Classic Heads/Modern Shafts

[tannyhoban]

Seems you have the gist. You can go modern taper shafts and most vintage irons will fit. Once the head are off I always used a drill bit to measure the blind bore. Just insert til it bottoms out hold the bit in your thumb where the hosel ends and then measure the distance from tip of the bit to your thumb.

It's close enough and it isn't rocket science. You'll manage just fine.

[kaboboom]

OK, ok...correction to #1: don't bore to accept parallel...shop only for taper tip shafts. That one was weird for me because, there was a time not that long ago where everything seemed to have converted to parallel.

[NRJyzr]

This may have been mentioned, apologies if a repeat...

The thinking behind the longer hosel insertion and its effect on flex isn't really about how much of the shaft is enclosed by the hosel, it's about how much of the butt section you're leaving in play. The classic line of thought is "the butt section is the stiffest part of the shaft, removing butt section therefore softens the shaft." This is why "bottom of bore to groundline" is the measurement mentioned often.

The more of the butt section left in the shaft, the stiffer it will be. Generalization of course; shaft profiles can/will dictate the exact effect.

That said, it's said the extremely long hosel and bore thru of the 975D was an exception, it was something like 4" insertion depth.

It's my personal opinion the longer hosels of older irons were due to the adhesives of the time. Modern epoxies are considerably more effective than the adhesives of 80 years ago, hence the mechanical additions to the shaft/clubhead connection (threaded hosels, pins, etc) in Ye Olde Days.

[kaboboom]

Well, I agree with you...better adhesive allow less surface area needed for a strong bond, and of course, no need pins, etc. , and as we also know, another opportunity to put weight on the perimeter, etc.

 

[raggal62]

Just more food for thought when using modern shafts in vintage iron heads. If the build plan includes modern length specs (IE - 5 iron 38" vs. 37.5") then generally expect higher SW values due to the heavier headweights. Vintage iron heads will usually weigh in around 10 grams heavier than modern iron heads.

Also when considering taper tip vs. parallel - there is no wrong answer. Either is fine. I certainly wouldn't hesitate reaming to .370" and I also wouldn't hesitate careful sanding of a .370" graphite shaft to fit a .355" bore. But if graphite is chosen then by all means countersink the hosels and ferrules and do away with the pins if equipped.