When a .355 shaft with brass shim is too tight in a .370 hosel. What to do?

[CaymanS]

I have built maybe 5 or 6 sets of irons over the years using brass shims from Golfworks.  They take up the extra space when using a .355 taper shaft in a .370 hosel and they worked perfectly.  But not this time.  With shim in-place, I can't get the shafts in far enough before they get stuck roughly 1/4"~3/8" before the shaft is fully inserted.  Can the shims be modified or should I go with beads which seem hard to know when you are using the correct amount. 

 

Any advice is much appreciated. 

[kwcsports]

I sometimes nip off half the legs on the shim if it seems extra tight. 

[Ri_Redneck]

THIS /|\. You can also shim with kevlar fishing line by bending it over the shaft tip and holding while inserting and trimming after full insertion.

 

End of thread.

 

BT

[st1800e]

20 hours ago, CaymanS said:

I have built maybe 5 or 6 sets of irons over the years using brass shims from Golfworks.  They take up the extra space when using a .355 taper shaft in a .370 hosel and they worked perfectly.  But not this time.  With shim in-place, I can't get the shafts in far enough before they get stuck roughly 1/4"~3/8" before the shaft is fully inserted.  Can the shims be modified or should I go with beads which seem hard to know when you are using the correct amount. 

 

Any advice is much appreciated. 

What irons are these? 

[RSLP]

.355 bore / GolfWorks Carrie’s them.

 

[CaymanS]

3 hours ago, st1800e said:

What irons are these? 

2021 Callaway X forged, Japanese model.  They use a collared ferrule which I have.  I used digital calipers and the Modus3 shaft and hosel seem to match the specs.

[zip7111]

Do you need shims?  Aren’t these .355 taper heads and .355 taper shafts?

[JJgolfwrx]

doube check the tip diameter of the shaft and the heads bores should be taper with that head!

[CaymanS]

23 hours ago, zip7111 said:

Do you need shims?  Aren’t these .355 taper heads and .355 taper shafts?

No, the heads are .370 and shafts .355.  I measured them both.  A bit unusual for the heads to be .370 I think, but that is what they are.

[Cwebb]

39 minutes ago, CaymanS said:

No, the heads are .370 and shafts .355.  I measured them both.  A bit unusual for the heads to be .370 I think, but that is what they are.

 

Simply trim two prongs off the brass shims.  Start by removing one, then go to the opposite side and trim that one off.   You should end up with the same amount of prongs between where you trimmed them off and this will keep the spacing uniform

[st1800e]

1 hour ago, CaymanS said:

No, the heads are .370 and shafts .355.  I measured them both.  A bit unusual for the heads to be .370 I think, but that is what they are.

Are they .370 at the bottom of the bore, or is that measured at the top of the bore? 

[bekgolf]

On 7/6/2024 at 9:00 AM, CaymanS said:

I have built maybe 5 or 6 sets of irons over the years using brass shims from Golfworks.  They take up the extra space when using a .355 taper shaft in a .370 hosel and they worked perfectly.  But not this time.  With shim in-place, I can't get the shafts in far enough before they get stuck roughly 1/4"~3/8" before the shaft is fully inserted.  Can the shims be modified or should I go with beads which seem hard to know when you are using the correct amount. 

 

Any advice is much appreciated. 

 

I recently used .355 shafts in a .370 bore using GW shims.  On two of them the shim bottom was just a little bit off center when I started them and the result was what you describe.  I was able to flatten the bottom and get them started more centered if that makes sense.  Once I did that they worked. 

 

[CaymanS]

7 hours ago, st1800e said:

Are they .370 at the bottom of the bore, or is that measured at the top of the bore? 

My particular digital calipers can't reach far enough to measure the bottom.  They go down about 1/4" past where the collared ferrule reaches, so maybe a 3rd of the way down.

[CaymanS]

7 hours ago, Cwebb said:

 

Simply trim two prongs off the brass shims.  Start by removing one, then go to the opposite side and trim that one off.   You should end up with the same amount of prongs between where you trimmed them off and this will keep the spacing uniform

I ended up trimming off various numbers of prongs as needed depending on the head.   A little surprised at the variation, although I am not too experienced.  The 2024 heads are made in China and may not be as consistent as Japanese manufacturing, but I don't know about the 2021's that I have.

[hwwong]

Can you sand the shims down with a dremel or something?  Brass should be pretty soft

[iRod]

On 7/7/2024 at 9:08 AM, CaymanS said:

2021 Callaway X forged, Japanese model.  They use a collared ferrule which I have.  I used digital calipers and the Modus3 shaft and hosel seem to match the specs.

I am positive those heads are 0.355 taper, Callaway uses larger collars on their iron ferrules, which could explain the 0.370 caliper measurement. They could've also been bored out.

[Stuart_G]

8 hours ago, CaymanS said:

My particular digital calipers can't reach far enough to measure the bottom.  They go down about 1/4" past where the collared ferrule reaches, so maybe a 3rd of the way down.

 

I'm sorry, that's not even close to far enough down to be able to tell the difference between .370" and a .355" tapered hosel.

 

Usually the best way to check the hosel size is just to take a .370" shaft (verified with the calipers) and see if you can insert it all the way to the bottom of the bore (using the calipers to measure bore depth).

 

The fact that the tapered tip shaft will not fit with the shim, is a pretty good indicator that your assumption about the hosel size may not be correct and you need to find another way to verify it.  Especially if you're using the correct size specific shims from golfworks (and not using the universal scalloped shims found elsewhere).

Edited July 9 by Stuart_G

[CaymanS]

8 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

I'm sorry, that's not even close to far enough down to be able to tell the difference between .370" and a .355" tapered hosel.

 

Usually the best way to check the hosel size is just to take a .370" shaft (verified with the calipers) and see if you can insert it all the way to the bottom of the bore (using the calipers to measure bore depth).

 

The fact that the tapered tip shaft will not fit with the shim, is a pretty good indicator that your assumption about the hosel size may not be correct and you need to find another way to verify it.  Especially if you're using the correct size specific shims from golfworks (and not using the universal scalloped shims found elsewhere).

Too late to do any more measuring since the clubs have been assembled.