best epoxy for club building?

[Spankapotamus]

Tried thr Gorilla Glue epoxy from Walmart today. Wasn't all that impressed. Said cure time was 5 mins and handling time was 30. At 30 mins I could still turn the shaft, albeit slowly. 70 degrees before anyone asks. 2 hrs and it was solid. Hope my driver doesn't go flying tomorrow!

[Nessism]

[quote name='Spankapotamus' timestamp='1393721367' post='8774332']
Tried thr Gorilla Glue epoxy from Walmart today. Wasn't all that impressed. Said cure time was 5 mins and handling time was 30. At 30 mins I could still turn the shaft, albeit slowly. 70 degrees before anyone asks. 2 hrs and it was solid. Hope my driver doesn't go flying tomorrow!
[/quote]

It's not advised to disturb the epoxy by twisting like that after it's been curing for two hours. You should glue up the club and set it aside and don't touch it. Good luck. Hope my concern is unfounded.

BTW, you can speed cure epoxy by putting a little heat on the hosel. 1 hour at 150F and the epoxy will be near fully cured.

[Spankapotamus]

Sorry, maybe I didn't explain all the way. What happened was I epoxied the shaft and let it cure for 30-45 mins (not exactly sure) and then I put it in the clamp to grip the shaft. I noticed the head slowly twisting but the shaft was still. I immediately took the club out of the vise, reset the club head to the correct orientation, the set it back to cure for another 2 hours. After that, I tried again and the club head didn't move. I won't put any force on it until 24 hrs after.

And to be clear, this is 5 min epoxy. 30 min total cure time per the label. Used at 70 degrees. Just wanted to share my experience so folks don't get the wrong idea about this stuff.

[4Wedges]

[quote name='super20dan' timestamp='1393681037' post='8770692']
and whats bad about golf works epoxy? at least it rated for clubuilding and not from a hard ware store
[/quote]

What are the "ratings" for club building epoxy?

[pencilwhipper]

ill probably get flamed for this, but i use "versa-chem" found in local auto stores like O reilys or autozone. I've been using this stuff since i was a wee little teenager since i didnt have a credit card to buy the "real" stuff online. The Versa-chem i use is the 3500 psi sheer strength in the all black bottle. 2 part liquid, once mixed it is a cream color.... used this on many different iron reshaftings, drivers, woods, etc etc... still has never failed for me.


sorry, forgot to mention its around $7 after taxes. one tube can reshaft a whole iron set. 3-pw and a club or 2.

[pencilwhipper]

[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1393725738' post='8774816']
[quote name='Spankapotamus' timestamp='1393721367' post='8774332']
Tried thr Gorilla Glue epoxy from Walmart today. Wasn't all that impressed. Said cure time was 5 mins and handling time was 30. At 30 mins I could still turn the shaft, albeit slowly. 70 degrees before anyone asks. 2 hrs and it was solid. Hope my driver doesn't go flying tomorrow!
[/quote]

It's not advised to disturb the epoxy by twisting like that after it's been curing for two hours. You should glue up the club and set it aside and don't touch it. Good luck. Hope my concern is unfounded.

BTW, you can speed cure epoxy by putting a little heat on the hosel. 1 hour at 150F and the epoxy will be near fully cured.
[/quote]



actually, i believe the heat willl prolong cure time. putting this stuff in COLD temps will help cure the epoxy faster.

[Arafel]

[quote name='pencilwhipper' timestamp='1393770951' post='8777230']
[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1393725738' post='8774816']
[quote name='Spankapotamus' timestamp='1393721367' post='8774332']
Tried thr Gorilla Glue epoxy from Walmart today. Wasn't all that impressed. Said cure time was 5 mins and handling time was 30. At 30 mins I could still turn the shaft, albeit slowly. 70 degrees before anyone asks. 2 hrs and it was solid. Hope my driver doesn't go flying tomorrow!
[/quote]

It's not advised to disturb the epoxy by twisting like that after it's been curing for two hours. You should glue up the club and set it aside and don't touch it. Good luck. Hope my concern is unfounded.

BTW, you can speed cure epoxy by putting a little heat on the hosel. 1 hour at 150F and the epoxy will be near fully cured.
[/quote]



actually, i believe the heat willl prolong cure time. putting this stuff in COLD temps will help cure the epoxy faster.
[/quote]

I don't think so. The tour vans use heat to speed up cure time.

[Hot Rod 71]

[quote name='High Draw' timestamp='1393641973' post='8768946']
[quote name='Ranchobob' timestamp='1393562581' post='8763034']
FWIW, put me on the Golfworks bandwagon.

I previously used Golfsmith brand, but you "had" to add blackening to it and the Golfworks stuff comes already with it--dries black.

I do use shafting beads ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0043_A_The+GolfWorks+Glass+Shafting+Beads_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks...eads_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]), but it's optional. That tin of them will last most of us a lifetime. You only need a little bit.

Good luck and have fun!
[/quote]

Agreed! Use whatever epoxy you want, but I would also use shafting beads.
[/quote]

I would advise to only use beads if there is some amount of "play" when the shaft is dry fit into the head. Shafting beads are used to make up that space and keep the shaft centered in the head.

Shafting beads can actually weaken the epoxy bond so don't use them unless its absolutely necessary.

[Ranchobob]

[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1393771619' post='8777294']
[quote name='High Draw' timestamp='1393641973' post='8768946']
[quote name='Ranchobob' timestamp='1393562581' post='8763034']
FWIW, put me on the Golfworks bandwagon.

I previously used Golfsmith brand, but you "had" to add blackening to it and the Golfworks stuff comes already with it--dries black.

I do use shafting beads ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0043_A_The+GolfWorks+Glass+Shafting+Beads_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks...eads_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]), but it's optional. That tin of them will last most of us a lifetime. You only need a little bit.

Good luck and have fun!
[/quote]

Agreed! Use whatever epoxy you want, but I would also use shafting beads.
[/quote]

I would advise to only use beads if there is some amount of "play" when the shaft is dry fit into the head. Shafting beads are used to make up that space and keep the shaft centered in the head.

Shafting beads can actually weaken the epoxy bond so don't use them unless its absolutely necessary.
[/quote]

True, true, though I pretty much use them all the time and never had an issue. That said, I've got a pretty light hand with them.

Beads are definitely not one of those "more is better" items.

Thanks for mentioning that. I can see someone doing a 50/50 epoxy/shafting beads.

[LDB II]

I know people have stated that non golf epoxy is fine but these epoxies are not tested for the use. I know sheer strength is what it is but I would recommend only using golf specific stuff. Mitchell sells Dp810 from 3M but it is expensive. The alternative would be Mitchell Pro Fix Quick Cure. It has the same strength as the 20/20 (24hr) but sets in about 30-40 min in 70º temp. It only comes in (2) 4oz bottles but is really good stuff.

[Spankapotamus]

Epoxy is epoxy. It doesn't know if it is golf epoxy or not. As long as it fits the profile needed, it will work, JB Weld or Golfworks brand. Although I do remember all those stories of club heads flying off back in the day before super duper golf specific epoxy was around...

By the way, my driver did not fall apart today. Solid as a rock.

[Ranchobob]

[quote name='Spankapotamus' timestamp='1393812961' post='8783864']
Epoxy is epoxy. It doesn't know if it is golf epoxy or not. As long as it fits the profile needed, it will work, JB Weld or Golfworks brand. Although I do remember all those stories of club heads flying off back in the day before super duper golf specific epoxy was around...

By the way, my driver did not fall apart today. Solid as a rock.
[/quote]

Which is true, but I know I can heat and remove golf-specific epoxy. JB Weld, if it can epoxy cylinder heads, maybe not so much. Never tried it and not inclined to.

I've got 8 clubs curing in the garage. Yeah, I can't hit them until tomorrow, but somehow I'll survive.

[vix02]

[quote name='Nessism' timestamp='1393648772' post='8769648']
My favorite is 3M DP460.
[/quote]

+1....it's expensive but that's all I use

[jonn443]

Thanks for the options guys, I think I'll start off trying the golf works tour set epoxy. Now, since I don't have a epoxy gun, should I use the squeeze bottle type? What version are you guys using...the epoxy gun or the bottle type?

[Hot Rod 71]

[quote name='jonn443' timestamp='1393903088' post='8792391']
Thanks for the options guys, I think I'll start off trying the golf works tour set epoxy. Now, since I don't have a epoxy gun, should I use the squeeze bottle type? What version are you guys using...the epoxy gun or the bottle type?
[/quote]

I use the bottles. Better value compared to the syringe type.

Just cut the tips off of the bottles at the line provided and they will discharge at the same rate. I squeeze the parts side-by-side on a small piece of cardboard so I can be sure I have equal parts before mixing.

I mix with a popsicle stick and leave the stick laying flat in the left over epoxy. I can reference this to see how the epoxy is curing.

[Cochese23]

Prepping is probably more important than the actual epoxy you use to a point. That said, I've been using GolfWorks stuff for as long as I have been building clubs and have never had a problem.

[4Wedges]

[quote name='LDB II' timestamp='1393795048' post='8780112']
I know people have stated that non golf epoxy is fine but these epoxies are not tested for the use. I know sheer strength is what it is but I would recommend only using golf specific stuff. Mitchell sells Dp810 from 3M but it is expensive. The alternative would be Mitchell Pro Fix Quick Cure. It has the same strength as the 20/20 (24hr) but sets in about 30-40 min in 70º temp. It only comes in (2) 4oz bottles but is really good stuff.
[/quote]

What are the tests that are performed for golf use?

[Ripken08]

[attachment=2099399:He10.jpg]

Golfworks actually sells this exact stuff. I use it at my job. Just as good as anything.

[SpeedyPro]

I've been using just any 2-part epoxy, ranging from golfworks/golfsmith golf-specific exposies (quick or max strength) to just whatever available.

For me, 95-ish driver swing speed, there've been no problems for 15 years.

[bigbore56]

I keep the 5 minute, 2 hour, and 6 hour epoxies on the shelf. I have used the JB Weld on heads, and let it cure for a full 24 hours with no problems. Always felt the slower drying epoxies were the strongest. BTW...I launched a head on my Ping G400 Hybrid last week. Hit a ball off the fairway, and that head went at least 80 yards! So even factory epoxies fail. My dealer sent that club back to the factory, as it was only used for about 4 rounds of golf before head came off.

[mogc60]

> @"todd.ashford" said:

> If you're on a budget and need it fast, JB Weld works pretty good but I've never tried to re-heat it and remove a club head once it's on.

JB weld for graphite...JB weld steel mix gray for steel shafts. I have used it on thousands of clubs and never had a failure. 5 bucks at Walmart. Never had an issue saving shafts with a shaft extractor either. It’s not a brittle epoxy, it has flex, which is all these “club making” epoxies are. Brittle epoxy like gorilla glue will fail overtime, crack, creek. Very easy to mix. The gray steel mix, I’ve hit them in 10 minutes before. Never had a failure and never had any issue pulling a graphite shaft. It takes about a skittle size bead of each resin and hardener to do 1 club. Set in 5 minutes. Everytime. I see threads on here all the time about Brampton and these other cool glues failing. I will stick with what’s always worked.