Installing Graphite Shafts PING G’s question

crperry00crperry00 chipperry00NCClubWRX Posts: 225 ClubWRX
Hey guys,



I’m installing a set of steelfiber i110’s in my PING G irons. I’ve reshafted ping’s in the past so I know that the last 1/4” has a different taper and with steel shafts they have to be forced in to fit properly.



It’s my understanding that with graphite the easiest thing to do is add a little extra taper on the last 1/4” of the tip to allow it to fit properly. I wanted to verify that was correct and I was hoping someone might have some pics of how they trimmed the shafts to make them fit correctly.



Thanks guys!

PING G400 LST 8.5 Hzrdus T1100 65
Taylormade M1 15* Kiyoshi White 75
Taylormade M1 19* Hzrdus Black 75
Srixon z765 4-PW Recoil Prototype 125
Cleveland RTX-4 50/54/60
Odyssey O-Works Tank Cruiser #7

Comments

  • TheBIIgCatTheBIIgCat ClubWRX Posts: 1,445 ClubWRX
    edited Sep 15, 2018 #2
    Yes that is correct. I have done a few sets this way. Just sand down the last 1/8 inch of the tip, wipe tip with acetone and install
    Driver- TC Epic 440 with Hzrdus T1100<br />3-Wood- 13 Degree Ping stretch with Ping Tour 75x<br />Hybrid- 915 with Graphite Design Tour AD DI 85<br />Irons- ( 4-PW ) JPX 900 Forged with 110s Steelfibers - Wedges- Sm6 Vokey 48 bent 2 degrees strong - sm6 vokey raw 56 bent to 55 , 58 Raw Low Bounce K grind ( 110 Steelfibers in all wedges same length shafts )<br />Putter- Scotty Cameron Laguna 1.5 Studio Torch Finish that I did...
  • crperry00crperry00 chipperry00 NCClubWRX Posts: 225 ClubWRX
    TheBIIgCat wrote:
    Yes that is correct. I have done a few sets this way. Just sand down the last 1/8 inch of the tip, wipe tip with acetone and install




    Should it fit very snug like steel or should it just slide in?
    PING G400 LST 8.5 Hzrdus T1100 65
    Taylormade M1 15* Kiyoshi White 75
    Taylormade M1 19* Hzrdus Black 75
    Srixon z765 4-PW Recoil Prototype 125
    Cleveland RTX-4 50/54/60
    Odyssey O-Works Tank Cruiser #7
  • NessismNessism To measure is to know... Members Posts: 18,188 ✭✭
    I make them so they are snug but slide in.



    Steelfiber 110's have a high balance point so swingweighting may be a bit of a challenge. Be sure to check swingweight before gluing up the clubs. You may need to use tip weights.
    Ping G400 driver w/Adila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
    TEE XCG6 3 & 5 fairway woods & Srizon U85 3U
    Ping G25, G410, or i200 irons (depending on mood)
    Ping Glide 50/55/60 wedges 
    Ping Anser putter - the "real deal!"
  • crperry00crperry00 chipperry00 NCClubWRX Posts: 225 ClubWRX
    Gotcha I will make sure to check that. Thanks for the tip!
    PING G400 LST 8.5 Hzrdus T1100 65
    Taylormade M1 15* Kiyoshi White 75
    Taylormade M1 19* Hzrdus Black 75
    Srixon z765 4-PW Recoil Prototype 125
    Cleveland RTX-4 50/54/60
    Odyssey O-Works Tank Cruiser #7
  • Radeon962Radeon962 ClubWRX Posts: 1,911 ClubWRX
    Nessism wrote:


    I make them so they are snug but slide in.



    Steelfiber 110's have a high balance point so swingweighting may be a bit of a challenge. Be sure to check swingweight before gluing up the clubs. You may need to use tip weights.




    Ness, what's your trick for getting them snug with a tip weight but still getting them to seat fully?



    I have had issues with tip weights creating an air pocket and pushing the shaft out slightly.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 22,876 ✭✭
    First get a good fit w/o the tip weight, then you should only need to add a small additional tip trim to account for the amount the tip weight extends pas the tip. So the amount will depend on the type of tip weight used. e.g. the brass tip weights for graphite from Hireko and Billy Bob's don't really need any added tip trim. The 2-4 gm lead weights need only about 1/8". 6 gm lead or the tungsten/rubber might need up to 1/4".


    Radeon962 wrote:


    I have had issues with tip weights creating an air pocket and pushing the shaft out slightly.




    Which tip weights were you using?



    Most should have an air channel but that can get plugged up with epoxy if you load up too much in the hosel before inserting the shaft. It could also be an issue of needing to open up the ID of the shaft to better accommodate the tip weight stem.
  • Radeon962Radeon962 ClubWRX Posts: 1,911 ClubWRX
    Stuart G. wrote:


    First get a good fit w/o the tip weight, then you should only need to add a small additional tip trim to account for the amount the tip weight extends pas the tip. So the amount will depend on the type of tip weight used. e.g. the brass tip weights for graphite from Hireko and Billy Bob's don't really need any added tip trim. The 2-4 gm lead weights need only about 1/8". 6 gm lead or the tungsten/rubber might need up to 1/4".


    Radeon962 wrote:


    I have had issues with tip weights creating an air pocket and pushing the shaft out slightly.




    Which tip weights were you using?



    Most should have an air channel but that can get plugged up with epoxy if you load up too much in the hosel before inserting the shaft. It could also be an issue of needing to open up the ID of the shaft to better accommodate the tip weight stem.




    Brass which seem or have the smallest air channel.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 22,876 ✭✭
    Radeon962 wrote:

    Stuart G. wrote:


    Most should have an air channel but that can get plugged up with epoxy if you load up too much in the hosel before inserting the shaft. It could also be an issue of needing to open up the ID of the shaft to better accommodate the tip weight stem.




    Brass which seem or have the smallest air channel.




    Then it's likely getting plugged up with the epoxy so I'd suggest paying attention to the two things I mentioned above.
  • NessismNessism To measure is to know... Members Posts: 18,188 ✭✭
    I hate building graphite shafted irons when big swingweight issues present themselves because it's such a pain to get tip weights to play nice due to issues being mentioned here. Some clubs like Ping's have a low insertion depth so I don't like giving up that for the (large) head of the common graphite shaft tip weight. And of course there is that air lock issue that often presents itself regardless of how carefully we try to avoid it. I've resorted to sticking the weight down into the hosel before the shaft even, but then getting the stem of the weight into the center of the shaft is another pain to deal with.
    Ping G400 driver w/Adila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
    TEE XCG6 3 & 5 fairway woods & Srizon U85 3U
    Ping G25, G410, or i200 irons (depending on mood)
    Ping Glide 50/55/60 wedges 
    Ping Anser putter - the "real deal!"
  • sdandreasdandrea Steve Members Posts: 2,329 ✭✭
    edited Sep 17, 2018 #11
    Nessism wrote:


    I hate building graphite shafted irons when big swingweight issues present themselves because it's such a pain to get tip weights to play nice due to issues being mentioned here. Some clubs like Ping's have a low insertion depth so I don't like giving up that for the (large) head of the common graphite shaft tip weight. And of course there is that air lock issue that often presents itself regardless of how carefully we try to avoid it. I've resorted to sticking the weight down into the hosel before the shaft even, but then getting the stem of the weight into the center of the shaft is another pain to deal with.




    Same experience here, especially with installing graphite in older PING irons with no ferrules. I have found it easier to add weight using lead tape in the cavities. It's not pretty but I'm happier with the shaft installation and I can tweak the swingweights just right.
    Cobra Max 10.5*
    The Perfect Club 21*
    Cobra Baffler 5h
    PING Eye 2 6-SW
    Scotty Fastback
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