Help Please Wilson FG-51 irons

[Socrates]

2 hours ago, JDLA said:

Lol. After the price I just paid to get this tool, it certainly was a ream job.  $29 bucks for a $2 bit-geesh. 

And yet, impossible to do the job without it.   Job specific tools are never cheap.  These (I assume from Golfworks) aren't cheaply made reamers.   If you ever want sticker shock, go to an industrial supplier that sells drill bits and various other similar items for industry and you'll see some reaming.

[JDLA]

Can’t agree more, Socrates. It’s all good. Hey, should I use some cutting oil prior to using the reamer?  It came with no instructions but straight metal on metal normally is not a good idea. Welcome your and other’s thoughts and thanks. 

[Swingingk]

18 minutes ago, JDLA said:

Can’t agree more, Socrates. It’s all good. Hey, should I use some cutting oil prior to using the reamer?  It came with no instructions but straight metal on metal normally is not a good idea. Welcome your and other’s thoughts and thanks. 

Some oil would be a good idea.  I like to use Rapid Tap and it comes in tiny bottles.  WD40 might do.  Remove chips often.

And remember the cardinal rule of reaming:  never rotate backwards in the cut.  Not even a little bit.  Clockwise only.  

[JDLA]

Thanks swingingk for the advice. 😊

[Socrates]

11 hours ago, JDLA said:

Can’t agree more, Socrates. It’s all good. Hey, should I use some cutting oil prior to using the reamer?  It came with no instructions but straight metal on metal normally is not a good idea. Welcome your and other’s thoughts and thanks. 

These are designed for hand use, not to be used in a drill.  If you do it by hand, you do not need to use oil, but it cannot hurt.  Just makes cleanup and preparing for epoxy that much more difficult.

[UofAGolf007]

Anyone have the original specs for the FG51’s? After ready this, I feel inspired to tear into my set and swap out those firesticks for something little more modern

[Socrates]

44 minutes ago, UofAGolf007 said:

Anyone have the original specs for the FG51’s? After ready this, I feel inspired to tear into my set and swap out those firesticks for something little more modern

[NRJyzr]

6 hours ago, Socrates said:

 

Are you sure about those?  The info I've seen shows a 29* 5i and 49* PW.  The Progressives, which were the model immediately following the FG51s have 19/29/49 for 2i/5i/pw...

 

Edited February 27, 2022 by NRJyzr

[JDLA]

Here are the lofts I used for my 51s. I found these lofts in a review somewhere but can’t remember where.  I wasn’t concerned about factory lie as much given they were adjusted to “my” playing specs. Maybe this will help. 
 1=17*, 2=20*, 3=23*, 4=26*, 5=30*, 6=34*, 7=38*, 8=42*, 9=46*, PW=49*.

 

[Socrates]

3 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Are you sure about those?  The info I've seen shows a 29* 5i and 49* PW.  The Progressives, which were the model immediately following the FG51s have 19/29/49 for 2i/5i/pw...

 

just copied from a google search.  The GW might indicate they are from a later model.

[UofAGolf007]

Thanks guys, much appreciated

[Swingingk]

6 hours ago, Socrates said:

just copied from a google search.  The GW might indicate they are from a later model.

I don't think Wilson did a gap wedge until around 1995 or so.  I think the RM Midsize had a gap wedge.

[dab]

Just wanted to add that Wilson did make the Fg51's in .370 parallel bore for some custom orders. I had bought a brand new set of Fg51 irons 1-pw in 1991 from a pro shop. Did not notice they had S300u parallel tip shafts until some years later. Wilson was famous for having many custom options for their irons during the 70 and 80's.

[Wham49]

great to read this you guys, just bought a set of 51's and was excited to reshaft maybe I should just wait and see if I ned to becasue I really dont want a reshafting mess that will cost me more money

 

so a reamer is like a hand crank drill bit? I think I need one for my wilson lob wedge. where can I buy it? 

[Wham49]

so I have played 4 or 5 rounds with te 51's and man do I love the pitching wedge, it is a 49 but I hit it longer than that, great set love the 3 i as well

 

no issues with the shafts the guy had no idea apparently, said they were bad, but the are lovely older s300 ti

Edited November 2, 2022 by Wham49

[RolandofGilead]

I found this video of someone getting an ‘87 fluid feel head loose. Sounds like this is the way, provided the loft and lie angles are close to the originals.

 

Writeup here:

http://www.fitforpurposegolf.com/wilson-1987-fluid-feel-retro-build/

[RolandofGilead]

On 12/12/2021 at 8:22 AM, Socrates said:

These are designed for hand use, not to be used in a drill.  If you do it by hand, you do not need to use oil, but it cannot hurt.  Just makes cleanup and preparing for epoxy that much more difficult.

I have a set of FG-51 heads and I’m having trouble hand reaming with the Golfworks spiral flute. I got the 3,5,7 irons done but it took a lot of sweat and grunting. (They are so sweet to hit though!) I am pretty well stuck on the 9i - can’t get the shaft down the final 1/4 to 3/8 inch to fully seat. Then there are the evens to deal with as well. Any thoughts on what could be making these so tough to hand ream? Would previous loft or lie adjustments cause a slight bend in the hosel, which makes this more difficult?

Edited January 10, 2023 by RolandofGilead

[JDLA]

Hi, Rolando

i know when I teamed mine out it was a challenge. I’ll be interested in hearing the thoughts from others given your challenges. 

[Swingingk]

55 minutes ago, RolandofGilead said:

I have a set of FG-51 heads and I’m having trouble hand reaming with the Golfworks spiral flute. I got the 3,5,7 irons done but it took a lot of sweat and grunting. (They are so sweet to hit though!) I am pretty well stuck on the 9i - can’t get the shaft down the final 1/4 to 3/8 inch to fully seat. Then there are the evens to deal with as well. Any thoughts on what could be making these so tough to hand ream? Would previous loft or lie adjustments cause a slight bend in the hosel, which makes this more difficult?

Yes, previous hosel adjustments will make things more difficult.  If you look carefully down the hosel bore toward the hole in the sole you can usually see any bend.  I've found it best to try and straighten them as best as you can before you attempt to pull the shafts, which makes their removal easier as well.

As for the difficulty reaming I'd guess the tool has gone dull, which happens fairly easily when cutting through chrome plating and/or if it has been turned backwards at all.  Reamers are fussy - they need to be sharp.

Edited January 10, 2023 by Swingingk

[RolandofGilead]

1 hour ago, Swingingk said:

Yes, previous hosel adjustments will make things more difficult.  If you look carefully down the hosel bore toward the hole in the sole you can usually see any bend.  I've found it best to try and straighten them as best as you can before you attempt to pull the shafts, which makes their removal easier as well.

As for the difficulty reaming I'd guess the tool has gone dull, which happens fairly easily when cutting through chrome plating and/or if it has been turned backwards at all.  Reamers are fussy - they need to be sharp.

Thanks! These aren’t bore-thru so I’m not sure how well the naked eye can see a bend but I will check. The previous owner said the previous shafts came out easily. Final note is that I originally took these to my local shop for reaming. He tried a drill press and stopped because the first hosel he tried was overheating and changing color after just a tiny amount of boring (he said he used oil). I went the hand tool route with that club and a couple others, but alas stuck with most of them.

Edited January 10, 2023 by RolandofGilead

[Swingingk]

24 minutes ago, RolandofGilead said:

Thanks! These aren’t bore-thru so I’m not sure how well the naked eye can see a bend but I will check. The previous owner said the previous shafts came out easily. Final note is that I originally took these to my local shop for reaming. He tried a drill press and stopped because the first hosel he tried was overheating and changing color after just a tiny amount of boring (he said he used oil). I went the hand tool route with that club and a couple others, but alas stuck with most of them.

Oh ok, not a through-bored head.  I should have known that...  I wouldn't think that type of bore would be bent enough to worry about it.  Could it be that you cant get the ream deep enough because there's residual epoxy down in there?  

If your tech guy got the hosel to turn color while reaming he definitely went too hard at it with a dull tool.  If there is chrome inside the bore it may very well wreck the tool before it even gets a chance to start.  I'd suggest going in there with a stone on a Dremel tool or drill to dust off the plating then try the ream.

[Socrates]

18 hours ago, Swingingk said:

Oh ok, not a through-bored head.  I should have known that...  I wouldn't think that type of bore would be bent enough to worry about it.  Could it be that you cant get the ream deep enough because there's residual epoxy down in there?  

If your tech guy got the hosel to turn color while reaming he definitely went too hard at it with a dull tool.  If there is chrome inside the bore it may very well wreck the tool before it even gets a chance to start.  I'd suggest going in there with a stone on a Dremel tool or drill to dust off the plating then try the ream.

What can happen when some guys bend hosels is that the 'crush' the hosel and it is no longer round.  Happens when irons are bent with no shaft or steel rod in the hosel to prevent that from happening.  If this has happened, you really have few options.  You can try and bend it back and hope the hosel returns to shape or step drill (not a reamer) the hosel to retain some taper until you can get a shaft into the hosel all the way.  If it is really bad, the heads are junk.

[RolandofGilead]

2 hours ago, Socrates said:

What can happen when some guys bend hosels is that the 'crush' the hosel and it is no longer round. 

Gosh I sure hope it’s not that. The 3,5,7i clubs I have assembled are SO sweet, I actually prefer them over my ‘99 Hogan Apex blades. The heads are slightly shorter heel to toe, have a more appealing shape, and feel incredibly solid and firm at impact.
 

I tried reaming some more last night and the hosel gets hot to the touch but with no increase in depth. Seems like it’s just rubbing and I’m not sure why the flute would be dull so quickly. I think my path forward looks like removing any plated chrome in the hosel and trying to ream again (probably with a fresh flute if it doesn’t work with my used one). I had never heard of played chrome being an issue with reaming but it makes sense given the slow or no progress.

Edited January 11, 2023 by RolandofGilead

[Socrates]

4 hours ago, RolandofGilead said:

Gosh I sure hope it’s not that. The 3,5,7i clubs I have assembled are SO sweet, I actually prefer them over my ‘99 Hogan Apex blades. The heads are slightly shorter heel to toe, have a more appealing shape, and feel incredibly solid and firm at impact.
 

I tried reaming some more last night and the hosel gets hot to the touch but with no increase in depth. Seems like it’s just rubbing and I’m not sure why the flute would be dull so quickly. I think my path forward looks like removing any plated chrome in the hosel and trying to ream again (probably with a fresh flute if it doesn’t work with my used one). I had never heard of played chrome being an issue with reaming but it makes sense given the slow or no progress.

A reamer is not the tool to use in this scenario.  You need a drill press (ideally) and good drill bits and drill carefully.  If you have used the reamer so far, it is likely too dull now to do anything.  Either get it sharpened or replace it.

[JDLA]

Those reamers can be pesky. Do they make a .355 tapered drill bit for a press?  I ask cause I don’t know. If not, and your going to use a press, could you drill out to .370 and go parallel all the way?

[Socrates]

18 hours ago, JDLA said:

Those reamers can be pesky. Do they make a .355 tapered drill bit for a press?  I ask cause I don’t know. If not, and your going to use a press, could you drill out to .370 and go parallel all the way?

The FG-51's have a pretty small hosel that tapers as you get closer to the bottom.  I wouldn't be too crazy about drilling these out to .370.  You could end up with a hosel wall thickness that isn't strong enough and could break/crack very quickly.  Way back in the 80's, I drilled out a set of X-31's that were similar.  The hosels cracked as soon as I attempted a lie adjustment.  Lesson learned.

[RolandofGilead]

On 1/10/2023 at 12:59 PM, Swingingk said:

I'd suggest going in there with a stone on a Dremel tool or drill to dust off the plating then try the ream.

I bought a cheap rotary tool set from Harbor Freight and gave this a shot: worked like a charm. Getting an insertion depth around 1 1/8” which is a tad short (1/8” or so) but probably fine. Thanks for the tip! Saved me money I would have spent on another set of FG-51s.