Fitting Tall Golfers With NO Chart or Preconceived Ideas!

[rybo]

That odd moment when you realize you've been playing the wrong size glove for a very long time!!

 

 

 

 

Local shop had a Footjoy glove fitting tool. Could barely get the strap fed through the opening!

 

XXL gloves for me from now on

[Galanga]

Big mitts there!

 

Just for reference, because of this thread, I went with longer clubs about 6 months ago and it has helped. 6'1" with 38" WTF - long torso, short legs.

 

6i - 38 1/4

7i - 37 3/4

8i - 37 1/4

9i - 36 3/4

PW - 36 1/2

50 - 36 1/4

54 - 36

58 - 35 3/4

 

Used Paderson 88gm graphite and they swing weight just fine - about D0 6i to D6 for 58 with midsize NDMC Midsize +4s.

 

Thanks Rybo. Thread helped.

[LeftyTPH]

This thread is fascinating. I'm nearly 6'4 and grew up playing standard clubs. I've always had consistency issues with wedges and shorter irons and groove 7i-4i. My most recent set i went up +0.5 inches, 2 deg upright in all clubs. But I'll have to reference this thread when building my next set. I don't know anything about club building so will need to find someone who can help me out trying to get properly fit and swingweighted in the short irons.

[scottaz]

 

 

Putter Fitting!

 

Finally abandoned all preconceived notions with regards to putting fitting too. Used a mirror on the ground to get my eyes 1" inside the line. 37 1/4" and a new set up, ball much further away from me, and holy crap I can putt! Tall person problem again!!! Seriously for those of over 6' 2", any type of standard club is a problem, a big problem!

 

 

At the same time I made the adjustment with all of my iron lengths (about a year and a half ago) I was at my club builders shop and he asked me to hit a few putts for him. Just weeks earlier I started borrowing a playing partners (same height as me) customized Scotty that just felt good to me. I had no idea of the length and didn't care. I was putting lights out with it and bought it from him. So I start hitting putts for my builder and after 3 he stops me and says don't change a thing, it fits you perfectly. Turns out it was 37". I knew it was longer but had no idea how long. I've never played anything longer than 34.5. Putting has been by far my most consistent part of my game ever since.

 

Also interesting that I'm pretty much 2" over across the board with everything up to my Hybrid.

 

Since I've last wrote about my experiences on here, I've purchased new irons with my specs and it was such an easy transition.

[Elf]

Rybo - thanks for the perspective and staying with the thread. Wanted to read the whole thing before chiming in.

 

I am not really an "Elf" as I'm 6'5"with WTF of 38" and have played +1" with varying degrees of "adjusted up" because it was the "suggested fit". I have been able to maintain <5 handicap most of my adult life. I was always a bit frustrated with the "fitters" starting points of 2 to 3+up in lie and +1 in length. If I missed it was always left at my most upright lie adjustment. That was until I did the "feel test" with lie and am now more standard lie in one set of irons and Red Dot (-0.75) in a set of Pings. CP2 Jumbo grips at 80 grams help balance the swingweight.

 

I have recently, and methodically, gotten equipped to changing out shafts so I can accept reality that my swing speed is dropping and shafts may need to be changed something that better suits.

 

So the points I would make are: 1) I am pleased I can do my own club work so I can evaluate a test club at a time for shaft type and length 2) this would be a difficult & a more costly trial and error for those that had to rely on golf shops to make the changes 3) the uncertainty of needing to make changes to club lie angle has had me stay with forged clubs which I prefer anyway.

 

I like your minimum and maximum length starting point. I have also felt more jammed up in trying to swing club adjusted 2+ upright - just don't like being that close to the ball. And if I have my numbers right "they say" for every +1/2 inch over standard that is equal to a 1 degree up adjustment AND using +1/8 inch over Jumbo grips might also equal +1 or 2 up. So those equivalents also enter in to a tall, big handed guy feeling in the right place without having to adjust lie angle.

 

Then there is the hand size question. I wear an XXXL glove and my hands an fist stacked on fist, is 8.25 inches. With big hands our grips reach further down the club to certainly help us control the extra length over the standard +1".

 

The last point, that you have certainly mentioned, is it is really about standing tall enough to freely clear our left sides. That is what I like soon much about your method as it is about being able to better get through the ball. As someone that has had both hips and my left knee replaced I certainly don't want to feel hunched over and restricted if going to 2+ inches over will help.

 

So the shaft extensions should arrive the next day or so and I will give it a go for an extra inch or so over my current +1.

 

THANKS!

[rybo]

I have been doing some interesting calculations on the effect of upright lie angles. Can not get to it tonight. It explains why going more upright over adding length is detrimental.

 

I'll try go get it posted tomorrow.

[trying2scratch]

Rybo, great to hear. Can't wait to check it out. Finally finished my testing... I think :)

 

My gamers are in the shop getting reshafted and weighted. Going with 3/8 " increments and roughly .5 swing weights between clubs for MOI matched set. I'm 6'3 220lbs WTF 38.5 -39 depending on shoes. Wide chest and shoulders.

 

Set up feels way better, center contact much better. You can naturally keep your spine angle without even thinking about it. How it should be! Feels awesome to be able to actually choke up a bit to hit a knock down and have it flight lower. Could never do that with my short upright clubs.

 

Here are my cut lengths with no grips:

 

 

20* Hyb. 40.25"

4ir 39 3/8"

5ir. 39"

6ir. 38 5/8"

7ir. 38 1/4"

8ir. 37 7/8"

9ir. 37 1/2"

PW. 37 1/4"

GW. 37"

SW. 36 3/4"

LW. 36 3/4"

 

 

Once I get them back going to do some dynamic lie testing to see if any adjustments are needed but doubtful. My test set was std lie and could have gone a little flatter if anything but want to get some rounds on the course before making any changes.

 

Went to a 36 inch putter last year with great results, may try a 37 tester but don't really want to mess with a good thing.

[Elf]

I know there has been reference to the impact of "+" length on how the iron shaft might play a bit weaker than labeled flex. The question I have is... since most of us tall guys have about a + 1" as what we have settled in on playing (before feeling enabled by this forum), how much does another +1" or so impact how the shaft plays? Thoughts?

 

I recall that head weight has a part in this. Less not so bad, heavy maybe weaker.

 

I am a "Senior" who is moving from stiff steel and graphite into more of a regular flex at +1 would like some perspective on going to +2 to +2.25 and if it would really weaken flex that much. I also recall and tend to agree with rybo that getting the length right is primary and flex is then to be tweaked.

 

Currently going from Recoil 808 F4 at +1 to, more than likely, extending to 2.25. Extensions installed today to be trimmed this weekend.

 

I realize as well that we are all sort of "self medicating", together, but with good reason and it is a bit of trial & trial (no error in my mind!).

 

Have a great Memorial Day Weekend!

[rybo]

There are two triangles created by a golf club. There is a right triangle based on club length (hypotenuse) and what the industry refers to as a ‘lie angle’(Angle “A”). Then there is a second obtuse triangle created by the length between the center of the club face and the back edge of the hosel (side “B”), the club length from ground to end of grip (side “C”), and the opposite angle of the ‘lie angle’ (Angle “A”).

 

Please note what the industry refers to as lie angle is not the angle created by the length of the shaft and the inside angle between the sole of the club and the shaft. This angle is the true lie angle.

 

Below is a typical 9 iron of 36” and 64*.

 

 

 

The 1.8” measurement is the length between the center of the face and the back edge of the hosel. The 15.781” is what I refer to as ball position. I have not been adding the club length to this only due to the fact there are such minor variations from clubhead to clubhead and the change in results for the obtuse triangle change very little due to such small changes in this length. The 32.357” is the resulting length most refer to as ‘hand height’. The 36.824” is the distance between the end of the grip and a point that is center of the club face at the ground. The 116* is the true lie angle and is simply the 180*-64* = 116*.

 

Comparing how the geometry changes for a lie angle change vs a length change some interesting things happen. The pic below shows the lengths for a 36”/66* club, a 2* upright change.

 

 

 

The hand height increase .531”, roughly ½”. The ball position moves to 14.643” or 1 1/8” CLOSER to the golfer and the playing length between the end of the grip and the center of the face is REDUCED by .056”. The actual length of the club, 36”, does not change.

 

Below is a 37”/64* club, +1” length change.

 

 

 

The hand height increases to 33.255” or just over 7/8”. The ball position moves to 16.22” or just under ½” AWAY from the golfer and the playing length increases to 37.823” or almost the full 1” of the length change.

 

The implications of this as this relates to the exceptionally tall golfer are huge. I feel the most important part is the change in ball position. Tall golfers need two things, (1) a ball position further from them and (2) a higher hand height. Both are needed to make up the increase in WTF created by their higher shoulder height and smaller increase in arm length. Upright lie angles only succeed in meeting one of those needs, the higher hand height. And it does this at the detriment of a closer ball position (and a club playing length that is ever so slightly shorter)

 

The increase in length moves everything in proportion to the golfer. All measurements increase. A +1” length increase, INCREASES ball position by .439”, INCREASES hand height by .898” and the playing length retains the full 1” increase provided by the length change.

 

So what does all of this really mean? I believe length fitting has to occur at ‘standard’ lie angles. Once the proper length is determined then small adjustments in lie angle can occur to alter the ball flight as needed. Anything more the 1* is likely telling you the length is too short.

 

As for a club being too long……the only way a club can be too long is for it to be too upright. This of course is from a geometric perspective. Feel, club balance, total weight, golfer strength, golfer ability, etc are other considerations but have nothing to do with providing a correct length to fit the higher shoulder and hand heights that exceptionally tall golfers have due to their body proportions.

[rybo]

In the series of triangles below the changes for lie vs length can be seen. Top row is change in lie angle, pay attention to the ball position changes. Bottom row is change in length.

 

 

 

Due to business constraints, limiting clubhead weights to a single weight for each head is understandable. Ping and Mizuno and a handful of others have either lighter heads or adjustable weight heads. Unfortunately simply adjusting lie angle more upright to gain the increase in hand height is having detrimental effect on ball position.

 

Why would someone 6' 2" and taller want or need a ball position that is closer to them? They need the exact opposite. If you ever wondered why just about every tall golfer has a steep swing and swings over the top, well it is because of the clubs. They are too short and the ball position is too close.

[Elf]

[Elf]

Well done

[trying2scratch]

Great explanation and images! Makes so much sense. I think the main misconception is that all tall people have extra long arms, they don't!

 

Upright lie has plagued so many of us. Free yourself and your swing and add some length! Instead of taking length off with upright lie and jamming yourself up.

 

 

[rybo]

Great explanation and images! Makes so much sense. I think the main misconception is that all tall people have extra long arms, they don't!

 

Upright lie has plagued so many of us. Free yourself and your swing and add some length! Instead of taking length off with upright lie and jamming yourself up.

 

We definitely have longer arms, the issue is shoulder height. Shoulder height increase at a 2:1 ratio over arm length. While the arms get longer the shoulders get higher twice as fast! This is why a very large percentage of tall people have very high WTF measurements while still having very long arms. Personally my WTF is 38" - 38.5" and my sleeve length for dress shirts is 37".

 

 

Manufacturers using upright lie angles as an illusion for length increase is their way of not having to produce multiple heads in different weights. I suspect using normal heads to build a great overlength set could be achieved by unique shaft designs. ie.. longer, stiffer butt section, counter balanced, etc. C Taper's are working well in the wedges as are the Steelfibers in the irons. Switched a i95 X for a i110 X in my 4 iron just two days ago and the swing weight went down 3 points! Seems the i110's may have a bit of counterbalancing built into them. More testing!

[LCP]

The implications of this as this relates to the exceptionally tall golfer are huge. I feel the most important part is the change in ball position. Tall golfers need two things, (1) a ball position further from them and (2) a higher hand height. Both are needed to make up the increase in WTF created by their higher shoulder height and smaller increase in arm length. Upright lie angles only succeed in meeting one of those needs, the higher hand height. And it does this at the detriment of a closer ball position (and a club playing length that is ever so slightly shorter)

 

The increase in length moves everything in proportion to the golfer. All measurements increase. A +1” length increase, INCREASES ball position by .439”, INCREASES hand height by .898” and the playing length retains the full 1” increase provided by the length change.

 

So what does all of this really mean? I believe length fitting has to occur at ‘standard’ lie angles. Once the proper length is determined then small adjustments in lie angle can occur to alter the ball flight as needed. Anything more the 1* is likely telling you the length is too short.

 

As for a club being too long……the only way a club can be too long is for it to be too upright. This of course is from a geometric perspective. Feel, club balance, total weight, golfer strength, golfer ability, etc are other considerations but have nothing to do with providing a correct length to fit the higher shoulder and hand heights that exceptionally tall golfers have due to their body proportions.

 

Exactly and very good! Can you imagine someone going through sports mechanics (any sport) and saying to the bigger, taller golfer, that what you really need to do here is get into a tighter more compact position than someone smaller than you. Nope. Ain't gonna ever be said. You need a broader and more expanded position than someone smaller than you. It's really just plain common sense sadly.

[rybo]

Hadn't considered the possibility my +2.25" longer then standard/+2* upright lob wedge may have a ball position CLOSER to me then a standard 35"/64* lob wedge!

 

Here are the numbers:

 

I knew the length was a tad short as the strike location on the face is a bit toe side of center but did not expect a closer ball position. It's 3/16" closer, which may not sound like a lot, but that is 3/16" on the short side when a tall golfer needs a ball position further away. May as well be 3/4" or more too close!

 

Maybe what needs to be fit is ball position as it relates to overall length. It takes a considerable amount of length change to produce a small amount of ball position change.

 

What I find interesting is the 'Playing Length' is 38.018". I think this combination produces an overall playing length so close my WTF length that it is making it playable. The shorter ball position explains the slight toe side hits and the continued steep swing/heavy divot pattern I still get from time to time with the shorter clubs.

[rybo]

A geometric comparison of the ball position change I believe shows why the 46.25" driver is working so well for me. I consistently hit every driver about a half a ball width toe side of center until this past November when through a bunch of testing I settled on 46.25".

 

The 1 1/4" increase in length moved the ball position just shy of 3/4" further away. Here are the numbers:

 

 

Again maybe ball position should be the main fitting variable. It is impossible to increase the ball position by any other means then a length increase. And it takes a large change in length to produce a small change in ball position.

[rybo]

Here are the breakdowns for some possible wedge solutions

 

 

Already had a sandwedge that was 37 5/8". Bent it to 64.75* and played it this morning. It has a better ball position, slightly longer playing length all while maintaining the same hand height as my current wedge. A range session and a round = so far so good. Need a bit more time with it to really tell.

[Elf]

Here are the breakdowns for some possible wedge solutions

 

 

Already had a sandwedge that was 37 5/8". Bent it to 64.75* and played it this morning. It has a better ball position, slightly longer playing length all while maintaining the same hand height as my current wedge. A range session and a round = so far so good. Need a bit more time with it to really tell.

 

A thought to consider... Your original post was working on additional length using a 64 degree lie wedge. Looking at this and your other posts about wedges (sand, lob) you have your lies adjusted to +2 degrees to 66. I thought that a bit curious so I went online to do a brief check of Ping Glide 2.0 specs - has all their wedge lie angles with 64 degrees and doing the same on Vokey wedges - has them all at 64 degrees lie angle as well. So it just seems like the 2 up lie angle on the wedges and now moving back to 64.75 lie has you working to find your "minimum" lie angle in wedges. I've always liked matching anything more lofted than a wedge to my wedge for lie angle. On the bright side moving the hosel away from the ball can only reduce "hosel talk"...refuse to mention the "s" word!

 

Your recent post a longer and slightly flatter lie angle putter (I have long been 37 to 37.5") seems to match the longer club and better away ball position philosophy as the irons and the woods.

 

So just an observation as I am a fan!

 

I have lengthened from +1" to +2.25" on wedge to 3 iron and + 1.75" on 54 & 58 all with .75 flat red dot Ping Anser heads but will be next week before I can play.

 

Thanks for the thoughtful data supported discussion.

[rybo]

Assumed you meant lie angle not loft.

 

Vokey does have all their wedges at 64* lie angles.

 

Ping is progressively upright, gaps at 64*. sand wedges 64.25* and lob wedges at 64.5*

 

When I first did the length fitting stated in the first post it was at 64*. Ball flight and something I have spoken to a few times on here is the visual aspect bumped the lies back to 66*. Over the last 6 months the lie angles have been progressing down in the irons. Not a lot, 1/2 degree here and there. The wedges have been more elusive but I working under the thought that even a 2*upright wedge built some 2 1/2" longer then standard would still have an increase in ball position. BUT that is simply not the case. It's made me reexamine the entire bag, mostly in the wedges.

 

The fact is a very small increase in lie angle takes a very large increase in length to overcome what it does to ball position. So in the post with the solutions, it shows what length and lie would be needed to maintain a hand height that I knew was working.

 

I'm not adverse to changing lie angles at all. It has a direct effect on ball flight. Now for the exceptionally tall of us out there, adding significant length is the better method for fitting. Increasing lie angles moves the ball excessively close, makes the playing length a shorter and only raises hand height with no real length change. The last one sort of being a catch 22. So if lie angles are going to be made more upright, do it a little at a time. Maybe 1/2 degree. then do some serious testing.

 

And please remember some of what I am working through is being shared as it is happening so sometimes there will be adjustments/changes/learning curves

[Sean2]

I know there has been reference to the impact of "+" length on how the iron shaft might play a bit weaker than labeled flex. The question I have is... since most of us tall guys have about a + 1" as what we have settled in on playing (before feeling enabled by this forum), how much does another +1" or so impact how the shaft plays? Thoughts?

 

I recall that head weight has a part in this. Less not so bad, heavy maybe weaker.

 

I am a "Senior" who is moving from stiff steel and graphite into more of a regular flex at +1 would like some perspective on going to +2 to +2.25 and if it would really weaken flex that much. I also recall and tend to agree with rybo that getting the length right is primary and flex is then to be tweaked.

 

Currently going from Recoil 808 F4 at +1 to, more than likely, extending to 2.25. Extensions installed today to be trimmed this weekend.

 

I realize as well that we are all sort of "self medicating", together, but with good reason and it is a bit of trial & trial (no error in my mind!).

 

Have a great Memorial Day Weekend!

 

I am in my 60s, have been playing for 11 years. I have been always fit with regular flex. When I was at Callaway the fitter put me into a stiff shaft for all my clubs except the driver. +2-inches irons/wedges. +1-inch hybrid. +0.5 inch fairway woods. This has worked out very well.

[Elf]

Assumed you meant lie angle not loft.

 

Vokey does have all their wedges at 64* lie angles.

 

Ping is progressively upright, gaps at 64*. sand wedges 64.25* and lob wedges at 64.5*

 

When I first did the length fitting stated in the first post it was at 64*. Ball flight and something I have spoken to a few times on here is the visual aspect bumped the lies back to 66*. Over the last 6 months the lie angles have been progressing down in the irons. Not a lot, 1/2 degree here and there. The wedges have been more elusive but I working under the thought that even a 2*upright wedge built some 2 1/2" longer then standard would still have an increase in ball position. BUT that is simply not the case. It's made me reexamine the entire bag, mostly in the wedges.

 

The fact is a very small increase in lie angle takes a very large increase in length to overcome what it does to ball position. So in the post with the solutions, it shows what length and lie would be needed to maintain a hand height that I knew was working.

 

I'm not adverse to changing lie angles at all. It has a direct effect on ball flight. Now for the exceptionally tall of us out there, adding significant length is the better method for fitting. Increasing lie angles moves the ball excessively close, makes the playing length a shorter and only raises hand height with no real length change. The last one sort of being a catch 22. So if lie angles are going to be made more upright, do it a little at a time. Maybe 1/2 degree. then do some serious testing.

 

And please remember some of what I am working through is being shared as it is happening so sometimes there will be adjustments/changes/learning curves

 

I have great respect and appreciation for what you are sharing in real time...I am new to participating in the forum (any forum on GolfWRX) and admittedly need to take more care in posting. Thanks.

[rybo]

Did a comparison of standard setups for Titleist and Ping.

 

While they have nearly the same exact club lengths the variation in lie angles produces pronounced differences in ball position and club height. Since the club lengths are nearly identical so are the actual playing lengths.

 

 

 

Ping has a wider range of lie angles thus producing a wider range of ball positions. The Ping 4 iron is over 3/4" further from the golfer and is nearly 1/2" lower handle height then the Titleist with identical club lengths.

 

The Titleist has a more consistent ball position spacing then the Ping's. Both have ball positions that become progressively longer as the clubs get longer. This is due to the 1/2" spacing in club length.

 

Just food for thought

[rybo]

Here is a comparison of a Ping standard set up vs Ping +1/2"/3.75* up (+1/2"/Maroon Dot). This is what Ping says I should be playing for 6' 4"/38.5" WTF.

 

 

 

Their 'fit' for someone like me would have the ball position move nearly 2" closer then someone who is 5' 9" tall in the shortest clubs. This is due to them attempting to fix a length problem with a lie angle change. This excessively closer ball position produces a steep swing that is nearly impossible to swing from the inside. Marry this up to a tall individuals much higher shoulder and wtf heights and it quickly becomes obvious this is a poor approach to fitting tall golfers.

 

Tall golfers need longer clubs, much longer then we've been led to believe and very small changes in lie angles from standards.

[LCP]

At 6'5", here are my Ping club specs, varying from +1.75" to +2.25" in my sand wedge, white dot 3 iron and sand wedge/lob wedge and maroon dot others. Notice how I only have a one inch gap in club height from my 3 iron crossover to my lob wedge. Every club in my bag is comfortable on my body and back to swing, and with my long wedges and swing comfort, I feel like my wedges are the best part of my game and play them better than most of the players I play with, even those with lower handicaps. I paid attention to the "not more than 2 degrees upright" fitting mantra, and fit your wedges first and go up from there philosophy. Ball position is a little tight with the lob wedge but 99% of the time that club is not swung at more than 75%, and 80% of the time it's swung at 50% or less.

 

 

[Elf]

Before coming across this forum I was re-shafting a set of Ping Ansers (2010 Black Dot to +1) with the NS Pro 950GH Regular shaft (liked it in a demo). I have extended that set along with another I had (Recoil 808 F4 in a Red dot 0.75 flat) from +1" to +2.25" on 4-W. Both sets are Anser irons.

Extended 54 & 58 wedges to +1.75" (just to keep the swing weight down a bit & see).

Observations after practice sessions & a round with each:

I absolutely love the setup position at +2.25 (my WTF is 38" and I am 6'5"). Swing Weights are D3-D4 with the Recoils and D4-D5 with the N.S. Pro 950 GH R steel. The 80 gram jumbo CP2 from Golf Pride helps with the SW.

My iron play was "freer" and setup felt much more natural. Distances were similar to the sets at +1 but with less contrived effort. 14 GIR in 1 round. I was also a bit surprised on the chipping/pitching around the greens as I thought the extra length might be more difficult to adapt to. Yet it was just the opposite as having my hands in a better position without a contrived stance felt freer there as well.

So I am SOLD and not going back. THANK YOU RYBO and others! I am really psyched about what this can do for my game.

I tried to be aware as to if the shafts played a bit weak with adding +1.25" from where I was at +1" but they were fine. After all if you look at it at the shortest club at +1" (36.5') adding 1.25' is only a 3.4% increase in length! Probably not a factor at my age - as reference I have a 7-iron carry of 150 yards so I don't load a shaft like most here in the forum. Yet, it is good to know the "Senior" tall guys have a bit of hope too!

The driver went to 46" (a repurposed Ping i20) and that feels good as well over the 45".

Next steps are how much I might add to the fairway metals (15, 19, 21) and how to best take a bit of weight out of my wedges... but not in a rush.

I have enjoyed working on my own clubs to make the changes and have taken notes & kept records of head weights, total club weights, extension weights just to make sense of it all as best I can. I have learned a good bit from this and other GolfWRX forums...thanks to the GolfWRX community!

[trying2scratch]

Rybo, great to hear. Can't wait to check it out. Finally finished my testing... I think :)

 

My gamers are in the shop getting reshafted and weighted. Going with 3/8 " increments and roughly .5 swing weights between clubs for MOI matched set. I'm 6'3 220lbs WTF 38.5 -39 depending on shoes. Wide chest and shoulders.

 

Set up feels way better, center contact much better. You can naturally keep your spine angle without even thinking about it. How it should be! Feels awesome to be able to actually choke up a bit to hit a knock down and have it flight lower. Could never do that with my short upright clubs.

 

Here are my cut lengths with no grips:

 

 

20* Hyb. 40.25"

4ir 39 3/8"

5ir. 39"

6ir. 38 5/8"

7ir. 38 1/4"

8ir. 37 7/8"

9ir. 37 1/2"

PW. 37 1/4"

GW. 37"

SW. 36 3/4"

LW. 36 3/4"

 

 

Once I get them back going to do some dynamic lie testing to see if any adjustments are needed but doubtful. My test set was std lie and could have gone a little flatter if anything but want to get some rounds on the course before making any changes.

 

Went to a 36 inch putter last year with great results, may try a 37 tester but don't really want to mess with a good thing.

 

 

Made some small changes after a couple scrambles and 2 rounds. My lengths are as follows:

 

 

20* Hyb. 40 1/8"

4ir 39 1/4"

5ir. 38 7/8"

6ir. 38 1/2"

7ir. 38 1/8"

8ir. 37 3/4"

9ir. 37 3/8"

PW. 37 "

GW. 36 3/4"

SW. 36 1/2"

LW. 36 1/2"

 

 

So far it is feeling great. I have kbs tour v 120 x straight in. They don't feel like an x, so i'm guessing the added length makes them play similar to a soft stepped x. Also, switched my wedges all to kbs wedge 120 s. They have a stiffer tip section and they seem to work very well in the over length build with there slight counter balance. I like heavy wedges and these seem to give a great feel and match nicely with the tour v. I tried the tour v in a wedge but wasn't a fan of the feel of impact on the touch shots, almost a hollow/light feeling.

 

I've been playing 3/8" increments for a cpl years so the added length just feels very natural and set up is way easier. For this build, we went with 3/8" increments and .5 swing weight changes between clubs to get close to an MOI matched set. Feels really good. Swingweights are a bit heavier(which I love), but I use built up midsize grips so it balances out very nice. After a cpl more rounds going to do a dynamic lie test just to see where I'm at. So far the the 9 and pw seem to be a little left, but i think its more ball position and face angle related but we will see.

 

It was a bit of an odd feeling at first, cause you no longer have to make any weird manipulations and its way easier to maintain a nice spine angle throughout the swing. Another added bonus was no aches in my back/hips/ or wrists from all the mid swing compensations I used to have to make. I've picked up about a half club distance so far and it is awesome to look down at the center face impact marks after a swing. The wedges were all at least 10 yards longer than my previous shafts(rifle spinners) They just spun too much, and went too high. Going to check the lofts on my wedges tonight to make sure the gapping is good then get to the practice green to dial them in. Just need to get used to the new ball position, the swing is much shallower and center face strike is creating more distance with less effort. The feel is extra crisp which is really cool.

[scottaz]

Before coming across this forum I was re-shafting a set of Ping Ansers (2010 Black Dot to +1) with the NS Pro 950GH Regular shaft (liked it in a demo). I have extended that set along with another I had (Recoil 808 F4 in a Red dot 0.75 flat) from +1" to +2.25" on 4-W. Both sets are Anser irons.

Extended 54 & 58 wedges to +1.75" (just to keep the swing weight down a bit & see).

 

Observations after practice sessions & a round with each:

I absolutely love the setup position at +2.25 (my WTF is 38" and I am 6'5"). Swing Weights are D3-D4 with the Recoils and D4-D5 with the N.S. Pro 950 GH R steel. The 80 gram jumbo CP2 from Golf Pride helps with the SW.

 

My iron play was "freer" and setup felt much more natural. Distances were similar to the sets at +1 but with less contrived effort. 14 GIR in 1 round. I was also a bit surprised on the chipping/pitching around the greens as I thought the extra length might be more difficult to adapt to. Yet it was just the opposite as having my hands in a better position without a contrived stance felt freer there as well.

 

So I am SOLD and not going back. THANK YOU RYBO and others! I am really psyched about what this can do for my game.

 

I tried to be aware as to if the shafts played a bit weak with adding +1.25" from where I was at +1" but they were fine. After all if you look at it at the shortest club at +1" (36.5') adding 1.25' is only a 3.4% increase in length! Probably not a factor at my age - as reference I have a 7-iron carry of 150 yards so I don't load a shaft like most here in the forum. Yet, it is good to know the "Senior" tall guys have a bit of hope too!

 

The driver went to 46" (a repurposed Ping i20) and that feels good as well over the 45".

 

Next steps are how much I might add to the fairway metals (15, 19, 21) and how to best take a bit of weight out of my wedges... but not in a rush.

 

I have enjoyed working on my own clubs to make the changes and have taken notes & kept records of head weights, total club weights, extension weights just to make sense of it all as best I can. I have learned a good bit from this and other GolfWRX forums...thanks to the GolfWRX community!

 

Don't forget the putter. :taunt:

[CrisPy3]

Following...

 

I'm 6'5" in shoes with a 38.5" WTF. Like every single other golfer over 6'3", I've often wondered why I only play irons 1" longer then the guy playing standard length that stands at 5'10"...

 

I've taken my Srixon Z-stars (Nippon 1050 GH in stiff) and J40 wedges from 1" to 2" over to see what the fuss is about.

 

Went to a local muni yesterday and played pretty well. Shot my average, but also hit some shots I've never seen before (both good and bad). My PW and 9i couldn't hit the green from reasonable distances - missing both left and right... wondering if maybe i need a stiffer shaft in my wedges. But the long irons were like hitting low, long stingers. I'm not complaining as they were very straight, but it seems like it might take a few more rounds to get used to the added length (was planning on laying up on a par 5 with six iron and actually rolled to the front edge).

 

A few questions i have: has anyone else made additional changes besides just adding length? Also, based on the thread (I've read it all), what's everyone's thoughts on increasing the wedges by 2", the mid irons by 1.5", and the long irons by only an 1"? Would that mess with the gaps too much?

 

Thanks, and really enjoyed the insightful conversations and everyone's differing opinions on such an interesting topic.

[rybo]

UPDATE

 

Two months ago I tried a set of Cobra One length irons and my variable length irons have not been touched since! This has truly been one of the best things I have ever come across in all of my years of building and trying various clubs. For me it has simplified the game, swing, scoring, etc.

 

I had already spent a lot of time finding the absolute shortest length I could use for the lob and sand wedges, and 37.25" & 64.75* are the absolute minimums FOR ME.

 

So here is what I am playing:

 

 

Cobra F7 and One Length wedges

 

L, S, G = 37.25" & 64.75*

6-P = 37.5" & 64.5*

5 = 37.75" & 64.25*

 

4 iron is from a VL set and is 39" & 62.75* (Callaway X Hot N-14)

 

Wedges have C-Taper S+ tip trimmed 6.5", very close to 7 iron trimming

Irons have Steelfiber i110 X tip trimmed to 8 iron specs

4 iron has a Project X Flighted 6.5 tip trimmed to 4 iron specs

 

The Cobra heads weigh 270 grams. The lob and sand wedge heads weigh 272g. Wedge have additional 8g tip weights. They were just too light for what I had already become accustom to when drilling out material.

 

 

I have also made an adjustment to the driver length that was needed due to a swing change that occurred from using the single length irons. My swing was very much a two plane type swing, but has naturally gravitated to more of a modified one plane swing. While the over length fairway woods have performed fine with the swing change, driver performance was awful. I just wasn't presenting the face of the club to the ball the same way. I've settled in at 45 3/8" at the moment. Playing a Tensei Orange 70 TX tipped 1" with a 2014 Great Big Bertha with two sliding weights and a 10 gram weight. Total headweight at 208g. (I'm on my 3rd Epic SubZero as the heads keep breaking! Epic SZ has been sidelined)

 

 

I also have a set of Cobra Forged One Length irons that came +3/4" with the standard KBS X flex 130g shafts. They are simply too heavy for me and will be rebuilt. They will be rebuilt with 1/8" steps as I still really want to try this set up. The head weights will varied by 2g gaps with tip weights ie..5 iron 270g, 6 iron 272g, 7 iron 274g, etc. Likely will go with C-Taper for this set. I also plan on making these a bit longer overall then the F7's. Probably start 5 iron at 38 1/4" and work the length down in 1/8" increments from there.

 

I have picked up distance, something I was not after at all, but the accuracy gains I am having with the SL set up has blown me away. I have had more rounds in the 60's in the past 4 weeks then I have had in a very long time and this is with a bulky putter on very slow, wet, Florida summer greens. The game has become easier. Practice is so much more focused.

 

Not saying I will never use a true VL set again, but there is nothing making me think or want to go back to them.