Can you remove the sole plate from a Cameron X7M?

[Justmuckit]

Anyone try, or have any luck?

 

I've removed the 4 screws on the sole, but no movement. Is there a trick to it because of the rails on the top side?

[Justmuckit]

 

Looks like the plate is one piece, but I have no clue how the hell it would slide off.

[Etiger83]

I think there is double sided tape holding it on. Try a heat gun or blow dryer to break the bond

[Justmuckit]

I think there is double sided tape holding it on. Try a heat gun or blow dryer to break the bond

 

Thought that might be the case.

 

Has anyone stripped the paintfill from one? Is Tal-strip safe to use on the finish?

[Justmuckit]

Damn. I've got the head hot to the touch and that plate isn't budging.

[oneaugusta]

You may want to try what is done with the Odyssey face inserts, hot boiling water for a few minutes to release the tape, there's a video of a member doing this with repeatable success.

[Justmuckit]

You may want to try what is done with the Odyssey face inserts, hot boiling water for a few minutes to release the tape, there's a video of a member doing this with repeatable success.

 

Great tip. Worked great.

 

Now just have to get the balls to test the tal-strip. Guess now that the plate is off, I can test on a part that's not visible when attached.

[TPDawnPatrol]

I think there is double sided tape holding it on. Try a heat gun or blow dryer to break the bond

 

Oh, you mean the vibration dampening technology?

[RookieBlue7]

They come apart. Oh, and there is one piece that's vibration dampening, it's blue rubbery-foam behind the impact area on the face only.

[RookieBlue7]

You may want to try what is done with the Odyssey face inserts, hot boiling water for a few minutes to release the tape, there's a video of a member doing this with repeatable success.

 

Great tip. Worked great.

 

Now just have to get the balls to test the tal-strip. Guess now that the plate is off, I can test on a part that's not visible when attached.

 

They're anodized, talstrip isn't going to do anything to that. It'll remove the paintfill, that's it. It'll also eat all the double sided tape off and the blue rubbery piece will melt

[oneaugusta]

Oven cleaner will remove the anodized, done it several times, takes about 15 or 20 minutes.

[RookieBlue7]

Yep, but he was asking about TalStrip is why I said what I said.

[TPDawnPatrol]

I should have clarified, it's not just any old vibration dampening technology, it's HIGH TECH vibration dampening material, according to Golfalot. My bad.

 

A piece of blue foam. Novel concept. :swoon:

[Justmuckit]

They come apart. Oh, and there is one piece that's vibration dampening, it's blue rubbery-foam behind the impact area on the face only.

 

That must be built into the plate, because there's nothing like that on mine. There's nothing behind the face but about 1/4" of aluminum and then the cherry bombs.

 

There are three pieces of double sided tape that help secure the face. You can see two of them in the picture, and there's a very thin strip that goes in that recess between the face and the bombs. Nothing foam like, just tape.

[pcew73]

I may be wrong but didn't they just use the vibratation dampening material only in the selects that have the new insert? I've seen it in the select videos but not these.

[RookieBlue7]

Its been in every one of the Golo's I've disassembled and the one of these I took apart had a strip at the top between the dots and the face across the top.

[JermWRX]

I see this is an old thread, but I just bought a X7M DB putter that I’d like to freshen up. If I use acetone to remove the paint fill, will it damage the black part of the sole? Or is that the anodized part you guys are talking about? I’m looking to buff out dings, and then repaint. Any tips? Thanks!

[kb7]

33 minutes ago, JermWRX said:

I see this is an old thread, but I just bought a X7M DB putter that I’d like to freshen up. If I use acetone to remove the paint fill, will it damage the black part of the sole? Or is that the anodized part you guys are talking about? I’m looking to buff out dings, and then repaint. Any tips? Thanks!

 

The black sole/face would be the anodized part. I would think about an alternate finish for that over paint as it will see the most wear in contact with the ground. Anodizing is great and will wear well, but if you don't have access to someone to strip the current anno and reapply, you'll have to look at some other options. I have had great results with cerakote on putters. It also will be much thinner of a coating than paint. 

[JermWRX]

Sorry, I must not have phrased that properly. I’m looking to keep the anodized as is, but I like to sand out dings from the steel, and then paint fill. I was making sure that the acetone used to clean out the paint wouldn’t damage the black anodized part. I’ve watched a few videos, but they were on solid steel putters. This is my first try at this. Any advice on sanding out dings? Any info on refinishing would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[kb7]

42 minutes ago, JermWRX said:

Sorry, I must not have phrased that properly. I’m looking to keep the anodized as is, but I like to sand out dings from the steel, and then paint fill. I was making sure that the acetone used to clean out the paint wouldn’t damage the black anodized part. I’ve watched a few videos, but they were on solid steel putters. This is my first try at this. Any advice on sanding out dings? Any info on refinishing would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

No problem. You can soak the sole plate/face in acetone to loosen paint fill and not damage the anodizing. 
 

for sending out dings on steel, I like to color them with sharpie and hand sand. The sharpie allows you to see how much more you have to go before the ding is gone. You can also file, but I prefer to stick to sanding. 

 

Once you get the surface smooth, you can prep for finish. Different finishes will require different prep. What were you hoping to do for a finish?

 

I don’t know a ton, but if I’m able to help I will. Feel free to pm me, or maybe @oneaugusta will chime in as he does great work. 

[JermWRX]

5 hours ago, kb7 said:

 

No problem. You can soak the sole plate/face in acetone to loosen paint fill and not damage the anodizing. 
 

for sending out dings on steel, I like to color them with sharpie and hand sand. The sharpie allows you to see how much more you have to go before the ding is gone. You can also file, but I prefer to stick to sanding. 

 

Once you get the surface smooth, you can prep for finish. Different finishes will require different prep. What were you hoping to do for a finish?

 

I don’t know a ton, but if I’m able to help I will. Feel free to pm me, or maybe @oneaugusta will chime in as he does great work. 

Sharpie trick sounds awesome. Thanks! I was planning on hand sanding with 400-800. Then polish and buff it. I’m not sure what I need for a finish. I thought about doing a cold blueing, but I read that can’t be done on stainless steel. At least not in a home diy form. With the fact that it’s a stainless head, does it necessarily even need a finish?