How do you set up wedges in classic sets.

[deetsal]

I know the farther back the higher loft the club. 1920s sets I have came with 2-8. As we go to say 30s, 2-9, then 2-pw. A 8 iron in 1920 was what today? What are the lofts an length compared to today. What is the loft on say a Rocket Blaze? What is it, something like a 43 degree PW? What was that back in the day?

 

Would love to get some insight on all this. When I start I to use one of my 20 or so vintage sets I think I will move up so set of tees. Is this something that some of you do?

 

Also how do you treat clubs that I am going to put away for my sons grand children. I am thinking of putting a coat of car wax on them.

 

Is there anything to help preserve the grips? Both leather and rubber.

[oldschoolrocker]

I don't have any concrete information on the older lofts, or lofts through the decades, but from my eyeball and hitting them tests, what it looks like and how far I hit the club, I would say a 20's/30's 8 iron may be equivalent to a 70's pw.
It's really fun to take the old sets out from various decades and see how both you and the set perform.
As far as what tees to play, that is all dependent on the set I am playing at the time.

[stixman]

That's about right OSR the 8 was the old niblick, most were well lofted, 50deg. at least.

As a general point, one of the delights of these forums on this classic side is having a read through topics and responses. What the OP is asking is totally relevant to someone starting out playing vintage gear, as it has been to all of us at an earlier time. A good bit of what is being looked for is answered on these pages.
The downside is you come here with an agenda and you quickly discover the key to Pandora's Box. There's questions here you never thought of asking or never knew you needed the answers to, never mind the issue of equipment hoing.

[oldschoolrocker]

Come to think of it, with two of the vintage sets I play regularly I don't carry a pw. Straight from a nine iron to sw and haven't noticed any issues.

['53 Precision]

In most classic sets, the PW fits in really nicely as a gap wedge, most vintage Hogans, for an example, PW's are at 50.5* and can be adjusted to 52* easily...

[pls123]

The 8 iron of my '54 Dynapowers looks like it could be in between today's average 9 and PW

[NRJyzr]

I have a friend who did some research on this, back around 2000, posted his results. Around 1930, 1 iron was 20°, 9 iron was 52°, when the sand iron was introduced, it was around 58° to 60° (per another fellow golf forumite who collects old wedges).

1950, we'd graduated to the 17° 1 iron, 20° 2 iron, and 52° PW. The 52° PW may have stuck around into the 60s, I'm not really sure.

Note the even 4° gaps through most of the set.

Around the mid to late 70s, we saw the 20/30/50 progression with which so many are familiar, the 78 Staffs and FG-17 lofts.

Of course, this was all rather generalized, but it was a nice analysis by him. I wish I'd saved the entire post, which is more or less lost.

I've mentioned this elsewhere... the 56° SW really came into being along with the 50° PW. Prior to that, SW were around 58° or even 60°.

Being "Originally Topical," I'm toying with playing a 58° Ram Tom Watson Commemorative wedge next season as the lone wedge to go with a 1-PW setup. If you look at older bags, and even some modern pros bags, you'll see there's frequently 6° gaps in the wedge portion of the bag, sometimes even more. If I don't go that route, I may go 18° 2 iron to 50° PW, 4° gaps throughout, with 55/60 wedges.

Haven't decided yet.

[birly-shirly]

I've tended to set wedges up with 4* gaps in the past, but I'm starting to wonder whether larger gaps wouldn't be more use to me.

What makes me wonder is that, in practice, the spread of balls short and long with one wedge looks pretty large compared to the yardage gap you'd expect from a 4* change in loft. I don't know whether I can really justify 4* gaps unless I'm hitting my SW to a tight enough yardage that it doesn't stray into PW/GW territory anyway.

I do think it makes sense to have at least 2 wedges with at least 50* loft. I think 50*-52* is when a club begins to look viable for hitting pitch shots, and I think it makes sense to give yourself the option between low-ish bounce and higher bounce wedges around the greens and in the sand.

[Blade Junkie]

On another thread there is discussion about clubs you should never change, with the old vintage mantra of sticking with the trio of driver, wedge and putter.


The interesting part of this is that "wedge" is singular ... one club ... a player would use that club for all sorts of different shots, and would learn to hit these variations through practice. Nowadays we are brainwashed by the equipment companies to think we need 3 or 4 wedges with different lofts, grinds etc to replace that one club that used to do it all .. I'm thinking in particular of Seve and his 55 degree Wilson JP II. I don't recall any short game shot that he wasn't able to hit with that club ... mind you he could also get out of a greenside bunker with a 3-iron

On my vintage journey, I have found that a 50 degree Niblick (= the 8-iron in the early steel-shafted sets) can similarly hit lots of different shots and is very verstaile and alot more fun to play than any of my 48/52/56/60 modern wedge combos.


In terms of which tees to use for vintage play, moving up a tee box is never a bad idea. If you are too far back you just find you are hitting a fairway wood or long iron into every hole. 5,800-6,300 yards probably optimal for vintage clubs for the average handicap golfer. My personal preference for casual rounds is Yellow tees (Men) for hickory or vintage and White tees (Men's Competition) for modern clubs. Blue tees (Senior) are quite popular for hickory.

You asked about club maintennace .. are your early clubs hickory or steel shafted ?

[Fellaheen51]

[quote name='Blade Junkie' timestamp='1448446313' post='12644148']
.........The interesting part of this is that "wedge" is singular ... one club ... a player would use that club for all sorts of different shots, and would learn to hit these variations through practice. Nowadays we are brainwashed by the equipment companies to think we need 3 or 4 wedges with different lofts, grinds etc to replace that one club that used to do it all.
[/quote]

Agree with this commentary. I've had this notion for some time that the necessity for carrying 4 wedges is "boolyah". A contrivance to sell more golf clubs. A grind for this condition, a loft for that. Really? Another example of over thinking the game.

Looking at WITB for all conditions, the two wedges that are in play are a GW and SW. GW only because, at 50* of loft, it is essentially a classic PW. I use this club from 110 yards in to about 50 yards where the SW is utilized. There are many rounds where I never hit my standard PW, going to a 9 iron. I could remove it from the bag and never miss it. The SW (56*/11*) can be manipulated for full swings, half swings, laying the blade open for lob shots, and bunker shots. I've never got along particularly well with a 60* wedge. Never seem to hit it "just right", more often than not just fat. Don't even carry one anymore.

Not to imply that there is anything Seve'ish going on here. Can hack them around with any club at any time. However, perhaps without thinking to much about it this year, I've worked at trying to be a better short game player and being creative with singular wedges. This has been one area of my game that I can shave stokes from the scorecard that doesn't require length or strength. Lord knows that I get enough practice because I do not have many GIR.

Equipment nuances can clutter up the mind. Especially all this wedge stuff, having precise gaps and distances. If one is thinking about all this while playing, gets in the way of making the "correct" shot for traversing the required distance. Grip it, feel it, hit it, IMHO.

[birly-shirly]

Totally agree with the idea of trying to declutter the short game.

I think there's a common but quite damaging perception that all wedge shots need to land and stick stiff to the pin.
I know I was quite surprised to see the stats that, on average, a tour pro is more likely to take 3 than 2 from as close as 30 yards even from good fairway lies. From rough and bunkers the distance is more like only 20 yards.

My conclusion is to stop trying to do too much. Decent contact, plain vanilla pitch shots that roll somewhat towards the hole and guarantee 2 putts will do me fine unless and until I become a much better player. Oftentimes, it seems easier to pitch and run those shots with a PW or a 9 iron. I'm sure I lose more shots than I ever gain by trying to get cute and opening up the face to try and hit some sort of lob.

[Fellaheen51]

On a ancillary note to the wedge discussion. Most of us, if not all, play multiple varieties of clubs in our kits. Sometimes on a day to day basis. In our quest to play our best (or maximize our enjoyment), we could easily let equipment "specs" get in the way of our abilities to play the game, swing a club, hit a ball. I've had to push "spec" aside, not think about it. Otherwise, it would be difficult at best to play a different set of irons (example) tomorrow than what I played today. The only fundamental criteria, being taller in stature, is that the clubs have the correct length. Least this is my operational theory as I navigate through the world of classic golf clubs.

Distances of 5800 - 6100 yards is about optimum for my abilities. Plenty of enough sport to the challenge at those distances without becoming punitive. This corresponds generally to the white tees here in the states. Never asked "what tees did you shoot your score from?" by my usual suspects. Its become a cliche, we see golfers all the time hitting from the back tees who have no business playing from there. Lots of ego in golfdom.

[Fellaheen51]

[quote name='birly-shirly' timestamp='1448451952' post='12644238']
Totally agree with the idea of trying to declutter the short game.

I think there's a common but quite damaging perception that all wedge shots need to land and stick stiff to the pin.
I know I was quite surprised to see the stats that, on average, a tour pro is more likely to take 3 than 2 from as close as 30 yards even from good fairway lies. From rough and bunkers the distance is more like only 20 yards.

My conclusion is to stop trying to do too much. Decent contact, plain vanilla pitch shots that roll somewhat towards the hole and guarantee 2 putts will do me fine unless and until I become a much better player. Oftentimes, it seems easier to pitch and run those shots with a PW or a 9 iron. I'm sure I lose more shots than I ever gain by trying to get cute and opening up the face to try and hit some sort of lob.
[/quote]

Exactly B-S. I call this "Old Man's Golf" in the most respectful of ways. We know who they are, those old boys who keep the ball in play and have a deft touch around the greens. Able to pitch and putt. Get up and down. And they clean our clocks (and take our money) more often than not because of it. Now, as a junior member of this august club, came to the realization that this is the model I needed to work at. Get better at the short game. And I've yet to see one of these fellows "futzing" over the spec or gaps of their wedge in hand. Most could not even cite you "spec" if queried. Back to my earlier point, they just see the shot and execute it.

Big believer in the pitch and run. Never have been much of a "hit and stick" player (spin). Much easier to execute the prior with some degree of proficiency. Plus, many of the courses I typically play are conducive to this approach. The "lob" shot is not needed and has a increased chance of an unsatisfactory result. As always, IMHO.

[scomac2002]

In my modern bag I play a 46° PW followed by a 52°/58° combo of wedges. I can cover off all the sorts of shots I might want to hit with those three clubs. With that in mind when I was putting together my vintage bag I wanted three clubs that would fulfill the same roles. That just happened to be the 9i, PW and SI as they would perform similar shots in similar fashion covering similar yardages and trajectories. I don't know what the precise lofts of those clubs are, but have an approximation using a clinometer app downloaded onto my phone putting the three clubs at 44°, 48.5°, 55° respectively. That's close enough for a hack like me. The bigger challenge has been adjusting to the higher bounce designs of modern clubs versus the vintage clubs that I'm playing. Only repetition solves that issue.

As others have said, there is a tendency on the part of the modern golf industry to complicate the game, whether it be through techniques or equipment. Feel players, of which I am one, appear to more easily adapt to different clubs and moving from set to set particularly if you are used to manufacturing shots -- flight up, flight down, take a bit off, work it left or right or at least attempt to. Sometimes it's better to embrace the variables rather than having a singular focus to eliminate them. Next thing you know you're going to be playing with less and less clubs and shock of shocks your scores might actually go down.

[scomac2002]

[quote name='Fellaheen51' timestamp='1448454732' post='12644306']

Big believer in the pitch and run. Never have been much of a "hit and stick" player (spin). Much easier to execute the prior with some degree of proficiency. Plus, many of the courses I typically play are conducive to this approach. The "lob" shot is not needed and has a increased chance of an unsatisfactory result. As always, IMHO.
[/quote]

This depends a great deal upon where you play. I play a lot of older and shorter courses with tight well protected greens. Not a lot of opportunity to pitch and run, so that's not the sort of shot I play frequently other than to use a short iron to flight the ball low and land it in front of the green with hopes of running the ball up to the flag. By necessity I've become much more of the pitch and stick type player with the lob shot being a bit of a staple having need to clear trees that protect greens far more often than I would like. The unexpected side effect of practicing lob shots is that I have a pretty solid sand game even though I don't see many bunkers on the courses that I play the most.

[Fellaheen51]

Valid point you make buddy. We try to become proficient with the short game shots we typically experience the most. All depends on the courses we frequent. As for the lob over trees shot, might as well punch it out into the open. That would be the percentage shot by way of comparison. The usual probability of executing the high lob is between slim and zero. LOL.

[NRJyzr]

I don't know that I'd blame companies for the proliferation of multiple wedge bags so much as the players who insist on having those 4° gaps all the way down to their 60°. The multiple products of a company like Wilson Staff (using them only for sake of example) are more about providing something for everyone, to pick and choose what they want from a large number of options.

Someone somewhere came up with the idea of trying to space out their full shot distance gaps with wedges the same as they do with irons, and we get 52/56/60. Ugh.

Switching topics to the bump and run vs spin.... I rather like the check shot. In fact, I have a terrible time playing a bump and run, the balls tend to check up too early for me and I leave the shot short far too often. Maybe it's an offshoot of playing to spin it as much as I have over the years. <shrug>

I can't blame the equipment. I'm currently using newer Scratch wedges with the cute face milling, but it's not much different with my 25 year old Ram Tom Watson Scoring System wedges.

[scomac2002]

[quote name='Fellaheen51' timestamp='1448457840' post='12644474']
As for the lob over trees shot, might as well punch it out into the open. That would be the percentage shot by way of comparison. The usual probability of executing the high lob is between slim and zero. LOL.
[/quote]

Not if you practice it. Lobbing the ball over a 20'-25' pine is not a big ask if you have confidence in the shot. I would consider it a 90% shot versus the 100% of the punch out and I've likely saved myself a stroke in the process not to mention angling for the sense of accomplishment when you hit one stiff!

My most memorable lob this season was from a severe downhill lie in the rough behind a green and I had to clear a 15' pine to a short sided pin. I went at the ball with my 58° wide open and tried to splash the ball out like a bunker shot. Up and over the tree, drop, hop and roll to an inch of the hole. I was sure it was going in for a chip-in birdie, but the golfing gods wouldn't have it that day!

Not the smartest shot, but if you don't challenge yourself, how will you ever know what you can do? I must have a little recklessness in me...

[NRJyzr]

Sco, I've done the same thing, and for much the same reason. Experience has shown me trying to bump it under the tree has roughly the same degree of success as trying to flop it over the tree.

Maybe it's because I've always been a high trajectory player that this comes easier for me than for someone like my low trajectory playing partner.

Mildly related.... one of my friends is a Scot. Moved here in the 90s. He plays the ball through the air for the most part, and quite proficient at the flop shot. It surprised me, going against the stereotype of what we ignorant Americans would assume to see in the short game of a man from Scotland. Turns out, he didn't *really* start playing a lot of golf until he got on this side of the pond. Was primarily a rugby man back home.

[oldschoolrocker]

I used to be in love with the lob shot. Open it up, really accelerate and whish, up up and away. When it's pulled off a real crowd pleaser, but, I now am going going to a basic pitch using the bounce and it really has taken all the fear out of the short game for me.

[NRJyzr]

When I started playing, I was apparently playing flop shots, without realizing that's what I was doing. I was able to do it easily, until I kept hearing how difficult it was.

I don't do it as often anymore.

[birly-shirly]

[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1448460416' post='12644600']
[...]

Switching topics to the bump and run vs spin.... I rather like the check shot. In fact, I have a terrible time playing a bump and run, the balls tend to check up too early for me and I leave the shot short far too often. Maybe it's an offshoot of playing to spin it as much as I have over the years. <shrug>

I can't blame the equipment. I'm currently using newer Scratch wedges with the cute face milling, but it's not much different with my 25 year old Ram Tom Watson Scoring System wedges.
[/quote]

I think part of the problem with the pitch and run shot is being able to practice it, or rather, finding the right conditions to be able to practice it and hone your judgement. You need realistic grass lies to hit from, and you need a realistic green to land and run it on. And you need probably 30 - 50 yards of space. Lobs and flops aren't quite so demanding on the facilities available, in that to a great extent you're trying to take the landing conditions out of the equation with minimum roll out.

I agree with the points above about the value of the shot being quite situation specific. But when I'm thinking (which isn't always), I'm often surprised by how much space there is to land the ball short and let it run. Quite often, especially if conditions are at all soft, I find the real problem is in getting the ball to run out and up to the hole. I've found 9 and even 8 irons useful.

For all the talk about the extra forgiveness of "using the bounce", there seems to be much less about the forgiveness of using less loft. But a shorter swing, contact more in the back of the ball, and more predictable bounces seem to me to matter at least as much.

Having said all that - I think there's probably a large amount of "play what you're comfortable with" applying here. I know guys who are very comfortable flipping the ball up in the air. I've always been happier hitting a lower, more driving shot.

[Fellaheen51]

[quote name='birly-shirly' timestamp='1448466679' post='12644946']
[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1448460416' post='12644600']
[...]

Switching topics to the bump and run vs spin.... I rather like the check shot. In fact, I have a terrible time playing a bump and run, the balls tend to check up too early for me and I leave the shot short far too often. Maybe it's an offshoot of playing to spin it as much as I have over the years. <shrug>

I can't blame the equipment. I'm currently using newer Scratch wedges with the cute face milling, but it's not much different with my 25 year old Ram Tom Watson Scoring System wedges.
[/quote]

I think part of the problem with the pitch and run shot is being able to practice it, or rather, finding the right conditions to be able to practice it and hone your judgement.

.......For all the talk about the extra forgiveness of "using the bounce", there seems to be much less about the forgiveness of using less loft. But a shorter swing, contact more in the back of the ball, and more predictable bounces seem to me to matter at least as much.
[/quote]

Since I rarely "practice" as in range time practice, short game shots are experimented with on the fly, out on the course. This is one of the reasons I enjoy playing alone, when it's not busy. I can try different shots, hit three or four balls from a particular position, try some different things outside of the usual comfort zone. In a sense, practice.

IMHO, bounce is detrimental to MY short game "pitch and run" shotmaking. Seemingly, for right or wrong, I get the sense of having to "manipulate" the sole of the club (i20's) to get the bounce into an advantageous position. Usually by hands well forward of the ball. Otherwise, my tendency is to blade it. Back to having to think to much about mechanics of making the the shot. When playing blades (generally Apex's, sometimes GR), this is an adjustment I do not have to perform. Just concentrate on keeping a firm left wrist (not get "wristy") and a good follow thru. So much easier. And 90% of the time (somewhat dependent on length), it's with an 8 or 9 iron.

The overriding difficulty I have when faced with the "high pitch" is controlling my back swing length. In other words, how much of one to take. To much and one flies the green. Not enough, just another fat shot. With more practice comes better execution. But as I said before, something I tend to not do enough of. Usually to busy working out major full swing "malfunctions".

This always brings to mind a quote from the infamous Allen Iverson (U.S. pro BB'er) when asked about why he sometimes doesn't show up for it......."We're talk'in about practice, man? [i]Practice? [/i]We ain't talk'in about the game. We're talk'in about practice, man! You come (to the arena) and see me play?" Classic.

[stixman]

'Since I rarely "practice" as in range time practice, short game shots are experimented with on the fly, out on the course. This is one of the reasons I enjoy playing alone, when it's not busy. I can try different shots, hit three or four balls from a particular position, try some different things outside of the usual comfort zone. In a sense, practice. '

Good stuff, Fella.
Rain is my friend! Very few people play at our club when it rains, not an infrequent event in our NW coast. Practising as you say, out on the course when you are not supposed to, is one of my favourite pastimes.
Being born in 1945, I was lucky. It was the edition with waterproof skin.

[birly-shirly]

Good point stixman. We need a rain thread! Macwet gloves have been a revelation for me this year. Ventile trousers, sadly, have been a total bust. The Tilley hat is still unsurpassed.

[oldschoolrocker]

I am a Tilley man myself bs. I have yet to find a good pair of slacks for rain.

[BIG STU]

To sorta answer the OP's question it can be subjective. Most newer sets with jacked lofts the PW can be 43 to 44* Compairing that to a 60s 70s Blade PW they can range from 47* to 50*, Back in my younger day I used just a PW SW. In fact in my vintage set now (CF-4000s) I only carry 2 wedges a 47* and 56*. On my front line set (Mac VIPs) the stock wedge was 47* and then I carried a 56* and 60*. With the new wedges I am carrying now I have the Gap bent to 48* Sand bent to 56* and Lob bent to 60*. I use the 60* on a few shots mostly greenside bunkers. I think what ever way one goes is up to the individual as to what fits their game. Wedge play is one of my specialities and I practice the wedges and putter 90% of the time. In fact if nothing else I hit some kind of wedge off my mat at the house almost daily

To sorta answer the OP's question it can be subjective. Most newer sets with jacked lofts the PW can be 43 to 44* Compairing that to a 60s 70s Blade PW they can range from 47* to 50*, Back in my younger day I used just a PW SW. In fact in my vintage set now (CF-4000s) I only carry 2 wedges a 47* and 56*. On my front line set (Mac VIPs) the stock wedge was 47* and then I carried a 56* and 60*. With the new wedges I am carrying now I have the Gap bent to 48* Sand bent to 56* and Lob bent to 60*. I use the 60* on a few shots mostly greenside bunkers. I think what ever way one goes is up to the individual as to what fits their game. Wedge play is one of my specialities and I practice the wedges and putter 90% of the time. In fact if nothing else I hit some kind of wedge off my mat at the house almost daily

[Eidolon]

It is not just wedges boys. The entire set up has to have continunity. A knock down squeeze cut 8 iron is easier than the same shot with a 4 iron. There for the 4 degree gap i s b.s. The gap has to be based upon yardage not degrees. A progressive loft is best. Not just me( a ledgend in my own mind) butMr. 63 US Open final round, great iron player, Johnny Miller. We use the same set up. Driver, 3 & 4 woods, 2 thru 9 iron, pw & sw. 9 = 46, pw=52, sw=58. 2/20 3/23 4/26 5/29 6/32 7/36 8/41. Yardage gaps shorter in long irons than short irons. 3/4 short iron easier than 3/4 long iron. This is perfect for vintage club players. If you hit high ball 1 iron instead of 4 wood. Low ball guys 5 wood instead of 2 iron. This logic has been good for 45 years, trust it. Luv you guys. Mike

[deetsal]

[quote name='Blade Junkie' timestamp='1448446313' post='12644148']
On another thread there is discussion about clubs you should never change, with the old vintage mantra of sticking with the trio of driver, wedge and putter.


The interesting part of this is that "wedge" is singular ... one club ... a player would use that club for all sorts of different shots, and would learn to hit these variations through practice. Nowadays we are brainwashed by the equipment companies to think we need 3 or 4 wedges with different lofts, grinds etc to replace that one club that used to do it all .. I'm thinking in particular of Seve and his 55 degree Wilson JP II. I don't recall any short game shot that he wasn't able to hit with that club ... mind you he could also get out of a greenside bunker with a 3-iron

On my vintage journey, I have found that a 50 degree Niblick (= the 8-iron in the early steel-shafted sets) can similarly hit lots of different shots and is very verstaile and alot more fun to play than any of my 48/52/56/60 modern wedge combos.


In terms of which tees to use for vintage play, moving up a tee box is never a bad idea. If you are too far back you just find you are hitting a fairway wood or long iron into every hole. 5,800-6,300 yards probably optimal for vintage clubs for the average handicap golfer. My personal preference for casual rounds is Yellow tees (Men) for hickory or vintage and White tees (Men's Competition) for modern clubs. Blue tees (Senior) are quite popular for hickory.

You asked about club maintennace .. are your early clubs hickory or steel shafted ?
[size=4][/quote]Steel, I have around 25 sets of Wilson's from the 30 to the 80s.[/size][quote name='Blade Junkie' timestamp='1448446313' post='12644148']
On another thread there is discussion about clubs you should never change, with the old vintage mantra of sticking with the trio of driver, wedge and putter.


The interesting part of this is that "wedge" is singular ... one club ... a player wosneee that club for all sorts of different shots, and would learn to hit these variations through practice. Nowadays we are brainwashed by the equipment companies to think we need 3 or 4 wedges with different lofts, grinds etc to replace that one club that used to do it all .. I'm thinking in particular of Seve and his 55 degree Wilson JP II. I don't recall any short game shot that he wasn't able to hit with that club ... mind you he could also get out of a greenside bunker with a 3-iron

On my vintage journey, I have found that a 50 degree Niblick (= the 8-iron in the early steel-shafted sets) can similarly hit lots of different shots and is very verstaile and alot more fun to play than any of my 48/52/56/60 modern wedge combos.


In terms of which tees to use for vintage play, moving up a tee box is never a bad idea. If you are too far back you just find you are hitting a fairway wood or long iron into every hole. 5,800-6,300 yards probably optimal for vintage clubs for the average handicap golfer. My personal preference for casual rounds is Yellow tees (Men) for hickory or vintage and White tees (Men's Competition) for modern clubs. Blue tees (Senior) are quite popular for hickory.

You asked about club maintennace .. are your early clubs hickory or steel shafted ?
[/quote]Steel, I go 45PW, 50G, 56 SW, 62 LW in modern bag. I am not able to play hickory, I am not a high ball hitter. I have a set of 1932 Wilson's, 2-9. A set of 68 or so irons, 4/5 sets of 70s clubs and 10 or so sets of 80s irons, all wilson. I may set up several different error sets. Oh and set of 50s wilson Sam Snead's.

[deetsal]

When I was a kid, 70s, we only had PW, SW, and we ever used the SW for anything but the sand. I was common to think it was too heavy for chipping. I don't know if it was just around here or if this was common thinking else where. We used the PW for all our chipping, with maybe an 8 for bump and run shots.