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Club fitting for high swing speeds


Hardstepped

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Are there any club fitters out there that hard step iron shafts for fitting or have tipped x-stiff shafts for driver fittings? I’ve done two fittings and they both claim they have whatever I want and warranty what I purchase. I think a lot of people claim they have a high swing speed prior to a fitting and then they really don’t. I’m at a loss here, I have found I basically need to buy a shaft, play with it a few rounds with it and hope that they accept it as store credit in case I need to exchange it.

 

I’m now located in Las Vegas and assumed Club Champion could help since they claimed they can fit whatever but am still awaiting a call back after specifically requesting shafts for an iron fitting. Just so you understand my frustration, in my current iron setup I decided to just purchase 4 different types of shafts and put them in my current iron set, for reference I have project x 7.0, c tour taper x-stiff, dynamic x7 and dynamic tour issue x100 all hard stepped once. The best fit has been the c tour taper but the others still seem somewhat soft. Do I just go with the c tour taper? I’m not a long driving champion but I have a very steep angle of attack, driver swing speed 125-128mph on average, can hit over 130mph easily if I want to step on one and 7 iron between 98-100mph, heavier and stiffer shafts have always helped my ball flight but I want to find the right set of shafts for my irons without just ordering a new set without a fitting. I guess I’m wondering what’s the lowest trajectory, heaviest, stiffest iron shaft available on the market currently and what do the pros do at these similar swing speeds? They never include the tipping or hardstepping customization on what’s in the bag, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

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I'm not sure you're going to find much more than what you've already tried to be honest.

 

I'd say if none of those really work for you or feel soft there is something going on. If Rory can use PX 7.0 And be ok I think you'll be fine with a hardstepped version.

 

I appreciate you might have some speed but if some of the longest on tour i.e. DJ are coping with X100s then there is more at play.

 

Wan

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Agreed what the above said. I've fit a legit long drive guy that uses PX 7.0 hard stepped once with no issues at all. Sadlowsky uses X7s with no issues. There's got to be some other underlying problem here like maybe the SwingWeight is too heavy or something so it makes them feel soft. Or maybe you are feeling the stiffness in different sections of the shaft? I haven't heard of anyone who has swung an X7 ever say they felt soft, and this is from guys who swing 6i at 115-117 mph, like legit LD guys. Some of them even say it feels stout.

 

If you want the stiffest of the stiff, you'd probably be best to order some Rifle 7.0 Blanks, Accra 125s, Steelfiber 125s, or C-Taper X parallels. All of these can be tipped significantly stiffer than any taper tip, and feasibly, you could ONLY tip them to the length for the most part and make them play like absolute rebar. I'm not saying you wouldn't need it, but these would literally be the stiffest shafts you could muster without getting something insanely custom that would be like a 1-off design for you. At least from what I am aware of.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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I’m wondering if Dustin is hard stepping his irons, I’ve heard he tips his driver shaft 2” plus. I doubt that all the tour players are playing stock x100 or 7.0 shafts.

 

I apologize, maybe I wasn’t specific enough, the c tour taper is perfect for me and it took me buying 4 different shafts and playing them in a hodgepodge set to figure it out. I wanted to try different iron heads to hit with the c tour taper shaft hard stepped at a fitting but no one has that as an option, as for a driver head it’s nearly impossible to hit anything with a shaft that is dialed in for me.

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I wouldn’t say the other shafts just feel soft, the dispersion was inconsistent. The KBS I didn’t draw as much and could control much better, hit a cut at will or control the ball flight better. But who wants to buy shafts and drop $4-500 on make your set inconsistent just to find out what works best, and what will I do for a driver or 3 wood when new technology drops? Just buy something and hope it works and adjust my swing to it lol.

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> @phatchrisrules said:

> Agreed what the above said. I've fit a legit long drive guy that uses PX 7.0 hard stepped once with no issues at all. Sadlowsky uses X7s with no issues. There's got to be some other underlying problem here like maybe the SwingWeight is too heavy or something so it makes them feel soft. Or maybe you are feeling the stiffness in different sections of the shaft? I haven't heard of anyone who has swung an X7 ever say they felt soft, and this is from guys who swing 6i at 115-117 mph, like legit LD guys. Some of them even say it feels stout.

>

> If you want the stiffest of the stiff, you'd probably be best to order some Rifle 7.0 Blanks, Accra 125s, Steelfiber 125s, or C-Taper X parallels. All of these can be tipped significantly stiffer than any taper tip, and feasibly, you could ONLY tip them to the length for the most part and make them play like absolute rebar. I'm not saying you wouldn't need it, but these would literally be the stiffest shafts you could muster without getting something insanely custom that would be like a 1-off design for you. At least from what I am aware of.

 

 

I just texted the guy who did my last fitting and put in the shafts for me:

 

X7 is not hardtepped

7.0 was not hard stepped

X100 and C Tour Taper are, I guess it makes sense why the C Tour Taper worked the best followed by the X100 and I’ve not enjoyed the X7. I did this over a year ago and took time away from the game until recently to focus on business. Now I am trying to get dialed back in and even getting to this point to find the right iron shaft was a pain and now if I want to try the X7 hardstepped or 7.0 I have to just buy them and try them? This was a huge progression with many annoying alterations to even get to this point, it took me forever to find a driver shaft as well, there just has to be a better way.

 

 

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As others have said - you are asking about the absolute end of the bell curve. Even when it comes to long drive guys X7's or C Taper X is basically the end of the line for "big hitters".

 

When it comes to what fitters are looking for in their fitting matrix of options you have to realize that what your are requesting is a bit extreme. A hard stepped shaft is only 1/3 flex stiffer ( assuming CPM is correct ) of a standard product and with really good fitters and based on your feedback as a player doing that in the build vs in the fit isn't usually too much of a problem.

 

I worked at a high end fitting studio and in the the almost 5 years I was there I saw maybe 4 players that are as fast as you describe, only 2 people that I can think of were close to 100 mph with a 6 iron and neither one was a tour player - truly just "rippers" at the ball. I would suggest that if your tempo is quicker than a PX 7.0 is the better option, and if you are smoother than the X7 should be the winner.

 

Good luck on your search.

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> @tobybear said:

> As others have said - you are asking about the absolute end of the bell curve. Even when it comes to long drive guys X7's or C Taper X is basically the end of the line for "big hitters".

>

> When it comes to what fitters are looking for in their fitting matrix of options you have to realize that what your are requesting is a bit extreme. A hard stepped shaft is only 1/3 flex stiffer ( assuming CPM is correct ) of a standard product and with really good fitters and based on your feedback as a player doing that in the build vs in the fit isn't usually too much of a problem.

>

> I worked at a high end fitting studio and in the the almost 5 years I was there I saw maybe 4 players that are as fast as you describe, only 2 people that I can think of were close to 100 mph with a 6 iron and neither one was a tour player - truly just "rippers" at the ball. I would suggest that if your tempo is quicker than a PX 7.0 is the better option, and if you are smoother than the X7 should be the winner.

>

> Good luck on your search.

 

Appreciate the input, I realize this is an outlier it’s just frustrating and the fitting place said the exact same thing when I hit there. I’m not a poor player by any means or someone whose trying to hack at the ball to generate a ton of speed, when I was playing consistently I was always between a 2-4 handicap but I’d like to be playing with what fits my swing. If you saw my swing you wouldn’t think I was ripping at the ball, it’s just arc and good power lag, being tall helps but it sucks to have to do all this experimentation to get dialed in when most golfers can go to any fitter and find something tuned exactly to their specs.

 

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Have you looked at the Modus 120 TX? That's what I've been playing the last 2 years. While they feel fairly soft (in a good way), they are actually quite stout and were the optimal shafts for me during a Club Champion fitting. That translated to the real world as well, the shafts have been great. I'm similar to you - very high SS, tall, steep AOA. Pretty tough to fit for, admittedly.

 

I played a season with X7s and hated them. Hated. They felt stiff, but not by any means in a good way. They just didn't feel good even on well struck shots and still generated too much spin for me.

 

With the 120 TX, granted I don't exert 100% effort with my irons, but for example I can lean on a 4i if I need a little extra and the ball does not balloon or do anything that indicates I'm overpowering the shaft. Based on the numbers you provided I don't know why your experience would be wildly different unless it's a feel thing.

 

 

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I am in your same boat. I’ve been to fitters and been told “I’ve got nothing for you” (which means nothing better). I took a guess and built my set with PX 7.0s and woods that are tipped 2” just off of gut feelings. I’m a guy that’s a decent golfer but my profession is Strength and Conditioning (Sport Scientist technically now) and I play amateur golf for fun. I swing my driver on course around 130mph and was out last week messing around and hit as high as 138.2 on Trackman, 6 iron averages around 103 but I can hit 109 with effort.

 

I can spin and launch ANYTHING high. My big goal is to shallow my plane and deliver the club with more forward lean... it’s the only thing that gets my ball down. But I’ll head to TXG in June after checking that they have 7.0, C Taper 130x, and DG X7. This will be the first time I’ve been to a fitter that has all 3 plus they will put my midsize or Jumbo grips on the club. I’m hopeful it will be enlightening but I’ve had terrible fitting experiences in the past.

 

Like others have said, there’s only so much club out there and at our speed it’s up to us to deliver the club better. It’s why long drive guys aren’t on tour (yet), at high speed you really have less room to mess with. The difference in a “good swing” and a “bad swing” for me can be 75feet in height and almost 1,500 rpms in spin. No club will change that.

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> @Dcoop86 said:

> I am in your same boat. I’ve been to fitters and been told “I’ve got nothing for you” (which means nothing better). I took a guess and built my set with PX 7.0s and woods that are tipped 2” just off of gut feelings. I’m a guy that’s a decent golfer but my profession is Strength and Conditioning (Sport Scientist technically now) and I play amateur golf for fun. I swing my driver on course around 130mph and was out last week messing around and hit as high as 138.2 on Trackman, 6 iron averages around 103 but I can hit 109 with effort.

>

> I can spin and launch ANYTHING high. My big goal is to shallow my plane and deliver the club with more forward lean... it’s the only thing that gets my ball down. But I’ll head to TXG in June after checking that they have 7.0, C Taper 130x, and DG X7. This will be the first time I’ve been to a fitter that has all 3 plus they will put my midsize or Jumbo grips on the club. I’m hopeful it will be enlightening but I’ve had terrible fitting experiences in the past.

>

> Like others have said, there’s only so much club out there and at our speed it’s up to us to deliver the club better. It’s why long drive guys aren’t on tour (yet), at high speed you really have less room to mess with. The difference in a “good swing” and a “bad swing” for me can be 75feet in height and almost 1,500 rpms in spin. No club will change that.

 

TXG carries PX 7.0, X7, Modus 120TX, Super Peening Blue X, Shimada Pro, Rifle 7.0, and Modus 130X; all of these will be more than enough to handle a 105mph 6i. KBS is not an option at that facility and by the sounds of it, won't be for quite a while, if at all.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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> @Hardstepped said:

> > @phatchrisrules said:

> > Agreed what the above said. I've fit a legit long drive guy that uses PX 7.0 hard stepped once with no issues at all. Sadlowsky uses X7s with no issues. There's got to be some other underlying problem here like maybe the SwingWeight is too heavy or something so it makes them feel soft. Or maybe you are feeling the stiffness in different sections of the shaft? I haven't heard of anyone who has swung an X7 ever say they felt soft, and this is from guys who swing 6i at 115-117 mph, like legit LD guys. Some of them even say it feels stout.

> >

> > If you want the stiffest of the stiff, you'd probably be best to order some Rifle 7.0 Blanks, Accra 125s, Steelfiber 125s, or C-Taper X parallels. All of these can be tipped significantly stiffer than any taper tip, and feasibly, you could ONLY tip them to the length for the most part and make them play like absolute rebar. I'm not saying you wouldn't need it, but these would literally be the stiffest shafts you could muster without getting something insanely custom that would be like a 1-off design for you. At least from what I am aware of.

>

>

> I just texted the guy who did my last fitting and put in the shafts for me:

>

> X7 is not hardtepped

> 7.0 was not hard stepped

> X100 and C Tour Taper are, I guess it makes sense why the C Tour Taper worked the best followed by the X100 and I’ve not enjoyed the X7. I did this over a year ago and took time away from the game until recently to focus on business. Now I am trying to get dialed back in and even getting to this point to find the right iron shaft was a pain and now if I want to try the X7 hardstepped or 7.0 I have to just buy them and try them? This was a huge progression with many annoying alterations to even get to this point, it took me forever to find a driver shaft as well, there just has to be a better way.

>

>

 

No you shouldn't have to buy them to try them, but as Tobybear said, hardstepping is next to negligible transformation in performance. It is all about feel, it's barely 1/3rd of a flex and that is assuming the CPMs are bang on where they should be. I make recommendations to hard and soft step based on player feedback once we've found the right combination of head and shaft. I would also suggest that if you go for a fitting, you go in with an open mind. Don't automatically assume that the heaviest, stiffest, lowest launching shaft is going to be best for you. One of the latest releases in golf, Sergio, uses Modus 130X. I've also heard that the butt frequency on those is through the roof, something like the equivalent to a Rifle 9.5. It gets overlooked so much because it has a "high launch" profile, yet the EI curve is roughly similar in shape to a Tensei Pro Orange, Whiteboard, or Kuro Kage XD, all of which are known to be absolute low spin bomber driver shafts. For instance, I've had guys that swing equally to you and end up walking out with anything from PX 7.0, Modus 120TX, Modus 120X, Accra Tour i110, X7, Shimada Constants (90g high launch, high spin) and Dynamic Gold 120 X100. It's all about player feel and player loading as these obviously spread the range of weight and launch profiles. There really isn't one shaft that is designed to be the "ultimate" low spin low launch dispersion killer as each person even if they have a hard aggressive move with lots of load will do so differently from someone who has similar parameters. Our swings truly are our own.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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^^ that’s my exact thought. Walk in without any expectations like needing a “low launch” shaft that is “really stiff”. I got along incredibly well with the Synergy Black from Toll which technically shouldn’t be up my alley with the mid launch and softer feel but it was phenomenal. I’m hoping to take the same openness to the irons and see what happens. Great post.

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> @phatchrisrules said:

> > @Hardstepped said:

> > > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > Agreed what the above said. I've fit a legit long drive guy that uses PX 7.0 hard stepped once with no issues at all. Sadlowsky uses X7s with no issues. There's got to be some other underlying problem here like maybe the SwingWeight is too heavy or something so it makes them feel soft. Or maybe you are feeling the stiffness in different sections of the shaft? I haven't heard of anyone who has swung an X7 ever say they felt soft, and this is from guys who swing 6i at 115-117 mph, like legit LD guys. Some of them even say it feels stout.

> > >

> > > If you want the stiffest of the stiff, you'd probably be best to order some Rifle 7.0 Blanks, Accra 125s, Steelfiber 125s, or C-Taper X parallels. All of these can be tipped significantly stiffer than any taper tip, and feasibly, you could ONLY tip them to the length for the most part and make them play like absolute rebar. I'm not saying you wouldn't need it, but these would literally be the stiffest shafts you could muster without getting something insanely custom that would be like a 1-off design for you. At least from what I am aware of.

> >

> >

> > I just texted the guy who did my last fitting and put in the shafts for me:

> >

> > X7 is not hardtepped

> > 7.0 was not hard stepped

> > X100 and C Tour Taper are, I guess it makes sense why the C Tour Taper worked the best followed by the X100 and I’ve not enjoyed the X7. I did this over a year ago and took time away from the game until recently to focus on business. Now I am trying to get dialed back in and even getting to this point to find the right iron shaft was a pain and now if I want to try the X7 hardstepped or 7.0 I have to just buy them and try them? This was a huge progression with many annoying alterations to even get to this point, it took me forever to find a driver shaft as well, there just has to be a better way.

> >

> >

>

> No you shouldn't have to buy them to try them, but as Tobybear said, hardstepping is next to negligible transformation in performance. It is all about feel, it's barely 1/3rd of a flex and that is assuming the CPMs are bang on where they should be. I make recommendations to hard and soft step based on player feedback once we've found the right combination of head and shaft. I would also suggest that if you go for a fitting, you go in with an open mind. Don't automatically assume that the heaviest, stiffest, lowest launching shaft is going to be best for you. One of the latest releases in golf, Sergio, uses Modus 130X. I've also heard that the butt frequency on those is through the roof, something like the equivalent to a Rifle 9.5. It gets overlooked so much because it has a "high launch" profile, yet the EI curve is roughly similar in shape to a Tensei Pro Orange, Whiteboard, or Kuro Kage XD, all of which are known to be absolute low spin bomber driver shafts. For instance, I've had guys that swing equally to you and end up walking out with anything from PX 7.0, Modus 120TX, Modus 120X, Accra Tour i110, X7, Shimada Constants (90g high launch, high spin) and Dynamic Gold 120 X100. It's all about player feel and player loading as these obviously spread the range of weight and launch profiles. There really isn't one shaft that is designed to be the "ultimate" low spin low launch dispersion killer as each person even if they have a hard aggressive move with lots of load will do so differently from someone who has similar parameters. Our swings truly are our own.

 

 

I realize it is more about feel but my spin was reduced when hard stepping to a point my dispersion was much better, I am scheduled to do a fitting this upcoming week with Club Champion and will come in with an open mind, I saw the Modus 130X but admittedly did not even consider them as an option due to the high launch. But some have implied to adjust my swing or tempo or as if I am doing something wrong, I can get by with any of these shafts and strike the ball extremely well with my irons, I just assumed with technology advances there would be something out there that could help decrease my backspin like I was able to find with my driver shaft (Atmos Black TX 80g tipped 1.5") in my irons. The guy who did my last fitting suggested I try hard stepping twice but I don't want to be hitting a straight board with no feel as I am not swinging for the fences ever with any of my clubs.

 

Thanks for all the input thus far, I will post my findings. Also, what do you think about the New Level irons? Trying to hit some of the Miura CB, New Level CB, Mizuno JPX 919, AP2 and P760 with hopefully the correct shaft.

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> @Hardstepped said:

> > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > @Hardstepped said:

> > > > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > > Agreed what the above said. I've fit a legit long drive guy that uses PX 7.0 hard stepped once with no issues at all. Sadlowsky uses X7s with no issues. There's got to be some other underlying problem here like maybe the SwingWeight is too heavy or something so it makes them feel soft. Or maybe you are feeling the stiffness in different sections of the shaft? I haven't heard of anyone who has swung an X7 ever say they felt soft, and this is from guys who swing 6i at 115-117 mph, like legit LD guys. Some of them even say it feels stout.

> > > >

> > > > If you want the stiffest of the stiff, you'd probably be best to order some Rifle 7.0 Blanks, Accra 125s, Steelfiber 125s, or C-Taper X parallels. All of these can be tipped significantly stiffer than any taper tip, and feasibly, you could ONLY tip them to the length for the most part and make them play like absolute rebar. I'm not saying you wouldn't need it, but these would literally be the stiffest shafts you could muster without getting something insanely custom that would be like a 1-off design for you. At least from what I am aware of.

> > >

> > >

> > > I just texted the guy who did my last fitting and put in the shafts for me:

> > >

> > > X7 is not hardtepped

> > > 7.0 was not hard stepped

> > > X100 and C Tour Taper are, I guess it makes sense why the C Tour Taper worked the best followed by the X100 and I’ve not enjoyed the X7. I did this over a year ago and took time away from the game until recently to focus on business. Now I am trying to get dialed back in and even getting to this point to find the right iron shaft was a pain and now if I want to try the X7 hardstepped or 7.0 I have to just buy them and try them? This was a huge progression with many annoying alterations to even get to this point, it took me forever to find a driver shaft as well, there just has to be a better way.

> > >

> > >

> >

> > No you shouldn't have to buy them to try them, but as Tobybear said, hardstepping is next to negligible transformation in performance. It is all about feel, it's barely 1/3rd of a flex and that is assuming the CPMs are bang on where they should be. I make recommendations to hard and soft step based on player feedback once we've found the right combination of head and shaft. I would also suggest that if you go for a fitting, you go in with an open mind. Don't automatically assume that the heaviest, stiffest, lowest launching shaft is going to be best for you. One of the latest releases in golf, Sergio, uses Modus 130X. I've also heard that the butt frequency on those is through the roof, something like the equivalent to a Rifle 9.5. It gets overlooked so much because it has a "high launch" profile, yet the EI curve is roughly similar in shape to a Tensei Pro Orange, Whiteboard, or Kuro Kage XD, all of which are known to be absolute low spin bomber driver shafts. For instance, I've had guys that swing equally to you and end up walking out with anything from PX 7.0, Modus 120TX, Modus 120X, Accra Tour i110, X7, Shimada Constants (90g high launch, high spin) and Dynamic Gold 120 X100. It's all about player feel and player loading as these obviously spread the range of weight and launch profiles. There really isn't one shaft that is designed to be the "ultimate" low spin low launch dispersion killer as each person even if they have a hard aggressive move with lots of load will do so differently from someone who has similar parameters. Our swings truly are our own.

>

>

> I realize it is more about feel but my spin was reduced when hard stepping to a point my dispersion was much better, I am scheduled to do a fitting this upcoming week with Club Champion and will come in with an open mind, I saw the Modus 130X but admittedly did not even consider them as an option due to the high launch. But some have implied to adjust my swing or tempo or as if I am doing something wrong, I can get by with any of these shafts and strike the ball extremely well with my irons, I just assumed with technology advances there would be something out there that could help decrease my backspin like I was able to find with my driver shaft (Atmos Black TX 80g tipped 1.5") in my irons. The guy who did my last fitting suggested I try hard stepping twice but I don't want to be hitting a straight board with no feel as I am not swinging for the fences ever with any of my clubs.

>

> Thanks for all the input thus far, I will post my findings. Also, what do you think about the New Level irons? Trying to hit some of the Miura CB, New Level CB, Mizuno JPX 919, AP2 and P760 with hopefully the correct shaft.

 

Really like the New Levels, the feel is tremendous. The 1031 has more offset than most on here would like, but it doesn't bother me and it helps get the ball up a bit quicker since my miss is lower on the head. If you like a traditional-looking iron, the 902 CB or 623 MB will be right up your alley. Good luck and definitely try the 130X, you'd probably be surprised.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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> @Moomitch said:

> Just curious, how Is the backspin hurting your dispersion? Your ball would obviously be effected by wind more, but what other issues is the backspin causing?

 

Before all of this I was hitting PX 6.5 for years and I was great all the way up until my 7 iron, and then on any of my longer irons I would balloon the ball flight if there were any wind in my face. When I went to a stiffer shaft it helped with my backspin and my dispersion was much improved. Two separate issues if I did not explain that properly, I apologize in advance I am new to this forum. Obviously, I lot of this can be adjusted from my swing flaws but in general I have always bombed my irons and been a solid ball striker with them, it was frustrating when I saw extreme backspin, specifically with my driver, and my flight was extremely boring and I was losing a ton of distance from a softer shaft. I go in for the fitting Saturday at the very least I find a new set of irons I will enjoy, at this point I am just going to get the JPS 919 tours or AP2's because I have always been partial to Titleist and Mizuno irons unless they change my mind. I hit the P790 and while hitting a 7 iron 215 yards, with juiced lofts, is cool but I just don't see the point.

 

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> @Hardstepped said:

> > @Moomitch said:

> > Just curious, how Is the backspin hurting your dispersion? Your ball would obviously be effected by wind more, but what other issues is the backspin causing?

>

> Before all of this I was hitting PX 6.5 for years and I was great all the way up until my 7 iron, and then on any of my longer irons I would balloon the ball flight if there were any wind in my face. When I went to a stiffer shaft it helped with my backspin and my dispersion was much improved. Two separate issues if I did not explain that properly, I apologize in advance I am new to this forum. Obviously, I lot of this can be adjusted from my swing flaws but in general I have always bombed my irons and been a solid ball striker with them, it was frustrating when I saw extreme backspin, specifically with my driver, and my flight was extremely boring and I was losing a ton of distance from a softer shaft. I go in for the fitting Saturday at the very least I find a new set of irons I will enjoy, at this point I am just going to get the JPS 919 tours or AP2's because I have always been partial to Titleist and Mizuno irons unless they change my mind. I hit the P790 and while hitting a 7 iron 215 yards, with juiced lofts, is cool but I just don't see the point.

>

 

Part of the reason you are hitting it high with a lot of spin is the lofts. It's all well and good to turn your nose up at stronger lofts, but it's also another thing to be annoyed at excess back spin and peak height while endless searching for a miracle shaft. Shafts can only do so much and loft is king when it comes to height and spin. Clubs are designed to hit a ball a certain distance for you; don't get so hung up on the number on the bottom of the club. Trevino famously had a person stand at the yardage he needed to cover and had a second person beside him with a loft/lie gauge. It didn't matter what was stamped on the club, the loft and lie was bent accordingly to hit that number. None of his clubs followed a traditional progression of loft and lie.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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> @phatchrisrules said:

> > @Hardstepped said:

> > > @Moomitch said:

> > > Just curious, how Is the backspin hurting your dispersion? Your ball would obviously be effected by wind more, but what other issues is the backspin causing?

> >

> > Before all of this I was hitting PX 6.5 for years and I was great all the way up until my 7 iron, and then on any of my longer irons I would balloon the ball flight if there were any wind in my face. When I went to a stiffer shaft it helped with my backspin and my dispersion was much improved. Two separate issues if I did not explain that properly, I apologize in advance I am new to this forum. Obviously, I lot of this can be adjusted from my swing flaws but in general I have always bombed my irons and been a solid ball striker with them, it was frustrating when I saw extreme backspin, specifically with my driver, and my flight was extremely boring and I was losing a ton of distance from a softer shaft. I go in for the fitting Saturday at the very least I find a new set of irons I will enjoy, at this point I am just going to get the JPS 919 tours or AP2's because I have always been partial to Titleist and Mizuno irons unless they change my mind. I hit the P790 and while hitting a 7 iron 215 yards, with juiced lofts, is cool but I just don't see the point.

> >

>

> Part of the reason you are hitting it high with a lot of spin is the lofts. It's all well and good to turn your nose up at stronger lofts, but it's also another thing to be annoyed at excess back spin and peak height while endless searching for a miracle shaft. Shafts can only do so much and loft is king when it comes to height and spin. Clubs are designed to hit a ball a certain distance for you; don't get so hung up on the number on the bottom of the club. Trevino famously had a person stand at the yardage he needed to cover and had a second person beside him with a loft/lie gauge. It didn't matter what was stamped on the club, the loft and lie was bent accordingly to hit that number. None of his clubs followed a traditional progression of loft and lie.

 

In all fairness that’s not what I meant, my issue with the PX 6.5’s where that I would hit my 7 iron nearly perfect but when I went with a longer iron there wasn’t a huge gap between clubs, I was getting too much loft and the ball was losing a lot of distance, I would tend to draw the ball as well when I typically hit a cut. Now I’m sure I’m a lot steeper than most but when I dialed in my driver shaft I went from hitting it 290-300 to 320+ and there was more of a gap between my longer irons that seemed to be missing when I went with a hardstepped KBS C Tour Taper, which frequency should be about 7.5 and that’s been nearly perfect for me. I can’t find any info pertaining to what pros do besides Tiger hits X100’s and tips them 1/4”, I’m sure there are other pros who do it as well. Basically I have more backspin on each club then most Bc of my swing speed and my angle of attack, similar to what Brooks Koepka does.

 

This thread was supposed to be about finding a fitter I could go to that would hardstep an iron shaft for me trying a few different heads in the shaft I prefer; also, in seeing if there are any that will tip a drivers or 3 wood shaft for me during a fitting to find the perfect shaft for me. Apparently there aren’t any out there who do this and I have to buy an uncut driver shaft, leave it longer while I hit it untipped, tip it an inch or maybe more to hope that it works the best for me.

 

Are there any threads that show what the pros are doing to their shafts? Dustin Johnson seems to too everything about 2” and uses a lighter shaft and he recently increased the swing weight on his M6, beyond that I am struggling to find in depth detail about other longer hitting tour guys are using and would be very interested, thank you.

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