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How to hit a wedge shot?


gentles

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from 20-100 yards....anyone?
Hi all, I have been struggling immensly to understand the concept of wedge shots lately. I have been told that my wedge setup is the same as my driver set up, which can't be a good thing. I am going to commit to rebuilding my wedge game technique, as I feel it is the weakest part of my game. What steps would you advise taking in order to help develop a) Proper Technique b)Distance Control/Accuracy.

p.s I am trying to develop a body release feeling (ala Slicefixer) in my full swing, but am struggling to apply this to wedge games

Thanks
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when I need to hit a full 56* wedge (anywhere from 70 to 115 yards), I like to have the same feel as a shorter pitch. the swing is just a little longer. I find that If I swing easy and concentrate on feeling the ball compress, I have more consistency than trying to swing my wedges just like a middle iron. with wedges, smooth and easy becomes almost more important than with any other club, because you have to worry about distance control, and you can't control the wide distance range of the wedge without that consistent contact.

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i've got this down. i practice this all the time at a local pitch and putt.

 

i swing to "hours on the clock" for distance. i know that swinging to 10 o'clock will let me hit a sandwedge 70 or so yards.

 

I use the same method. This gives me the appropriate backswing for the appropriate distance. Sicne switching to this method I have been playing very well around the greens.

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I don't mean to be rude, but how can you not know how to hit a wedge shot and be a 1 handicap? More than 1/2 of your shots are between 20-120 yards.

 

I noticed that too. Something seems fishy here. :russian_roulette:

 

I don't think it's fishy. His idea of a good wedge shot from 20-120 is probably different than yours. He might feel he's struggling if it's not getting inside 10 feet. Whereas most amatuers might miss a green with a wedge, he may be "missing" it to 20 feet. Until you know his definition of "struggling" with a wedge, I don't think anything's fishy. At least he's concentrating on the right part of the game to improve.

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I subscribe to the clock method for less than full wedge shots. I saw Tom Kite give this tip a couple of years ago on Playing Lessons. The key is to practice and determine how far you hit 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full wedge shots while accelerating through the ball with the follow through matching the back swing.

 

He preached that too many people try to control in between wedge shot with a full swing and decelerate which causes a very inconsistant strike.

 

I have adopted this method and now look foward to 50-75 yard SW shots.


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Although it has gone out slightly....Monty, go to www.golf.co.nz and type in member no 4121220, and see for yourself. I guess my standards for wedge shots must be alot higher than yours. For me, I am looking to get the ball close enough to have an easy putt, or inside the magic 10ft circle as I was once told. What I am after is the main differences between a full swing and a wedge swing. Anyone who is prepard to offer any constructive comment is more than welcome. Thanks

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For shots within 60 yards i set my feet up left of the target but my shoulders straight. It helps me not to swing the club too hard and overshoot the target. Because of the stance my body movement is limited so i can't hit it more than 3/4.

You cannot overdo this but you'll learn fast and it really worked for my game. It helped me breaking 90.

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An alternative to the "clock" method -- which I find works well -- is to stick with one wedge (from 60 to 120 yards out) and control your distance with where you hold the club. Ex: say for every inch you choke up, the ball will fly 10 yards less than normal (just a hyphotecial)

 

If you're having trouble with accuracy on wedge shots, i find sometimes its easier to master several different ways to use one club rather than try to master several different wedges.

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I open up my stance slightly....and hit.

 

But I found learning a "half and 3/4 swing" by feel better than the clock method.

I'd hit what I think/feel was a half swing, and notice what the distance would be for that swing.

And did the same for a 3/4 swing.

 

The beauty of is that it plays into how I play (feel player) and keeps the mechanical thoughts out of my swing.

 

I find it easier to be more repeatative under pressure if I go with what my body feels vs. takeaway to 8 oclock or whatever.

 

Whether or not my 3/4 swing is really 3/4 is irrelavent, it's all about being able to land on a certain number.

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Mikpga, my index is now 2.9, mainly as a result of these problems.

 

1) I usually hit alot of greens, so I dont face many pitch shots.

 

2) Typically these shots I am talking about are my 3rd shot on par 5, so If i dont get up and down it's still par.

 

3) My bad shots usually find the green, and maybe 1/10 will miss the green, but my chipping is quite strong so I can still save bogey.

 

I am looking for advice on how to turn 3 shots into 2, not how to avoid big mistakes. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Once again, go to www.golf.co.nz and type in membership no. 4121220 if you really do need proof

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gentles

 

I played a lot of years and my wedge game is now improving.

 

Two things have helped me improve

 

One controling my arm swing (aka JonPeterson nine oclock ten oclock etc)

 

The other leading the shot with my left side and keeping my body moving or going left.

 

It just makes it easier for me to square short wedges.

 

I hit full wedges even 3/4 wedges just like I do other short irons mainly trying not to over swing I also use the swing left there.

 

Body rotation equals squaring the club

 

Good luck

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I am a complete feel player and my distance control is all about feel. So the clock thing would really screw me up. I am very consistant with my wedges. I do from time to time need to make sure my setup is right as I tend to get further away from ball and start reaching a bit. This causes me to get inconsistant. When I am nice and close to the ball I make a nice full body turn and it keeps my tempo smooth and I can control the shots with precision. My reaching really only turns into a very small amount but it is enough to get me out of sync. play around with your distance from the ball. It keeps me consistent.

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I find i'm quite a feel player but I do work from the distances that I know I can hit with a 1/2 & 3/4 SW and LW. This covers distances 30-80m out. I also change my follow thru and ball positioning depending on wat sort of spin i want. For less spin, the ball goes further back so I get a hop, hop and stop. Middle of my stance (which is narrow for a pitch) generally stop the ball on a dime and I change tragectory through my follow thru. A low hopper/spinner i steepen my swing and don't do a full follow thru, for a higher floater I do a full follow thru and feel like i finish a little higher then a norm tragectory.

 

For the actual method, I try and turn the same sort of way I would with full wedge shot, but i just sort of feel more compact and hit down on the ball, which creates extra spin. The thinner stance really helps with the feel of turning with your hands in front of your chest to a 1/2 or 3/4 position, and then smoothly accelerate through. U should feel like it is very easy, very smooth - be relaxed and exude confidence. Its my favourite shot to hit when I'm playing because i'm confident I can stick it close. Get that feeling!

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I do not really have a method but I generally have a good guage on distance control. To achive this you need go to the range and hit endless buckets of balls and the distances you want to hit, 20,40,60 and so on. One thing I always concentrate on on pitches 20-75 is have really have light grip pressure and trust your swing. Its seems like you are a sound player and do not really hit that many short pitches. More range practice and you will feel more confident over shots you normally do not take. I remember I was on a kidney green on the bottom teer and had no way to get the the pin, my buddy and caddy at the time said take out your R90 and hit a cut shot right off the green. I had practiced hitting off hard pan (no divots) so I thought no worries. I hit the shot picking it right off the green to 3 feet to the pin. Point is that shot was in my "bag of shots" and had no worries hitting a shot like that. Most people would have thought I was crazy to pick a ball off the green. Practice till you feel comfortable and you will see your score go down.

my 2$

Kevin

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Kenk7us2002, that Is great advice. Played a match today, hit a few nice wedge shots from that range, was focusing on making a compact controlled motion. One thing I overlooked was how Important the lie is. You can get the ball to rip off a tight lie, but off fluffy rough, you can forget it.

 

 

 

From a fluffy lie its real easy to catch the ball high on the club face. There are several things you can do none of which has anything to do the move or swinging left if you will.

 

Depending on the distance go to the next lower loft club.

 

Even from sixty or seventy yds I will use my 55 instead of my sixty from say a hundred I might use my pw instead of my 55

 

Next make sure your ball position is back farther than normal and your hands are forward at address.

 

I am going to hit this shot with my punch shot motion, I want to trap it a bit hit down on it.

 

Now the ball tends to come out lower and jump a bit . This takes a bit of practice to control it.

 

I find anytime I have a fluffy lie even from 180 this technigue works the best.

 

 

Note I am not trying to make a different swing with my wedges. I think for the most part the speed of my downswing with longer clubs helps me swing left eventually and clear my left side.

 

With the slower tempo of my wedges and half wedges. Often my hips would quit moving and I would flip the club head and hit pulls.

 

So moving and clearing my hips swinging left if you will became a swing thought and it became easier and easier to square the club.

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i would say to control your distance it doesnt really matter about how far you take it back its just how fast you are going when you hit the shot and the angle. i just try to make a solid follow through at what i think is the right speed and it usually sticks close. Im the kind of guy who could spend hours just chipping.

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i would say to control your distance it doesnt really matter about how far you take it back its just how fast you are going when you hit the shot and the angle. i just try to make a solid follow through at what i think is the right speed and it usually sticks close. Im the kind of guy who could spend ours just chipping.

 

 

 

Thats all well and good if you have great touch and nerves. I used to play more that way. But age has forced me to go to a system where I control the swing length, to control distance.

 

Both methods will work yours takes more natural talent.

 

 

Ken

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Describe your bad shots from 20-100 yards.

 

I'm with Monty on this one, how can you be a 1.0 index?

 

It's actually pretty easy.

 

I was about a 2 and really didn't really know how to hit wedge shots. It isn't really not being able to hit them at all or missing greens with them, but rather being 70 yards out or 30 yards out, hitting a wedge, and not getting a better result than if you had been 150 out.

 

Playing with my buds on the mini-tours at that time, I noticed the main difference between them and me, was that they expected to get up and down from 120 and in and usually had very very realistic chances at it (usually 20 feet and closer, occasionally farther). Whereas, I never really hit my wedges stone dead and was lucky to hit to 20 feet.

 

The definition of frustrating is getting to a short par 4, hitting smoking driver, then hitting a 30 yard pitch shot 30 feet from the hole.

 

Spalding(GEA)

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