Counter balancing a set of irons

[mustang]

i had a set of clubs built in 1992.   Tour Cavity Beryllium copper heads.  Ping look alikes.  Golfsmith.   Unbenownst to me--the builder was VERY skilled and he counter balanced them.   He had built a set for a friend and I wanted the EXACT irons. 

 

I was lifting weights and was 28 years old.   Those clubs were MONEY.  I don't know if I ever had a set where I got DOWN and THRU the ball any better than those.

 

My next foray will be to experiment with some counter balancing again.   Count me as a believer  

[Stuart_G]

11 hours ago, geesecougar2 said:

Reviving this from the dead 😀. This is something I'm thinking of trying. 

 

Dead and already decomposed 😁

 

11 hours ago, geesecougar2 said:

Sounds like most counterbalancing use cases is just to stick the counterbalance in there.

 

Correct.   It has nothing to do with changing head weight (or swing weight).  It may change what a swing weight scale will read - but that's not the point - nor should that change be corrected.

 

For those that want to try true counterbalanced clubs, ideally the grip should be fit first, shaft weight should be fit second, head weight should be fit third (and not changed after that).  And only then is it time to start messing with different amounts of butt weight.    Usually 5-20 gm for the full swing - possibly much more for a putter.

 

Edited April 23 by Stuart_G

[Stuart_G]

9 hours ago, ProV1Killa said:

As taller player I play 1/2 to 3/4 long clubs.  With fewer and fewer b weight heads available I've been told by a couple builders that I should start looking for a shaft that has a higher balance point.  It won't take clubweight away so I assume it will only help the perceived swingweight?

 

Shaft balance point and true counterbalancing are two completely different things.     Shaft balance point is not about concentrating weight in the hands.  It's about the distribution of weight across the full length of the shaft and therefore about swing weight management and the shaft's contribution to the swing weight (or really MOI of the club).   Most "counterbalanced" shafts are not really counterbalanced - they just have a high balance point.

 

True counterbalancing (weight added to the butt) really isn't about swing weight or even perceived head weight management.  It's about changing a different aspect of the clubs weight or heft feel.  How it might effect the perceived head weight is very subjective and unpredictable.   It's possible it might help but don't bet on it.

 

But I understand your predicament.  Good luck finding any significantly high balance point iron shafts.  The only ones I've ever heard of or come across are the steelfiber i110's.      The rest that are labeled as high balance point are maybe only a point lighter than "standard" balance point iron shafts.   Not going to make that much of a difference.   You might try going lighter with the shaft weight.  Sometimes that can help counteract the feel of a high swing weight.    And of course there is also the option of taking the heads to a machine shop to have some material removed - usually from the bottom of the hosel.

Edited April 23 by Stuart_G

[Jtgavigan]

I have experimented heavily with counterbalancing. I started with the putter using an optivibe and a tour lock weight in the butt end. I absolutely  LOVE it. My speed control dramatically improved,  and quickly,  when I got them positioned right for me. So, I decided to try other clubs. I am playing CB's in my driver, 3 wood, and hybrid,  and really like the feel. My impact pattern improved and impact feels softer.

 

So, I thought "why not" for irons and wedges. The opposite of what I just described happened. Impact felt harsher and my impact pattern did not improve. 

 

As has been stated, it is highly an individual thing and worth a look.  Even though my long clubs have a much heavier static weight, they don't feel it, nor do they feel excessively light because of the swing weight change. It is hard to describe.