8i Spinner trick - with low access to shafts/equipment

[jjinsa]

I play X100 in my irons... I cannot get X7 shafts  unless I pay an exorbitant price for them.  

I have read the "red block" that is pinned on howard's spinner trick thread... so most likely point no4 going to apply to me - use the same shaft as PW, (which is the 37" DG X100 uncut), and tip trim.  But now I have the issue of needing to ream the hosel of the club.  Which again, I have limited access to someone who can do that.

 

I currently have S400 in my wedges (X100 in irons).  Would even going to X100 8i shaft, tip trimming as much as I can without needing to ream the hosel (so how much is that, around 0,25 to 0,5"?).  Would this perhaps not get me to full "spinner trick", but at least halfway there?

 

Also a point I miss from Howards thread... for X100 where the stiffest shaft is the 9i one, which is then used in wedges.  If you go a flex up, since there is no dedicated wedge shaft, would it not need to be an X7 7-iron shaft as opposed to 8i?  Like I said since 9i is the stiffest shaft in Dynamic gold

 

Ultimately, if I cannot do any of Howards points 1 to 4 precisely, would using X100 shafts in my wedges (ie use the 9i one), and tip trip them, at least be closer to a better fit wedge shaft than my current S400 9i shafts straight in. 

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited February 29 by jjinsa
Forgot some info

[Ger21]

4 hours ago, jjinsa said:

Would even going to X100 8i shaft, tip trimming as much as I can without needing to ream the hosel (so how much is that, around 0,25 to 0,5"?).  Would this perhaps not get me to full "spinner trick", but at least halfway there?

 

The goal of the "8i spinner" is to put a stiffer shaft in your wedge, continuing the progression from your irons into your wedges. If you were to start with an X100 8 iron, and tip it 1/2", it would essentially be the same as the 9 iron/PW shaft. That's why you go up one flex, which you can't do with an X100, unless you go to X7.

 

What I do, is tip trim the shaft for the PW 3/8".  It should not require any reaming at all, and gives the proper (or close enough) progression from 9i to PW.

But that doesn't help with the wedges. Unless you want to soft step 1x, then you could use the 3/8" tip trim in your wedges, with no additional reaming required.

If you happen to have a undersized (tight) hosel, you can ream by hand very easily. But it's somewhat dependent on the depth of the hosel bore. Reamer's don't cut on the bottom (drill), so you can only ream until the reamer hits the bottom of the bore, which may not allow you to remove any material.

 

Quote

Also a point I miss from Howards thread... for X100 where the stiffest shaft is the 9i one, which is then used in wedges.  If you go a flex up, since there is no dedicated wedge shaft, would it not need to be an X7 7-iron shaft as opposed to 8i?

 

No. Since there is no W shaft in X100, you'd use the 9i shaft from X7's. See #4 in Howards post in the Red Border.

[jjinsa]

1 minute ago, Ger21 said:

 

The goal of the "8i spinner" is to put a stiffer shaft in your wedge, continuing the progression from your irons into your wedges. If you were to start with an X100 8 iron, and tip it 1/2", it would essentially be the same as the 9 iron/PW shaft. That's why you go up one flex, which you can't do with an X100, unless you go to X7.

 

What I do, is tip trim the shaft for the PW 3/8".  It should not require any reaming at all, and gives the proper (or close enough) progression from 9i to PW.

But that doesn't help with the wedges. Unless you want to soft step 1x, then you could use the 3/8" tip trim in your wedges, with no additional reaming required.

If you happen to have a undersized (tight) hosel, you can ream by hand very easily. But it's somewhat dependent on the depth of the hosel bore. Reamer's don't cut on the bottom (drill), so you can only ream until the reamer hits the bottom of the bore, which may not allow you to remove any material.

 

 

No. Since there is no W shaft in X100, you'd use the 9i shaft from X7's. See #4 in Howards post in the Red Border.

Thanks.  So my question I suppose I am really asking to this is:
I cannot get X7s here unless I pay too much and import.  I currently have S400 in my wedges straight in (must be 9i shafts).  would X100 tipped 3/4" give me a lower flight and more spin, than what i currently have>?  It is not exactly an "8i spinner trick", but perhaps closer than what I have now?

[Howard_Jones]

58 minutes ago, jjinsa said:

Thanks.  So my question I suppose I am really asking to this is:
I cannot get X7s here unless I pay too much and import.  I currently have S400 in my wedges straight in (must be 9i shafts).  would X100 tipped 3/4" give me a lower flight and more spin, than what i currently have>?  It is not exactly an "8i spinner trick", but perhaps closer than what I have now?

Since a X100 #9 iron shaft, is "3 shafts stronger" than a S400 #9 iron shaft, launch will go down, and spin will go up.

A ream job is EASY and far from what it sounds like, you might be "dissapointed" when you see how easy it is, and how little material we need to remove, we are close to "dust"....

if you DONT want to ream it, and go "all the way", i suggest you use DG X100 #9 iron shafts, tip trimmed 3/8"
Then you are almost "4 shafts stronger" than DG S400....

Reaming by hand....the FULL video is 1:39.....so its not exactly a big job
 

 

For DG X100
1 shaft stronger = 5/8" tip trim (#9 becomes a PW shaft)
2 shaft stronger = 1.25" tip trim (#9 becomes a GW shaft)

FLEX THEORY AND BALL FLIGHT
- NO player respond like Iron Byron does, but 1 CPM softer, is 1 feet higher apex

DGX has a flex slope of right above 6 CPM per shaft, DGS right above 5
3 shafts tronger (DGX #9 vs DGS #9) becomes 15-18 CPM or 15-18 feet higher apex with S400

3/8" tip trim = 3 CPM = 3 feets.

A 3/8" tip trimmed X100 #9 iron shaft, shall "on the paper", be 18-21 feets lower at apex than DGS 400 #9.

Compared to a #8 iron spinner, (GW flex) we did not make it all the way.
PW will have a apex of 2 feets higher (3/8" vs 5/8" tip trim)
GW will have a apex of 7 feets higher (3/8" vs 1.25" tip trim)

But still about 20 feets lower than S400 for the GW

Edited February 29 by Howard_Jones

[EddieEdwards]

Just thinking about possible alternatives that involve reaming.  Right now I'm loving the 8i x100's, but these are interesting alternatives.

 

A s400 9i tipped 1-1/2" would give the extra weight of the s400.

 

A r400 9i tipped 4-4-1/2" gives extra weight and a softer butt section.  I play my wedges 35" so it should work for me, any longer would probably require extensions.

[jjinsa]

2 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

Since a X100 #9 iron shaft, is "3 shafts stronger" than a S400 #9 iron shaft, launch will go down, and spin will go up.

A ream job is EASY and far from what it sounds like, you might be "dissapointed" when you see how easy it is, and how little material we need to remove, we are close to "dust"....

if you DONT want to ream it, and go "all the way", i suggest you use DG X100 #9 iron shafts, tip trimmed 3/8"
Then you are almost "4 shafts stronger" than DG S400....

Reaming by hand....the FULL video is 1:39.....so its not exactly a big job
 

 

For DG X100
1 shaft stronger = 5/8" tip trim (#9 becomes a PW shaft)
2 shaft stronger = 1.25" tip trim (#9 becomes a GW shaft)

FLEX THEORY AND BALL FLIGHT
- NO player respond like Iron Byron does, but 1 CPM softer, is 1 feet higher apex

DGX has a flex slope of right above 6 CPM per shaft, DGS right above 5
3 shafts tronger (DGX #9 vs DGS #9) becomes 15-18 CPM or 15-18 feet higher apex with S400

3/8" tip trim = 3 CPM = 3 feets.

A 3/8" tip trimmed X100 #9 iron shaft, shall "on the paper", be 18-21 feets lower at apex than DGS 400 #9.

Compared to a #8 iron spinner, (GW flex) we did not make it all the way.
PW will have a apex of 2 feets higher (3/8" vs 5/8" tip trim)
GW will have a apex of 7 feets higher (3/8" vs 1.25" tip trim)

But still about 20 feets lower than S400 for the GW

Great thank you. So at least better than what I have. 

[Howard_Jones]

37 minutes ago, jjinsa said:

Great thank you. So at least better than what I have. 

exactly, and now you have som "numbers from the paper" who indicates where you comes from, and where you go, all as "relative" values. Its not possible to make better "estimates" than this, we always have to try it, to know how much it change it all for us. 

 

[MFBach]

8 hours ago, EddieEdwards said:

Just thinking about possible alternatives that involve reaming.  Right now I'm loving the 8i x100's

This isn’t directly at you specifically, but more so something that comes up pretty regularly (and possibly inaccurately), but rarely seems to get mentioned (even though it’s in @Howard_Jones OP).  The “8i spinner” is a solution to continue a flex progression from your irons into your full swing wedges. 
 

I think a lot of people see “8i spinner” and assume they plug 8i shafts of a full flex stronger in all of their full swing wedges. If you’re working towards a consistent flex progression, the 8i shaft is the beginning. 8i shaft > GW. 9i shaft (same model as 8i) > SW. PW shaft (if available) > LW (assuming full swing club). 
 

Maybe I’m on a tangent, but it seems like far too many posters refer to “8i shafts” for their wedges without actually looking at the data provided in the thread. 

[jjinsa]

13 hours ago, MFBach said:

This isn’t directly at you specifically, but more so something that comes up pretty regularly (and possibly inaccurately), but rarely seems to get mentioned (even though it’s in @Howard_Jones OP).  The “8i spinner” is a solution to continue a flex progression from your irons into your full swing wedges. 
 

I think a lot of people see “8i spinner” and assume they plug 8i shafts of a full flex stronger in all of their full swing wedges. If you’re working towards a consistent flex progression, the 8i shaft is the beginning. 8i shaft > GW. 9i shaft (same model as 8i) > SW. PW shaft (if available) > LW (assuming full swing club). 
 

Maybe I’m on a tangent, but it seems like far too many posters refer to “8i shafts” for their wedges without actually looking at the data provided in the thread. 

I do know this thanks.  I want to do the DGX7 8i spinner in my GW, then for my SW/LW (58 - I only have 52 and 58 in my new set), Something a bit softer, so maybe an X100 9i shaft, since it will take more partial shots.  What do you think?

[nitram]

1 hour ago, jjinsa said:

I do know this thanks.  I want to do the DGX7 8i spinner in my GW, then for my SW/LW (58 - I only have 52 and 58 in my new set), Something a bit softer, so maybe an X100 9i shaft, since it will take more partial shots.  What do you think?

 

Do yourself a favor and try as many options as you can before you settle on something prematurely. Yes, it'll take a little time and effort but, with a bit of diligence you'll eventually end up with the best shaft(s) for you.

 

On another note, I played X100 from the day they were introduced to the masses back in the '80's. Like everyone else I used S300and later S400 in wedges. About this time Mr. Karsten was placing stiff shafts in everything and I happened to demo a wedge that was shafted this way. It was an absolute game changer for me. Lower flight and noticeably more spin. Eventually I moved on from the PING shafts played around with X100 in wedges. After tinkering relentlessly for a few years an old master club builder in Sebring , FL gave me part the missing information I was looking for.  He was the one that taught me the headweights in the  PW differed from SW which differed from the LW, and also the stiffness difference(s) between 8, 9, and W shafts Therefore the stiffness wasn't consistent throughout the wedge set. Also during this time not many folks were talking about soft or hard stepping shafts for amateurs in most golf shops.

 

Around '94-95 I went with some Rifle 7.0 (later determined to spec around 7.8) shafts and things really got interesting and noticeably better. Flight was lower and spin was the best I'd ever been able to acquire, almost uncontrollable. I played this set of shafts for a decade or so until the X-7 was introduced around '05. They were the answer to my prayer, at least for wedge shafts.

 

Fast forward to a couple years ago when I was compelled (for health and longevity reasons) to ditch steel shafts in favor of non-steel. Thanks to @Howard_Jones I was able to make a seamless transition to non-steel shafts, to include my wedges. It took a little work, reaming, figuring, and experimenting to get it just right but can honestly say my wedges are just as good or better than they were with the X7. Just mess around with it and don't be afraid to go too stiff. If you keep good notes, you can always find your way back to your sweet spot. Good luck sir.

[Andygolderson]

I was about to recommend the PW option until i realized it might be difficult in steel.

 

I just set up a graphite set, where I took PW and tipped a half inch off it and really created a monster.

In my previous set I bought the 8i of the higher flex and but trimmed to size, but they feel much different in spin performance.

 

Maybe it's the head ultimately and not comparing apples to apples.

 

 

[jjinsa]

@Howard_Jones, I am struggling to even find X100 shafts for my wedges now.  For reference, I used the Mizuno shaft optimiser recently, and it came out:
1. C Taper 130X
2. DG X100
3. KBS Tour 130X

It seems like the KBS here, are more available and cheaper than DG X100 too, (which I find weird), but it is what it is.  Using a C taper X, say soft stepped slightly less, so 9i shaft into in GW, PW in SW etc... would that also bring my launch down and spin up, compared to S400 straight in like I have now?  I know they are different profile, but since they came out no1 on the optimizer, I am sure they would feel okay for me.  The reason I have X100 in my irons and not C taper, is that I already had X100, and since they came out no2, I thought its still good enough.

Even the KBS Tour 130X, could I use the 9i and PW shafts into my wedges?  Still better than the S400?

[Howard_Jones]

7 hours ago, jjinsa said:

@Howard_Jones, I am struggling to even find X100 shafts for my wedges now.  For reference, I used the Mizuno shaft optimiser recently, and it came out:
1. C Taper 130X
2. DG X100
3. KBS Tour 130X

It seems like the KBS here, are more available and cheaper than DG X100 too, (which I find weird), but it is what it is.  Using a C taper X, say soft stepped slightly less, so 9i shaft into in GW, PW in SW etc... would that also bring my launch down and spin up, compared to S400 straight in like I have now?  I know they are different profile, but since they came out no1 on the optimizer, I am sure they would feel okay for me.  The reason I have X100 in my irons and not C taper, is that I already had X100, and since they came out no2, I thought its still good enough.

Even the KBS Tour 130X, could I use the 9i and PW shafts into my wedges?  Still better than the S400?

All shafts that has less deflection (lower dynamic loft), will launch lower and have more spin, but i would never suggest mixing DG irons with another model from KBS for wedges....in general KBS Tour has a higher launch than the equivalent flex DG, while feel is another ball game... 

[jjinsa]

3 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

All shafts that has less deflection (lower dynamic loft), will launch lower and have more spin, but i would never suggest mixing DG irons with another model from KBS for wedges....in general KBS Tour has a higher launch than the equivalent flex DG, while feel is another ball game... 

Cool, will continue the search for the X100! haha