Help shaft won't fit

sllabflogsllabflog slamsauceMembers Posts: 40 ✭✭
Building utility 2 iron and graphite shaft won't fit in hosel

shaft .37

hosel .35



What do I do?

Thank you

Comments

  • nikeV10bladenikeV10blade Members Posts: 272
    edited Jul 11, 2018 #2
    Just had it done to mine. My club builder just tapered the tip down to .355 to make fit. It's easier to just sand down on graphite rather then ream hosel. If building yourself, just be slow sanding down the tip. Doesn't need much
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  • RobERobE Members Posts: 169
    You're potentially ruining the shaft by sanding it down.



    It's far easier to ream the hosel to fit the shaft.
  • nikeV10bladenikeV10blade Members Posts: 272
    edited Jul 11, 2018 #4
    RobE wrote:

    You're potentially ruining the shaft by sanding it down.



    It's far easier to ream the hosel to fit the shaft.





    Sanding down .015 of an inch is very minor and Only the tip section of the shaft is needed. Integrity of the shaft is not changed. Many build their utility and driving iron this way.



    You can absolutely ream the hosel if you chose too. Either way will work.
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    Taylormade Jetspeed Tour Issue 3HL 17 Aldila Ripd NV 85 Tour X
    Titleist 716 T-MB 3 iron Kuro Kage Tour Proto 100x
    Titleist 716 AP2 4-9 iron bent 2 up and 1 degree weak Project X 6.5 plus 5 gram lead tape on back of shaft
    Titleist Vokey SM6 46F and 50F bent 2 up and 1 degree weak Project X 6.5 plus 5 gram lead tape on back of shaft
    Titleist Vokey SM6 54S and 58L bent 2.5 up and 1 degree weak Project X 7.0 8 iron shaft tipped 3/8th
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  • SocratesSocrates How can it be so *&#% hard to make a shoulder turn? WinnipegClubWRX Posts: 9,229 ClubWRX
    RobE wrote:

    You're potentially ruining the shaft by sanding it down.



    It's far easier to ream the hosel to fit the shaft.



    Only if you don’t know what you are doing.
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  • nogamejamesnogamejames Members Posts: 1,171 ✭✭
    I have sanded.370 to taper 30+ times and never had one break. I have sanded.350 to taper 2 times and both broke within a few swings. Be very careful and put tape on the shaft equal to the BBGM and slowly sand and measure or test fit. If your club needs a collard ferrule you need to use it so it doesn't stress the shaft as much.
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  • Hack DaddyHack Daddy Members Posts: 696 ✭✭
    Ream it. It will literally take you one minute to do. And you'll never have to worry about the integrity of the tip.



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  • RobERobE Members Posts: 169
    edited Jul 12, 2018 #8
    Socrates wrote:

    RobE wrote:

    You're potentially ruining the shaft by sanding it down.



    It's far easier to ream the hosel to fit the shaft.



    Only if you don’t know what you are doing.




    If you don't have a lathe so as to evenly sand the shaft you don't know what you're doing, IMHO.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,086 ✭✭
    edited Jul 12, 2018 #9
    RobE wrote:


    If you don't have a lathe so as to evenly sand the shaft you don't know what you're doing, IMHO.




    if anyone uses anything (even a lathe) to evenly sand the shaft down to .350 or .355 parallel, then they definitely don't know what they are doing.



    First of all, there is a BIG difference between a .350 parallel tip and a .355 tapered tip, much more than just 0.005". You certainly don't want to take a .370 shaft down to .350 parallel (just my opinion - I don't doubt some have tried and even gotten away with it, but too risky for my blood). But if it's a utility iron, the OP is most likely talking about .355 tapered, not .350 parallel.



    Those that run into problems adding the taper do so because they don't understand the actual nature of the taper. A .355 tapered tip is .370 for most of the insertion depth and then tapers down from .370 to .355 ONLY over the last 1/2" of the tip. It's not an even reduction over the whole tip, it's not even an even uniform taper over the the whole tip. It's just a small amount off of the last 1/2". When done properly it has ZERO impact on the strength or integrity of the tip.



    It's also exactly what every shaft manufacturer who makes .355 tapered shafts does.



    But there is also nothing wrong with reaming either - it is very easy IF you have the right tools for it (and drilling is NOT the same as reaming, nor is a drill the right tool for the job). The only potential downside is that it might hurt the resale value of the head. But the fact is that most don't' have the right tools nor want to wait around to order them. But if anyone does, here is the link.



    https://www.golfwork...amers/p/gw0115/
    Post edited by Unknown User on
  • sllabflogsllabflog slamsauce Members Posts: 40 ✭✭
    Great information guys. Thank you very much. One more question:

    If I ream it and decide I want to go back to the original steal (Dynamic Gold taper tip), will that be a problem?
  • Bad9Bad9 Members Posts: 4,215 ✭✭
    sllabflog wrote:


    Great information guys. Thank you very much. One more question:

    If I ream it and decide I want to go back to the original steal (Dynamic Gold taper tip), will that be a problem?




    If you ream the hosel to .370 you would need to use a shim with .355 shafts in the future. As Howard points out tapering the graphite shaft is easy(there are multiple threads here about it), cheap and safe to do.
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  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,852 ✭✭
    Are you trying to install a .370 into a what ? A tapered .355 or a parallel .350 hosel ?



    If trying to fit in a tapered hodel, it's easily done, but never try to sand down the whole insertion from .370 to .350 for the insertion, not a very good idea even for a low swing speed player. especially not a good idea with golf clubs used for turf interaction ( additional material stress from contacting the turf ).



    If trying to fit into the .355 hosel; measure the tapered section of the tip with a caliper to determine the length of the tapered section. Even better if you have the original shaft for better fit. Tape off the new graphite shaft with the appropriate tip length exposed for sanding, I would start with a 200 grit then eventually to 500-600 grid, hand sand it ( in a rotary motion with sand paper wrapped around the whole tip ) because you will not be able to put back what you taken off - Do it slowly and dry fit often; you want the tip to fit by taking off as little material as possible.



    If the hosel is .350, you'll have to rim out the hosel to .370 for the new shaft. Remember, you can not put back what you taken off.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,086 ✭✭
    wkuo3 wrote:


    I would start with a 200 grit then eventually to 500-600 grid, hand sand it ( in a rotary motion with sand paper wrapped around the whole tip )




    Just my personal opinion, a flat file is a much better tool for the job than sandpaper. Files cut (instead of abraiding the surface) and are much easier to control where the material gets taken off. But even if you do use sandpaper and do it by hand - no real need to get to so fine a grit. 150-200 is plenty fine for the whole job.
  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,852 ✭✭
    edited Jul 12, 2018 #14
    Stuart G. wrote:

    wkuo3 wrote:


    I would start with a 200 grit then eventually to 500-600 grid, hand sand it ( in a rotary motion with sand paper wrapped around the whole tip )




    Just my personal opinion, a flat file is a much better tool for the job than sandpaper. Files cut (instead of abraiding the surface) and are much easier to control where the material gets taken off. But even if you do use sandpaper and do it by hand - no real need to get to so fine a grit. 150-200 is plenty fine for the whole job.




    Certainly, I had used the file and motorized sand belt in the past, since I now only do repair for my own golf equipment and for needy friends, hand crafting is preferred.

    Using file will shorten the processing time but most will not be able to take off an even layer from all around the tip. I had seen some questionable workmanship in the past by the amateurs and the pros alike.

    Yes, I agree you don't need to use finer grit to finish the sanding, but that's my preference.



    Just like I don't like to prepare the tips by sanding off the paint, I rather use a sharp utility knife to score off the clear coat and the paint. It'll take a little more time which is fine because I don't have the work lined up to meet the delivery date.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,086 ✭✭
    wkuo3 wrote:


    Using file will shorten the processing time but most will not be able to take off an even layer from all around the tip.




    Don't know what kind of files your thinking about, but the ones I use don't take off any more material or do the job any faster than 150 grit sand-paper or are any less 'even' than with sand-paper. In fact it's way more easier (for me at least) to control the removal with a file than with sand-paper. But to each their own.
  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,852 ✭✭
    Stuart G. wrote:

    wkuo3 wrote:


    Using file will shorten the processing time but most will not be able to take off an even layer from all around the tip.




    Don't know what kind of files your thinking about, but the ones I use don't take off any more material or do the job any faster than 150 grit sand-paper or are any less 'even' than with sand-paper. In fact it's way more easier (for me at least) to control the removal with a file than with sand-paper. But to each their own.




    Of course, there are many roads to Rome.

    One thing I had learned over time, never say never and there is no set way of doing certain things ( personal preferences, maybe ). Unless there is a rule bonded by everyone under the same umbrella which all should try to stay within the guideline.... even that is being broken down in recent years.

    The game of golf still provide some sort of discipline and order in life.
  • Lord HelmetLord Helmet Members Posts: 8,683 ✭✭
    Get a shaft that you dont have to modify and/or ream the hosel. Plenty out there.
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