Maltby TS2

[Sparky14]

My TS-1 set just continues to shine. In the last 6 weeks, I've twice had birdie putts on 18 to tie my personal best (and it has been 21+ years since I did that). Made good putts, neither dropped. :neutral:

 

I want to try the TS-2, but my TS-1 4i-6i are just so solid I can't see replacing them.

 

I'm looking at filling out my wedges now. TS-1 set goes through the PW (45* which is 120 yds.. My GW is a 50* BioCell+ that goes 110. Then a 56* Edel - 90 yds. Then a 60* Edel that I cannot hit full with any reliability. I am looking at going 52* and 58* with graphite with hopes of getting 100 and 80 yds with them. Then I can bring back in my M+ 62* for chipping/pitching only.

 

Can't decide if I want to get FGT wedges bent to 52/58, or go with M+ at 52/58. Probably going to do a Pak with the Paderson wedge shafts.

 

 

[Colej]

I’ve got the TC tour 3 and 5 gapping is what I would think it should be right around 30 yards difference between the two.

[Colej]

The FGT heads are fairly large in size. I do like the sole design on them and feel they’re very playable despite their larger size.

[Popeye64]

@ Sparky14 This year shifting to 54 and 58 from 56 and 60 was a great move for me. My GW is 50 so on top of giving me two easier clubs to hit it blended better with my GW. The FGT are a nice looking wedge but I like the options of the M+ heads. Seem to have a loft and sole for anyone.

I think you'll really like the Paderson.

[ReidThompson]

So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

[Popeye64]

> @ReidThompson said:

> So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

 

I have noticed on glue up that not using the collered ferrule leave a ton of play in the head and the shaft. Enough so that you would really need to check specs after building. Using a 370 shaft seats much better than a 355. Using the collered ferrule makes for a very nice tight fit and one that need no turning. So take it they are used no tell how they went together.

[ReidThompson]

Interesting...

 

> @Popeye64 said:

> > @ReidThompson said:

> > So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

>

> I have noticed on glue up that not using the collered ferrule leave a ton of play in the head and the shaft. Enough so that you would really need to check specs after building. Using a 370 shaft seats much better than a 355. Using the collered ferrule makes for a very nice tight fit and one that need no turning. So take it they are used no tell how they went together.

 

 

[Fellaheen51]

> @Popeye64 said:

> > @ReidThompson said:

> > So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

>

> I have noticed on glue up that not using the collered ferrule leave a ton of play in the head and the shaft. Enough so that you would really need to check specs after building.** Using a 370 shaft seats much better than a 355.** Using the collered ferrule makes for a very nice tight fit and one that need no turning. So take it they are used no tell how they went together.

 

@Popeye64. Care to expand on the .370 shafts seat much better than .355 comment. Been playing 73g graphites in my TS-1's this season. But have discovered that I'm not favoring the ULW as it affects dispersion and my quicker tempo. Despite performing what I thought was my due diligence in the evaluation process. Nothing like an extended period of on course usage to provide a true assessment. Contemplating this off-season of going back to steel. Specifically .355 Nippon 950's that I have in another set of irons. A shaft that I match up quite nicely with.

 

What issues may I be facing? Are you referring to the universal bore not allowing a .355 to fully seat? Could it be an issue cleaning out the residue epoxy in the bottom of the universal bore? (Have experience and tools for this process.) Would be using the GW recommended collared ferrule, as currently installed. TIA for your insight and to dissuade me if necessary.

 

[Sparky14]

GW told me that the Maltby universal hosel is .370", with a small (1/4" or 1/8") slant to .355" at the bottom. So unless your shaft is trimmed/carved perfectly to match, there will be an area at the 370 to 355 transition where your shaft is closer to 355. GW says that is close enough to seat well.

 

If you are using a 370 shaft, then it fits right into the 370 section and leaves the little 370-355 section empty.

[Popeye64]

> @Fellaheen51 said:

> > @Popeye64 said:

> > > @ReidThompson said:

> > > So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

> >

> > I have noticed on glue up that not using the collered ferrule leave a ton of play in the head and the shaft. Enough so that you would really need to check specs after building.** Using a 370 shaft seats much better than a 355.** Using the collered ferrule makes for a very nice tight fit and one that need no turning. So take it they are used no tell how they went together.

>

> @Popeye64. Care to expand on the .370 shafts seat much better than .355 comment. Been playing 73g graphites in my TS-1's this season. But have discovered that I'm not favoring the ULW as it affects dispersion and my quicker tempo. Despite performing what I thought was my due diligence in the evaluation process. Nothing like an extended period of on course usage to provide a true assessment. Contemplating this off-season of going back to steel. Specifically .355 Nippon 950's that I have in another set of irons. A shaft that I match up quite nicely with.

>

> What issues may I be facing? Are you referring to the universal bore not allowing a .355 to fully seat? Could it be an issue cleaning out the residue epoxy in the bottom of the universal bore? (Have experience and tools for this process.) Would be using the GW recommended collared ferrule, as currently installed. TIA for your insight and to dissuade me if necessary.

>

 

The universal hosel in the TS series is designed for a collared ferrule. When I first got them I used the designed ferrule and assembled them as i always did. Set the ferrule to depth and then add epoxy to the shaft tip and hosel and assemble. The seat perfectly but as I was playing or testing I was getting bad ferrule creep. The collared ferrules really need to be epoxied in place.

So in using some of the 355 shafts and my go to regular ferrule I was having no issues assembling as I always have. But I did notice with the 355 seated properly in the head there is some play in the head and shaft relationship. The collared ferrule stops this completely. Using a 370 shaft that play is not present.

So.. depending on how they were assembled the head may not be centered properly in the head leading to some of the crazy lie angles a previous poster saw in some used TS clubs. That prompted my response to observations.

Built as intended there are zero setup issues with either shaft. USE A COLLARED FERRULE.

My assembly observations were based on DG Tour 105 S300 355 shafts. 370 shafts go together perfectly without collared ferrules.

[Therty]

Has anyone removed the the metallic stickers from the back of a TS-2 head?

[Popeye64]

^^^^ no but one of my 6 iron heads has a good size dent in it and pulling the badge did cross my mind but I'm sure I would destroy it getting it out. It's just a demo head anyways.

[Therty]

> @Popeye64 said:

> ^^^^ no but one of my 6 iron heads has a good size dent in it and pulling the badge did cross my mind but I'm sure I would destroy it getting it out. It's just a demo head anyways.

 

The badge seems stiff and metallic - I wanted to try and drop a couple grams, and it seemed like removing it would be a good way to do that - I was thinking to hit it with a heat gun and then pry it off with a screw driver....

But I don't know what's underneath and I'm not sure it's even worth the 2 or 3 grams....

 

 

[Popeye64]

> @Therty said:

> > @Popeye64 said:

> > ^^^^ no but one of my 6 iron heads has a good size dent in it and pulling the badge did cross my mind but I'm sure I would destroy it getting it out. It's just a demo head anyways.

>

> The badge seems stiff and metallic - I wanted to try and drop a couple grams, and it seemed like removing it would be a good way to do that - I was thinking to hit it with a heat gun and then pry it off with a screw driver....

> But I don't know what's underneath and I'm not sure it's even worth the 2 or 3 grams....

>

>

 

What are you trying to accomplish, a certain swing weight? I really have come to the conclusion that splitting hairs for a certain swingweight is a waste of time. Maybe I'm not the average guy but after a dozen swings I can swing damn near any combination. On irons those small 2 or 3 gram savings are just a blur to me. 4 grams in a driver head either way can make a big impact to me but that's a far longer lever arm.

What is your goal with those gram savings?

[Popeye64]

If you were really trying to hit a certain build spec I would have them hand pick a head at a goal weight.

[Therty]

> @Popeye64 said:

> > @Therty said:

> > > @Popeye64 said:

> > > ^^^^ no but one of my 6 iron heads has a good size dent in it and pulling the badge did cross my mind but I'm sure I would destroy it getting it out. It's just a demo head anyways.

> >

> > The badge seems stiff and metallic - I wanted to try and drop a couple grams, and it seemed like removing it would be a good way to do that - I was thinking to hit it with a heat gun and then pry it off with a screw driver....

> > But I don't know what's underneath and I'm not sure it's even worth the 2 or 3 grams....

> >

> >

>

> What are you trying to accomplish, a certain swing weight? I really have come to the conclusion that splitting hairs for a certain swingweight is a waste of time. Maybe I'm not the average guy but after a dozen swings I can swing **** near any combination. On irons those small 2 or 3 gram savings are just a blur to me. 4 grams in a driver head either way can make a big impact to me but that's a far longer lever arm.

> What is your goal with those gram savings?

 

I want to go longer and lighter in shaft, as an experiment. I agree I just swing weighted a bunch of clubs and in my current set I cant tell the difference between C7 and D2, so who really cares - I'm just experimenting and was interested. I also thought it might look slick :)

 

Right now I have a DGS300 125g 3iron shaft, but I picked up a Paderson KINETIXX TS-I 88g graphite shaft and I'm going to play it somewhere between 39.75 and 40.5, I havent decided yet - just trying to do my best not to be swinging a hammer, where possible.

[ajgoodal.704]

> @Popeye64 said:

> > @Fellaheen51 said:

> > > @Popeye64 said:

> > > > @ReidThompson said:

> > > > So irons were all going left for me so I knew I had a lie angle issue. They are a 1.5* too upright for me and had pro bend them today. He said he had to bend some 4+* to get them to 1.5* flat to their standard. Some had to be bent very little. Seems like the tolerances can be a little whacky, but as long as they are good now, that's all that matters. I say this to make sure you double check when anybody's irons come in. One little disclosure, I bought them used standard L/L/L, but it doesn't look like half of them have been hit, I can't imagine they were bent after purchase, but who knows.

> > >

> > > I have noticed on glue up that not using the collered ferrule leave a ton of play in the head and the shaft. Enough so that you would really need to check specs after building.** Using a 370 shaft seats much better than a 355.** Using the collered ferrule makes for a very nice tight fit and one that need no turning. So take it they are used no tell how they went together.

> >

> > @Popeye64. Care to expand on the .370 shafts seat much better than .355 comment. Been playing 73g graphites in my TS-1's this season. But have discovered that I'm not favoring the ULW as it affects dispersion and my quicker tempo. Despite performing what I thought was my due diligence in the evaluation process. Nothing like an extended period of on course usage to provide a true assessment. Contemplating this off-season of going back to steel. Specifically .355 Nippon 950's that I have in another set of irons. A shaft that I match up quite nicely with.

> >

> > What issues may I be facing? Are you referring to the universal bore not allowing a .355 to fully seat? Could it be an issue cleaning out the residue epoxy in the bottom of the universal bore? (Have experience and tools for this process.) Would be using the GW recommended collared ferrule, as currently installed. TIA for your insight and to dissuade me if necessary.

> >

>

> The universal hosel in the TS series is designed for a collared ferrule. When I first got them I used the designed ferrule and assembled them as i always did. Set the ferrule to depth and then add epoxy to the shaft tip and hosel and assemble. The seat perfectly but as I was playing or testing I was getting bad ferrule creep. The collared ferrules really need to be epoxied in place.

> So in using some of the 355 shafts and my go to regular ferrule I was having no issues assembling as I always have. But I did notice with the 355 seated properly in the head there is some play in the head and shaft relationship. The collared ferrule stops this completely. Using a 370 shaft that play is not present.

> So.. depending on how they were assembled the head may not be centered properly in the head leading to some of the crazy lie angles a previous poster saw in some used TS clubs. That prompted my response to observations.

> Built as intended there are zero setup issues with either shaft. USE A COLLARED FERRULE.

> My assembly observations were based on DG Tour 105 S300 355 shafts. 370 shafts go together perfectly without collared ferrules.

 

I'm assembling my demo TS1 7 iron tonight and I picked up the collared ferrules this go round. For my TS2s I used the SHIMT to get a snug fit.

[Therty]

If anyone cares, I asked golfworks:

The TS 2 head does have a metallic sticker. The weight of this sticker is 1.5 grams.

[Popeye64]

> @Therty said:

> If anyone cares, I asked golfworks:

> The TS 2 head does have a metallic sticker. The weight of this sticker is 1.5 grams.

 

Well now I'm curious as heck on what's underneath. Are you pulling one or am I?

[Popeye64]

One thing you will find is the port for the cavity filling. Not sure if that's a finished plug or not. I'll pull one in a few minutes

[Therty]

Sound's like you're pulling it - looking forward to the picture!

[Popeye64]

Got side tracked but will tonight

[Popeye64]

Multiple goo ports lie under the badge. So it's a needed thing. I'll glue it back down. The goo inside of the head is fairly soft. You can see the two white circles.

 

[Therty]

Neat! Thanks for the experiment.

[Sparky14]

SPEEDFOAM can be seen!

[Therty]

Right. Maltby TS-2 4-iron bent to 18* just reshafted in a Paderson Kinetixx TS-I 88g X tipped 3/4” playing bang on 40” length. D6/D7.

 

On a tight tree lined course tomorrow, so she should see some whacks. Will See how she goes.

[mustang]

Looking for 5-8 iron TS-2 used if anyone has demo's available..

[Popeye64]

> @Therty said:

> Right. Maltby TS-2 4-iron bent to 18* just reshafted in a Paderson Kinetixx TS-I 88g X tipped 3/4” playing bang on 40” length. D6/D7.

>

> On a tight tree lined course tomorrow, so she should see some whacks. Will See how she goes.

 

How did it go? That sounds like some aggressive tipping.

[Therty]

Its actually great.

 

I tipped the shaft just under the recc. for a 4i, because of the weight of the head (246g) - which is in line with a 4i, not a 2i as Im playing it. I called the golfworks and talked to a tech for a bit, we decided that would be a good course of action.

 

Definitely head heavy (measured at about D7), but I played Rams Hill in Anza borrego and pared the 450yrd par 4 #1 handicap hole with a gorgeous draw to the front of the green. Enough to sell me.

 

Hit it against a buddies P790 udi at the range besides the weight differences its pretty comparable, at about 1/2 the price.

 

Im much happier than the previous dgs300 I had, and the extra length fixed my gapping issue. I’m now pushing it out about 215/220 pushing it just above my 3h, which is where I wanted it to sit. And I love the shaft, very stable.

 

Havent been out to a launch monitor yet to get some average, but the two rounds Ive played have been very positive.

[Popeye64]

> @Therty said:

> Its actually great.

>

> I tipped the shaft just under the recc. for a 4i, because of the weight of the head (246g) - which is in line with a 4i, not a 2i as Im playing it. I called the golfworks and talked to a tech for a bit, we decided that would be a good course of action.

>

> Definitely head heavy (measured at about D7), but I played Rams Hill in Anza borrego and pared the 450yrd par 4 #1 handicap hole with a gorgeous draw to the front of the green. Enough to sell me.

>

> Hit it against a buddies P790 udi at the range besides the weight differences its pretty comparable, at about 1/2 the price.

>

> Im much happier than the previous dgs300 I had, and the extra length fixed my gapping issue. I’m now pushing it out about 215/220 pushing it just above my 3h, which is where I wanted it to sit. And I love the shaft, very stable.

>

> Havent been out to a launch monitor yet to get some average, but the two rounds Ive played have been very positive.

 

Padersons are very underrated. With the run away pricing of today's equipment it still baffles me on why more guys are not building thier own custom gear when its half the price