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best epoxy for club building?


jonn443

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Hi guys, funds are getting tight so I was looking to start doing some work myself. I have three shafts I want to install Nike flexloft adapters on to. What is the best yet affordable epoxy to use, golfworks? What are you using?

 

Thanks Guys!!!!

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3m dp810.

Ping G430 Max 10K 9* with GD Tour AD VF 5 stiff untipped

Taylormade Burner Mini 13.5* with GD Tour AD VF 6 stiff untipped 

Ping i530 4-P,U with Fujikura Axiom 125x 

Ping s159 wedges 52s, 56s, 60h with Fujikura Axiom 125x

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2024 Callaway Tour 
Golf Pride Tour Velvet 360 +1/64"
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i use a japanese brand that is used for radio controlled cars
and models. its fast acting and dries in 5 mins.
most builders in japan use this stuff as there is no curing time
other than the initial 5 mins

Epon EF-02D Diamana x17 6s

Epon AF-256 #3 Diamana x12 7s

Epon AF-256 #5 Diamana x12 7s

Epon AF-906 23 Tensei Ck pw hb90

Epon AF-506 #5-aw Tensei AM2Ws

Epon Tour wedge M56 DG spinner

Tad Moore handmade blade 

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Epoxy is a touchy subject for some, some believe you should only use a golf specific epoxy and others believe that is nonsense. Everyone is entitled to do things their own way, so more power to em.

Personally I use Permatex products, generally available in most auto parts stores. For Metal to metal, I use Permatex Multi-Metal 4min - it cures very quickly, is very thick/doesn't sag and as an added bonus has very small particles of metal mixed into it which helps in both centering the shaft and removing a head after it is installed with this epoxy, since the metal particles heat up and sort of spread out the heat to the rest of the epoxy the bond breaks very quick, it is also a 4500psi tensile strength epoxy which is quite substantial. For graphite to metal I use the Permatex 30min high strength clear, I use it mostly because it has a low release temperature that is under 200°F, this ensures any graphite shaft I remove that was installed with it will not need to be "over heated" to break the epoxy bond and possibly also damage the resins that hold the shaft together, it has a 3500psi tensile strength which is also more than sufficient.

I've used lots of different epoxy trying to find the ones I prefer most, which are currently the Permatex products due to ease of availability and they also fit the application I'm using them for. There are a lot of good epoxies out there, you should also remember that 90% of the work getting the best possible bond is proper prep and proper mixing.

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I'm in the UK and the easiest available choice in most outlets is Araldite Standard - either in the twin tube or separate tubes. I get good results - holds well, easy to remove a head when you need to. I mix it well - like a minute - and I wait a full day or more before using the club, plus leave it to dry in the warmest place I can. Should be available in many countries. It's been recommended in other threads and has the right kind of breakdown temperature.

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Golfworks, golfworks, golfworks. Old school 24 hour dry only been using since the 80's never an issue.

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If you're on a budget and need it fast, JB Weld works pretty good but I've never tried to re-heat it and remove a club head once it's on.

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[quote name='johnnythunders' timestamp='1393532587' post='8759790']
Golfworks, golfworks, golfworks. Old school 24 hour dry only been using since the 80's never an issue.
[/quote]

Agree, only 15 yrs for me though with no issues.

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You will get lots of opinions on epoxy, but if you are new to club work please take the time to prep.

Prep the shaft, take a wire brush inside the adapter, then use a q-tip dipped in solvent (rubbing alcohol and acetone work) inside the adapter and on the shaft to make sure they are clean. Then break out the epoxy. After you glue the adapter to the shaft let it cure in a warm place, I use a small hot box.

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I use Brampton 5/10 with Golfsmith shafting beads. I've read where this is a 24 hour epoxy with a fast cure agent. Never had an issue but once you set it you cannot move it again. Brampton website says this is how most failures occur. I also have used the 24hr Golfsmith black stuff with good results.

The Permatex products sound promising though just from ease of getting them at your local auto parts store. I like that.

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FWIW, put me on the Golfworks bandwagon.

I previously used Golfsmith brand, but you "had" to add blackening to it and the Golfworks stuff comes already with it--dries black.

I do use shafting beads (http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0043_A_The+GolfWorks+Glass+Shafting+Beads_A_c2p_E_cs), but it's optional. That tin of them will last most of us a lifetime. You only need a little bit.

Good luck and have fun!

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Golfworks Maximum Strength Tour Set Plus is the best I have ever used. Sets in 30 minutes. Can be hit in 90 minutes. I like buying the 4oz tubes. Keep warm during cure. This epoxy is specifically made for steel and graphite shafts. Some of the other epoxies mentioned are strong but do not have the correct elasticity for Golf clubs.

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[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1393486829' post='8756068']
Epoxy is a touchy subject for some, some believe you should only use a golf specific epoxy and others believe that is nonsense. Everyone is entitled to do things their own way, so more power to em.

Personally I use Permatex products, generally available in most auto parts stores. For Metal to metal, I use Permatex Multi-Metal 4min - it cures very quickly, is very thick/doesn't sag and as an added bonus has very small particles of metal mixed into it which helps in both centering the shaft and removing a head after it is installed with this epoxy, since the metal particles heat up and sort of spread out the heat to the rest of the epoxy the bond breaks very quick, it is also a 4500psi tensile strength epoxy which is quite substantial. For graphite to metal I use the Permatex 30min high strength clear, I use it mostly because it has a low release temperature that is under 200°F, this ensures any graphite shaft I remove that was installed with it will not need to be "over heated" to break the epoxy bond and possibly also damage the resins that hold the shaft together, it has a 3500psi tensile strength which is also more than sufficient.

I've used lots of different epoxy trying to find the ones I prefer most, which are currently the Permatex products due to ease of availability and they also fit the application I'm using them for. There are a lot of good epoxies out there, you should also remember that 90% of the work getting the best possible bond is proper prep and proper mixing.
[/quote]I use the JB Weld products that can be found in hardware stores or Walmart.

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[quote name='Ranchobob' timestamp='1393562581' post='8763034']
FWIW, put me on the Golfworks bandwagon.

I previously used Golfsmith brand, but you "had" to add blackening to it and the Golfworks stuff comes already with it--dries black.

I do use shafting beads ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0043_A_The+GolfWorks+Glass+Shafting+Beads_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks...eads_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]), but it's optional. That tin of them will last most of us a lifetime. You only need a little bit.

Good luck and have fun!
[/quote]

Agreed! Use whatever epoxy you want, but I would also use shafting beads.

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[quote name='High Draw' timestamp='1393641973' post='8768946']
[quote name='Ranchobob' timestamp='1393562581' post='8763034']
FWIW, put me on the Golfworks bandwagon.

I previously used Golfsmith brand, but you "had" to add blackening to it and the Golfworks stuff comes already with it--dries black.

I do use shafting beads ([url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0043_A_The+GolfWorks+Glass+Shafting+Beads_A_c2p_E_cs"]http://www.golfworks...eads_A_c2p_E_cs[/url]), but it's optional. That tin of them will last most of us a lifetime. You only need a little bit.

Good luck and have fun!
[/quote]

Agreed! Use whatever epoxy you want, but I would also use shafting beads.
[/quote]
Also use beads, not too much though. Seems like I've had this last container forever.

Cobra LTDx 10.5* 

Cobra Tec 19* 
Titleist 818 H1   21*
Cobra Forged Tec 2022 Kbs $ taper stiff

Titleist SM8 54*- 58* TT AMT Black s300

Odyssey White Hot OG 7s
Maxfli Tour 2023

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All these people talking about golfsmith and golfworks and gorilla glue....wow.

Mitchell Golf Quick Cure 510...Build a club and take it to the course. Never had a head pop lose with this, easy to use, awesome stuff!

http://www.mitchellgolf.com/1.7oz.-Gun-and-4-510-Quick-Cure-Cartridges.html

More expensive than others listed above, but the 510 and 2020 slow cure stuff is the best on the market. I build more clubs than I can count each year and since switching to this stuff it has never let me down. I never used the gorilla glue, well at least on clubs but it works great for wood projects....

So many people try to become club builders on the cheap.....and some things you cant skimp on.

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[quote name='super20dan' timestamp='1393681037' post='8770692']
and whats bad about golf works epoxy? at least it rated for clubuilding and not from a hard ware store
[/quote]

Did someone disparage Golfworks epoxy?

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