tad. I so appreciate you taking the time to explain about how these beauties came to be. I'd love to see a photo of those 1025s from 97-99. Do you put aside sets you've designed for posterity? Just curious. If I were designing, that's what I would do, but that would mean a lot of clubs after a time. Thanks again.

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I would love to have one of everything but remember i have been making clubs of all types since 1963. i do have most of my clubs from the recent years. I will see if I can get a picture of the Tad Moore Golf blades and if so i will post it so you can see the similarities. These you have are awful good sticks. Tad

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[quote name='Nspiel58' timestamp='1316147636' post='3567639']
I used a circular Scotch pad abrasive thingy which fits in a drill. I then placed the club safely in a vice and spun the pad being careful to move in one direction. I then finished the head using a hand-held pad. Each iron took about 20 minutes. These iron are made of Carpenter steel and the mirror finish tends to mark easily. Doing the heads in a satin finish blended the scratches.
[/quote]

Would you mind posting exactly which two pads you used (model numbers if you have them please)? I have some winter projects I want to do.

Those irons are how golf clubs are supposed to look! I love cast stainless steel blades.

Thanks in advance!

"You think we play the same stuff you do?"

                                             --Rory McIlroy 

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[quote name='Shallowface' timestamp='1316198874' post='3568626']
[quote name='Nspiel58' timestamp='1316147636' post='3567639']
I used a circular Scotch pad abrasive thingy which fits in a drill. I then placed the club safely in a vice and spun the pad being careful to move in one direction. I then finished the head using a hand-held pad. Each iron took about 20 minutes. These iron are made of Carpenter steel and the mirror finish tends to mark easily. Doing the heads in a satin finish blended the scratches.
[/quote]

Would you mind posting exactly which two pads you used (model numbers if you have them please)? I have some winter projects I want to do.

Those irons are how golf clubs are supposed to look! I love cast stainless steel blades.

Thanks in advance!
[/quote]


I'm not sure what kind of help I'll be. The device for the drill I got over 20 years ago from The Golfworks and I never used it till recently. It's made with 3 pads which have separated since I began to use it. You can purchase a 3M Scotchbrite deburring pad for a grinder from the Golfworks ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_EXLM_A_3M+SCOTCHBRITE+EXL+DEBURRING+%26+FINISHING+WHEEL_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_EXLM_A_3M+SCOTCHBRITE+EXL+DEBURRING+%26+FINISHING+WHEEL_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]).
Pretty expensive. I can't remember what grade of hand pad I used. I think it's just a medium vareity, not too scratchy, just enought to create light lines which I keep working on till an even finish is acheived. They were a generic brand which I purchased at a local home building centre. I experimented on another set of irons till I thought I could work on Tad's blades. Thanks for the nice comments.

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[quote name='Nspiel58' timestamp='1316200247' post='3568685']
[quote name='Shallowface' timestamp='1316198874' post='3568626']
[quote name='Nspiel58' timestamp='1316147636' post='3567639']
I used a circular Scotch pad abrasive thingy which fits in a drill. I then placed the club safely in a vice and spun the pad being careful to move in one direction. I then finished the head using a hand-held pad. Each iron took about 20 minutes. These iron are made of Carpenter steel and the mirror finish tends to mark easily. Doing the heads in a satin finish blended the scratches.
[/quote]

Would you mind posting exactly which two pads you used (model numbers if you have them please)? I have some winter projects I want to do.

Those irons are how golf clubs are supposed to look! I love cast stainless steel blades.

Thanks in advance!
[/quote]


I'm not sure what kind of help I'll be. The device for the drill I got over 20 years ago from The Golfworks and I never used it till recently. It's made with 3 pads which have separated since I began to use it. You can purchase a 3M Scotchbrite deburring pad for a grinder from the Golfworks ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_EXLM_A_3M+SCOTCHBRITE+EXL+DEBURRING+%26+FINISHING+WHEEL_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_EXLM_A_3M+SCOTCHBRITE+EXL+DEBURRING+%26+FINISHING+WHEEL_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]).
Pretty expensive. I can't remember what grade of hand pad I used. I think it's just a medium vareity, not too scratchy, just enought to create light lines which I keep working on till an even finish is acheived. They were a generic brand which I purchased at a local home building centre. I experimented on another set of irons till I thought I could work on Tad's blades. Thanks for the nice comments.
[/quote]

Thank you very much for responding to me!

"You think we play the same stuff you do?"

                                             --Rory McIlroy 

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[quote name='majic' timestamp='1316185984' post='3568172']
These were designed for the dunlop staff in 2001 and were produced until 2003. At the end of my Maxfli days 1996 I had created the second generation Aussie TM 92 blades and made a small run of these at Tad Moore golf 1997-1999 in a soft 1025 carbon with a satin goldish color chrome. When i started doing work for Dunlop USA I did the signature irons you have. these are made from a fantastic Carpenter Steel alloy that has been used for many tour players when a cast design is made. I feel it plays and feel s like a carbon forging. Fantastic. Because it is expensive and not readily available not many cast heads are made from it. These were played by John Maginnes and Steve jones as well as a few other Tour Players. I hope enjoy these. i would love to make a hort run of these for todays players. Tad Moore
[/quote]

Tad-

First, let me say it is an honor and a privilege to reply to you directly-

Also, let it be known your milled putter, the[i][b] LH Maxfli TM-5[/b][/i], was in my bag for more than a few successful years.

I notice you didn't answer my question about whether your iron clubs were offered LH-

You could comment on all the costs and difficulties of making LH forged clubs...

I suspect any "short run" of clubs you made would be RH only.

So- Did Maxfli ever make a LH Tour Limited Forged Iron, or offer LH Australian Blades?

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I am sorry to say that neither Dunlop or Maxfli made my irons in LH. I had intended to at Tad Moore Golf but again we never had the sales volume. Maxfki did make a few of my CNC and Cast series in LH. In 2012 I will introduce a series of LH putters. Sorry I never was able to convince the marketing people. Tad

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quote name='majic' timestamp='1316310979' post='3571103']
I am sorry to say that neither Dunlop or Maxfli made my irons in LH. I had intended to at Tad Moore Golf but again we never had the sales volume. Maxfki did make a few of my CNC and Cast series in LH. In 2012 I will introduce a series of LH putters. Sorry I never was able to convince the marketing people. Tad
[/quote]

[attachment=860122:100_9625.JPG][attachment=860123:100_9621.JPG][

Tad-

You do not have to apologize for anything-
I used your putter with great success. It's the reason I don't own or need a SC.
You were there when Titleist wasn't 20 years ago, and I will always be grateful.

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Rex. Are you left-handed? I'm one of those weird fellows who's left-handed but swing right. Being from Canada, that's a rareity, since so many Canucks play left-handed though they're naturally right. It's from hockey I guess. It's too bad Tad couldn't get the support. I'm thinking Golfwrx is a good place for advertising however.

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Yes. I'm like Phil. Write right handed but play golf left handed.

Check out my post for LH MacGregor Persimmons on people who write left handed but play golf right handed.

Notables are USGA Open Champions Johnny Miller, Dale Douglass (Senior), and Curtis Strange.

Because of my conversation with Tad, I'm putting the TM-5 putter back in the bag.

Great Clubs!

Thanks for the thread.

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I played the TM92 blades for several years, even going to the extent of acquiring backup sets.

I still have an unhit set around some place.

Great irons!

Texsport

Mizuno GT180 10.5*/Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 5 X
Tour Edge Exotics CB F2 PRO 15.5* Limited/Speeder 757 EVO 7.1X (Gene Sauers club)
Titleist 915 18*/Fubuki K 80X
Titleist 913 Hybrid 21*/Tour Blue 105X (Matt Jones' club) (OR) TM Burner 4-iron/Aldila RIP 115 Tour S
Wilson Staff V4 5 and 6/Aerotech Fibersteel 110 S
MacGregor PRO M 7-PM/Aldila RIP 115 Tour S
Edel 50*/KBS 610 S
Scratch JMO Grind Don White 56*/DG X-100
Cobra Trusty Rusty Tour 64*/DG S-200
The Cure CX2 putter

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[quote name='Texsport' timestamp='1316353485' post='3571625']
I played the TM92 blades for several years, even going to the extent of acquiring backup sets.

I still have an unhit set around some place.

Great irons!

Texsport
[/quote]



I'd really like to see a photo of those. Thanks for the comments.

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[quote name='rex235' timestamp='1316316766' post='3571254']
Yes. I'm like Phil. Write right handed but play golf left handed.

Check out my post for LH MacGregor Persimmons on people who write left handed but play golf right handed.

Notables are Johnny Miller, Dale Douglass (Senior), and Curtis Strange.

Because of my conversation with Tad, I'm putting the TM-5 putter back in the bag.

Great Clubs!

Thanks for the thread.
[/quote]


Thanks for your comments and questions Rex and for the photo of that "experienced" Tad Moore putter.

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  • 6 years later...

As a soon-to-be owner of some TM-92s I'm poring all over this site looking for every possible scrap of information :-)

 

The ones I am getting - https://www.ebay.com/i/202070897709 - do not have Maxfli stamped on the sole, or TM-92 stamped on the hosel like the ones in the pics Teevons posted above.

 

Anyone know what the difference between them is? Different years?

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