Beryllium Copper polishing

[RMach]

Hi all, it took 2hrs, a random orbiting POLISHER, 3M #1 metal polish, 3M #3 metal polish and Maguires Black car polish.

This club was 100% brown in color. I have a very very cheap and old phone that takes crappy pictures. I assure you that this club shines brighter than any brand new penny.

Here is my best picture indoors. If you care to see the mirror shine with pine trees as a background let me know and I will bust out my good camera.

Pretty proud how this turned out guys.

I suggest not doing the "soak it in coke" or "just use Braso" approach as you are NOT removing the oxidation. I turned 12 terry cloth bonnets pitch black polishing this club. That is how you pull 40 years(?) of oxidation out of metal. Hope this helps someone with their Pings and the like.

I cannot add a picture. Neither a live photo nor one stored in my phone. But that is how you do it.

Okay I had to upload from my computer. Look I am sorry that I am shirtless in the last reflection but it is like 90+ with super high humidity and this was hard work. But sorry.

Also, the Beryllium is toxic during manufacturing. I seriously doubt that polishing nor handling the clubs causes any concerns but you do you. 

Edited September 5, 2023 by RMach
Figured out the pictures

[ezgoer]

32 minutes ago, RMach said:

Hi all, it took 2hrs, a random orbiting POLISHER, 3M #1 metal polish, 3M #3 metal polish and Maguires Black car polish.

This club was 100% brown in color. I have a very very cheap and old phone that takes crappy pictures. I assure you that this club shines brighter than any brand new penny.

Here is my best picture indoors. If you care to see the mirror shine with pine trees as a background let me know and I will bust out my good camera.

Pretty proud how this turned out guys.

I suggest not doing the "soak it in coke" or "just use Braso" approach as you are NOT removing the oxidation. I turned 12 terry cloth bonnets pitch black polishing this club. That is how you pull 40 years(?) of oxidation out of metal. Hope this helps someone with their Pings and the like.

I cannot add a picture. Neither a live photo nor one stored in my phone. But that is how you do it.

Boy I’m far from any type of expert but I thought beryllium was a very toxic material to work with. That and cost a couple of the reasons it went away in iron sets. Almost sure I’ve read warnings about the dust from sanding or grinding. Someone else can confirm this or probably best to actually search it out for yourself.

 

 To each their own. I use to like the new shiny penny look. Now I’d be devastated if I lost the dark “patina” and almost sulfur like staining in my ZING and 1a putters. I don’t necessarily like the beat up nicks and dents “patina” from years of use look on vintage clubs though other than this. 
 

 Please share some pictures. Sure there’s plenty of people that like the shiny new look.

 

 Not saying my preferences are right. Just want to make sure we are all safe. I will actually be glad to be proven wrong. As usual I know just enough to usually end up being dangerous 

Edited September 5, 2023 by ezgoer

[sheepdawg]

I like the patina myself. I restored an old Kirk Currie LC-1 copper putter last year and couldn't wait for the patina to come back. Took about 6 months, now it's just right.

[bcstones]

The picture for some reason didn't come thru.....that's okay, I'm like ezgoer & sheepdawg, I'd probably cringe at the sight. A number of my family are antique-ers, & I've listened to them.  I do hate to tell you....but that 40 years of oxidation - it's called "patina", and to a collector or an antique-er highly desireable. In fact, over half it's value to a collector/antique-er is destroyed when removed. Removing dirt or rust is one thing but anything more, at least to a collector, is another. 
There are probably many who, like you, enjoy the shiny & new look for old irons. No problem, to each their own.

 

Edited September 5, 2023 by bcstones

[ezgoer]

You do have me thinking though and I may have to admit to being a bit hypocritical cuz I do like the shiny ness of this earlier run Anser essentially time capsule putter I recently got. Not exactly sure the vintage but it has the black shaft label used from 69-76 and it still looks like it’s just months out of a pro shop.

[Foozle]

BeCu is one of the highest rated carcinogens, manganese bronze is not far behind. Inhaling particles or fumes is to be avoided at all costs. Any form of abrasive polishing is therefore not recommended without full safety precautions including correct grade of respirator and in a well ventilated environment. Ping stopped using BeCu as they could not ensure the safety of their staff, or it cost too much to do so.

Quite apart from the health risks, I am in the patina camp, the deeper and darker the better!

Ping did not intend these clubs to be shiny and incorporated a tumbler treatment to impart a matt non glare finish to the clubs. The natural process of oxidation or patina took care of things from there.

Each to their own, have your clubs as you like them but do so safely!

 

[RMach]

1 hour ago, ezgoer said:

Boy I’m far from any type of expert but I thought beryllium was a very toxic material to work with. That and cost a couple of the reasons it went away in iron sets. Almost sure I’ve read warnings about the dust from sanding or grinding. Someone else can confirm this or probably best to actually search it out for yourself.

 

 To each their own. I use to like the new shiny penny look. Now I’d be devastated if I lost the dark “patina” and almost sulfur like staining in my ZING and 1a putters. I don’t necessarily like the beat up nicks and dents “patina” from years of use look on vintage clubs though other than this. 
 

 Please share some pictures. Sure there’s plenty of people that like the shiny new look.

 

 Not saying my preferences are right. Just want to make sure we are all safe. I will actually be glad to be proven wrong. As usual I know just enough to usually end up being dangerous 

Hi bud, yes it is very toxic to work with. That said I want to be crystal clear because you are right. Do not take a beryllium copper club and sand it down on some fancy sander then polish it on a high speed polishing grinder looking polishing wheel. But I do not ever suggest using that equipment on any vintage club. 

I ONLY suggest that a liquid polish used with a low speed $30.00 Walmart dual action handheld polisher and a thick terry cloth bonnet can be done safely. I suggest wearing an N95 mask and safety glasses when polishing anything but that is up to the person I think.

Great point, these YouTube club restorers take all kinds of metal off the clubs. My method simply cannot remove actual metal.

[ezgoer]

2 hours ago, RMach said:

Hi all, it took 2hrs, a random orbiting POLISHER, 3M #1 metal polish, 3M #3 metal polish and Maguires Black car polish.

This club was 100% brown in color. I have a very very cheap and old phone that takes crappy pictures. I assure you that this club shines brighter than any brand new penny.

Here is my best picture indoors. If you care to see the mirror shine with pine trees as a background let me know and I will bust out my good camera.

Pretty proud how this turned out guys.

I suggest not doing the "soak it in coke" or "just use Braso" approach as you are NOT removing the oxidation. I turned 12 terry cloth bonnets pitch black polishing this club. That is how you pull 40 years(?) of oxidation out of metal. Hope this helps someone with their Pings and the like.

I cannot add a picture. Neither a live photo nor one stored in my phone. But that is how you do it.

Okay I had to upload from my computer. Look I am sorry that I am shirtless in the last reflection but it is like 90+ with super high humidity and this was hard work. But sorry.

Also, the Beryllium is toxic during manufacturing. I seriously doubt that polishing nor handling the clubs causes any concerns but you do you. 

Pictures just showed up. Wow, have to admit that is stunning looking! Although my chrome 8802 putter has me searching out a mat finished one cuz it’s too shiny in bright sunshine. It’s a quarter the size of that. That club must sparkle from across the course like a bass boat with that big chunk heavy metal flake paint job does from across the lake. 
Pretty cool!

Edited September 5, 2023 by ezgoer

[RMach]

1 hour ago, bcstones said:

The picture for some reason didn't come thru.....that's okay, I'm like ezgoer & sheepdawg, I'd probably cringe at the sight. A number of my family are antique-ers, & I've listened to them.  I do hate to tell you....but that 40 years of oxidation - it's called "patina", and to a collector or an antique-er highly desireable. In fact, over half it's value to a collector/antique-er is destroyed when removed. Removing dirt or rust is one thing but anything more, at least to a collector, is another. 
There are probably many who, like you, enjoy the shiny & new look for old irons. No problem, to each their own.

 

I know, and yep that patina sure is nice. But the club is called the "Golden Scottie" not the "brown poopy" lol. So I like mine super duper duper shiny. I am sure other may enjoy that too. For the $3.99 that I paid for it, I doubt I took too much value off of her.

[RMach]

5 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

Pictures just showed up. Wow, have to admit that is stunning looking! Although my chrome 8802 putter has me searching out a mat finished one cuz it’s too shiny in bright sunshine. It’s a quarter the size of that. That club must sparkle from across the course like a bass boat with that big chunk heavy metal flake paint job does from across the lake. 
Pretty cool!

Thanks a bunch!

[bcstones]

10 minutes ago, RMach said:

I know, and yep that patina sure is nice. But the club is called the "Golden Scottie" not the "brown poopy" lol. So I like mine super duper duper shiny. I am sure other may enjoy that too. For the $3.99 that I paid for it, I doubt I took too much value off of her.

it's ok...we'll agree to disagree. I did check the similar sold clubs on the bay thingie - anywhere from $35-$60 (item + shipping). So you're $3.99 was a good buy for the "brown poopie". However, if I was remotely interested in a similar club - I'd pay the $60 for a "brown poopie"....I even doubt I'd pay $5 for such a shiny one....again it's all about preferences - I'm on old coot, I've got no problems w/age & experience showing itself.

Enjoy your club, you should....have fun - isn't that what the Game of Golf is all about?

[sheepdawg]

1 hour ago, ezgoer said:

You do have me thinking though and I may have to admit to being a bit hypocritical cuz I do like the shiny ness of this earlier run Anser essentially time capsule putter I recently got. Not exactly sure the vintage but it has the black shaft label used from 69-76 and it still looks like it’s just months out of a pro shop.

85029 zip is the same zip used on the dalehead Ansers. That's not a dalehead but the first batches of non dalehead Ansers used that zip. That, the grip and trademark symbols says probably 70 or 71.

 

[RMach]

1 hour ago, ezgoer said:

Pictures just showed up. Wow, have to admit that is stunning looking! Although my chrome 8802 putter has me searching out a mat finished one cuz it’s too shiny in bright sunshine. It’s a quarter the size of that. That club must sparkle from across the course like a bass boat with that big chunk heavy metal flake paint job does from across the lake. 
Pretty cool!

I just finished polishing my 1989 Quantum bass boat too. 30 years of oxidation took Forever to sand off then you polish and polish but she looks better now too 🥴.

[RMach]

3 hours ago, ezgoer said:

Boy I’m far from any type of expert but I thought beryllium was a very toxic material to work with. That and cost a couple of the reasons it went away in iron sets. Almost sure I’ve read warnings about the dust from sanding or grinding. Someone else can confirm this or probably best to actually search it out for yourself.

 

 To each their own. I use to like the new shiny penny look. Now I’d be devastated if I lost the dark “patina” and almost sulfur like staining in my ZING and 1a putters. I don’t necessarily like the beat up nicks and dents “patina” from years of use look on vintage clubs though other than this. 
 

 Please share some pictures. Sure there’s plenty of people that like the shiny new look.

 

 Not saying my preferences are right. Just want to make sure we are all safe. I will actually be glad to be proven wrong. As usual I know just enough to usually end up being dangerous 

Thank you for your reply and concern. Very cool. Yeah, I used a paste style polish so no metal "cutting" properties. I used a low speed handheld buffer and deep terry cloth bonnets to trap everything or close to it.

I figured that since these drivers sell on eBay for under $15 I could always get another patina one if I do not like this one.

I did add the pictures.

Thanks again!

[ezgoer]

28 minutes ago, sheepdawg said:

85029 zip is the same zip used on the dalehead Ansers. That's not a dalehead but the first batches of non dalehead Ansers used that zip. That, the grip and trademark symbols says probably 70 or 71.

 

Thanks, been wanting to talk to a PING person about this. Came with a set of 1976 Wilson Staff irons, laminated woods and R90 sw all in similar unbelievable condition. I was figuring 76 or maybe a couple years earlier due to possibly older at the time pro shop stock when whoever purchased everything. 
 Not sure what I’m gonna due with it cuz unfortunately it’s about 31 inches long. I usually don’t worry about value but wondered if this club could be a little different. Doesn’t feel right cutting off an original grip and extending to use on a club this nice. 

[Shilgy]

@RMach

Nice polishing job…not my personal cup of tea but it looks pretty.

 

 

That said…must I remind you that we have a strict dress code here at wrx? Put your shirt on before taking selfies! 🤣

[Swingingk]

Nice job, it looks pretty snazzy.  Much nicer than it was I'm sure.  I like the patina thing too but wood heads are supposed to look shiney so this works.  Woods have so much visible surface area... man it must have looked like a real pig before you worked it.  Haha!  Will you be giving it a coat of clear to keep it from tarnishing?

 

It sounds like you are aware of the toxicity issues with BeCu which is good.  As a life-long machinist and metalworker, please allow me to add my own personal recommendations for working with this material safely.  This is not a lecture or flame or anything like that, I just know that a lot of people dig the BeCu thing and this thread title will likely attract viewers from far and wide for a long time to come so why not make it something of a reference for the good of everyone?

 

Firstly I'd like to say that while it is true that Beryllium Copper is indeed a relatively toxic material as compared to other golf club materials, it is not dangerous to handle or use.  I wouldn't cook a steak on a BeCu grill and I wouldn't make a water bottle out of it but it does make a fine putter.  The real problem is the dust generated from sanding and polishing processes.  Chips from drilling or machining are okay as you can't absorb big chunks but dust is bad as it gets in your lungs.  Don't make dust and you're good.  Use the following techniques and you should be golden (pun intended!  Haha).

 

- Wear disposable gloves and an apron you can wash afterwards.  A respirator shouldn't be necessary unless your using poor technique and making actual dust in which case a half mask respirator with appropriate particulate filter cartridges must be used.  That said it certainly doesnt hurt to use one so please do if you think you need to.  An N-95 mask is NOT enough if you're going to insist on making dust.  If you're smart enough to wear the appropriate PPE while making BeCu dust then be even smarter and don't make the dust in the first place.

 

- Do your work over a sheet of plastic so that you can contain your mess and easily dispose of it.

 

- Keep everything wet.  Wet sand only to keep the dust down.  File with water or oil.  The object is to keep the fine particulate contained so keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can occasionally spritz everything down.  Wipe up with wet rags and dispose of them before they can dry.

 

- Do use hand tools only.  Do not use high speed polishing tools such as polishing wheels or die grinders.  It is possible to use power tools but for the size of our work here, files and wet sanding are better options.  

 

- Do not overheat or weld this material - the fumes are no good.  Heating to remove a shaft is fine but don't go nuts on it.  Don't melt it.  If you need to weld it then just replace it.

 

- I almost forgot to add that cream polishes used with rags by hand or with low speed power polishers are fine as the particulate is contained in the rag/polishing wheel.  I really like Weenol myself.  Do not use high speed polishing wheels as the dust will get into the air around you.  Dispose of everything - yes the polishing wheel too - afterwards.  Get it all wet and tie a plastic bag around it before throwing it out.

Edited September 6, 2023 by Swingingk

[elwhippy]

Please tell me you were masked up. BeCu heads were cancelled due to toxicity.

[JungleJimbo]

14 hours ago, RMach said:

Hi all, it took 2hrs, a random orbiting POLISHER, 3M #1 metal polish, 3M #3 metal polish and Maguires Black car polish.

This club was 100% brown in color. I have a very very cheap and old phone that takes crappy pictures. I assure you that this club shines brighter than any brand new penny.

Here is my best picture indoors. If you care to see the mirror shine with pine trees as a background let me know and I will bust out my good camera.

Pretty proud how this turned out guys.

I suggest not doing the "soak it in coke" or "just use Braso" approach as you are NOT removing the oxidation. I turned 12 terry cloth bonnets pitch black polishing this club. That is how you pull 40 years(?) of oxidation out of metal. Hope this helps someone with their Pings and the like.

I cannot add a picture. Neither a live photo nor one stored in my phone. But that is how you do it.

Okay I had to upload from my computer. Look I am sorry that I am shirtless in the last reflection but it is like 90+ with super high humidity and this was hard work. But sorry.

Also, the Beryllium is toxic during manufacturing. I seriously doubt that polishing nor handling the clubs causes any concerns but you do you. 

@RMach Nice job OP... any "before" photos with the patina

a.k.a. described as 'brown poopy' in an earlier post?

 

...Edit: Found these examples via a google-search

... IMHO the patina = can look quite nice!

 

 

11 hours ago, bcstones said:

it's ok...we'll agree to disagree. I did check the similar sold clubs on the bay thingie - anywhere from $35-$60 (item + shipping). So you're $3.99 was a good buy for the "brown poopie". However, if I was remotely interested in a similar club - I'd pay the $60 for a "brown poopie"....I even doubt I'd pay $5 for such a shiny one....again it's all about preferences - I'm on old coot, I've got no problems w/age & experience showing itself.

Enjoy your club, you should....have fun - isn't that what the Game of Golf is all about?

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by JungleJimbo

[RMach]

9 hours ago, Swingingk said:

Nice job, it looks pretty snazzy.  Much nicer than it was I'm sure.  I like the patina thing too but wood heads are supposed to look shiney so this works.  Woods have so much visible surface area... man it must have looked like a real pig before you worked it.  Haha!  Will you be giving it a coat of clear to keep it from tarnishing?

 

It sounds like you are aware of the toxicity issues with BeCu which is good.  As a life-long machinist and metalworker, please allow me to add my own personal recommendations for working with this material safely.  This is not a lecture or flame or anything like that, I just know that a lot of people dig the BeCu thing and this thread title will likely attract viewers from far and wide for a long time to come so why not make it something of a reference for the good of everyone?

 

Firstly I'd like to say that while it is true that Beryllium Copper is indeed a relatively toxic material as compared to other golf club materials, it is not dangerous to handle or use.  I wouldn't cook a steak on a BeCu grill and I wouldn't make a water bottle out of it but it does make a fine putter.  The real problem is the dust generated from sanding and polishing processes.  Chips from drilling or machining are okay as you can't absorb big chunks but dust is bad as it gets in your lungs.  Don't make dust and you're good.  Use the following techniques and you should be golden (pun intended!  Haha).

 

- Wear disposable gloves and an apron you can wash afterwards.  A respirator shouldn't be necessary unless your using poor technique and making actual dust in which case a half mask respirator with appropriate particulate filter cartridges must be used.  That said it certainly doesnt hurt to use one so please do if you think you need to.  An N-95 mask is NOT enough if you're going to insist on making dust.  If you're smart enough to wear the appropriate PPE while making BeCu dust then be even smarter and don't make the dust in the first place.

 

- Do your work over a sheet of plastic so that you can contain your mess and easily dispose of it.

 

- Keep everything wet.  Wet sand only to keep the dust down.  File with water or oil.  The object is to keep the fine particulate contained so keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can occasionally spritz everything down.  Wipe up with wet rags and dispose of them before they can dry.

 

- Do use hand tools only.  Do not use high speed polishing tools such as polishing wheels or die grinders.  It is possible to use power tools but for the size of our work here, files and wet sanding are better options.  

 

- Do not overheat or weld this material - the fumes are no good.  Heating to remove a shaft is fine but don't go nuts on it.  Don't melt it.  If you need to weld it then just replace it.

 

- I almost forgot to add that cream polishes used with rags by hand or with low speed power polishers are fine as the particulate is contained in the rag/polishing wheel.  I really like Weenol myself.  Do not use high speed polishing wheels as the dust will get into the air around you.  Dispose of everything - yes the polishing wheel too - afterwards.  Get it all wet and tie a plastic bag around it before throwing it out.

Perfectly said!

Also, I did this outside on a windy day. I used a new terry cloth bonnets as soon as the black reached the outside of my pad and a $30 random orbiting polisher from Walmart. Very slow speed. I kept the club wet by applying a drop or three of the liquid polish.

[RMach]

5 hours ago, JungleJimbo said:

@RMach Nice job OP... any "before" photos with the patina

a.k.a. described as 'brown poopy' in an earlier post?

 

...Edit: Found these examples via a google-search

... IMHO the patina = can look quite nice!

 

 

 

Yeah, mine looked exactly like the top ones. I mean I guess I can say that I do get why folks like patina and classical music and polo. But for me and mine; shiny, rock and roll and fishing!

[kmay__]

Looks great, nice work! 

[JungleJimbo]

11 minutes ago, RMach said:

Yeah, mine looked exactly like the top ones. I mean I guess I can say that I do get why folks like patina and classical music and polo. But for me and mine; shiny, rock and roll and fishing!

 

Isn't "rock & roll" = debauched & more likely to DGAF w.r.t. shiny instruments?

 

IMHO ... shiny copper/brass = you're in a brass band/ marching band! 

(Don't @ me!) 

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by JungleJimbo

[Yacho]

That thing looks AWESOME!!!

 

The patina vibe is cool in it's own "there's history here" kind of way, but this turns heads and starts conversations.  Every time.  Max fun with this version, for sure!

 

I ended up with a TM V-steel 5w that I polished to a mirror finish after my 1st attempt at a paint job didn't take.  Every time I pull it out and lay it down behind the ball on the course, I hear one of my buddies mumble "that thing is so cool..."

 

Bravo!  9.9/10 (docking 0.1pt for a uniform infraction technicality 😄)

[golfunderpar18]

On 9/5/2023 at 5:43 PM, ezgoer said:

Thanks, been wanting to talk to a PING person about this. Came with a set of 1976 Wilson Staff irons, laminated woods and R90 sw all in similar unbelievable condition. I was figuring 76 or maybe a couple years earlier due to possibly older at the time pro shop stock when whoever purchased everything. 
 Not sure what I’m gonna due with it cuz unfortunately it’s about 31 inches long. I usually don’t worry about value but wondered if this club could be a little different. Doesn’t feel right cutting off an original grip and extending to use on a club this nice. 

Below provides some insight and date ranges as it relates to the ping anser putter line.   Shaft band and grip also can help determine age.  As for yours if you are worried about ruining the value there is no need to.  This is a $30-40 putter.   Not collectible. These putters are super light to begin with so if you want to regrip, lenghten and game it also look at putting some weight down the shaft.  I’m not a fan of lead tape myself. Think this line of Phoenix ansers are a great value putter and would be good for those putting together sets for newer players at budget prices.  I’ve been a Facebook admin on various PING Facebook groups for a number of years. 
 

From 1959 the address was REDWOOD CITY with no zip code

 

The Scottsdale AZ address with 85282 zip code was from 1961-1966.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code from mid-1966 through 1967.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85020 zip code from 1968-1973.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85068 zip code from 1973 to 2000.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code (again) from 2000 to present-day. (The 85029 zip code is the zip code for the physical street address of Ping Headquarters, which it has been at since mid-1966)

 

All the other zip codes were for P.O. Box addresses

[bcstones]

2 hours ago, golfunderpar18 said:

Below provides some insight and date ranges as it relates to the ping anser putter line.   Shaft band and grip also can help determine age.  As for yours if you are worried about ruining the value there is no need to.  This is a $30-40 putter.   Not collectible. These putters are super light to begin with so if you want to regrip, lenghten and game it also look at putting some weight down the shaft.  I’m not a fan of lead tape myself. Think this line of Phoenix ansers are a great value putter and would be good for those putting together sets for newer players at budget prices.  I’ve been a Facebook admin on various PING Facebook groups for a number of years. 
 

From 1959 the address was REDWOOD CITY with no zip code

 

The Scottsdale AZ address with 85282 zip code was from 1961-1966.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code from mid-1966 through 1967.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85020 zip code from 1968-1973.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85068 zip code from 1973 to 2000.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code (again) from 2000 to present-day. (The 85029 zip code is the zip code for the physical street address of Ping Headquarters, which it has been at since mid-1966)

 

All the other zip codes were for P.O. Box addresses

I remember Odell, the Elder Pro I helped, saying that the placement of the zipcode was also an indicator. Like the 029 - if the zipcode was at the bottom, it was from the earlier time & if on the side, then it was the later. 
He kinda sorta inferred the same held for reissues (as best I can remember…he wrote it out for me, but I lost it in my move, probably a bookmark somewhere) 

[golfunderpar18]

5 hours ago, bcstones said:

I remember Odell, the Elder Pro I helped, saying that the placement of the zipcode was also an indicator. Like the 029 - if the zipcode was at the bottom, it was from the earlier time & if on the side, then it was the later. 
He kinda sorta inferred the same held for reissues (as best I can remember…he wrote it out for me, but I lost it in my move, probably a bookmark somewhere) 

There are so many iterations of the anser. The info above should be helpful and directional in most cases.  Your shaft band and grip would indicate it’s an earlier model.  I couldn’t see the zip code on yours.  Love the older grip with Mr ping.  Hard to find these in good condition.

[ezgoer]

Sorry, feel bad about hijacking so took this and other questions over to Old Ping putters thread 

[sheepdawg]

8 hours ago, golfunderpar18 said:

Below provides some insight and date ranges as it relates to the ping anser putter line.   Shaft band and grip also can help determine age.  As for yours if you are worried about ruining the value there is no need to.  This is a $30-40 putter.   Not collectible. These putters are super light to begin with so if you want to regrip, lenghten and game it also look at putting some weight down the shaft.  I’m not a fan of lead tape myself. Think this line of Phoenix ansers are a great value putter and would be good for those putting together sets for newer players at budget prices.  I’ve been a Facebook admin on various PING Facebook groups for a number of years. 
 

From 1959 the address was REDWOOD CITY with no zip code

 

The Scottsdale AZ address with 85282 zip code was from 1961-1966.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code from mid-1966 through 1967.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85020 zip code from 1968-1973.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85068 zip code from 1973 to 2000.

 

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code (again) from 2000 to present-day. (The 85029 zip code is the zip code for the physical street address of Ping Headquarters, which it has been at since mid-1966)

 

All the other zip codes were for P.O. Box addresses

Those zips are not set in stone. The My Day came out in 1970 and you can find them with the 85029 zip all day long. I have a dalehead Anser, 85029 zip, and it has trademark symbols on it. Trademark symbols started being used in 1970. You'll find many a post dalehead Anser with 85029 zips and trademark symbols Dating a Ping putter by zip code is not the most reliable way out there. A combination of things, grips, bands, stamps, zips is better. As with many collectables nothing to do with Ping is set in stone.

[golfunderpar18]

14 hours ago, sheepdawg said:

Those zips are not set in stone. The My Day came out in 1970 and you can find them with the 85029 zip all day long. I have a dalehead Anser, 85029 zip, and it has trademark symbols on it. Trademark symbols started being used in 1970. You'll find many a post dalehead Anser with 85029 zips and trademark symbols Dating a Ping putter by zip code is not the most reliable way out there. A combination of things, grips, bands, stamps, zips is better. As with many collectables nothing to do with Ping is set in stone.

Correct - As stated it’s directional and as I mentioned is for the anser line.   Not for other models.   Original shafts, shaft bands, original grips help as I stated.  Rob griffin is Karsten’s ping historian.  He’s a wealth of knowledge too.  Also “as the putter went ping” book.   Hundreds of thousands of anser putters out there. Not always easy to date them beyond a range.   Different to their iron line which were serialized with manufacturing dates  tracked.  Used to be done on paper.

Edited September 8, 2023 by golfunderpar18