Scratched hosel when turning ferrule....help please

OK to roast me first - as long as you offer some helpful advice afterwards :)

So I built a nice set of irons over the weekend, 718 AP2 with c taper s+. Did a good job cutting the shafts from raw length, swing weighting, the whole 9 yards...

Well when it was time to turn the ferrules I used sandpaper because acetone alone wasn't getting the job done. I didn't tape off the hosels (i know i know) and ended up scratching some of the hosels a bit. It's not that bad - but it's there if you are looking for it. So my question is this - is there a way to buff or get those marks off of the hosels? The heads are chrome.

Lesson learned here...any help is appreciated.

You could try a small buffing wheel with some light compound on it, you would have to tape the ferrule first, and it would be easy to heat the ferrule up too much.

I see Lee Valley and also on Amazon they sell 3" buffing wheels that can attach to a drill or bench grinder.

Good luck.

Get us a good close up picture.

The white color 3m sanding pad will work, just have patience.

Get some 2000 grit wet sand paper and cut a strip and polish the hosel like you were polishing a shoe with a cloth.

They aren’t that bad, but i would like to touch them up some. Appreciate the suggestions everyone.

From that pic, it appears the ferrules are more scratched up than the hosels. although it may just be a lighting issue. I think Spoonhead hit it on the head: tape off the ferrule, hit the chrome hosel with some buffing compound on a buffing wheel, then finish off the ferrule with very light strokes from an acetone-soaked cloth.

Yes you should have taped the hosel's or started with a ferrule closer to the hosel OD but...

As others have said, using a very fine sanding pad or even steel wool (I stress patience here) in a circular motion around the hosel will take care of 95% of those marks. After that the "blue away"stuff that is often used for removing scorch marks on hosels ( its a buffing compound ) should finish it up.

I would blend it in. I’ve had decent success using sponge sanding blocks. First coarse and then medium/fine. Rubbing around the hosel. I test scratched a hosel up and used the sanding blocks and then used a buffer. I think I was happier with the result before I used the buffer. Nice shine, but it showed every little mark that I didn’t get.

Why hasn’t anyone said to dull the rest of the irons to match?

remember when that used to be the thing.

How do you get the OD specs? Do you measure yourself, or does the manufacturer provide that info? This is the fourth set I have built, all using the same ferrules from the golf works. This is the first set that I have had to really work on the ferrule to get it to fit.

So it sounds like I need to try sanding lightly first and then buff using a compound. I appreciate everybody's insight. I will post some follow up pics once completed.

You'd have to check the OD yourself with some callipers, and then compare then to the specs of the ferrules - most if not all component supplies list the OD Specs for each ferrule design. This makes the turning precess go a lot faster.

If you don't have/want to invest in calipers to measure OD, and they are an OEM head, you can try emailing Juliana at [email protected] explaining what irons you have. She is a super nice lady, knows her Sh*t, and is very quick to respond.

Cell-parts is extremely well respected around here, and are a stock supplier to many of the OEMs. They may cost a little bit more than generic eBay sellers or Golfworks, but trust me, it's worth it. Likely they may have supplied the original ferrules to the OEM and can come up with an exact match. I was ordering some new ones from them a few years ago for a re-shafting project I was doing, and mentioned to her that I needed one ferrule that would match an old set of RBladez Tours so I could replace a broken 8 iron shaft, and she knew exactly what I needed, said that they had supplied TM all the original ferrules for that line. She threw 3 in my order free of charge.