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Head covers on irons and wedges?


hypergolf

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Never done this before.

 

Do the covers help to maintain the irons and wedges longer?

 

Usually won't place covers but thought covers should go on if using higher priced Miura forged irons and wedges.

 

Thanks.

Driver - Titleist TS3 9.5* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6x

3 wood - Titleist TS2 15* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7x

5wood - Titleist TS2 18* w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-8x

Irons - Srixon ZX7 4, Srixon Z Forged 5- PW w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus 3 Tour 120X

Gap Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore 52* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Sand Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore 58* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Lob Wedge - Cleveland RTX Zipcore Full Face 64* w/ Nippon NS Pro Modus Wedge 115

Putter - Bettinardi DASS Diamond Face BB8 w/ Stability Tour Black

Ball - Srixon Z Star

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1 minute ago, hypergolf said:

 

 

Do the covers help to maintain the irons and wedges longer?

 

 

 

No.

Cleveland TL310 10.5* driver

Cleveland HB Launcher 15* 3-wood

Srixon H65  19* 3 hybrid and 22* 4 hybrid

Mizuno MP63 5 thru 9-iron

Cleveland RTX 48-52-56-64 wedges

Scotty Cameron Classic III putter

 

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Minimizes bag chatter and on more GI clubs might prevent the fancy badges and paraphernalia that often come on GI and SGI clubs getting beaten up and falling off over time. 

Cobra King F9  Driver 10.5° Atmos Blue 6 stiff
17° Callaway X Hot 4 wood
3 (18°) & 4 (21°) Cleveland Halo XL hybrids
Srixon ZX5 5 - PW Modus 105 Regular 

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 48°/9° & 52°/11°, RTX 3 58°/9°
Ping Anser Sigma 2 putter

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A small college player that worked at a local golf shop used them like this: When he was getting his bag carrier ready for the equipment van, he would put plastic covers on all his irons. Then, when he picked up the clubs before the match, he would remove the plastic covers. After the match, he would clean the irons and put the plastic head covers back on to protect irons for return trip.

 

In reality, you are taking grassy divots with your irons throughout the round. How much protection can you give your garden tools? Personally, I opt for irons with brush nickel finish rather than chrome. Brush and satin finishes don't show bag clatter as much.

 

As a fellow player: If you are super organized mentally, and can take the covers off and on without losing them, go for it. But if you are one of these guys that leaves his pitching wedge greenside every other hole, please don't use iron covers! You don't have the organization for it...

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What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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1 hour ago, ChipNRun said:

A small college player that worked at a local golf shop used them like this: When he was getting his bag carrier ready for the equipment van, he would put plastic covers on all his irons. Then, when he picked up the clubs before the match, he would remove the plastic covers. After the match, he would clean the irons and put the plastic head covers back on to protect irons for return trip.

 

In reality, you are taking grassy divots with your irons throughout the round. How much protection can you give your garden tools? Personally, I opt for irons with brush nickel finish rather than chrome. Brush and satin finishes don't show bag clatter as much.

 

As a fellow player: If you are super organized mentally, and can take the covers off and on without losing them, go for it. But if you are one of these guys that leaves his pitching wedge greenside every other hole, please don't use iron covers! You don't have the organization for it...

 

I can't stand bag chatter on shiny forged blades so whenever I got a set of nice blades years ago I used covers but it got old quick. 

 

Eventually I started looking for a soft cast blade or cb and when I figured out that they almost feel as soft plus the mishits don't hurt as bad in the cold was sold. I currently am playing DCI 990B's based on researching the forum and I wished I had tried them many years ago. They still look great after 20+ years.

 

If I had to have a nice set of blades I would definitely go for the brushed finish and probably would get iron covers too.

 

 

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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I once had a set of Nicklaus Muirefield's in the 90's in really good condition. They were short but not that hard to hit actually for a blade. I do remember holing out from 205-210 yards with the 2 iron for a par on a par 5 where my first drive went OB. 

 

If I ever got a set of blades like those I certainly would have head covers, I just wouldn't play them all the time.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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I use them when I pack my forged clubs into my travel bag (for a little added protection) or if riding on a cart (seem to always drive into some hidden depression that compresses my spine and slams clubs together). Usually I walk with a push cart and don’t get a lot of chatter.

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Iron covers are definitely accessories a hacker would use.  That was a popular thread I started long ago.  Whenever I come across someone who insists on using them, I ask, "Do you intend to sell them?"  Even if that is the case, what is the point of having immaculate backs when the faces are worn out?

Edited by EmperorPenguin
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13 hours ago, chipa said:

If I had to have a nice set of blades I would definitely go for the brushed finish and probably would get iron covers too.

The satin finish is absolutely gorgeous and worth using iron covers, but as mentioned earlier it makes sense to use them while traveling or using on a bumpy course with a cart.  Usually when I do the latter I play with some cheap castings.

Edited by EmperorPenguin
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