HELP Miura Blades Information + Suggestions

[Rick_Golf17]

Hello WRXer's, 

 

Let me preface and state that I have read the majority of all the previous threads as well as previous articles on WRX in regards to Miura blades and suggestions, but I wanted to open up another discussion to see what other opinions I can generate specific to my situation. I appreciate all opinions and suggestions in advance! 

 

Going into the 2021 season of golf I finally decided that I wanted to pursue playing a Miura iron, and iron that I have always admired wanted to try, but never seriously looked into as buying a new set from factory was not in my cards at the time. Moving forward I was able to come across a good deal for some lightly used Miura Tournament Blade heads, which I have come across on the forums were produced until about 2013-2014 until the MB001 were released with their new sole design. Although these Tournament Blades were in very good condition, my OCD for having nice clean tools kicked in and for the price I purchased them for I planned to have them sent out for restoration (re-plating, sandblasted face, grooves etc.) to have them ideally factory fresh. 

 

Super excited about this decision and process, I started to read more and more discussions and opinions throughout the forums which started to scramble my brain and question the path I was going down. I personally think the Tournament Blades were some of the best looking offerings from Miura along with the 1957 Baby Blades as well as the 2.0 Baby Blades. Although, the information on the Tournament Blades is scarce on the forums and is hard to get peoples experience or objective data with them other than if you have a steep swing these will tend to dig into to the ground. I was looking and am still looking for more information beyond that.  

 

I have recently come across another opportunity to pick up some 1957 Baby Blade heads and am in question on what to do in regards to my Tournament Blades. Do I send the Tournament Blades out for restoration making them basically factory fresh and play them like I initially intended or do I grab the 1957 Baby Blades and go that route for similar price points/money spent?

 

I look forward too hearing everyones opinions and thoughts and hopefully I can get some information for people that have played the Tournament Blades along with other offerings from Miura like the Baby Blades etc. Thank you guys in advance I appreciate your time and opinions/suggestions.  

[animalgolfs]

If you play the majority of your golfing rounds on manicured fairways,  tournament blades

 

 

If the above isn't true......baby blades 100%

[gators78]

2-W 1957 Blades owner here. Tough one for me to answer because it's such a unique club, people can fall in love with that design and I understand it, however if I did it over again I would go for Tournament blade. The 1957 is such an extreme version of a blade it's almost like a training aid. The sweet spot to hosel distance is so small that I would hit be on the toe side of the sweet spot and hit a lot of overdraws...at least that's my best guess as to what was going on. My shot shaping turned into a draw, or bigger draw. 

 

I still have the set, still get asked about them, but I'm happy with a more stock blade. 

[Pepperturbo]

Before buying my 620 series I considered Miura blades.  I have been playing blades since taking up the game.  That may or may not tell you something.  In other words, it's not a passing fancy for me.  Titleist 620 MBs and Miura MBs have one thing in common, they feel really soft at impact, whisper to your hands, it takes a good strike to make'em sing to you. 

 

The mistake most people make is they buy with their eyes, without hitting them.  They are pretty to look down at and get attention from good golfers, but they will test your ball striking skill, patience and attention to details, as a good strike is in the details.

[Tree Levino]

The MB001 are the best of all IMO. The Baby Blade is minuscule and the sweet spot is near a shank. The tournament blades dig trenches like they were born to be a back hoe. The MB 001 with its leading edge relief is amazing and they’re actually quite forgiving for a blade. 

[Rick_Golf17]

20 hours ago, animalgolfs said:

If you play the majority of your golfing rounds on manicured fairways,  tournament blades

 

 

If the above isn't true......baby blades 100%

 

Yeah its hit and miss, I try and play a lot of different courses throughout the year as well as new ones, some are very nice and others are not bad but not the best in relation to the really premium ones. 

 

Thank you for you feedback! 

[Rick_Golf17]

18 hours ago, gators78 said:

2-W 1957 Blades owner here. Tough one for me to answer because it's such a unique club, people can fall in love with that design and I understand it, however if I did it over again I would go for Tournament blade. The 1957 is such an extreme version of a blade it's almost like a training aid. The sweet spot to hosel distance is so small that I would hit be on the toe side of the sweet spot and hit a lot of overdraws...at least that's my best guess as to what was going on. My shot shaping turned into a draw, or bigger draw. 

 

I still have the set, still get asked about them, but I'm happy with a more stock blade. 

 

I appreciate your feedback! Something I will for sure have to keep in mind. I may have an opportunity this week to hit my friends 1957 Baby Blades on a simulator, hopefully I can do that to get some preliminary testing with Baby Blades before I make my decision. 

[Rick_Golf17]

18 hours ago, Pepperturbo said:

Before buying my 620 series I considered Miura blades.  I have been playing blades since taking up the game.  That may or may not tell you something.  In other words, it's not a passing fancy for me.  Titleist 620 MBs and Miura MBs have one thing in common, they feel really soft at impact, whisper to your hands, it takes a good strike to make'em sing to you. 

 

The mistake most people make is they buy with their eyes, without hitting them.  They are pretty to look down at and get attention from good golfers, but they will test your ball striking skill, patience and attention to details, as a good strike is in the details.

 

I agree with you and 620's is a great looking head very similar lines to the Miura Blade offerings, in my opinion. I agree, ideally I would love to go test out everything prior to purchase and I actually have a scheduled appointment with True Spec in a month for an Iron Blueprint and fitting. Unfortunately, in my case True Spec only has up to date offerings and new equipment so the 1957 BB and especially the Tournament Blades would not be there for a direct comparison and buying and new factory set is just currently out of my price range at this time. I can assume the new Miura Baby Blades 2.0 are the same as the 1957 BB just with a revised finish, so that would be nice to hit, but then again the Tournament blade would not be there, just Miura current offerings.  Thus, me reaching out the WRX people that I know have had experience with these clubs and maybe to point me in the right direction! 

 

I appreciate you comment and feedback! Thanks! 

[nitram]

2 hours ago, TigerInTheWoods said:

The MB001 are the best of all IMO. The Baby Blade is minuscule and the sweet spot is near a shank. The tournament blades dig trenches like they were born to be a back hoe. The MB 001 with its leading edge relief is amazing and they’re actually quite forgiving for a blade. 

Nailed it. The MB001's incorporated the "Y Grind" and IMHO, it's the best all-around grind Miura has developed.

[Rick_Golf17]

2 hours ago, TigerInTheWoods said:

The MB001 are the best of all IMO. The Baby Blade is minuscule and the sweet spot is near a shank. The tournament blades dig trenches like they were born to be a back hoe. The MB 001 with its leading edge relief is amazing and they’re actually quite forgiving for a blade. 

 

Hahaha, I figured and I was hoping I would see you in here! Like I said in my original post, I tried to do my research throughout the forums on WRX in regards to Miura's etc and believe I basically have gone through 90-95% of it and I always saw you in there with the similar opinion, trench diggers! Honestly, your comment definitely had me concerned, although I do not believe I have that steep of a swing so I would hope I won't be digging graves in the fairways in I decide to go the Tournament Blade option haha! 

 

I am curious what Miura offerings have you played in the past? I appreciate your feedback, thanks! 

[Rick_Golf17]

5 minutes ago, nitram said:

Nailed it. The MB001's incorporated the "Y Grind" and IMHO, it's the best all-around grind Miura has developed.

 

This is one thing I defiantly want to put more time to understand is different grinds and reasons for choosing one grind over another? Is is due to your mechanics as a player? Types of courses you play? Feel? Spin rates etc.?

 

If you don't mind, could you link me or point me in the right direction to learn from a credible source about grinds, or you could explain what you now and understand yourself. Thanks for your feedback! 

[Tree Levino]

2 minutes ago, Rick_Golf17 said:

 

This is one thing I defiantly want to put more time to understand is different grinds and reasons for choosing one grind over another? Is is due to your mechanics as a player? Types of courses you play? Feel? Spin rates etc.?

 

If you don't mind, could you link me or point me in the right direction to learn from a credible source about grinds, or you could explain what you now and understand yourself. Thanks for your feedback! 

 

TXG has tons of good info in their iron fitting videos. Check out the 620 line where they talk about how well the MB gets through the turf. 

[Rick_Golf17]

1 minute ago, TigerInTheWoods said:

 

TXG has tons of good info in their iron fitting videos. Check out the 620 line where they talk about how well the MB gets through the turf. 

 

Be fan of TXG, I know that they have discussed sole design and turf interaction throughout different videos, but I can't remember a video designated to specific grinds and information. I will have to look for it thanks! 

[sjdy34]

Play the MC 501 in 4 and 5 iron and the MB 101 in the 6-W.  Happy with the makeup but really love the MB 101.  Traditional looking and not heavy turf interaction (I have a shallow attack angle) with plenty of forgiveness as a single digit. 

 

[lefthack]

1 hour ago, Rick_Golf17 said:

 

This is one thing I defiantly want to put more time to understand is different grinds and reasons for choosing one grind over another? Is is due to your mechanics as a player? Types of courses you play? Feel? Spin rates etc.?

 

If you don't mind, could you link me or point me in the right direction to learn from a credible source about grinds, or you could explain what you now and understand yourself. Thanks for your feedback! 

 

I'm no expert in the grinds but my reading and understanding is a combo of your swing type and where you play as to the grind that fits your game.

 

Do you sweep the ball, or do you take a good sized pelt? Different grinds interact with the turf differently, so depending on the swing and the type of turf you are interacting with can dictate the grind that suites you.

[Rick_Golf17]

1 hour ago, sjdy34 said:

Play the MC 501 in 4 and 5 iron and the MB 101 in the 6-W.  Happy with the makeup but really love the MB 101.  Traditional looking and not heavy turf interaction (I have a shallow attack angle) with plenty of forgiveness as a single digit. 

 

 

I appreciate your feedback I will deficiently take it into consideration! Definitely, just interested in playing a full blade set at the moment, but that could change overtime! Really just have to solve if I want to start with refinishing and coating my Tournament Blades or source something else to start, or potentially both! 

[Rick_Golf17]

40 minutes ago, lefthack said:

 

I'm no expert in the grinds but my reading and understanding is a combo of your swing type and where you play as to the grind that fits your game.

 

Do you sweep the ball, or do you take a good sized pelt? Different grinds interact with the turf differently, so depending on the swing and the type of turf you are interacting with can dictate the grind that suites you.

 

I appreciate the feedback! Yeah, I am definitely not a sweeper, but definitely grinds are something I have to look more into and do some research on. Thanks! 

[lefthack]

18 minutes ago, Rick_Golf17 said:

 

I appreciate the feedback! Yeah, I am definitely not a sweeper, but definitely grinds are something I have to look more into and do some research on. Thanks! 

 

This is what started me down the rabbit hole. My swing is kind of a mix, I tend to take a bit more off the shorter the club, sweeping longer irons. But the more I learn, the more I pay attention. They say you can learn a lot from your divot and they weren't lying. 🤣

 

<Edit> I'm also lusting after a set of CB's, maybe a CB/MB combo so I have been learning about the grinds.

Edited March 5, 2021 by lefthack

[Pepperturbo]

1 hour ago, Rick_Golf17 said:

 

I agree with you and 620's is a great looking head very similar lines to the Miura Blade offerings, in my opinion. I agree, ideally I would love to go test out everything prior to purchase and I actually have a scheduled appointment with True Spec in a month for an Iron Blueprint and fitting. Unfortunately, in my case True Spec only has up to date offerings and new equipment so the 1957 BB and especially the Tournament Blades would not be there for a direct comparison and buying and new factory set is just currently out of my price range at this time. I can assume the new Miura Baby Blades 2.0 are the same as the 1957 BB just with a revised finish, so that would be nice to hit, but then again the Tournament blade would not be there, just Miura current offerings.  Thus, me reaching out the WRX people that I know have had experience with these clubs and maybe to point me in the right direction! 

 

I appreciate you comment and feedback! Thanks! 

As long as I have been playing MBs, honestly, I don't know HOW to convey their differences, as opposed to CB's.  Design characteristics of MBs are much simpler.  The sweet spot of contemporary MBs is a tad larger and more centered between the heel and toe, maybe a fraction back from the face, even lower, which makes them easier to hit than older style blades.  My 620's feel more like the 57 BB, takes a better more solid strike on the sweet spot to realize the clubs distance.    Older style blades, the sweet spot was dime size, and a tad closer towards the heel, closer to the face, and higher which lead to lower trajectory's vs. higher trajectories of contemporary blades. 

 

IMO - What we buy should come down to how effective our mechanics are, as mechanics make or break our enjoyment or frustration of certain clubs.  If I miss-hit a 620 MB club I lose about 10yds, but it still flies generally straight.  If I mishit a 620CB it's less than 10yrds still straight. 

[Rick_Golf17]

2 hours ago, lefthack said:

 

This is what started me down the rabbit hole. My swing is kind of a mix, I tend to take a bit more off the shorter the club, sweeping longer irons. But the more I learn, the more I pay attention. They say you can learn a lot from your divot and they weren't lying. 🤣

 

<Edit> I'm also lusting after a set of CB's, maybe a CB/MB combo so I have been learning about the grinds.

 

2 hours ago, Pepperturbo said:

As long as I have been playing MBs, honestly, I don't know HOW to convey their differences, as opposed to CB's.  Design characteristics of MBs are much simpler.  The sweet spot of contemporary MBs is a tad larger and more centered between the heel and toe, maybe a fraction back from the face, even lower, which makes them easier to hit than older style blades.  My 620's feel more like the 57 BB, takes a better more solid strike on the sweet spot to realize the clubs distance.    Older style blades, the sweet spot was dime size, and a tad closer towards the heel, closer to the face, and higher which lead to lower trajectory's vs. higher trajectories of contemporary blades. 

 

IMO - What we buy should come down to how effective our mechanics are, as mechanics make or break our enjoyment or frustration of certain clubs.  If I miss-hit a 620 MB club I lose about 10yds, but it still flies generally straight.  If I mishit a 620CB it's less than 10yrds still straight. 

 

Great point, I appreciate your feedback and information! 

[nitram]

Around 2010, the Miura's went to the US and Europe to see what conditions the professionals were encountering. After spending around six weeks they went back to Japan and designed what would become the 1957 series of irons and wedges. In these designs they incorporated to one degree or another the Y Grind in the irons and also part of the wedges. The other wedges offered were a C Grind. These irons include the MB001's, CB57's and Baby Blades. To this day the 001's, CB57's, and the "Yoshi" wedges are at the top of my list of all-time favorites. There is also a subtle difference in the metal of the pre-1957's and a distinct difference in the Miura offerings in the past couple of years. They are all solid, I just prefer the sound, feel, and performance of those from the 1957 series.

 

As far as grinds, I really can't offer a whole lot of advice to you as they are like cars. They will all work for you but you're going to prefer some over others for different reasons and you just need to spend the time and effort to evaluate them all.

 

 

 

 

 

Spoiler

 

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by nitram

[Rick_Golf17]

On 3/5/2021 at 3:54 PM, nitram said:

Around 2010, the Miura's went to the US and Europe to see what conditions the professionals were encountering. After spending around six weeks they went back to Japan and designed what would become the 1957 series of irons and wedges. In these designs they incorporated to one degree or another the Y Grind in the irons and also part of the wedges. The other wedges offered were a C Grind. These irons include the MB001's, CB57's and Baby Blades. To this day the 001's, CB57's, and the "Yoshi" wedges are at the top of my list of all-time favorites. There is also a subtle difference in the metal of the pre-1957's and a distinct difference in the Miura offerings in the past couple of years. They are all solid, I just prefer the sound, feel, and performance of those from the 1957 series.

 

As far as grinds, I really can't offer a whole lot of advice to you as they are like cars. They will all work for you but you're going to prefer some over others for different reasons and you just need to spend the time and effort to evaluate them all.

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the history and information, I did not know about this. I wish there was a way to access information about the heads I have to get a understanding of when the were produced. I was under the interpretation that the 1957 series was the original series withe the 1957 Baby Blade being one of the first models or original models released by Miura. 

 

Would love to have a side by side comparison of my Tournament Blades along with 1957 BB, MB001 and see if I can really distinguish a difference myself and see how my swing mechanics work with each, but having the ability to do that would be difficult. 

 

Thanks for the information!