Are these shaft tips over-prepped?

[Bad9]

14 hours ago, mister2cool said:

 

Has anyone else used this epoxy? It says "sets in 18 hours and cures in 24 hours". 24 hour cuing time is fairly normal for slow cuing type but 18 hour set time?? That seems awfully long.. I had never seen a epoxy that sets in more than 1 hour.  I don't know how liquid this mix is but if a shaft isn't inserted all the way in the sleeve, that's an awfully long time for epoxy to flow into the cavity and leaving very little to actually doing the bounding. The long set time would also mean you could potentially damage the bound if you moved the shaft inside the sleeve within that 18 hours, especially towards the end of that period. 

I have been using that epoxy with out a single issue for as long as its been available. Must be 10+ years

[mister2cool]

Don't mean to side track... but since we are talking about different kinds of epoxy.. I have been mostly using JB Weld instead of these golf epoxy. It has been working really well but anyone know any drawbacks for using that? 

[mogc60]

To the op…be sure to take some 180 or 220 grit sand paper to those tips. I called it a buff sanding cause you don’t want to sand to firmly but it looks to me like you still have paint resin on the tips. The tips should look uniform with no shiny spots or overly dull spots. It looks like the paint especially on the blue shaft wasn’t removed fully. This creates an issue with the bond. The tip should look like this

[DewSweepingMoose]

Ok so I'm going to give it another whirl with different epoxy. Consolidating the collective wisdom here, the plan is to:

• Thoroughly clean the adaptor sleeve with acetone
• Prep the inside of the adaptor
• Clean the the shaft tip and prep it (might tip it 0.25-5")
• Get some new epoxy:
  https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-maximum-strength-high-impact-epoxy/p/vb1001/
• Get the epoxy gun begrudgingly...cost is $80 here 😑
• Will keep some of the extra epoxy to ensure it set well

...Then cross my fingers when I get to the range!

Thanks again for all the help guys.

[Valtiel]

13 hours ago, mister2cool said:

Don't mean to side track... but since we are talking about different kinds of epoxy.. I have been mostly using JB Weld instead of these golf epoxy. It has been working really well but anyone know any drawbacks for using that? 

The main drawback with most JB Weld epoxies is the breakdown temperature which is extremely high for some, especially the "original". Not a big deal for steel shafts, but problematic for pulling graphite. 

[trav_158]

 

4 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

• Thoroughly clean the adaptor sleeve with acetone
• Prep the inside of the adaptor

 

Make sure you prep the adaptor and then clean it as a last step.  ensure the acetone dries prior to assembly.

 

you should be able to take a clean lint free white rag on a dowel or drill bit and scrub the inside of the hosel/adaptor after you clean it with acetone and have it come out totally clean. 

Edited September 15, 2021 by trav_158

[Stuart_G]

6 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

Ok so I'm going to give it another whirl with different epoxy. Consolidating the collective wisdom here, the plan is to:

• Thoroughly clean the adaptor sleeve with acetone
• Prep the inside of the adaptor

 

Swap those two.  Prep first, clean second.

 

Make sure the acetone or alcohol dries/evaporates completely before gluing.

 

 

 

6 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

• Get some new epoxy:
• https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-maximum-strength-high-impact-epoxy/p/vb1001/
• Get the epoxy gun begrudgingly...cost is $80 here 😑

 

 

Unnecessary - but it's your money. 😉

 

To test the epoxy you have,  all you have to do is mix up a small batch and see how it cures (without using it).  That's called a "pot test" and is all that's needed to test if the batch is or has gone bad.  Or for that matter if it's just a problem with your mixing ratio/technique.

 

Or as an alternative, you could also save money by ordering the packaged version that doesn't need the epoxy gun:

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-maximum-strength-high-impact-epoxy/p/vb1032/

 

Edited September 15, 2021 by Stuart_G

[DewSweepingMoose]

6 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

Unnecessary - but it's your money. 😉

Well, technically it's their money now 😂

Funny you mentioned the 30ml one with the built in gun, I happened to get that one as they had it in stock. So should be all set, will post results when epoxy comes and I do the deed. Will also do a pot test (with current and new) since I'm now well stocked with epoxy.

Seems tricky to find clubmaking gear down under, just a few ebay stores really. When I was in Toronto years ago there was a Golfsmith, I miss being able to walk into a real store, ask questions, then handover my hard earned $$$ face to face!

[animalgolfs]

9 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

Ok so I'm going to give it another whirl with different epoxy. Consolidating the collective wisdom here, the plan is to:

• Thoroughly clean the adaptor sleeve with acetone
• Prep the inside of the adaptor
• Clean the the shaft tip and prep it (might tip it 0.25-5")
• Get some new epoxy:
  https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-maximum-strength-high-impact-epoxy/p/vb1001/
• Get the epoxy gun begrudgingly...cost is $80 here 😑
• Will keep some of the extra epoxy to ensure it set well

...Then cross my fingers when I get to the range!

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Just to be non assuming - make sure you spin the adapter once on the shaft...I actually take the adapter off to make sure the shaft prep area has a nice coating of evenly SPREAD epoxy....then I'll do the soft ferrule & check again for proper epoxy coverage...then I'm ready for the final adapter install for curing

[Stuart_G]

3 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

Seems tricky to find clubmaking gear down under, just a few ebay stores really. When I was in Toronto years ago there was a Golfsmith, I miss being able to walk into a real store, ask questions, then handover my hard earned $$$ face to face!

 

I dont' doubt it.   But golf epoxy isn't really all that special.   You should be able to find something suitable w/o having to send for it all the way from the US.  You just have to dig a bit to find the epoxy specs for different brands to make sure you get something appropriate. 

The two important specs being:
1) Lap sheer strength at least 2600 psi.  3k is a bit better for higher speed players but the 4.5k from golfworks is really overkill.

and

2) break down temp (Tg) not being to high to be able pull with graphite shafts w/o a high risk of damaging.

 

Edited September 15, 2021 by Stuart_G

[DewSweepingMoose]

13 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

I dont' doubt it.   But golf epoxy isn't really all that special.   You should be able to find something suitable w/o having to send for it all the way from the US.  You just have to dig a bit to find the epoxy specs for different brands to make sure you get something appropriate. 

Oh for sure, I was more thinking about just other things in general. Shafts, ferrules, grips, whatever really. It's fun to be in a shop with all the things. 

 

[DewSweepingMoose]

13 hours ago, animalgolfs said:

Just to be non assuming - make sure you spin the adapter once on the shaft...I actually take the adapter off to make sure the shaft prep area has a nice coating of evenly SPREAD epoxy....then I'll do the soft ferrule & check again for proper epoxy coverage...then I'm ready for the final adapter install for curing

Thanks! Will add this to my plan 👍

[Stuart_G]

5 hours ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

Oh for sure, I was more thinking about just other things in general. Shafts, ferrules, grips, whatever really. It's fun to be in a shop with all the things. 

 

 

I'll bet it would be - not that I've ever had the opportunity.

[DewSweepingMoose]

On 9/14/2021 at 6:59 PM, Stuart_G said:

Should also not be sticky or overly brittle.

So my 'pot test' is 25hrs in and when I tried to tug on the golf tee I left in it the tee snapped down the middle. It faired better than my adaptor sleeve lol.

Surface is 'sticky' though, enough where my fingerprint  remains visible but can't depress it when applying pressure. Also tried to push the edge with my thumb and the edge smeared 😕 Figure that part of the mix was not 1:1 maybe 🤷‍♂️

Generally feels pretty solid though, like a kinda glassy, hard surface.

[animalgolfs]

11 minutes ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

So my 'pot test' is 25hrs in and when I tried to tug on the golf tee I left in it the tee snapped down the middle. It faired better than my adaptor sleeve lol.

Surface is 'sticky' though, enough where my fingerprint  remains visible but can't depress it when applying pressure. Also tried to push the edge with my thumb and the edge smeared 😕 Figure that part of the mix was not 1:1 maybe 🤷‍♂️

Generally feels pretty solid though, like a kinda glassy, hard surface.

I get that same finger print[using Tour set]....usually let's me know I'm 👍 

Edited September 16, 2021 by animalgolfs

[Stuart_G]

18 minutes ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

Surface is 'sticky' though, enough where my fingerprint  remains visible but can't depress it when applying pressure. Also tried to push the edge with my thumb and the edge smeared 😕 Figure that part of the mix was not 1:1 maybe 🤷‍♂️

 

What was the room temp during the curing?   Seeing a fingerprint is not that unusual but it shouldn't leave any sticky residue on your finger when you do it.

 

More likely just not mixed as well around the edges.   many tend to focus the mixing in the center of the batch.  You almost need to fold the perimeter back into the center periodically during the mixing.

 

I like using small paper "dixie cups" with the sides cut down.  Makes it easy to scrape around the edges of the mix to work it back to the center and also keeps parts of the mix from spreading out too much.

 

[DewSweepingMoose]

20 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

More likely just not mixed as well around the edges.   many tend to focus the mixing in the center of the batch.  You almost need to fold the perimeter back into the center periodically during the mixing.

The bulk of it was not like that, but this is good to know and I'll be meticulous about getting a consistent mix going fwd! Also, room temp was normal I suppose, wouldn't have a clue as to exact º but a temp you wouldn't characterise as hot or cold I guess.

[Stuart_G]

37 minutes ago, DewSweepingMoose said:

The bulk of it was not like that, but this is good to know and I'll be meticulous about getting a consistent mix going fwd! Also, room temp was normal I suppose, wouldn't have a clue as to exact º but a temp you wouldn't characterise as hot or cold I guess.

 

Ideally you want it a bit on the warm side ~70*F  (22*C) or even warmer.

Colder mostly just slows down the cure time so might mean waiting more than the 24 hours for it to be fully cured.