Instructions for reshafting Persimmon

[flaun]

Looking for some help or an online resource...

Hey Classic Junkies,

My buddies and I started playing a "Throwback Open" 2 years ago using pre 80's irons and only Persimmon woods. I've been gaming my Dad's first set of Doug Sanders Ram clubs he bought new in 197X (he doesn't remember exactly, LOL). All of the clubs are serviceable except the driver. The shaft is very whippy and I overpower it every time. It's got to be a regular or weaker shaft.

Anyway, I'd love to reshaft just this club so that I can actually swing at a decent pace (driver SS=108-112). I've done just about everything to modern clubs except grinding, but I don't want to tear the club apart trying to figure out how to reshaft it. Can anyone point me in a good direction?

Thanks!

[farmer]

First, be sure that you can get a shaft that matches the head. Sometimes, companies put proprietary shafts in clubs that don't match modern tips and tapers. If it is NOT a bore through shaft, get a long, really long drill bit and cut the back pin. The outside of the back pin, (it's actually a screw) should be loose enough to pull from the back of the head. When the cut pin is out of the head, take a small pin punch and drive the remaining part of the pin into the head far enough for the shaft to clear. Be careful not to drive it too far. Now remove the whipping cover, if it has one, and remove the whipping. Take a long steel rod that will fit into the bottom of the shaft, heat it and insert to the bottom to break the epoxy bond. On a club this old, the epoxy is probably already compromised, so be careful with the heat because you can burn the inside of the hosel. Put the shaft in a clamp and pull the head. Most likely you will have to twist it and be prepared for some damage to the head, probably a split, but this will be fixed when you install the new shaft. Then rough the tip of the new shaft, epoxy it into place, butt trim to length, re-whip, grip and you're ready to go. It is possible that you can unscrew the back pin, but unlikely, and you don't have to replace it. If it is a bore through head, you do the same things, but from the bottom of the club. A crack in the neck is not a major problem, but if it is broken through the heel, that is a major fix. You will have to get some whipping and learn how to put it on, which is not hard, but requires some practice. I think I remembered everything, but PersimmonPal or someone will chime in.

[teevons]

More than likely you will also need to bore out the hosel to make a new shaft fit, be careful not to do too much at a time or it will really crack the neck. The older persimmons took a smaller tip shaft that no one sells anymore. Tape up the neck real good, it is good to start with step pattern drills which are hard to find but just don't try to do to much. You can put graphite or any type of shaft you want in as long as the hosel has been bored to fit it. you do not need to re-pin it as that was done before the high strength epoxy we have now is available. also if it is a bore through, the shaft you use is going to be stiffer than what you think the shaft says
If you are real careful you can try not to do much damage to the finish but more than likely it is going to need a refinish job after.

I think there is a whipping instruction on YouTube by persimmonpal Good Luck





.[quote name='farmer' timestamp='1316657085' post='3581307']
First, be sure that you can get a shaft that matches the head. Sometimes, companies put proprietary shafts in clubs that don't match modern tips and tapers. If it is NOT a bore through shaft, get a long, really long drill bit and cut the back pin. The outside of the back pin, (it's actually a screw) should be loose enough to pull from the back of the head. When the cut pin is out of the head, take a small pin punch and drive the remaining part of the pin into the head far enough for the shaft to clear. Be careful not to drive it too far. Now remove the whipping cover, if it has one, and remove the whipping. Take a long steel rod that will fit into the bottom of the shaft, heat it and insert to the bottom to break the epoxy bond. On a club this old, the epoxy is probably already compromised, so be careful with the heat because you can burn the inside of the hosel. Put the shaft in a clamp and pull the head. Most likely you will have to twist it and be prepared for some damage to the head, probably a split, but this will be fixed when you install the new shaft. Then rough the tip of the new shaft, epoxy it into place, butt trim to length, re-whip, grip and you're ready to go. It is possible that you can unscrew the back pin, but unlikely, and you don't have to replace it. If it is a bore through head, you do the same things, but from the bottom of the club. A crack in the neck is not a major problem, but if it is broken through the heel, that is a major fix. You will have to get some whipping and learn how to put it on, which is not hard, but requires some practice. I think I remembered everything, but PersimmonPal or someone will chime in.
[/quote]

[jkumpire]

fl,

IMO I wouldn't touch that job with a 10 foot pole. Find a person who does this for a living to do the work for you.

[rileyj]

Hello,

I'm in the process of designing a site to serve as a hub for lovers of the traditional form of the game: persimmon woods and forged blades. The goal is to unite all the individual persimmon players across the united states and abroad while also promoting competitions and a rebirth of long irons and shotmaking in the modern era. Again, the site is under development and will actually be moving locations shortly BUT I happened to add a guide to reshafting (and changing the lie angle) of a persimmon wood so if you are interested please check the front page out and download the pdf if you want.

When the site is more fully developed I'll circle back and get the word out proper. The modern game is hurting with 7300 yrd courses and 5.5 hr rounds. Courses require too much water, maintenance, and the costs are forwarded to the golfer as green fees. Change is coming....

Here's the (interim) site:

[url="http://www.persimmongolf.wordpress.com/"]Persimmon Golf Today[/url]

[Bella Woods]

Did anyone get the chance to see how the backscrew was
removed from the Titleist persimmon driver on the
Persimmon Golf Today website?

Just wondering what everyone thinks!

Wow!

[astamm8]

[quote name='Bella Woods' timestamp='1317076111' post='3592828']
Did anyone get the chance to see how the backscrew was
removed from the Titleist persimmon driver on the
Persimmon Golf Today website?

Just wondering what everyone thinks!

Wow!
[/quote]

I greatly enjoyed the pictorial. But, that seemed a little... I don't know extreme?!?! I've never pulled one myself, but plenty of people seem to be able to get them out in a less impactful way. I wouldn't want that done to a treasured driver, but maybe that's not what he was going for.

[teevons]

Yes, I threw up in my mouth!!
I just reshafted 4 Macgregor M85TW for a friend that wanted original Macgregor shafts with cord grips put on , as his had very pitted shafts and had bad grips. 2 of the pins would not come out, even with drilling, so I just took a small punch and drove them through, then redrilled the shaft and the pins were gone, no biggy.
Worse case scenario is you just leave the pin in as long as the shaft will pull out.
I have reshafted 100's of wooden clubs and have never had to do that to a back of a neck. Everyone is taught different I guess.




[quote name='Bella Woods' timestamp='1317076111' post='3592828']
Did anyone get the chance to see how the backscrew was
removed from the Titleist persimmon driver on the
Persimmon Golf Today website?

Just wondering what everyone thinks!

Wow!
[/quote]

[vision541]

I want to re-shaft my Louisville 50 5 wood.....are there any shafts that you recommend?

Thanks

Peter

[Blade Junkie]

Peter, seeing as Louisville Golf are still very much alive and in business, I'd be inclined to give them a call for some advice, or even to do the work. They still make/sell the Classic 50s range.

[robert horneman]

Could someone help me find the pictorial about removing a backscrew from a Titleist club on the Persimmon Golf Today website?

I searched everyting I could think of but could not find it. Like Teevons I have rehafted 100s of clubs with back screws with no problems. Just wonder what the problem was.

Thanks

[rtv]

Robert, I believe this is what you're after http://persimmongolftoday.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Complete-Guide-to-Modifying-the-Lie-Angle-of-a-Persimmon-Wood.pdf

[robert horneman]

Thanks rtv,

This guy is a BUTCHER!!. I wouldn't let him within 19' of one of my clubs! What a total amatuer.

I am surprised he didn't just cut the neck off below the back screw.

He sanded the head with 100 grit paper!!! I dont know why he didn't use a hand held sander like they use on car bodies.

He filed the face,which is ok. He left file marks and he probably ruined the bulge and roll.

The blending of the neck is terrible.

His whipping is unexceptable.

That big scare on the neck is hideous and then he clear coats it! He should have painted it black to cover up his mistakes.

He ruined the club.

I guess as long he did this for himself it's ok.
I wish he hadn't made a pictorial of how BAD he is. I hope no one who wants to learn clubmaking sees this. Or they should watch it to see how not to work on clubs.

Sorry for the rant,I just couldn't help myself

[teevons]

Like you said he did it for himself and did say the project was for making a flat lie and the refinish job happened after.

I used to just put them in the vise , protect the head and just bend the shaft and head till you got the lie you wanted.

I remember reading in some Hogan book about a member that asked Hogan for help with his errant tee shots. Hogan took him into the shop at the club and put the members club head in a vice and bent the head in an extreme postition to make it closed or open, whatever the member wanted I cant remember , It scared the hell out of the member and he never could hit the club again!!