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Fitting Tall Golfers With NO Chart or Preconceived Ideas!

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  • trying2scratchtrying2scratch Members  1053WRX Points: 85Posts: 1,053 Bunkers
    Joined:  edited Nov 22, 2016 #182
    Rybo, just wondering if you stayed at 37.75 with your wedges or have adjusted any more?<br />
    <br />
    If I gave you my height, WTF and shoulder to floor(where do u measure from?) could you give me an idea of what my low club limit would be?<br />
    <br />
    I've played this year with an moi matched set with 3/8th increments with some success(36" wedges). Is there a way to use these increments with your length system? <br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Thanks again!
    Posted:
    Post edited by Unknown User on
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  • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #183
    <br />
    Rybo, just wondering if you stayed at 37.75 with your wedges or have adjusted any more?<br />
    <br />
    If I gave you my height, WTF and shoulder to floor(where do u measure from?) could you give me an idea of what my low club limit would be?<br />
    <br />
    I've played this year with an moi matched set with 3/8th increments with some success(36" wedges). Is there a way to use these increments with your length system? <br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Thanks again!<br />
    <br />
    For the last few weeks I've been playing my wedges as follows: <br />
    <br />
    Lob wedge is 37.5"<br />
    Sand wedge is 37.75"<br />
    Gap and PW are 38" <br />
    <br />
    3/8" increments are fine; any increment is fine. The whole idea of this is to find the minimum length you require due to a tall persons higher shoulders and minimally longer arms and build the set from this longer starting point. <br />
    <br />
    The best I would be able to recommend is based off of average body proportions which is based on height. While this is several times better for those of us over 6' 2' it's not nearly as accurate as the low limit length test. Provide height and WTF.
    Posted:
  • trying2scratchtrying2scratch Members  1053WRX Points: 85Posts: 1,053 Bunkers
    Joined:  #184
    I am 6'3'' and my WTF is 38.5 with my golf shoes on. <br />
    <br />
    I have a spare wedge head and a 3 iron shaft i can dry fit to see how it feels tonight. <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
    Posted:
  • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #185
    <br />
    I am 6'3'' and my WTF is 38.5 with my golf shoes on. <br />
    <br />
    I have a spare wedge head and a 3 iron shaft i can dry fit to see how it feels tonight. <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /><br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Your WTF is close to someone who is an average 6' 5", so your shortest wedge will be around 37.75".
    Posted:
  • trying2scratchtrying2scratch Members  1053WRX Points: 85Posts: 1,053 Bunkers
    Joined:  #186
    rybo wrote:
    <br />
    <br />
    I am 6'3'' and my WTF is 38.5 with my golf shoes on. <br />
    <br />
    I have a spare wedge head and a 3 iron shaft i can dry fit to see how it feels tonight. <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /><br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Your WTF is close to someone who is an average 6' 5", so your shortest wedge will be around 37.75".<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Sweet! Ship me your wedge to try out.... ha ha I kid. <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/taunt.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':taunt:' /><br />
    <br />
    Very interesting, no wonder people comment on "your clubs look to short!"... right after I thin one over the green on a 130 yrd Par 3 <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /><br />
    <br />
    Where do you measure for the shoulder height spec(inside arm pit, mid point on front side of shoulder?). Interested to see if that is in the same height range.<br />
    <br />
    Also, interested if you noticed if you can take a "fuller" turn or a deeper hip turn with your new set up. After reading your comment on handing a 5'9'' fitter a wedge that's 4 inches too short. I couldn't help but picturing that it really wouldn't be possible to take a "full" swing with a club like that, there is just no way to keep your spine angle/head position while fully turning into you hip with a full shoulder turn. Maybe that's why most bigger/taller guys always struggle with grip pressure too, they have to make so many more manipulations just to get the club face on the ball that an avg person never has to accommodate for. Too many manipulations/tension with the hands = bad golf swing, pretty universal golf principle.<br />
    <br />
    Sorry for the rambling, but this has all my tinkering wheels turning. Thanks again for all the info and help. Cheers!
    Posted:
  • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
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    I have not come up with a repeatable way to measure shoulder height. The charts show to the joint so the best I've come up wth is measure under the arm pit, then to the top of the shoulder and use the average. But it's just not very repeatable. This is why I came up with using an uncut shaft in a 64* head. It accounts for all of an individuals body parts and posture at the same time. <br />
    <br />
    As for a fuller turn that could mean a lot of things. It does feel like the back swing is more natural and easier for sure. There is less extra movement in the legs, again feels easier to make the swing. I've noticed on the follow through I do not pop up anymore. My body was so low/bent over at impact that it had no choice but to recoil to a more upright position to complete the follow through.
    Posted:
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  • smellysellsmellysell North Butte ♥ KSig Members  1000WRX Points: 0Posts: 1,000
    Joined:  #188
    Going to go get fit next week hopefully and my teacher/pro is on board with adding a couple inches, he actually suggested it. Once I can try a few lightweight shafts and see what works, guess the next step will be pulling heads from the irons I have and seeing what they weigh.
    Posted:
  • phi482phi482 Members  1012WRX Points: 110Posts: 1,012 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #189
    Thanks for putting all this together. It is certainly interesting stuff. I am 6'4" with a WTF of 37.5" with my FootJoys, 38" with Brooks running shoes. I haven't gone through an iron fitting in some time but when I did I ended up with +.5" from Titleist standard. Which over the years I have determined is not nearly enough. I have heavy toe down divots and what you have been saying is kind of an epiphany. I have a couple questions if I may and I'm sorry if you answered these earlier in the thread. I went through it but not every post.<br />
    <br />
    Are you able install the appropriate taper tip iron shaft for the head or are you having to soft step to get the additional length?<br />
    Have you or anyone else tried those Secret Grips that are counterbalanced to get a normal swing weight with all the additional length?<br />
    What length putter are you playing? I have always used 35' and never really felt comfortable with one. The only round I have ever played under par was with a belly putter at about 42".<br />
    <br />
    Thanks for all your time and effort you have put into this and updating the thread.
    Posted:
    Titleist TS3 10.5 - Ventus 6x Tester
    Titleist TS3 3 wood - PX Smoke 6.5
    Mizuno MP20 HBM 3 iron 
    Mizuno MP20 MMC 4-P 
    Vokey SM6 - 50.12, 54.14, 60.10 - s400
    Bettinardi SS3 - SC Newport 2 SS
  • trying2scratchtrying2scratch Members  1053WRX Points: 85Posts: 1,053 Bunkers
    Joined:  #190
    Not an expert, but if you are playing larger grips it could help offset the weight diff. Also, depending on your build/weight you may not have any issue with the added weight. I think Rybo went with aerotech shafts to offset the added length.<br />
    <br />
    I have an older set i plan on playing around with this winter, so might try Some TT lite xl shafts. They are cheap and I use larger grips, plus I prefer heavier swing weights as is. If this test set really works well, I may invest in a graphite shaft option, but they are pricey! I will still keep an eye out for a winter deal though <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Plus I'm not sure if they make longer lengths, so messing with graphite shaft extensions (+2") kind of scares me in an iron. <br />
    <br />
    As for the putter, I went to a 36" putter this year and it has been a real help(I'm 6.3). Still able to bend at the waist with a good natural arm hang, but can see the line much better. I went with more weight in the grip this year too and it has improved my distance control dramatically. I have found the sweetspot for me is 355g putter head, 36", and 128g grip (Winn 15", love the size of it. not too big, not too small.)
    Posted:
  • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #191
    phi482 wrote:
    <br />
    Thanks for putting all this together. It is certainly interesting stuff. I am 6'4" with a WTF of 37.5" with my FootJoys, 38" with Brooks running shoes. I haven't gone through an iron fitting in some time but when I did I ended up with +.5" from Titleist standard. Which over the years I have determined is not nearly enough. I have heavy toe down divots and what you have been saying is kind of an epiphany.
    <br />
    Heavy toe down divots are one of the main indicators of being too short. More upright will only exasperate the problem. 6' 4" and a 38' WTF is a pretty 'standard' set of measurements for your height.<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    phi482 wrote:
    <br />
    Are you able install the appropriate taper tip iron shaft for the head or are you having to soft step to get the additional length?
    <br />
    Fortunately I am able to use tapers with no issue. I am either right at the end of the shaft or only need to cut 1/4" or so off.<br />
    <br />
    phi482 wrote:
    <br />
    Have you or anyone else tried those Secret Grips that are counterbalanced to get a normal swing weight with all the additional length?
    <br />
    Have only been using 80g or so oversized grips.<br />
    <br />
    phi482 wrote:
    <br />
    What length putter are you playing? I have always used 35' and never really felt comfortable with one. The only round I have ever played under par was with a belly putter at about 42".<br />
    <br />
    I have used everything from 34" to 39" standard form. Even used a long putter for about a year. Belly putters were always a no go for me. Currently using 35.75". Putting is what ever works for the individual. Spent a lot of time in the past trying to come with a better system for fitting putters to tall people, unfortunately the range of body positions people use when putting varies too much. If you feel it's uncomfortable it is.
    Posted:
  • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
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    I tried a few different shaft weights that now has me rethinking some things. <br />
    <br />
    Reassembled a 5, 8 & PW from a set of CG7 TC Comps that have DG X100's in them. Extended them to my lengths (38", 38.5" & 40") and installed oversized Lamkin Crosslines and while the overall weight is heavy they only swingweight around D7, and they are very playable. Definitely a bit more effort during the swing but nothing I would consider a show stopper. I think it would be possible to adapt to these with no issues. Ball flight was pretty high but quite straight. More of a point and shoot kind of set up. Wasn't expecting this outcome.<br />
    <br />
    Also built up two wedges, 56* and 60*, with C Taper S+'s. Extended these to 38.25" and 38" which is longer then I have been using and used midsize grips on both. These heads are standard weights, 297g & 298g I believe. Swing weight is around E4, due to the lighter grips, additional length and no weight removed from the heads. These were incredibly accurate and controllable. Lost about 10 yards on full shots, that is an estimate as the wind was directly in the face today. Again they feel a touch heavy but these may go in the bag for the next round to see what happens on the course. Knock down and half shots were very good. May change the grips to oversized which will bring the swingweight down a bit more and fit my hands a bit better.<br />
    <br />
    Thinking the Steelfibers in S are just too soft; which I stated early on. The X's are much better. The lower weight makes the club feel much lighter then what the swing weight reads, D7. Feels more like D1 but has a good balance. Overall weight is down the expected 30 or so grams. <br />
    <br />
    Thinking of trying a DG SL, I have a 7 iron shaft, so time permitting this will happen.
    Posted:
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  • 03SMURF03SMURF Members  770WRX Points: 38Posts: 770 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #193
    I have some PX 7.0's coming to start my experiment, just need to decide on heads. Tentative projected lengths until I try the low limit test are +2" over std Titleist/Vokey 9ir-lw lengths and 3/8" progression from 9ir up. This puts my 4ir length at 39 3/8". I'll be playing a hybrid for the first time (20*) and will probably make it 40 1/4" to 40 5/8". I'm hesitant on the hybrid length as I've always played std length woods and often consider going -1/2" on my driver and 3 wood. If it doesn't work I'll cut it down some.
    Posted:
    M3 440 9° - Tensei CK Pro Orange V3 70TX
    915 Fd 15° - ATMOS Black 8TX
    Wilson C300 Forged - 3-5 - Steelfiber 110X Hardstepped 1x
    Wilson FG Tour V6 - 6-PW - Steelfiber 110X Hardstepped 1x
    Cleveland RTX4 Raw - 50, 56, 62 - Steelfiber 110X
    Machine M2A Converter - Longneck/Half Offset - Iomic Putter Grip Midsize
    2019 Titleist Pro V1
    4up Stadry
  • CheckJVCheckJV Male Model Members  2115WRX Points: 158Posts: 2,115 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #194
    I installed PX 6.0 graphite shafts in my DPC40s years ago (still my gamers) and the stock shaft length was just over +2 inches so I only had to trim a very short section of each butt. Those shafts are tapered. <br />
    <br />
    As far a adding extensions to graphite shafts I have had great success with steel extensions. Never had a structural failure and I've added up to 3 inches. Only did this for divers and fairways but not currently gaming them as I have returned to stock length.
    Posted:
  • Par-net-birdiePar-net-birdie Members  241WRX Points: 0Handicap: 5.3Posts: 241
    Joined:  #195
    Great thread<br />
    Being 6'4" and a 37.5" wtf in bare feet<br />
    I play all my irons 1.5" overlength<br />
    <br />
    I started with my old mans blades from the early seventies a dozen years ago . Standard length for their era<br />
    After 2 years I bought irons and was fitted to 1" overlength<br />
    The fitter said I'd need longer but the clubs would be unhittable<br />
    I took his word and played this length and after about 5 years of this I never felt ok over any shot<br />
    I played at a 10 hdcp <br />
    I bought new miuras and got fit properly<br />
    +1.5 steelfiber 110x flex , never felt so comfortable ever <br />
    Didn't have to have the end of the grip swallowed in my hands<br />
    I built my other miuras with Nippon 1150x same build <br />
    Irons have never been hard to hit and control <br />
    I have a good young fitter who doesn't buy into a standard fitting formula , he takes the time to get lies lifts launch etc correct for each individual<br />
    With the first proper fitting I dropped down to a 4 in about 3 months<br />
    For what it's worth all my iron sets (12) are built to the same specs and aw (d8) <br />
    Any lighter and I can't feel the head in my swing
    Posted:
  • GolfrnutGolfrnut Members  7645WRX Points: 458Posts: 7,645 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #196
    <br />
    Not an expert, but if you are playing larger grips it could help offset the weight diff. Also, depending on your build/weight you may not have any issue with the added weight. I think Rybo went with aerotech shafts to offset the added length.<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Be careful trying to go that direction. You don't really offset anything like a swingweight scale will tell you. The weight is still there. Your hands are not located where the fulcrum of the swingweight scale is, so you really don't get any kind of counterbalance like you may think. Your hands are at the end of the club, so you still have to move and control all that weight. If you need to go longer, the only way to really offset the length is to drop some weight, in the case of golf clubs, one of the best ways is through shaft weight. It removes heft weight but allows you to maintain the balance of the club. <br />
    <br />
    Adding weight at the grip usually works a lot more for people that need to feel the added weight in their hands, but do not need the additional weight out past the hands to help them control the club.
    Posted:
    TM M3 440 w/ Speeder Evo II 6.1 TS
    TM M4 13.5 "Small Version"  w/ BB S+ 70
    Taylormade P790 2 UDI w/ DG 105R or M3 19* 5W w/ BB S+ 70
    Taylormade P790 3 Iron w/ DG AMT White R300
    4-PW Nike VR Pro MBs w/ DG AMT White R300
    Callaway MD3 52* & 58* PM grind
    Odyssey MXM 1W
  • scottazscottaz ClubWRX  2057WRX Points: 250Handicap: 1.6Posts: 2,057 ClubWRX
    Joined:  edited Nov 24, 2016 #197
    rybo wrote:
    <br />
    I tried a few different shaft weights that now has me rethinking some things.<br />
    <br />
    Reassembled a 5, 8 & PW from a set of CG7 TC Comps that have DG X100's in them. Extended them to my lengths (38", 38.5" & 40") and installed oversized Lamkin Crosslines and while the overall weight is heavy they only swingweight around D7, and they are very playable. Definitely a bit more effort during the swing but nothing I would consider a show stopper. I think it would be possible to adapt to these with no issues. Ball flight was pretty high but quite straight. More of a point and shoot kind of set up. Wasn't expecting this outcome.<br />
    <br />
    Also built up two wedges, 56* and 60*, with C Taper S+'s. Extended these to 38.25" and 38" which is longer then I have been using and used midsize grips on both. These heads are standard weights, 297g & 298g I believe. Swing weight is around E4, due to the lighter grips, additional length and no weight removed from the heads. These were incredibly accurate and controllable. Lost about 10 yards on full shots, that is an estimate as the wind was directly in the face today. Again they feel a touch heavy but these may go in the bag for the next round to see what happens on the course. Knock down and half shots were very good. May change the grips to oversized which will bring the swingweight down a bit more and fit my hands a bit better.<br />
    <br />
    Thinking the Steelfibers in S are just too soft; which I stated early on. The X's are much better. The lower weight makes the club feel much lighter then what the swing weight reads, D7. Feels more like D1 but has a good balance. Overall weight is down the expected 30 or so grams. <br />
    <br />
    Thinking of trying a DG SL, I have a 7 iron shaft, so time permitting this will happen.<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Your last test is basically my set up. I was concerned about the SW going in, but it quickly became an after thought. Being comfortable over the ball, thru the swing, having the the right flex, all way more important IMO.<br />
    <br />
    Most who need these kind of builds are most likely going to be bigger guys who may not even notice the sw difference and may even welcome it.
    Posted:
    Post edited by Unknown User on

    Ping G400MAX 8.5 TPT 14 proto

    Callaway Super Hybrid 17 Hzrdus tour black 105x

    Callaway Apex 20 Fujikura pro 115x

    Mizuno HMP PW-4 DG TI 100x

    Callaway MD5 Jaws 50s, 55s, 59x DG TI 100x

    L.A.B Golf B.2 blade putter

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  • GalangaGalanga Members  754WRX Points: 122Handicap: 4-6Posts: 754 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #198
    I went with Paderson x-stiffs at 88 gms (see sig) in the irons and they seem about right for weight and flex at about 1.5-1.75" over Titleist MB standard length.<br />
    <br />
    With driver, I am playing with a few shafts in the 50-something weight class in X and Stiff (tipped 1"). Thus far, the Fujkura EII 569 in stiff (tipped 1") and playing at 46.75 inches is winning out. Tried a Jumbomax small (95 gm) on the driver for first time this morning and it swings much better - played just 9 holes this morning and hit 7/7 fairways and could draw or fade the ball no problem.<br />
    <br />
    Going to try Jumbomax smalls on all clubs - excited about that - driver feels great. Tried Jumbomax Mediums about 5 years ago and played fine, but, the grips filled my hands too much and it just felt off (plus the clubs were standard length so they felt really head light), so, I went back to standard and mid-size grips. The Jumbomax, size small, feel nice and usable and the counterweight they offer seems to help (on the driver at least).
    Posted:
      Callaway Mavrik 10.5; Fuji Pro 2.0 6S; 45.25”; D4
      Taylormade SIM Max 3w and 5w; TM Diamana Fwy 75S; 43” And 42”; D4
      Taylormade SIM Max Rescue 4H; TM KBS Hybrid 80S; 40”; D4
      Callaway Apex Pro Combo 5-PW; Aerotech SF i95S; +1/2”; D4
      Titleist Vokey SM8 50F (bent 49) w Modus 105S PW; 54S and 58S (bent 60) w Modus 105 Wedge; all +1/2"; D4.5-6
      John Byron 1999 Dale Head 2 Copper; 35.5/70
















    • Par-net-birdiePar-net-birdie Members  241WRX Points: 0Handicap: 5.3Posts: 241
      Joined:  #199
      I tried shafting a set of staff tour blades with the dg sl in x flex<br />
      I played one round and pulled them<br />
      Ball flight was really high and I couldn't control the <br />
      Distance on full swings. <br />
      I play weak lofts on all my sets pw
      On -, @50* and 4* gaps<br />

      Down to the 2 iron<br />
      I didn't try hard stepping or tipping them<br />
      Just new uncut shafts <br />
      Be interested if you try this out and see your findings<br />
      Posted:
    • smellysellsmellysell North Butte ♥ KSig Members  1000WRX Points: 0Posts: 1,000
      Joined:  #200
      Way too rich for my blood (actually no clue what a new set of these even runs) but the +2" caught my eye. <br />
      <br />
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/191930160996
      Posted:
    • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
      Joined:  edited Nov 26, 2016 #201
      For those who keep questioning if 3/8" gaps (or other gaps for that matter) will work as the club gets longer I will share this.<br />
      <br />
      When I built the first extended set from the low and high limit tests, the lengths were built strictly off of these results to see how playable they would or would not be. Didn't realize until now just how close to 3/8" build it was.<br />
      <br />
      Had a 38" low length and a 40.5" high length.<br />
      <br />
      Gapped as follows:<br />
      <br />
      4 40.5"<br />
      5 40"<br />
      6 39.5"<br />
      7 39"<br />
      8 38.5"<br />
      9 38.25"<br />
      P 38"<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Comparing this to a 3/8" build starting with the shortest club the following gaps would have occurred:<br />
      The lengths in parenthesis are the differences from the build above)<br />
      <br />
      4 40.25" (-.25")<br />
      5 39.875" (-.125")<br />
      6 39.5" (0")<br />
      7 39.125" (+.125")<br />
      8 38.75" (+.250")<br />
      9 38.375" (+.125")<br />
      P 38" (0")<br />
      <br />
      This is so close to a 3/8" build that it's unlikely there would be any noticeable difference in performance. What I find interesting is the low and high length tests compressed the overall lengths to almost to a 3/8" gapping. I actually have slightly shorter short irons and slightly longer long irons and the 6 & PW are exactly the same.
      Posted:
    • smellysellsmellysell North Butte ♥ KSig Members  1000WRX Points: 0Posts: 1,000
      Joined:  #202
      Interesting, I was planning on just doing the short length test, and going 3/8 from there, so more affirmation that will be a good starting point. Thanks Rybo
      Posted:
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    • kenstlkenstl Members  485WRX Points: 94Handicap: 6Posts: 485 Greens
      Joined:  #203
      rybo wrote:
      <br />
      <br />
      Rybo:<br />
      <br />
      Thank you VERY much for doing this. I have always felt the same way with my clubs. Basically the longer clubs don't need to be too much longer but the short irons always feel like I am hunched over or not in a true athletic position. I am 6'-5" with a WTF of 40". I would love to experiment with this and am in the process of building another set of irons. Can you give me a ball park of where to start based off your findings? Thanks and look forward to a great conversation in and learning in this post.<br />
      <br />
      Steve<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      While your WTF is more in proportion to someone who is 6' 7" using the method explained above to determine your lower length limit with the 64* lie angle is going to be of the utmost importance and you may have other body parts that make up some of the difference from your higher than normal WTF. I am a bit reluctant to advise a length since you fall pretty far outside the boundaries for your height and wtf. This is exactly why doing the low length limit fitting will be so important for you.<br />
      <br />
      I was shocked to find I was a completely average 6' 4" individual when I had always assumed due to the fitting charts that I had short arms.<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Interesting topic. I am a little over 6'4", call it 6'5" in my shoes and I have a 39.5" WTF measurement (bottom side of my knobby wrist bone). What would you suggest on starting length with my SW/GW? I saw you other post on SL irons and I switched over to those this year, playing them at 37" (to top of grip). I love the 9, pw, gw, sw, as I have seen my HC drop like a rock, but honestly, the 8, 7, 6 irons feel a little short. I am thinking about going to 37.5" or 38" across the board. I am curious based on your chart what you think a starting point would be..<br />
      <br />
      Also regarding a driver, I play a 44.5" driver, mostly because when I got fitted my center of club face stakes improved over the 45.5" driver and we settled at 44.5" as we worked our way down. I hit is mostly straight (sometimes a baby draw), but mostly with a power fade. Unfortunately my miss every once in awhile is that weak fade. Now you have me thinking again of going to or over 46"!
      Posted:
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    • XJaredXJared Members  526WRX Points: 61Posts: 526 Golden Tee
      Joined:  #204
      Great topic. A lot of this I've thought about since I started playing. I'm an athletic 6'5" with a 39" WTF, and have always struggled with toe hits on the short irons and wedges, to the point that my 58* has a grass stain off the grooves.<br />
      I also mentally set up much closer to an iron with an upright lie angle. I'm subconsciously trying to match the upright lie angle, which I've been incorrectly fit for in the past. One fitting was only +0.5" long, but 4* up, imagine that with my build.<br />
      My thought process on this, was always that if you have a picture of a golfer, then increase the size by any proportional amount, the lie angle doesn't change, only the length of the shaft. So if length is fit to an athletic posture, none of us should be playing anything much over 1* or 2* over standard lie at most.<br />
      Only an average height person without a frame of reference could think that a very upright lie angle is a good answer to get a tall player into a close to standard length club set.<br />
      Regards,<br />
      Jared
      Posted:
    • forefrazierforefrazier Members  376WRX Points: 69Posts: 376 Greens
      Joined:  #205
      Maybe us tall golfers need their own Classifieds section to buy/sell/trade stuff that we can try out <img src='http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
      Posted:
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    • forefrazierforefrazier Members  376WRX Points: 69Posts: 376 Greens
      Joined:  #206
      I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?
      Posted:
      Ping G400 LST 10
      Callaway Epic Flash 15*
      Srixon zU45 20, 23
      Srixon z745 5-9i
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      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 51*
      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 56*
      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 60*
      TM Spider Mini
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    • GolfrnutGolfrnut Members  7645WRX Points: 458Posts: 7,645 Titanium Tees
      Joined:  edited Nov 27, 2016 #207
      <br />
      I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).<br />
      <br />
      There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.
      Posted:
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    • forefrazierforefrazier Members  376WRX Points: 69Posts: 376 Greens
      Joined:  #208
      Golfrnut wrote:
      <br />
      <br />
      I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).<br />
      <br />
      There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Thanks Golfrnut...So your first sentence regarding 1 CPM/SW point is for every 1/2" of extra length correct? That is what I have read in the past....
      Posted:
      Ping G400 LST 10
      Callaway Epic Flash 15*
      Srixon zU45 20, 23
      Srixon z745 5-9i
      Srixon z945 PW
      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 51*
      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 56*
      Cleveland RTX-4 Proto 60*
      TM Spider Mini
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    • GolfrnutGolfrnut Members  7645WRX Points: 458Posts: 7,645 Titanium Tees
      Joined:  #209
      <br />
      Golfrnut wrote:
      <br />
      <br />
      I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).<br />
      <br />
      There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Thanks Golfrnut...So your first sentence regarding 1 CPM/SW point is for every 1/2" of extra length correct? That is what I have read in the past....<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      3 SW points per half inch...
      Posted:
      TM M3 440 w/ Speeder Evo II 6.1 TS
      TM M4 13.5 "Small Version"  w/ BB S+ 70
      Taylormade P790 2 UDI w/ DG 105R or M3 19* 5W w/ BB S+ 70
      Taylormade P790 3 Iron w/ DG AMT White R300
      4-PW Nike VR Pro MBs w/ DG AMT White R300
      Callaway MD3 52* & 58* PM grind
      Odyssey MXM 1W
    • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
      Joined:  edited Nov 27, 2016 #210
      kenstl wrote:
      <br />
      Interesting topic. I am a little over 6'4", call it 6'5" in my shoes and I have a 39.5" WTF measurement (bottom side of my knobby wrist bone). What would you suggest on starting length with my SW/GW? I saw you other post on SL irons and I switched over to those this year, playing them at 37" (to top of grip). I love the 9, pw, gw, sw, as I have seen my HC drop like a rock, but honestly, the 8, 7, 6 irons feel a little short. I am thinking about going to 37.5" or 38" across the board. I am curious based on your chart what you think a starting point would be..<br />
      <br />
      Also regarding a driver, I play a 44.5" driver, mostly because when I got fitted my center of club face stakes improved over the 45.5" driver and we settled at 44.5" as we worked our way down. I hit is mostly straight (sometimes a baby draw), but mostly with a power fade. Unfortunately my miss every once in awhile is that weak fade. Now you have me thinking again of going to or over 46"!<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Ken,<br />
      <br />
      The length measurement for someone who is an average 6' 5" is as follows:<br />
      <br />
      Average shoulder height = 62.48"<br />
      <br />
      Average arm length to grip = 27.210"<br />
      <br />
      Shoulder - arm = 35.27" (basically WTF with added hand length)(traditional WTF = 38.91")<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      Shoulder height to ground @ 64* = 69.516"<br />
      <br />
      Shoulder to ground @ 64* (69.516")- WTF (35.27") = 34.246"<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      <br />
      34.246" hand height requires a a club with a length of 38.102" to reach that hand height. This is just a starting point for length only. You may likely need a 1* or 2* more upright club once you check lie angle due to the dynamic move of the swing.<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      As for the driver, I'm not at all surprised a 44.5" driver is producing fades for someone your height. It's pretty much guarenteed. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is getting the head in the correct square orientation at impact. And it will take a longer club to do so directly due to your height.<br />
      <br />
      If you are wishing to stay with single length I'd say 38" is probably a good start. 38.5" may be better. I found the long irons were just too short in the single length build.
      Posted:
      Post edited by Unknown User on
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    • ryborybo Members  2239WRX Points: 133Handicap: +1.6Posts: 2,239 Platinum Tees
      Joined:  edited Nov 27, 2016 #211
      I've been working through the flex issues as of late. My Digiflex is tired!!<br />
      <br />
      <br />
      The butt end of the shaft is the stiffest portion, so adding length via a longer butt section is adding a very strong section. However, the CPM's are reduced as a club gets longer.<br />
      Shaft weight is very important. The i95's have an overall weight that is much lower, swingweight very close to X100's, but feel more head heavy.<br />
      <br />
      I have found these two shafts have very different CPM measurements but play very similar in direction and dispersion in the irons. The sand and lob wedge need more attention to get dialed in. And I'm not where I want to be yet.<br />
      <br />
      As of right now the X100's are showing a lot of promise. Still have to change out the stiff Steelfibers for the X's. I am totally blown away by just how good the 8 iron/X100 combo is.<br />
      <br />
      Wedges are testing my patience at the moment but still have a few more things to try.
      Posted:
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