Scotty Cameron Refinishing

[Matthew32]

I am considering trying to refinish my first putter, I wanted to ask all of you if it would be possible to bring this putter back to life. :-)

 

My biggest consern is the dings where the paint has gone of, will I be able to get rid of them with plain sandpaper?

 

I am also considering to get some birchwood Casey Gun Blue Paste to darken the finish on the putter.

Please tell me what you think about my little project. :

[bu11dog]

While the dings are kind of deep I don't see why you wouldn't be able to save this one. The only thing I've learned from doing my own resto was that it is easy to sand out the mill marks on the face.

Good luck. I'd be interested in seeing how it turns out for you.

[Matthew32]

Thank you for the answer. I am just thinking, if i sand the whole putter down and leave the face to save the mill marks from being sanded away - the finish on the face will be different from the rest of the putter, am I right?

[bu11dog]

I wish I could help you there, but I'm not a finish guy. Sorry.

I sanded down an old SC Caliente (the bastxxx of the SC line) and made the mistake of sanding away the mill marks. I ended up sending it to Slighter to get the face deep milled. It looks great and feels awesome, but I still wish I hadn't removed the original marks.

[Pondy]

I'm guessing that is a Pro Platinum NP2. If that is Pro Platinum (over Carbon steel), you will not be able to Blue it without removing the nickel plating and that is not a DIY project.

You can sand down those top line dings, but it might be hard to keep the top line even. A bad line would look much more glaring than the original dings.

If you want the dings gone and a GB finish, IMHO, probably better to send that one out. Unless you're determined to DIY, which is cool

The SC custom shop will now restore a PP putter with either the new bead blasted Oil Can Mist or Gun Blue Mist, in addition to shiny Pro Platinum. I have an older Studio Design 2.5 in the shop right now for the bead blasted GB mist. You might want to consider that option.

The restoration includes
re-milling the head to remove dings and apply a new finish and paint (you can choose the colors)
new shaft
shaft label
head cover

You'd be right on $200 for restoration with either of the mist finishes, or $150 for the original Pro Platinum finish. The mist finishes do get a bead blasting to reduce the glare while the original PP is polished. They just introduced the bead blasted mist finishes in mid-June, so it will be pretty interesting to see them once they get back into the general population.

If you chose this route, you could upgrade your head cover and grip to one of their CS specials and then resell them on the bay to recover some of the cost. That's what I've done with mine with good success.

I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear, but I've done 5 of them now, and for me it is easier to let the pro do it, and get a new stick.

I apologize if this sounded like an add for the CS; I was just trying to share some stuff that I've learned.

Pon

[bu11dog]

[quote name='Pondy' timestamp='1341768493' post='5237204']
I'm guessing that is a Pro Platinum NP2. If that is Pro Platinum (over Carbon steel), you will not be able to Blue it without removing the nickel plating and that is not a DIY project.

You can sand down those top line dings, but it might be hard to keep the top line even. A bad line would look much more glaring than the original dings.

If you want the dings gone and a GB finish, IMHO, probably better to send that one out. Unless you're determined to DIY, which is cool

The SC custom shop will now restore a PP putter with either the new bead blasted Oil Can Mist or Gun Blue Mist, in addition to shiny Pro Platinum. I have an older Studio Design 2.5 in the shop right now for the bead blasted GB mist. You might want to consider that option.

The restoration includes
re-milling the head to remove dings and apply a new finish and paint (you can choose the colors)
new shaft
shaft label
head cover

You'd be right on $200 for restoration with either of the mist finishes, or $150 for the original Pro Platinum finish. The mist finishes do get a bead blasting to reduce the glare while the original PP is polished. They just introduced the bead blasted mist finishes in mid-June, so it will be pretty interesting to see them once they get back into the general population.

If you chose this route, you could upgrade your head cover and grip to one of their CS specials and then resell them on the bay to recover some of the cost. That's what I've done with mine with good success.

I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear, but I've done 5 of them now, and for me it is easier to let the pro do it, and get a new stick.

I apologize if this sounded like an add for the CS; I was just trying to share some stuff that I've learned.

Pon
[/quote]

I tend to agree with this.

The CS does a great job and the only reason I took on the Caliente project was because the studio can't refinish aluminum putters due to California EPA restrictions.

If you're doing it for fun and the experience, give it a roll.

[Pondy]

[quote name='Matthew32' timestamp='1341767923' post='5237164']
Thank you for the answer. I am just thinking, if i sand the whole putter down and leave the face to save the mill marks from being sanded away - the finish on the face will be different from the rest of the putter, am I right?
[/quote]

Short answer this time, lol. Yup, they would be different. I will say that as part of the resto, you do get fantastic new milling on the face.See the attached pictures of my Oilcan Newport 2 putter that they restored. It is similar to yours in that it is also carbon steel. That is the SAME putter, lol.

[Pondy]

Original pics

[Pondy]

B11D, I loved my Caliente too, but you're right about the no refinish.

I just donated it this past week to a guy on TCC to give to his younger brother as his first SC putter.

[Pondy]

Here's one of the top line (before) so you can see how dinged they can be, and still be saved.

[Matthew32]

Wow, that SC of yours really came out great.
I am not thinking about sending the putter to companies for refinishment, im thinking of this as a DIY project.
Now that the GB is'nt possible, would it be best just to sand it to the buttom and stick to that "sanded" finish?
What would you do if you had to do it yourself?

[Matthew32]

I can refer to this guy - he does exactly the job i would like to do myself. [url="http://thepowerfade.com/tag/diy-restoration-of-a-putter/"]http://thepowerfade.com/tag/diy-restoration-of-a-putter/[/url]

[Pondy]

[quote name='Matthew32' timestamp='1341771414' post='5237414']
Wow, that SC of yours really came out great.
I am not thinking about sending the putter to companies for refinishment, im thinking of this as a DIY project.
Now that the GB is'nt possible, would it be best just to sand it to the buttom and stick to that "sanded" finish?
What would you do if you had to do it yourself?
[/quote]

Well, I think the carbon steel will rust pronto, without any finish on it. So, if you were to go ahead and sand it down, I would say put gun blue on it. But you will lose some head weight, and as mentioned, the original milling will probably disappear. Maybe the best thing is to game it as is, and refinish another putter?

[kingmallord]

Hi, I'd refer you to Pondy's answer your putter looks like a Pro Platinum which has a nickel plating over carbon steel. You would have to take off the nickel plating but as he suggests this can't be achieved with basic sanding......a metal plating/chroming business may be able to do it for you and then you can work on the dings and give it the finish you want...oil can, gun blue, barrel brown etc.

The example you refer to is a stainless steel putter which is completely different.

Cheers

[crawdaddygolf]

Why not buy a cheaper putter first to try out. If you get to sanding much on the top line you can ruin your sc.

When you feel good about it have a metal refinishing company strip off nickel , Then you sand and then have them black oxide

[RookieBlue7]

Yes, the home bluing is possible, Caswells sells a product that removes the pro platinum finish and doesn't have hazmat by products called MetalX B-9. There's a post on here about that product. Works well from everything I've seen and read about it.

[MNoonan]

I have a Studio Select NP 2.5 (2010) . What kind of finish options do they offer for Stainless?

[oneaugusta]

Save yourself 50% and send it to BOS, their work is as good or better than Scotty's and you have the choice of finishes

[t-ball]

Got to second the BOS recommendation ! First class all the way !!! At least they will call with any questions, instead of just doing what they want and you r stuck ! with what you get back. Awesome finishes, waiting on a mil spec done up in aquamarine. Should have it back in a couple of weeks. Sent it in 2 weeks ago. Can't wait !!!!

[Sporting chance]

You've picked a tough putter for your first restoration. As has been mentioned you have carbon steel with a Nickel layer ( the Pro Platinum) and to begin any kind of serious restoration you would have to remove the nickel layer to expose the carbon steel. Removal of the nickel can be by reverse plating ( how a chrome plating specialist would do it), by dipping in extremely caustic chemicles or possibly blasting. None of these are really first time DIY processes.
I would suggest that if you really wanted a go at restoring a Cameron yourself you should start with an oil can or gun blued classic like the Circa 62 range.

[RookieBlue7]

MetalX B-9 by Caswell Plating removes the pro platinum and has no hazardous byproducts. I did get to finally try it and it works like a champ. No need overpaying for something that can be easily DIY'd.

[finchi5]

Shame you aren't in the UK, I strip these and hot black ox these regularly, Good luck with the resto though

[horty1388]

[quote name='RookieBlue7' timestamp='1405024984' post='9675703']
MetalX B-9 by Caswell Plating removes the pro platinum and has no hazardous byproducts. I did get to finally try it and it works like a champ. No need overpaying for something that can be easily DIY'd.
[/quote]

Hey rookie did you heat the solution when using it? If so, what kind if contraption did you use?

[smeech8000]

horty, I believe you can throw it on the stove in an old pot if you wish (without fear of retribution from the wifey!), or IIRC from an older thread one guy simply set the pot out in the back of his truck on a hot sunny day for a few hours. Worked like a charm.

[horty1388]

Thanks smeech rather not do it in the kitchen, think I'm going to try an immersion heater. I'm not trying to get mass amounts of nickel off, just whatever is left over after chrome removal. It sucks getting clubs back from black ox with chunks of nickel showing and having to redo the club

Has anyone tried making small batches rather than use it all at once? Or can it just be left in a sealed bucket afterwards and reused?

[smeech8000]

Immersion heater should work - you don't need to (nor should you) bring the solution to a boil per instructions. IIRC something in the 125-150F range is fine.

Which product are you using? I'm assuming B-9 since you're steel is your base metal.

Description says 2.5 lb will make 1 gallon of solution, so I would think a smaller batch could be effective as long as you maintain the ratio. With a small pot you could probably get by with a quart of solution... don't know if that is enough product but since you're only looking to get out a few flecks it just might work.

Is media blasting not an in-house option?

[sandtrap]

glass beads won't take it off, anyone tried any other media? I don't want to switch out for experimental purposes.

[horty1388]

[quote name='smeech8000' timestamp='1405427192' post='9703515']
Immersion heater should work - you don't need to (nor should you) bring the solution to a boil per instructions. IIRC something in the 125-150F range is fine.

Which product are you using? I'm assuming B-9 since you're steel is your base metal.

Description says 2.5 lb will make 1 gallon of solution, so I would think a smaller batch could be effective as long as you maintain the ratio. With a small pot you could probably get by with a quart of solution... don't know if that is enough product but since you're only looking to get out a few flecks it just might work.

Is media blasting not an in-house option?
[/quote]

All heads are ground with 3m pads on an angle grinder and then blasted with glass or aluminum oxide depending on desired finish. 95% or heads come out perfect but that 5% really chaps my @ss

[jgagai]

my buddy used sand to blast my sonoma two pro plat. Is that alright to do?