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9 hours ago, DaveLeeNC said:

 

Altering lofts is pretty standard stuff out there. I have never heard anyone question conformance regarding that. How would that happen for the case of clubs in the GW/PW/9i range?

 

dave

Thanks.  So you are sure your altered clubs are still conforming which is really all I was asking as I don't know anything  much about the technical side of it.  I only know that changing the loft is a change to the playing characteristics of a club and if done the club still has to meet the conforming specs.  

 

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FWIW, 3* is a big deal - it just is. I have experimented on the range and liked the results but 10 swings at 12* and 10 swings at 9* on the range is not the same as 1 swing/1 swing on the course. The FA thing is there but is easily accommodated ON THE RANGE. On the course ?.?.?.

 

I am pretty good at hitting low shots on demand but I tend struggle a bit when doing that with a full swing ( I have kind of a handsey release and really don't have the desire/ability to make fundamental changes anymore). 

 

But I have decided not to go down this route for a related but different reason which is the optics of things. Even though I will not be competing against people who would care one way or the other, the actions are highly visible. And while I don't carry a sign saying "handicap round", for members (where we have literally THOUSANDS of then) having an index is way more common than at a typical US muni. 

 

So on to other thoughts. I still think that I don't need both a 3w and 5w but don't know what other club I might add. I play a GW at 50* and SW/LW at 54 and 58. I don't see another wedge being useful. If I were still carrying/walking (spinal stenosis nixed that one) I might consider dropping to 12 clubs just for reduced weight, although I never really noticed that when walking/carrying. 

 

Thanks for the input. 

 

dave

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I’d say, casual round/posting round, do it and post it. 
 

If you end up competing in a formal competition you won’t be able to do it, so I don’t see it as gaining an advantage in casual play that will game your cap and give you an advantage in competitions. 
 

Do it. Try it for a while. I’m sure the ratcheting the head on and off will get annoying within a round or two. Plus, when you’re having a good driving round, then you adjust it, and hit a terrible shot, you’ll be second guessing yourself. 
 

 

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  • 1 month later...

"So on to other thoughts. I still think that I don't need both a 3w and 5w but don't know what other club I might add."

 

Strong lofted 3wd or mini driver? 

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

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28 minutes ago, Klubster said:

This^^  And the reason I do not own an adjustable driver.  Get a fixed one that is right for you.

It's not the club that adjusts the loft, it's the player.  Adjusting to increase the loft closes the clubface, the player then adjusts his grip so the clubface is again square, which increases the apparent loft.

I agree with you - adjust it to the position it looks right for you when it's just sitting on the floor or ground (I hate closed clubfaces).

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1 hour ago, rogolf said:

It's not the club that adjusts the loft, it's the player.  Adjusting to increase the loft closes the clubface, the player then adjusts his grip so the clubface is again square, which increases the apparent loft.

I agree with you - adjust it to the position it looks right for you when it's just sitting on the floor or ground (I hate closed clubfaces).

 

That is my  understanding of how this works. Frist  take a adjustable  driver designed at 9 to 12* and set it to 12*. Then compare that result with the same model driver designed at 10.5* to 13.5* and set that up square with the loft also set at 12*. The difference will be in the lie angle (which in my mind is not all that important for a driver since my driver is never soled anyway). 

 

dave

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