Transition to Graphite Shafts? Advice needed...

DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
edited Jun 25, 2018 in Classic Golf And Golfers #1
Background: I have arthritis and am feeling the effects of playing the classic clubs (I think). I'm not sure if the pain is from hitting steel shafts or what, but I am thinking of looking for some graphite shafted irons and regripping them with larger, non-tapered grips. Then setting up a condensed set w/ 5 - 7 clubs max.



My question is, in a classic club, what have others looked for and purchased?



I would start with a partial set, just to try it, and pair them with a graphite driver and fairway wood. So maybe 4 clubs, 3, 5, 7, & 9. I don't see that graphite in my PW, SW or Putter would make that much difference.



Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

image/to_become_senile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':to_become_senile:' />



P.S. had thoughts of putting larger grips and shock absorbent inserts in the Ping Eyes I have. Maybe that would work.



P.S.S. I guess I should have said that this will be my "feel bad" set, for when I go out aching. Summers are so short here, I have to take advantage of every opportunity and have to keep 'er moving with arthritis, so....
OGA #1972-2018
Post edited by Unknown User on
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Comments

  • smorgsmorg Tundra Transplant Members Posts: 267 ✭✭
    Dcohenour wrote:


    Background: I have arthritis and am feeling the effects of playing the classic clubs (I think). I'm not sure if the pain is from hitting steel shafts or what, but I am thinking of looking for some graphite shafted irons and regripping them with larger, non-tapered grips. Then setting up a condensed set w/ 5 - 7 clubs max.



    My question is, in a classic club, what have others looked for and purchased?



    I would start with a partial set, just to try it, and pair them with a graphite driver and fairway wood. So maybe 4 clubs, 3, 5, 7, & 9. I don't see that graphite in my PW, SW or Putter would make that much difference.



    Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

    image/to_become_senile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':to_become_senile:' />



    P.S. had thoughts of putting larger grips and shock absorbent inserts in the Ping Eyes I have. Maybe that would work.



    P.S.S. I guess I should have said that this will be my "feel bad" set, for when I go out aching. Summers are so short here, I have to take advantage of every opportunity and have to keep 'er moving with arthritis, so....
    Borderline on "classic/vintage" but you might want to look at Hogan Edge. They could be ordered with Apex graphite shafts. I just sold a set that I had acquired. They were easy swinging irons and easy to hit (but I found didn't offer the feedback/feel of the Apex steel shafts).
    Hogan Edge 1-SW, Apex 3
    Hogan Edge GS 3-PW Apex 3
    Hogan Apex ll, 3-9, Apex 4
    Hogan Speed Slot 1,2,4
    Hogan Rail Putter
  • Fellaheen51Fellaheen51 Go Green MichiganMembers Posts: 4,410 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #3
    Responding with some thoughts D.



    As a starting point, you could try foam inserts and larger grips on a club. See if there is a benefit. I've used 1/2" foam backing rod available at HD inexpensively. Using an 8" piece, push it down the shaft until its wedged in fairly well. Try it on one club, to see if it makes a difference. To be honest, didn't notice any difference when I tried it on some Eye 2's I had around for awhile.



    Grips are all about preference. Arthritic grips are available but have no experience. A grip that may be worth trying are GP CP 2's, two versions that feel the same. They're reduced taper, softer without feeling "squishy" soft. I use the mid-size on irons, there's a jumbo as well. Really like them. But I'm not afflicted like you. Using them strictly for feel preferences. Again, depending on your condition's severity, don't believe grips are going to be a significant L/T solution. Perhaps try one to see if it makes a difference.



    Realistically, moving to graphite shafts is the best solution for joint conditions. Only proven way to realize shock absorption in a shaft. And by extension, pain relief from playing. You didn't mention if you would be reshafting a classic set or looking to acquire irons with graphites already installed. Don't know your game, what you're looking for, what the budget considerations are. Are you wanting to stay with the realm of classic (whatever that definition comprises). For a playing set, maybe need to move away from any blade types towards a more forgiving CB. While not classic in the traditional sense, irons like the Hogan Apex Edge may offer some additional forgiveness (less jarring on mishits). Will occasionally see them offered on the Bay with Apex graphite shafts. Again, they may be beneficial, but difficult to offer any absolutes without trying them.



    If you do your own club work, can shop around for some pulls. Lots of them available online. Perhaps a singular shaft to test. But more likely you'd be acquiring something of a set. And a recommendation if you're going graphite, would advise installing in your PW. Perhaps the SW as well. Both can be quite jarring to the joints given the nature of their use.



    I'd skip the 3 & 5 irons in favor of higher lofted fairway woods or hybrids. While I haven't had to go graphites, the longest iron I have in the bag these days is a 6. Rather hit a 7 or 9 wood rather than muscle a 4 iron (Edit to iron). Inconsistently and significantly shorter.



    My .02. Fire away if you have additional questions or want to discuss further.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    Laissez les bons temps rouler!

    OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,283 ✭✭
    This is definitely in my zip code. image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />



    In test mode, I used a few clubheads from different sets as figurative guinea pigs, usually the 7i or 8i. I tried three or four different graphite shafts to see what worked for me. In my case, I have the problem of being a higher trajectory player to also account for. I eventually selected a shaft, bought a full set of the shafts, plugged them into one of my sets of Golden Rams, and off I went.



    For whatever it may be worth, I went with the Aldila NV105, which is said to be "DG-like" in its characteristics. Which was what I was looking for. image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> I found after playing them for a couple months, subtle aches I the wrists and elbows disappeared. I'd gotten so accustomed to them I didn't even notice their presence, until their disappearance.



    Reshafting with graphite is expensive, compared to picking up any old set from shops or fleabay, but you'll be pain free. image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

    If you can do your own club work, or have a friend to help you with it, the cost is easier to take.



    A downside is it can limit your iron set options. image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
    3w: Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
    1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
    2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
    SW: Ram Tour Grind Feel Matched 58*, DGS
    Putter: Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
    (Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
    Shoes by True Linkswear
  • scomac2002scomac2002 Inside the Starters' Hut Members Posts: 5,518 ✭✭
    For me the big advantage with graphite is that the clubs are lighter. They will take a while to get used to, but they do help with reduced inertia pulling on your back when you're sore. The fact that they are lighter may lead to you wanting to overswing which is a big negative with a bad back, but if you can control that impulse you will appreciate the lesser load.



    There are definitely Hogans out there with graphite shafts from the 90's. You will find some Pings as well. Better to find a set already equipped than to do a reshaft as it will be a cheaper option especially if you can find a set missing one or two that would work well in a part set configuration.



    As far as woods, I was following a couple of Stan Thompson laminate woods (D, 3W) that had Aldila HM 55 shafts in them and they would be a good alternative. There should be the odd Eye 2 or Zing with graphite shaft if you're patient.



    I agree with you on the wedges and putter that there isn't much incentive to go with graphite there never mind a complete lack of choice unless you find them as part of a full set. I've been toying with the idea of a graphite shafted SW for my modern set, but I have yet to get one and that's only for consistency sake on full swings.



    AS I've mentioned before, I'm not even playing this year due to back trouble, so I can sympathize with your situation. I know that in my own situation the vintage stuff isn't going to even get a look until I can play without incident with modern graphite shafted clubs because of the advantages of weight and launch that they bring.
    Your problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent!
    _____________________________________

    TM RBZ Black 12°
    Cobra Baffler Rail F 15.5°/20°
    TM '09 Rescue 25°
    TM Burner Plus 6-AW
    TM Z Spin 56°
    Never Compromise NCX RAY tau
  • JagpilotohioJagpilotohio 45+ inch drivers are evil. Columbus, OHMembers Posts: 7,224 ✭✭
    Dcohenour wrote:


    Background: I have arthritis and am feeling the effects of playing the classic clubs (I think). I'm not sure if the pain is from hitting steel shafts or what, but I am thinking of looking for some graphite shafted irons and regripping them with larger, non-tapered grips. Then setting up a condensed set w/ 5 - 7 clubs max.



    My question is, in a classic club, what have others looked for and purchased?



    I would start with a partial set, just to try it, and pair them with a graphite driver and fairway wood. So maybe 4 clubs, 3, 5, 7, & 9. I don't see that graphite in my PW, SW or Putter would make that much difference.



    Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

    image/to_become_senile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':to_become_senile:' />



    P.S. had thoughts of putting larger grips and shock absorbent inserts in the Ping Eyes I have. Maybe that would work.



    P.S.S. I guess I should have said that this will be my "feel bad" set, for when I go out aching. Summers are so short here, I have to take advantage of every opportunity and have to keep 'er moving with arthritis, so....




    How about a full set of these in graphite? Classic look but slightly perimeter weighted and no upcharge for graphite. Very attractive I think.

    Excellent deal for $700.



    https://benhogangolf.com/products/ft-worth-black-irons
    9.5* Cobra LTD, Old school Grafalloy Blue, 43.5"
    14* Cally 815 alpha fuji 665 X 42"
    16* Cally 815 alpha fuji 665 X, 41.5" (set to 17*)
    19* Titleist 816 H2 fuji 8.8X TS 40.0"
    4-7 2016 Hogan PTx, KBS Tour V, 120X.  
    Ping i210 8 & 9 Proto 125 F5 hardstepped 1x.
    Ping glide 2 46-12, 50-12, 54-14 (at 55) stealth, Vokey SM6 60M (61). Wedges Recoil Proto 125 F5
    33.5" Ghost spider slant neck.
    Srixon Z-star XV
    Jones Trouper Bag
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭


    How about a full set of these in graphite? Classic look but slightly perimeter weighted and no upcharge for graphite. Very attractive I think.

    Excellent deal for $700.



    https://benhogangolf...rth-black-irons


    Thanks, but that is way outside of my budget... I was thinking about a vintage set of cavity back irons with graphite shafts. Like the Taylormade Burner LCG irons with a Bubbleshaft for example....
    OGA #1972-2018
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    scomac2002 wrote:


    AS I've mentioned before, I'm not even playing this year due to back trouble, so I can sympathize with your situation. I know that in my own situation the vintage stuff isn't going to even get a look until I can play without incident with modern graphite shafted clubs because of the advantages of weight and launch that they bring.
    I feel bad that you are not able to play... Sound advice. Thanks.
    OGA #1972-2018
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #9


    Responding with some thoughts D.

    <snip>

    My .02. Fire away if you have additional questions or want to discuss further.




    Good thoughts. I already have a TM Burner driver and a TM 580 DX I found at the local thrift for drivers. Also have a GBB, a +4, +5, a 7W, & a 9W, all graphite shafts, all Callaway Big Bertha or Hawkeye. For the irons I was planning to go after a set of classic cavity back in graphite, and then experiment with mix & matching clubs until I arrive at an abbreviated set. Gotta think on the PW - SW and shafts. Makes sense tho. Since I want to carry, and like to carry unless playing 18, weight is a factor.



    Am I the only one who finds pushing a cart to be more work / more painful that just carrying the bag? I used my push cart twice this weekend and it kicked my butt. Felt better after carrying the previous weekend...go figure.



    I'd like to add the foam to a classic iron or two, and test. I have a 5I & 7I to try that with. They are orphans.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    OGA #1972-2018
  • hnryclayhnryclay Members Posts: 238 ✭✭
    I hate pushing a cart compared to carrying a light well made bag. I use my Jones Original for most rounds, and it is much easier on my body than a cart. Especially in the summer, it feels like the grass just grabs the wheels.
  • scomac2002scomac2002 Inside the Starters' Hut Members Posts: 5,518 ✭✭
    I know what you're talking about pushing a three wheeled cart. We have a couple of those that we use with full size cart bags and they're a workout.



    I started out carrying last year for men's league using only 8 clubs, but soon pressed into service an old Bag Boy 330 that I had kicking around. That two wheeled pull cart with a Callaway Hyper Lite 3.0 bag slung on it with 8-10 clubs was just perfect for 9 hole rounds. I've got two of those Hyper Lite stand bags and they're my ideal golf bag! I've had up to 13 in the four-way model and it worked fine. Much lighter to lug around loading and unloading out of the car too! Out of the various options that I have this combo is the least effort to use.
    Your problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent!
    _____________________________________

    TM RBZ Black 12°
    Cobra Baffler Rail F 15.5°/20°
    TM '09 Rescue 25°
    TM Burner Plus 6-AW
    TM Z Spin 56°
    Never Compromise NCX RAY tau
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,283 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #12
    Dcohenour wrote:



    How about a full set of these in graphite? Classic look but slightly perimeter weighted and no upcharge for graphite. Very attractive I think.

    Excellent deal for $700.



    https://benhogangolf...rth-black-irons


    Thanks, but that is way outside of my budget... I was thinking about a vintage set of cavity back irons with graphite shafts. Like the Taylormade Burner LCG irons with a Bubbleshaft for example....






    There's a set of Ti Bubble 2 irons at Global Golf for $149. Stiff flex, FWIW



    And, a set of Burner LCG, one each regular and stiff, Ti Bubble shafts, for less than half the above, again at Global Golf.



    Run, don't walk! image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
    3w: Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
    1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
    2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
    SW: Ram Tour Grind Feel Matched 58*, DGS
    Putter: Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
    (Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
    Shoes by True Linkswear
  • birly-shirlybirly-shirly Members Posts: 3,247 ✭✭
    They don’t typically get a lot of love around this part of the forum, but in the OPs position, I think I would be scouring CL and eBay for old sets of Callaways
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,283 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #14
    Re: the push cart question



    I started using a push cart due to having discomfort in only my right shoulder. Thought it was due to how I was sleeping, but it diminished once golf season was over. Ah yes. I had the dual strap system, but lifted my bag with my right arm to my right shoulder each time, it was this motion that was causing my issues.



    Got a push cart and shoulder was fine.



    I've since moved to cart bags, I'd not like to try carrying one for a full round. LOL



    Unrelated comment... After DC mentioned thinking about Ti Bubble shafts, I've been looking all around the intarwebs for 90s irons with graphite. Some kind of fun stuff out there. LOL
    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
    3w: Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
    1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
    2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
    SW: Ram Tour Grind Feel Matched 58*, DGS
    Putter: Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
    (Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
    Shoes by True Linkswear
  • DavewnDavewn West Des Moines, IAMembers Posts: 597 ✭✭
    I bought a set of Adams A7 (the yellow ones, not the oversized) graphites last year for similar reasons and they have been excellent for me. I shot my lowest round in about 20 years this morning while missing 3 very short birdie putts . They feature cast stainless cavity back heads that are a bit loud looking in the bag, but traditional looking at address with quite moderate offset and a thin top line and sole. The stock UST shaft is very good and not crazy light at 85ish grams. They might not be a fit if you love long irons as the 3 and 4 in the set are the vaunted (and readily saleable) A7 PNT hybrids. While I didn't get along with the hybrids, the hollow 5 iron "transition club" has been money for me as have the 6 -GW. At this point, I'm sticking with my Dynamic shafted sand and lob wedges as they really aren't full swing clubs for me anymore. Adams made some really good sticks back in the day, too bad TaylorMade killed them off a few years back.



    One caveat: while I used to be able to hop between various sets fairly seamlessly when I played my modern steel shafted irons (whether modern or classic), I wasn't really able to adjust anymore once I switched to the graphites. Steel shafted irons just feel heavy and dead by comparison. I don't miss the aches and pains though and sticking with one set probably isn't hurting my ball striking consistency.
    Callaway RAZR Fit 10.5* Aldila RIP'd NV 60 S
    Ping G5 13.5* Aerotech Powercoil 50 S
    TaylorMade 200 Steel 4 Wood TM Lite R-80
    Orlimar Black Ti 22* 4 Hybrid Litespeed R
    Adams A7 5-GW UST Proforce 85 R
    Golfsmith/Spalding Cash-In SW 55/12 Cleveland Action Lite S
    Cleveland TA 900 60* Nicklaus Driveshaft R
    Slotline Inertial 35" 
  • DavewnDavewn West Des Moines, IAMembers Posts: 597 ✭✭
    Dcohenour wrote:



    How about a full set of these in graphite? Classic look but slightly perimeter weighted and no upcharge for graphite. Very attractive I think.

    Excellent deal for $700.



    https://benhogangolf...rth-black-irons


    Thanks, but that is way outside of my budget... I was thinking about a vintage set of cavity back irons with graphite shafts. Like the Taylormade Burner LCG irons with a Bubbleshaft for example....




    The only problem with Bubble shafted clubs is the incredibly wide diameter of the bubble butt image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> It really limits your choice of grips as the original Bubble shaft has something like an .820 diameter shaft butt and most standard grips won't slip on without a special installation tool. If you're lucky enough to get normal grips on without splitting them, they will end up feeling quite thick.
    Callaway RAZR Fit 10.5* Aldila RIP'd NV 60 S
    Ping G5 13.5* Aerotech Powercoil 50 S
    TaylorMade 200 Steel 4 Wood TM Lite R-80
    Orlimar Black Ti 22* 4 Hybrid Litespeed R
    Adams A7 5-GW UST Proforce 85 R
    Golfsmith/Spalding Cash-In SW 55/12 Cleveland Action Lite S
    Cleveland TA 900 60* Nicklaus Driveshaft R
    Slotline Inertial 35" 
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    Davewn wrote:


    The only problem with Bubble shafted clubs is the incredibly wide diameter of the bubble butt image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
    So you're saying they will make me look thin then?...
    OGA #1972-2018
  • kaboboomkaboboom Members Posts: 272
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #18
    Years ago, I re-shafted a set of Haig Ultras with some Titleist graphite shafts for my later years...still have them for the wife, but I'm not quite done with steel yet. But they are light, easier on the hands, etc. Had to bore them to receive parallel shafts, but that was pretty easy. I've considered doing the same with a set of early Spaldings...those shafts are super stiff...but I'd probably buy a cheap set of semi-modern clubs, and toss the cavity back heads. Occasionally see Kunnan clubs cheap...those were supposed to have decent shafts...maybe some day soon...



    Should add someone here said I should bevel the inside of the hosels or the metal edge could abrade the graphite shafts
  • TimVTimV Members Posts: 1,484 ✭✭
    OP - You mentioned trying inserts in early Pings. I wouldn't bother as those shafts are so stout I doubt you'd feel a difference. I do think that bigger grips help some. They seem to be helping me. I play modern clubs with graphite shafts (Ping G10's) during the peak season here and vintage steel shafted the rest of the year. You may want to go down a flex in vintage steel and see if that relieves any pain. If you try going graphite in a vintage club I suggest looking for something with fairly low torque numbers. Going with something originally graphite shafted in a "classic" club as you suggested might be the easiest way. As stated the downfall on the TM Burner Bubbles is if you need to regrip. Callaway S2H2 in graphite shafted might not be a bad option as mentioned earlier and are a very 'blade looking' for a CB iron.
    All Forged, all the time.
    The Sets that see regular playing time...
    67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
    71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
    95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
    2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.
  • DavewnDavewn West Des Moines, IAMembers Posts: 597 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #20
    kaboboom wrote:


    Years ago, I re-shafted a set of Haig Ultras with some Titleist graphite shafts for my later years...still have them for the wife, but I'm not quite done with steel yet. But they are light, easier on the hands, etc. Had to bore them to receive parallel shafts, but that was pretty easy. I've considered doing the same with a set of early Spaldings...those shafts are super stiff...but I'd probably buy a cheap set of semi-modern clubs, and toss the cavity back heads. Occasionally see Kunnan clubs cheap...those were supposed to have decent shafts...maybe some day soon...



    Should add someone here said I should bevel the inside of the hosels or the metal edge could abrade the graphite shafts






    Definitely want to countersink the hosel and provide an epoxy cushion for the shaft- Golfworks sells a 20* countersink bit for about $30 and, coincidentally, they have a shipping special starting today with free shipping for orders over $60, $1.99 for under. I was toying with the idea of countersinking the heads of my old Merit Fusions and this would seem to be a good time to put a shopping list together. Another option that many OEMs use is collared ferrules. The big no no is having the graphite shaft banging against the sharp inside rim of the hosel- the shaft will eventually fail.
    Callaway RAZR Fit 10.5* Aldila RIP'd NV 60 S
    Ping G5 13.5* Aerotech Powercoil 50 S
    TaylorMade 200 Steel 4 Wood TM Lite R-80
    Orlimar Black Ti 22* 4 Hybrid Litespeed R
    Adams A7 5-GW UST Proforce 85 R
    Golfsmith/Spalding Cash-In SW 55/12 Cleveland Action Lite S
    Cleveland TA 900 60* Nicklaus Driveshaft R
    Slotline Inertial 35" 
  • scomac2002scomac2002 Inside the Starters' Hut Members Posts: 5,518 ✭✭
    Someone mentioned Titleist and that's a good choice as well. A buddy of mine bought a set of 981 DCI irons with the proprietary Titleist Ultra lite shaft similar to what was used in the 975 woods line. I think they are roughly the same vintage. At any rate, they are very nice CB irons that are quite blade like with less offset and thinner soles and toplines. Based on my buddy's experience I would rate them very good players. He is even playing down to the 4i coming from newer chunkier irons with hybrids right up to the 6!
    Your problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent!
    _____________________________________

    TM RBZ Black 12°
    Cobra Baffler Rail F 15.5°/20°
    TM '09 Rescue 25°
    TM Burner Plus 6-AW
    TM Z Spin 56°
    Never Compromise NCX RAY tau
  • raggal62raggal62 Members Posts: 452 ✭✭
    For golfers with arthritis or other joint issues, the wedges are probably the most important clubs to have graphite shafts.



    Think about it :



    1) Steeper angle of decent = deeper divots = added shock values.



    2) The majority of golfers hit full shots with their wedges sometime during a round.



    3) Wet or hard packed sand will add resistance in bunker play.



    With the exception of the putter, I would suggest graphite in every club.
  • p3gap3ga Members Posts: 647 ✭✭
    Couple of things that resonate: 1) A desire to go graphite; 2) A minimalist set-up.



    I'm right there with you; in my case I started with a duplicate set of my Srixon Z Stars, reshafting them myself with Graphite Design iron shafts from Maltby. (I did try the uber expensive Recoils & others, finding that with my 55 year-old modest swing speed & how l load the shaft, there wasn't much difference between the $15 and $40 shafts, YMMV).



    I will alternate between 5-7-9 and 6-8-P when I carry my 8 club minimalist set.



    If I didn't have a second set to start with, I'd have Maltby build a set of their forged irons with graphite shafts & either Avon, Lamkin Z5, or GP CP2 grips. Should be out the door for at/around $350 (5-P). Forged goodness & graphite shock absorption, tough to beat.





    Hope this helps.
    Phil

    I saw Brandel Chamblee drinkin' a piña colada at Trader Vic's
    His hair was perfect

    - Warren Zevon, Werewolves of London



    All the clubs I've ever owned.
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    edited Jun 25, 2018 #24
    So.... I pulled the trigger on these today:



    Used TaylorMade Burner LCG Iron Set

    3-PW Iron Set Men Right Hand

    Shaft: TaylorMade Bubble 2 Graphite Regular Flex

    Condition: Very Good

    $80



    Still in the last century with the irons. I can try different combinations with one or two woods or "woods". I thing I'm headed for a franken-set until my joints feel well enough to chance a round with all vintage.



    But, if the "tink" gets too annoying my PB Citation or Ping driver might find their way back into the bag...



    (I just know I'm going to hate myself in the morning...)



    And I'm hoping that the end result of this latest experiment will be a 50 / 50 split between vintage rounds and a round with a mixed bag.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    OGA #1972-2018
  • KirasdadKirasdad Kirasdad Members Posts: 742 ✭✭
    edited Jun 27, 2018 #25
    I agree on the wedges. I think it’s difficult to have graphite irons and steel wedges. The feel is completely different and the wedges, as we all know, are the scoring clubs. I think if you’re going to go graphite...then go all the way with it. You’ll be happier in the long run. I bought a couple of SCOR wedges from Tim (teevons). They are forged blades, but very playable, have a lovely feel and their graphite shafts seem quite good. They are not expensive on the bay either.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    Current bag:
    Callaway BB 43.75” 10 degrees (actual 11 degree loft)
    PING G10 4 wood 17 degrees
    Sonatec 20 deg. hybrid
    PVG component 5-PW Apollo stepless steel
    Ram Watson SW
    Acushnet Bullseye putter


  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    Kirasdad wrote:


    I agree on the wedges. I think it’s difficult to have graphite irons and steel wedges. The feel is completely different and the wedges are, as well all know, the scoring clubs. I think if you’re going to go graphite...then go all the way with it. You’ll be happier in the long run. I bought a couple of SCOR wedges from Tim (teevons). They are forged blades, but very playable, have a lovely feel and their graphite shafts seem quite good. They are not expensive on the bay either.




    I've considered those points about wedges. The set I ordered yesterday has a PW, so all I would need is a SW for now. Probably have to order one.



    Do you know what wedgeflex means?



    I might try the vibration dampening inserts and oversize grips first in an existing wedge, b4 I buy something new. That way I could still retain a classic club in the bag.
    OGA #1972-2018
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    Thanks to all for the advice / comments. I appreciate the help, concern, and suggestions. :-)
    OGA #1972-2018
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    Searched a local retail outlet for wedges with graphite shafts, & came up empty.



    Did find a Diawa driver with a graphite shaft. Looks like the head is laminated painted black. Has an "A" flex graphite shaft, which if it is the same as senior flex it might be perfect for me. So I would have 2 choices in driver with a graphite shaft to stay reasonably vintage. If I could fine a 3w & 4 or 5w Diawa that would be sweet.



    Came up with a Northwestern Thunder-Stix driver too. Very unique. So the NW set now has 4 clubs; D, 3I, PW, & putter. Just need one more club - maybe a 7I. Pics tomorrow.
    OGA #1972-2018
  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,854 ✭✭
    edited Jun 27, 2018 #29
    Davewn wrote:


    I bought a set of Adams A7 (the yellow ones, not the oversized) graphites last year for similar reasons and they have been excellent for me. I shot my lowest round in about 20 years this morning while missing 3 very short birdie putts . They feature cast stainless cavity back heads that are a bit loud looking in the bag, but traditional looking at address with quite moderate offset and a thin top line and sole. The stock UST shaft is very good and not crazy light at 85ish grams. They might not be a fit if you love long irons as the 3 and 4 in the set are the vaunted (and readily saleable) A7 PNT hybrids. While I didn't get along with the hybrids, the hollow 5 iron "transition club" has been money for me as have the 6 -GW. At this point, I'm sticking with my Dynamic shafted sand and lob wedges as they really aren't full swing clubs for me anymore. Adams made some really good sticks back in the day, too bad TaylorMade killed them off a few years back.



    One caveat: while I used to be able to hop between various sets fairly seamlessly when I played my modern steel shafted irons (whether modern or classic), I wasn't really able to adjust anymore once I switched to the graphites. Steel shafted irons just feel heavy and dead by comparison. I don't miss the aches and pains though and sticking with one set probably isn't hurting my ball striking consistency.




    Adams A-7 is one of the best design for the average golfers. I have a set in light weight steel P-5 and graphite in the 3-4 hybrids.

    Once I learn to sole the hybrids properly, they are great. My set have the hybrids length as the replaced 3-4 irons so the distance is closer to the 3-4 irons with higher trajectory.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,854 ✭✭
    For most the golfers, they transition into graphite shaft from the long end first. 2,3,4 irons then maybe 5, 6 7 later. A big portion of them will never go back to the steel shaft no matter what, because of aging, lost of distance and injury..........
  • DcohenourDcohenour Members Posts: 600 ✭✭
    wkuo3 wrote:


    For most the golfers, they transition into graphite shaft from the long end first. 2,3,4 irons then maybe 5, 6 7 later. A big portion of them will never go back to the steel shaft no matter what, because of aging, lost of distance and injury..........
    I can relate. Problem is, I absolutely love a few of the vintage blades and woods. I can't really afford the true classics, so most all of mine are garden variety persimmon & laminated woods, and I try to find blades that are as pristine as possible. Going graphite is more of a concession than anything else.



    For instance, three weeks ago I tried to start a gas powered string trimmer unsuccessfully. I can STILL feel that in my hand, from pulling on the starter rope. And after the last few weekends, I have noticed it is taking longer to recover, especially in the elbows. So, my first thought to keep on playing is to go graphite with the majority of my rounds, and sprinkle in vintage rounds when it is warm and I feel good. Otherwise, its quit golf, and that just ain't happening.
    OGA #1972-2018
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