Best Epoxy

[Hondabuff]

Just built 3 new wedges with the Dp-810. After 20 minutes I hit the ferrules with acetone. 25 minutes I installed 3 Golf Pride DD2's. At 45 minutes I was hitting balls in the yard. Very, Very low odor and a pure pleasure to deal with. Even comes in Black also.

Also Dp-100 has wayyyy less shear strength vs. Dp-810 750psi vs. 3500psi on steel. Your asking for trouble building irons with DP-100. I would just stick to DP-810,,,If I remember Dp-100 is for Aluminum.

 

[jhigdon]

The DP810 is the best.

 

I also wipes off easier than others, when you're cleaning up your sloppy-too-much-epoxy-mess from the hosel & shaft & crown & hands & etc.

[goondawg]

DP810. Once you have used that you won't bother with anything else.

 

Exactly. Everything else is pretty much crap compared to DP810. A little pricey, $13, but very much worth it.

[bigred90gt]

I just made my first attempt at re-shafting 2 days ago, and used some 24 hour epoxy that I got for about $5 from a local golf shop. I took them to the range after letting them cure for about 20ish hours, and hit about 20 balls with each one. I didnt lose a head, so it must be at least ok.

 

Just out of curiosity, what advantage do you actually get using a $13 epoxy over a $5 epoxy (if they both hold) other than bragging about using a more expensive epoxy? What makes that $8 difference "worth it"? That is a genuine question, I'm not being sarcastic.

[gaar]

here's the best money can buy

see attached

[Hondabuff]

I just made my first attempt at re-shafting 2 days ago, and used some 24 hour epoxy that I got for about $5 from a local golf shop. I took them to the range after letting them cure for about 20ish hours, and hit about 20 balls with each one. I didnt lose a head, so it must be at least ok.

 

Just out of curiosity, what advantage do you actually get using a $13 epoxy over a $5 epoxy (if they both hold) other than bragging about using a more expensive epoxy? What makes that $8 difference "worth it"? That is a genuine question, I'm not being sarcastic.

 

Higher strengths. Faster assembly. Cleans up super easy. No odor. Dries black in color. Yes it is more expensive but you will use less per build and also need an epoxy gun. Also breaks down fast with heat for pulling a head and the dried resin cleans up very easily in the hosel. Trust me, once you have used 24hr epoxy and then switch over to DP-810 you will see the advantage to reshafting a club and then using it 45 minutes later. I learned about it last year on here "Golfwrx" and would like to thank the person who recommended it in the first place. One of the few things you can purchase as a club builder is is really worth your hard earned cash. Almost all the OEM's have switched to this adhesive. 5 stars in my book.

[poprocksncoke]

Elmers glue............ :P I have always just used the 5 min epoxy you buy at wal-mart or wherever. Never had a problem with it myself but one of my friends reshafted his irons a couple days before a tournament and during the tournament his heads kept flying off!! LOL!!!!!

[turbodog]

i've used JB quik weld at times - it is strong, sets fast, breaks down well and cleans out of hosels and off shafts easily. i like that it won't break down at trunk-of-car heat, but breaks down easily before graphite decomposes heat! only problem is those little tubes are a bit of a pain.

[rblmp32]

Honestly, if you're not using Bramptons you're doing yourself a disservice.

[AcesAZ]

After trying out DP-810 I wont use anything else.

[xtraspin]

Golfsmith 30/60...

I have never had a problem with it in the past 4 years

[KYMAR]

[quote name='Wildwing55' post='1385901' date='Dec 22 2008, 10:50 PM']Golfworks two-part expoxy. Comes in every size from big bottles to small packets. Have never had a club come loose.[/quote]

+1 I use gworks 24hour and the tour set. The tour set i have literally final assembled a driver, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and rest it gently in my back seat. 25 minute drive to the course, pay, warm up etc and its ready to play.

[BCC]

Maybe I misread a previous post----where do you get 3M DP 810 for $13.00 ???
GolfWorks latest VB 1001 or 1002 is great to work with an has a shear strength of 4500 psi !!

[goondawg]

[quote name='Grum' post='1384544' date='Dec 22 2008, 05:30 AM']3M Scotch-Weld DP810 on the tour vans. Pricey stuff. $20 for 1.7 oz[/quote]


Best epoxy period

[AcesAZ]

[quote name='BCC' post='2101176' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:19 PM']Maybe I misread a previous post----where do you get 3M DP 810 for $13.00 ???
GolfWorks latest VB 1001 or 1002 is great to work with an has a shear strength of 4500 psi !![/quote]

Cheapest I found was directly from 3M, 15 and change plus shipping and tax. Ordered 5 more 50 ML's. Figure that should last me a few years! Never had a club fail using DP810. Only drawback is you have to work fast with it. I only do 3 clubs at a time max. It cures ultra quick.

[BCC]

[quote name='AcesAZ' post='2101263' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:57 PM'][quote name='BCC' post='2101176' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:19 PM']Maybe I misread a previous post----where do you get 3M DP 810 for $13.00 ???
GolfWorks latest VB 1001 or 1002 is great to work with an has a shear strength of 4500 psi !![/quote]

Cheapest I found was directly from 3M, 15 and change plus shipping and tax. Ordered 5 more 50 ML's. Figure that should last me a few years! Never had a club fail using DP810. Only drawback is you have to work fast with it. I only do 3 clubs at a time max. It cures ultra quick.
[/quote]

Stuff is like a 10 minute gel time and 6-8 hour full cure--correct ?

[AcesAZ]

[quote name='BCC' post='2101332' date='Dec 3 2009, 03:31 PM'][quote name='AcesAZ' post='2101263' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:57 PM'][quote name='BCC' post='2101176' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:19 PM']Maybe I misread a previous post----where do you get 3M DP 810 for $13.00 ???
GolfWorks latest VB 1001 or 1002 is great to work with an has a shear strength of 4500 psi !![/quote]

Cheapest I found was directly from 3M, 15 and change plus shipping and tax. Ordered 5 more 50 ML's. Figure that should last me a few years! Never had a club fail using DP810. Only drawback is you have to work fast with it. I only do 3 clubs at a time max. It cures ultra quick.
[/quote]

Stuff is like a 10 minute gel time and 6-8 hour full cure--correct ?
[/quote]

It starts to get thick in a couple, and firm in like 5 for me. Cant do many clubs at a time with one mixing.

[goondawg]

[quote name='AcesAZ' post='2101263' date='Dec 3 2009, 04:57 PM'][quote name='BCC' post='2101176' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:19 PM']Maybe I misread a previous post----where do you get 3M DP 810 for $13.00 ???
GolfWorks latest VB 1001 or 1002 is great to work with an has a shear strength of 4500 psi !![/quote]

Cheapest I found was directly from 3M, 15 and change plus shipping and tax. Ordered 5 more 50 ML's. Figure that should last me a few years! Never had a club fail using DP810. Only drawback is you have to work fast with it. I only do 3 clubs at a time max. It cures ultra quick.
[/quote]


I've been buying it from Leaderboard Golf for $14

[stage1350]

For irons and wedges, I still use 24 hour Golfsmith. I buy it by the quart and it usually gets me through a year of builds.

For one offs and putters, I use the black Tour Set Plus from Maltby/Golfworks. It has about 30 minutes of gel time and is set in about 90 minutes. No bonding issues with woods.

I only use the 5 minute stuff for extensions, butt caps, grip collars, etc. EVERY club that I've ever had a bond fail with was from 5 minute epoxy. Air voids, creaking and popping sounds, etc. It's just not worth it.

The slower cure stuff sets like concrete and is rock solid. It's worth the wait.

[razorbird]

conap

[atom330]

While working at golfsmith Ive used all the epoxies we have: tour van, 30/60, graphite, and the shafting epoxy plus. Ill have to say that i like the tour van and the shafting epoxy plus the most. The tour van sets quickly but i usually only use it for my own stuff. I like being able to hit balls with it about 30min after i set it. I would usually use the 30/60 or the shafting epoxy plus (which has shafting beads in it) for customers clubs. The tour van has more plastic in it and may crystallize faster than 30/60 when exposed to long durations of heat i.e. trunk of car...

[OldSkoolTexan]

[quote name='goondawg ' post='2101207' date='Dec 3 2009, 02:30 PM'][quote name='Grum' post='1384544' date='Dec 22 2008, 05:30 AM']3M Scotch-Weld DP810 on the tour vans. Pricey stuff. $20 for 1.7 oz[/quote]Best epoxy period[/quote]+2 on that one. You can get it for like $13-$15 straight from 3M. I ordered my last tube straight from them.

[CarloGolfer]

GolfWorks Tour Set Epoxy Plus

Others have mentioned it and I'll give it my endorsement as well. You get a 20-30 minute gel time and it cures in 60-90 minutes. I always let mine sit overnight. Comes in easy to use tubes, you can make alot or a little. It was recommended here on the site by a few people.

[TXGOLFJUNKIE]

I used the Golfsmith 30/60 last night. For some reason it didn't set. This morning I woke up and it's still gooey/easy to move around. Did I not mix it enough or was it the fact that i applied it in the garage when the temp was around 52*? Sorry, I just started doing self repairs in the spring and haven't dealt with the cold in Houston yet. Thanks for your help in advance.

[AcesAZ]

You need to use it above 70 degrees.

[aussieb]

Any of you guys used a product from Pol Lux Labs? I requested a sample and a data sheet on it. No mix, 15 min set, no waste. Prep with alcohol, acetone for cleanup. Seems to be doing well in my builds at $4 per ounce. Used the Mitchell 3M DP810 previously. Both work. I just hate mixing up regular epoxies, then throwing half of it away when I'm done.

[drpino]

CONAP is good stuff too... very thick and not necessarily the easiest to work with but the fact it's not as thin as some others makes it easy to set clubs and not worry about twisting.

[TKing]

I bought some of the DP810 to try and after trying it, I'm a convert. It is much easier to clean up after a pull and seems to release earlier than epoxy with less heat but can take a pounding and not release in a club.

I had a non-easy open one but that was probably just the particular dual cartridge that I received. It has opened easily every time since the first time. I wanted to try it before my gun came. At first while left out in the shop in the cold it was not possible but once left in the house to warm up to room temperature both parts can easily be pushed out by finger pressure. The gun does make it a lot easier with less worry about the right mix and less waste but it holds fine anyway.

I'll probably stick to the cheaper spread if I do a set of irons, but for my many shaft trials in woods I'll us DP810.