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Cutting driver shaft rather than pulling it?


Daeldalus
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I am going to try an experiment with a very short driver. That said I don't want to spend money on it till I have tried a few things out. 

 

As long as there is enough parallel section left on the shaft, could I just cut a driver shaft at the head and reprep the tip? I don't have the tools to pull the shaft properly nor would I want to risk overheating it.

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You could I guess, but you’d be ripping that shaft pretty heavily and would still have to get the old tip out of the hosel or adaptor. Seems like more effort for a lessor result than just properly pulling the shaft to start with.

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Ah, the driver I am getting the shaft from is not the one that is receiving the shaft. Also, I have been meaning to reshaft that club with a different profile shaft after adding some hot melt. So the shaft is destined to come out at some point.

 

Is there a way to minimize damage from cutting it free? Lots of masking tape and a very fine saw?

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Since you're going shorter there's no reason you can't do it, being aware of course that it will have the same effect as tipping the shaft, because that's what you've done. I've done this a few times, using the pulled shaft in a fairway wood where I'd be tipping it anyway.

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2 hours ago, Daeldalus said:

As long as there is enough parallel section left on the shaft, could I just cut a driver shaft at the head and reprep the tip?

 

That's really the key thing here - assuming you don't care about how much stiffer it will play after doing this.  But 1) you need to check the shaft specs for the length of the parallel tip section, 2) you have to know how much it's already been tipped (if at all) 3) you need to know how much you're actually removing from the tip when you do cut it off and finally 4) the bore/shaft insertion depth of the head you're going to install it in.

 

3" is a common tip section length but there are some shafts out there with only 2" tip sections (and some with 4" - but those are very rare now bore through heads are a thing of the past).   Typically cutting off at the top of the hosel (not the top of the ferrule) you can conservatively expect to remove almost 1.5" from the tip.    Common bore depths are about 1.25"  which makes the max safe tipping about 1-3/4" if there is a 3" parallel tip section.   That makes it possible but you'd be cutting it pretty close - maybe a 1/4" to spare.   There's not much room for error - assuming it hasn't been tipped any already.

 

If the shaft is one that only has a 2" parallel tip section or if it's been tipped at all (like most of the TM factory installed upgrades), then forget it.  You'll never have enough left.

Edited by Stuart_G
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50 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

That's really the key thing here - assuming you don't care about how much stiffer it will play after doing this.  But 1) you need to check the shaft specs for the length of the parallel tip section, 2) you have to know how much it's already been tipped (if at all) 3) you need to know how much you're actually removing from the tip when you do cut it off and finally 4) the bore/shaft insertion depth of the head you're going to install it in.

Thanks for the insight. This was all good info. I will check into it.

 

Can the parallel section be measured with a caliper? 

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Im assuming its not a very expensive shaft, otherwise you wouldnt consider it, but yes, most of the time this will work without issues.

 

However, I would consider the possibility that this shaft may not be the best shaft for the experiment, and if you liked the feeling of the shaft before, it might play completely different in feel and performance, so you might not be able to learn anything afterwards.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Gohigh said:

Im assuming its not a very expensive shaft, otherwise you wouldnt consider it, but yes, most of the time this will work without issues.

 

However, I would consider the possibility that this shaft may not be the best shaft for the experiment, and if you liked the feeling of the shaft before, it might play completely different in feel and performance, so you might not be able to learn anything afterwards.

 

 

 

 

Definitely not an expensive shaft but not bad either. It was not a good shaft for me when I played the club. A fitting revealed that the tip section was too soft for me. 

 

I am kinda hoping that this will stiffen the tip section enough to test out my idea at least.

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10 hours ago, Daeldalus said:

Thanks for the insight. This was all good info. I will check into it.

 

Can the parallel section be measured with a caliper? 

 

Not impossible but not sure how reliable it might be.   The key to the parallel tip section is at what point the internal reinforcement (to handle the high stress at the top of the hosel) stops - not the actual diamater.  It's always better to get the specs from the shaft OEM.  To check for total tipping (before or after you cut it) it's best to use a "tip to graphic" measurement that can sometimes be found for some shafts.

 

e.g.

 

 

9 hours ago, Daeldalus said:

I am kinda hoping that this will stiffen the tip section enough to test out my idea at least.

 

It will definitely do that - as long as the head weight doesn't increase too much.   And if going shorter you generally may need to add head weight.   How short were you thinking in terms of playing length?

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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5 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

And if going shorter you generally may need to add head weight.   How short were you thinking in terms of playing length?

 

I was planning to try lead tape for head weight at first until I settle on a swing weight and overall length.

 

I plan to start at 43 inches and go down from there until I hit the right window. 

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