MEMBER TESTING: 2017 TaylorMade M1 Driver Reviews

[Z1ggy16]

The swingweight doesn't really seem to reflect how the club feels. All the weight in the shaft and not much feel for the head.

 

Also, I tried other shafts that have worked well for me in a SLDR 430 (204g iirc). They all felt awful with the M1. Simply need more head weight.

 

I agree the head feels light. It's weird. I'm going to be testing some heavier shafts and the fitter is trying to locate some heavier sliding weights for me as well since I want to cut the shaft down an inch to 44.5". Anyone know if butt trimming the AD GT will change it all?

I want to add weight to mine, but I'm afraid of putting lead tape on in case this driver doesn't end up a permanent residence of my bag. The head to me feels underweight compared to the SZ and F7 that I've recently swung.

 

If you get heavier weights can you tell me where your fitter gets them? TM has not been very responsive to us it seems.

[KK44]

 

I want to add weight to mine, but I'm afraid of putting lead tape on in case this driver doesn't end up a permanent residence of my bag. The head to me feels underweight compared to the SZ and F7 that I've recently swung.

 

If you get heavier weights can you tell me where your fitter gets them? TM has not been very responsive to us it seems.

 

The fitter is part of Club Champion. I will keep you posted as to when and where he gets them.

[davo32683]

I want to add weight to mine, but I'm afraid of putting lead tape on in case this driver doesn't end up a permanent residence of my bag. The head to me feels underweight compared to the SZ and F7 that I've recently swung.

 

If you get heavier weights can you tell me where your fitter gets them? TM has not been very responsive to us it seems.

 

The fitter is part of Club Champion. I will keep you posted as to when and where he gets them.

 

KK, I think if you cut 1" off of it, it's going to come in around D0 or maybe even under. I went from 45.5" @ D2 to 45" @ D0 when I trimmed mine.

[tnord]

if you cut it down 1'' it'll move down 6 swingweight points. you'll need ~12grams on the head to bring it back.

[Z1ggy16]

Thank you. I will have to weigh my track weights to see if I can make up 12 grams thru those. However, this implies my weights were the correct weight per their spec to begin with.

 

Does anybody know to get the D3 weight at 45.5'', what assumed total head weight is to be? This is probably why I couldn't load the black tie probably... If I'm missing 12 or more grams from the head, it's going to be a struggle swinging the XS at 110.

[xzxkixl]

Does anybody know to get the D3 weight at 45.5'', what assumed total head weight is to be? This is probably why I couldn't load the black tie probably... If I'm missing 12 or more grams from the head, it's going to be a struggle swinging the XS at 110.

Plenty of head weight / shaft length / swing weight charts out there.

D3 at 45.5 with ~65 gram shaft and ~50 gram grip would require 198 gram head.

Counterbalanced shaft can throw that off some... if I remember from the thread you're talking about a Rogue Silver which I believe is slightly counterbalanced.

Also note that the 2 gram of head weight per 1 swing weight point is a simplification.

At putter length (35 inch) it is more like 2.1-2.2 grams per swing weight and at driver length (45 inch) it is more like 1.6-1.7 gram per swing weight point.

[Z1ggy16]

Well, I honestly have no clue how TM built these. I did not specify hotmelt, even though I FIRST went with a 60M4 cut to 44.5''. If the assumption is a ~200g head stock at 45.5'' with a 65g shaft, I was always playing the club around D1. Now I've got a 44.5'' Rogue Silver at ~70g... but if it's CB'ed, I have no clue what the swing weight now is, especially because I don't know if my head actually weighs the proper amount. Guys who got 460 heads were reporting different weights.

 

All I know is the Rogue is a much better shaft for me in this head, whatever the reason. There's too many assumptions to make in order for me to guess how much weight to add. I will need to bring it to a golf shop to have the SW measured. I'd prefer to keep this club in as a pristine condition as possible, and I don't want to heat up the composite on the bottom too much if I needed to remove tape.

[KK44]

It seems like they weighted most to play at D4. Obviously you'd have to get yours on a scale to check though.

 

My head was 192g and shaft is 68g. Weighed in at D4 at 45.5 inches. The stock head the fitter had was 199g.

 

The Rogue 70 is actually 78g in X flex and the Black Tie is 67.5g in X. If you were at D2 with the Black Tie, the Rogue, I believe, could bring you up closer to D4. Maybe that's why it's performing better. But all of this is heresy until you can weigh it all.

[pitchinwedge]

I agree the head feels light. It's weird. I'm going to be testing some heavier shafts and the fitter is trying to locate some heavier sliding weights for me as well since I want to cut the shaft down an inch to 44.5". Anyone know if butt trimming the AD GT will change it all?

If you get heavier weights can you tell me where your fitter gets them? TM has not been very responsive to us it seems.

 

Yup and yup. Club feels weird and it's weird how hard it is to find weights. Would have thought they'd be on the Bay by now, for lack of a better source.

[Homerun2Birdie]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

[pitchinwedge]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

 

Bang-on... don't want to give up adjustability, but more importantly, how would you know for sure how much melt to add? Forget about removing once installed and there's obviously no easy way to keep testing little by little. Also, adding lead strips seemed to affect ball flight so the location of the melt is probably going to be issue as well.

 

Obviously, get fit first, and then build to spec. Instead, we're doing this the other way around. Got club first, now trying to make it fit. Replacement weights just make sense.

[Homerun2Birdie]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

 

Bang-on... don't want to give up adjustability, but more importantly, how would you know for sure how much melt to add? Forget about removing once installed and there's obviously no easy way to keep testing little by little. Also, adding lead strips seemed to affect ball flight so the location of the melt is probably going to be issue as well.

 

Obviously, get fit first, and then build to spec. Instead, we're doing this the other way around. Got club first, now trying to make it fit. Replacement weights just make sense.

Gotcha, fair enough.

 

I will say this is the first club head where I've felt and seen an obvious difference in ball flight/result with the reduction of the SW. When I chopped my length down to 44" I was right around D0 and it was actually almost impossible for me to load the HZRDUS Black. I've never really felt anything like that before, I was actually freaking out for a second as I was hitting 40 ft high screamers on the range haha. Once I got the hotmelt in there and the SW back up to D3, which is where I like all my clubs minus the wedges, it was back to being perfect.

 

Edit: As a side note I like my driver to be fade biased, so I had the hotmelt put as close to the center/toe as possible. This way it doesn't alter the launch spin, but is certainly noticeable enough to keep the face open just a hair longer.

[Ping Zings]

Will these weights work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Black-Golf-Slide-Movable-Weight-For-Taylormade-M1-Driver-5g-7g-9g-11g-13g-/162053693899?var=&hash=item25bb2721cb:m:mK4porhqDTB8i4yQtmmJ0sg

[tnord]

H2B did you put the hotmelt in yourself or have someone do it?

 

i'm debating ordering a hotmelt gun for home shop use.

[pitchinwedge]

Will these weights work? http://www.ebay.com/...DTB8i4yQtmmJ0sg

 

No sir. They are for the 2016 model.

[Homerun2Birdie]

H2B did you put the hotmelt in yourself or have someone do it?

 

i'm debating ordering a hotmelt gun for home shop use.

Had some one else do it (Will Peoples). I don't trust myself to get the location exactly right.

[tnord]

that's not what i wanted to hear.

 

i mean, you just prop it up in whatever direction you want it to go? looks easy on youtube at least. :)

[pitchinwedge]

I will say this is the first club head where I've felt and seen an obvious difference in ball flight/result with the reduction of the SW. When I chopped my length down to 44" I was right around D0 and it was actually almost impossible for me to load the HZRDUS Black. I've never really felt anything like that before, I was actually freaking out for a second as I was hitting 40 ft high screamers on the range haha. Once I got the hotmelt in there and the SW back up to D3, which is where I like all my clubs minus the wedges, it was back to being perfect.

 

Edit: As a side note I like my driver to be fade biased, so I had the hotmelt put as close to the center/toe as possible. This way it doesn't alter the launch spin, but is certainly noticeable enough to keep the face open just a hair longer.

 

+1

 

Not the first time experiencing this but disconcerting nonetheless. "40ft high screamers" sounded so dejavu to me... it made me look back at one of my previous posts. I had written pretty much exactly the same thing on Jan 25.

 

As an aside - a couple of days ago I hit the Epic vs the 2017 M2. In short, I had 1mph faster ball speed with the Epic. Not much difference until you consider dispersion. 5 out of 7 fairways with the Epic and 3 out of 10 fairways with the M2. No they weren't perfectly fit for me, but it's still good data. IMO, the M1 and M2 are just as "hot" as the Epics and any real-world differences are going to because of the fittings.

[davo32683]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

 

Bang-on... don't want to give up adjustability, but more importantly, how would you know for sure how much melt to add? Forget about removing once installed and there's obviously no easy way to keep testing little by little. Also, adding lead strips seemed to affect ball flight so the location of the melt is probably going to be issue as well.

 

Obviously, get fit first, and then build to spec. Instead, we're doing this the other way around. Got club first, now trying to make it fit. Replacement weights just make sense.

Gotcha, fair enough.

 

I will say this is the first club head where I've felt and seen an obvious difference in ball flight/result with the reduction of the SW. When I chopped my length down to 44" I was right around D0 and it was actually almost impossible for me to load the HZRDUS Black. I've never really felt anything like that before, I was actually freaking out for a second as I was hitting 40 ft high screamers on the range haha. Once I got the hotmelt in there and the SW back up to D3, which is where I like all my clubs minus the wedges, it was back to being perfect.

 

Edit: As a side note I like my driver to be fade biased, so I had the hotmelt put as close to the center/toe as possible. This way it doesn't alter the launch spin, but is certainly noticeable enough to keep the face open just a hair longer.

 

That's exactly what I had happen when I cut it down from 45.5" to 45". SW went to D0 and I couldn't load the shaft at all, nor get it more than head high. It was ugly. Got the SW back up to D2 and have been blown away.

[Homerun2Birdie]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

 

Bang-on... don't want to give up adjustability, but more importantly, how would you know for sure how much melt to add? Forget about removing once installed and there's obviously no easy way to keep testing little by little. Also, adding lead strips seemed to affect ball flight so the location of the melt is probably going to be issue as well.

 

Obviously, get fit first, and then build to spec. Instead, we're doing this the other way around. Got club first, now trying to make it fit. Replacement weights just make sense.

Gotcha, fair enough.

 

I will say this is the first club head where I've felt and seen an obvious difference in ball flight/result with the reduction of the SW. When I chopped my length down to 44" I was right around D0 and it was actually almost impossible for me to load the HZRDUS Black. I've never really felt anything like that before, I was actually freaking out for a second as I was hitting 40 ft high screamers on the range haha. Once I got the hotmelt in there and the SW back up to D3, which is where I like all my clubs minus the wedges, it was back to being perfect.

 

Edit: As a side note I like my driver to be fade biased, so I had the hotmelt put as close to the center/toe as possible. This way it doesn't alter the launch spin, but is certainly noticeable enough to keep the face open just a hair longer.

 

That's exactly what I had happen when I cut it down from 45.5" to 45". SW went to D0 and I couldn't load the shaft at all, nor get it more than head high. It was ugly. Got the SW back up to D2 and have been blown away.

Yeah same story here. It is by far the longest driver I've ever personally put into play. I am still blown away by some of the distances I am seeing on the course.

[JStang]

I know a few of you have been curious about the Tensei Blue Pro TX in the M1 head compared to the Kuro Kage Dual Core TX in my 917 D3. I hit about 20 balls on the range today with the Tensei Blue and it was a much more smooth feeling shaft than the TX. It wasn't nearly as demanding for me to have to put my focus into striking the ball on the upswing to get the launch that I need to get.

 

After seeing some of TollBros numbers that he posted in the other thread, and my concern to begin with, I am afraid that the Dual Core TX will spin too low in this head for me. My swing speed has topped out on GC2 at 113 lately. With this head being such a low spinning head, I think I am going to benefit from the extra spin and higher launch that this shaft creates for me.

 

I like low spin but I really prefer 2,200 over 1,800. I will see what kind of numbers I get on the course next time I get out and I have a Trackman session in a week.

[KK44]

All this talk about the head weight and finding replacement weights - Would it not just be easier to get your head hot melted, or are some people opposed to it b/c the weight is permanent versus the removable sliding weights, just curious?

 

I am trying to avoid hotmelt until I know for sure the weight I need the head to be. I want to be able to experiment with different head weights easily. Then I will probably go with hotmelt in the end.....if there ever is one.....

[JStang]

I don't know what it is with this head but I can't keep the ball in the air. I have the swing speed to support it at 110-113 but my ball flight is really bad. It's so bad that I inspected it closely for cracks but didn't see anything.

 

I was just giving it some thought and I wonder if my weight setup is causing the COG to be too far forward. The high/low weights are at 7 grams with the screw (5 grams less than what it's supposed to be) and the draw/fade weight is at 14g. I think I will try flipping the weights around and put the heavy weight in the high/low track and the light weight up front.

 

It's worth a shot!

[Peanut191]

I don't know what it is with this head but I can't keep the ball in the air. I have the swing speed to support it at 110-113 but my ball flight is really bad. It's so bad that I inspected it closely for cracks but didn't see anything.

 

I was just giving it some thought and I wonder if my weight setup is causing all of the COG to be too far forward. The high/low weights are at 7 grams with the screw (5 grams less than what it's supposed to be) and the draw/fade weight is at 14g. I think I will try flipping the weights around and put the heavy weight in the high/low track and the light weight up front.

 

It's worth a shot!

 

Let us know how it goes. Should be interesting. How far back are you going to put the weight on the back slider?

[JStang]

I don't know what it is with this head but I can't keep the ball in the air. I have the swing speed to support it at 110-113 but my ball flight is really bad. It's so bad that I inspected it closely for cracks but didn't see anything.

 

I was just giving it some thought and I wonder if my weight setup is causing all of the COG to be too far forward. The high/low weights are at 7 grams with the screw (5 grams less than what it's supposed to be) and the draw/fade weight is at 14g. I think I will try flipping the weights around and put the heavy weight in the high/low track and the light weight up front.

 

It's worth a shot!

 

Let us know how it goes. Should be interesting. How far back are you going to put the weight on the back slider?

 

I will start with it as far back as it can go. and go from there.

[tnord]

i have found that the front/back sliding weight is effective for altering trajectory, but i haven't weighed mine. also significant is the improvement in sound as you move it the the rear position. i don't know why, but it's noticeable.

[JStang]

I also didn't notice the super low spinning shots as much until I moved to the Tensei Pro shaft. I am wondering if this is actually a Tensei Pro White PROTO with blue graphics. I know that this exists.

 

Edit: I just pulled the grip and found this label. I sent a PM to TollBros who said it is definitely a Tensei White which would explain the really low spinning shots I have been seeing. The white is too low spin for me in this club.

 

 

[halfsumo]

Hahahaa....Surprise!

 

A few drivers ago I had the opposite, a B-series painted like a W-series....

[PowerPlayer]

I also didn't notice the super low spinning shots as much until I moved to the Tensei Pro shaft. I am wondering if this is actually a Tensei Pro White PROTO with blue graphics. I know that this exists.

 

Edit: I just pulled the grip and found this label. I sent a PM to TollBros who said it is definitely a Tensei White which would explain the really low spinning shots I have been seeing. The white is too low spin for me in this club.

 

 

 

Most definitely a White. I have one of these and can confirm what TollBros told you. Very impressive though that you can really distinguish shafts from ball flight regardless of graphics.

[JStang]

I also didn't notice the super low spinning shots as much until I moved to the Tensei Pro shaft. I am wondering if this is actually a Tensei Pro White PROTO with blue graphics. I know that this exists.

 

Edit: I just pulled the grip and found this label. I sent a PM to TollBros who said it is definitely a Tensei White which would explain the really low spinning shots I have been seeing. The white is too low spin for me in this club.

 

 

 

Most definitely a White. I have one of these and can confirm what TollBros told you. Very impressive though that you can really distinguish shafts from ball flight regardless of graphics.

 

It was a night and day difference. I would hit about 10 balls with the M1 Tensei combo and about 8 of them would noticeably spin too little. Then, I would pick up my 917 D3 with Kuro Kage Dual Core TX shaft which is also a very low spin shaft and flight would be MUCH better and I wouldn't see the low spinning shot even on toe strikes.

 

Maybe the shaft is also tipped? I don't know what the deal is but it was obvious.