HOW TO CLEAN A SCOTTY CAMERON?

[tateoaks]

what is the best way to clean a scotty cameron/ studio style/ newport 2 /putter?

[tateoaks]

:)

[Rambler]

What do you need to clean off of it? It if it's dirt you can use soap and water. The Studio Style is made of stainless steel so it won't rust if you use the soap and water.

[Bomb and Gouge]

Soap, water and dry it.

 

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS! Stuff like Acetone will dissolve the elastomer that holds the insert in place.

[longball]

Soap, water and dry it.

 

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS! Stuff like Acetone will dissolve the elastomer that holds the insert in place.

 

The insert is held in place by the screws. The elastomer is for looks and vibration dampening.

[Bomb and Gouge]

Soap, water and dry it.

 

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS! Stuff like Acetone will dissolve the elastomer that holds the insert in place.

 

The insert is held in place by the screws. The elastomer is for looks and vibration dampening.

 

You're right.

 

Anyway, don't use acetone on it....that's my only point.

[greeenmike]

Hi,

I just bough a Scotty Cameron Santa Fe Te 13. Can anyone tell me how do I nee to clean it? Thank you

 

Michele

[mat562]

Hi,

I just bough a Scotty Cameron Santa Fe Te 13. Can anyone tell me how do I nee to clean it? Thank you

 

Michele

 

Basically wipe it clean. And then use something like a silicone cloth to give it an oil coating to the head. The oil will stop the carbon steel head from rusting by preventing its exposure to moisture.

 

Many people use Johnson's Baby Oil and a soft duster to apply a coating to the head.

[Bomb and Gouge]

Toothpaste works nicely on the copper insert.

 

And don't go overboard on the oil. Just a few drops is sufficient.

[greeenmike]

Thank you Mat and BOMB,

 

Matt: which oil would you use? I added some picture of my putter and I think it is in good condition so I would like to keep ip so. So which oil is truly recomended?

 

Last question, after applying th oil what do I do, leave it aside and put it back in the cover or straight back in?

 

 

 

BOMB: Toothpaste realy,how come? Isn't it a bit too corrosive? Also how many time a week or every time after you play that you clean it up?

 

Last question, should I have a spare headcover for when I have dried it up?

 

Cheers Bomb

 

Michele

[mat562]

Michele

 

I've actually got an SC oil cloth in a Zip Loc bag that I use for my blued putters. It's basically a pre-oiled cloth that lasts for years. They're relatively inexpensive, do the job perfectly and last for years.

 

A slightly cheaper option is to go the DIY route. Find a fine, lint free cloth (e.g. a bog standard yellow duster) and just wet it with a modest amount of Johnson's Baby Oil or a quality silicone solution. I know some people actually moisten the lining of their headcovers with baby oil to keep the head protected too, but I don't go that far. Oiling the cloth alone will put plenty enough of the stuff onto your putter with a regular wipe, and there's no need to drench it, either, and end up with a greasy mess. Just a small amount is enough.

 

Once you've given it a wipe over with a cloth, it'll remain protected; and the headcover will naturally get a little bit of oil residue built up within the fur lining over time, too, which will also help maintain the coating even while the putter's being used. After play, wipe the head down and give it a once over with your oil cloth and it'll be fine until it's next used.

 

The only time I'd use another cover is if you play in the rain and the regular one gets saturated. Never leave your putter in a wet headcover post-play, however well-oiled it is, as it's a potential breeding ground for rust.

 

Nice putter you've got, by the way. Well worth looking after. :)

[greeenmike]

Hi Matt,

thank you for the recomendation I have found that SC cloth on the Ebay US website so I will get it there. Regarding the extra headcover well I play just outside London so lots of rain. I will get hold of another one and fill it with oil and use it in my golf bag. The one that you see in the picture will be used after TLC has been applied post round of golf.

 

Thank you for the compliment to my new acquisition, I have been waiting to buy that particular model for a long long time. It did set me back a bit but hey look at it!! I will skip lunch and dinner for next few days or weeks for it no problem.

 

 

I think very few golf clubs can make you happy and this is one of them. :)

 

ps: any other tips are more then welcome

[azone]

Treat it like you would a fine blued firearm. The oxide finish is what holds the oil, you don't need a thick surface film of it. I highly recommend keeping it out of a headcover unless it is being transported or played-- storing it in a headcover will promote rust.

[Peoples Golf]

i use an oil cloth, from scotty cameron. they are like 10 bucks.

[greeenmike]

here you go (from another website - thank to Anthony2000

For many of you, this topic isn't a new one. Hopefully some of the TCC newbie's will find it interesting.

 

I rarely buy used putters that have visible rust present. Well....I recently couldn't turn down an opportunity to pick up a Santa Fe Tei3. As you can see from the pictures below, there were many spots of rust all over the head of the putter. I really didn't want to send it back to the custom shop to be restored so I figured I'd try to clean it up a bit. I remembered hearing a few friends say that they had used a product called Flitz to remove rust from putters so off to the hardware store I went to pick it up. I removed the rust easily but you can still see where the finish is bare in these spots. Of course, now maintenance and protection of these spots will be very important because they are very susceptible to rust again. For those of you that may be interested in cleaning up a rusty putter, here were my steps in case you'd like to try it.

 

Step 1:

Apply Flitz with a soft towel. Don't let the paste dry onto the putter during application. Work Flitz into small areas and buff off with a clean part of the towel. This step may need to be repeated several times on to ensure complete removal of rust.

 

Step 2:

Apply Brasso to the copper insert with soft towel and then buff off. You can also use tooth paste to clean the insert but for me it just takes too long compared to using brasso. It has the right amount of abrasiveness to do a great job.

 

Step 3:

Use a tooth brush and warm soapy water (any liquid detergent) and clean the putter head and grip. Scrub into the engraved areas to make sure and the paint fill is clean. Since the Tei3 has white paint fill, I used a cleaning product called Bleach White. It worked great especially when I cleaned the lettering in the old cord grip.

 

Step 4:

Rinse the putter off and dry thoroughly with a soft towel. Make sure ALL moisture is removed. No matter what, do not place the putter back into the headcover for storage right after this step. Just give it a bit so that the moisture in the tiny crevices can dry.

 

Step 5:

Application of baby oil. The putter needs some serious protection now that the rust free (and finish free) areas are exposed. The baby oil will do this job but it tends to attract sand and dirt quite easily if you play with the putter right after application. So when the putter is going to be in storage, I'll use baby oil. When I'm going to game the putter, see step 6.

 

Step 6:

Application of silicone spray. CRC silicone spray is a great product for our putters. The old rule of thumb is to use an "odorless" silicone spray. On putters with gun blue, brushed black, oil can and flamed finishes (chromatics) I enjoy using silicone because it does a good job protecting the putter but isn't sticky to attract sand and dirt.

 

Few more good ones:

 

The "oil" cloths everyone talks about are not oil they are silicone cloths. Pick up a spray (aerosol) can of silicone and BEFORE you play a round of golf spray your putter, heavy. You will find that moisture does not stick to it, dirt does not stick to it, fertilizer does not stick to it, you can not see the silicone, and it has no ill effects: unless you put your hands all over you putter head then your hands become a little slick. WD 40 or gun oil is good for storing your putter but not when playing, IMO.

 

[/size]

 

Just a quick wipe at the bag and stick it in the head cover after each green. The head cover gets silicone in it and the putter will not get any rust. It does not matter the finish, gun blue, oil can, black pearl, pro platinum, etc. If you spray with silicone you are good to go and if you so not any putter with any finish will eventually spot or rust. FROM JR

 

 

Funny but somewhat usefull:

 

The Cameron "oil" cloth is a misnomer. It is a silicone cloth. Somewhere people started talking about baby oil, gun oil, etc. These are fine for a baby's a** and your 357 but when was the last time you dragged your baby or 357 across a freshly mowed green with dew, fertilizer and chemicals on it? Add petroleum products to fertilizer and chemicals and you have an explosive mixture. There will also be an explosion when you see some pitting and discoloration on your putter from the fertilizer and chemicals sticking to the oil on your putter and causing a reaction. From JR

 

 

 

Hi guys... this is my first post. I am and have been a professional gunsmith for 18 years or so. Most guys are on the right track, except for a few. First a blue (carbon) steel firearm carried as a duty weapon will see more abuse, ie. body salts from sweat, small nicks that will allow the oxidation process to accelerate and yes, dropping on a fertilized lawn. The guys that are using baby oil with the Scotty rag, are wasting baby oil. No harm, just redundant. The Scotty rag and most yellow oily smelly rags are in fact, silicone. The best choice, in my opinion, someone even posted a picture, is the Birchwood-casey silicone rag. No nasty odors, just wipe on, wipe off. The silicone sprays are excellent also but be careful not to rub with a rag too aggressively. This goes for all rags also! Excessive wiping will remove the black oxide finish, slowly for sure, but it WILL remove the finish. thats it!

 

 

I just wipe my putter down in between walking off the green and onto the next tee with a wet side of a towel to remove any dirt, grime, etc and dry it off with the dry side of the towel. That way dirt stays out of the cover and the headcover stays dry and the putter keeps its luster and remains rust free.

 

 

These info are very usefull so thank you to JR and Anthony and professional gunsmith

[yoshiod9]

wow-- i just got a teryllium newport 2 in and used the methods from greeenmike's post and now it looks amazing. using the brasso on the insert worked like a charm-- i only rubbed for about 10 seconds and the whole thing looks like a shiny new penny! i couldn't find flitz in any stores locally so i'm going to have to wait for a little bit before i try removing the minuscule amounts of rust i found. anyway-- thanks!

[bsu_05]

[quote name='greeenmike' timestamp='1211971026' post='1089731']
here you go (from another website - thank to Anthony2000
For many of you, this topic isn't a new one. Hopefully some of the TCC newbie's will find it interesting.

I rarely buy used putters that have visible rust present. Well....I recently couldn't turn down an opportunity to pick up a Santa Fe Tei3. As you can see from the pictures below, there were many spots of rust all over the head of the putter. I really didn't want to send it back to the custom shop to be restored so I figured I'd try to clean it up a bit. I remembered hearing a few friends say that they had used a product called Flitz to remove rust from putters so off to the hardware store I went to pick it up. I removed the rust easily but you can still see where the finish is bare in these spots. Of course, now maintenance and protection of these spots will be very important because they are very susceptible to rust again. For those of you that may be interested in cleaning up a rusty putter, here were my steps in case you'd like to try it.

Step 1:
Apply Flitz with a soft towel. Don't let the paste dry onto the putter during application. Work Flitz into small areas and buff off with a clean part of the towel. This step may need to be repeated several times on to ensure complete removal of rust.

Step 2:
Apply Brasso to the copper insert with soft towel and then buff off. You can also use tooth paste to clean the insert but for me it just takes too long compared to using brasso. It has the right amount of abrasiveness to do a great job.

Step 3:
Use a tooth brush and warm soapy water (any liquid detergent) and clean the putter head and grip. Scrub into the engraved areas to make sure and the paint fill is clean. Since the Tei3 has white paint fill, I used a cleaning product called Bleach White. It worked great especially when I cleaned the lettering in the old cord grip.

Step 4:
Rinse the putter off and dry thoroughly with a soft towel. Make sure ALL moisture is removed. No matter what, do not place the putter back into the headcover for storage right after this step. Just give it a bit so that the moisture in the tiny crevices can dry.

Step 5:
Application of baby oil. The putter needs some serious protection now that the rust free (and finish free) areas are exposed. The baby oil will do this job but it tends to attract sand and dirt quite easily if you play with the putter right after application. So when the putter is going to be in storage, I'll use baby oil. When I'm going to game the putter, see step 6.

Step 6:
Application of silicone spray. CRC silicone spray is a great product for our putters. The old rule of thumb is to use an "odorless" silicone spray. On putters with gun blue, brushed black, oil can and flamed finishes (chromatics) I enjoy using silicone because it does a good job protecting the putter but isn't sticky to attract sand and dirt.

Few more good ones:

[size="3"]The "oil" cloths everyone talks about are not oil they [u][b]are silicone cloths[/b][/u]. Pick up a spray (aerosol) can of silicone and [b]BEFORE [/b]you play a round of golf spray your putter, heavy. You will find that moisture does not stick to it, dirt does not stick to it, fertilizer does not stick to it, you can not see the silicone, and it has no ill effects: unless you put your hands all over you putter head then your hands become a little slick. [b]WD 40 or gun oil[/b] is good for storing your putter but [b]not[/b] when playing, IMO.[/size]

[/size]

[size="3"]Just a quick wipe at the bag and stick it in the head cover after each green. The head cover gets silicone in it and the putter will not get any rust. It does not matter the finish, gun blue, oil can, black pearl, pro platinum, etc. If you spray with silicone you are good to go and if you so not any putter with any finish will eventually spot or rust. [b]FROM JR[/b][/size]



[size="3"]Funny but somewhat usefull: [/size]

[size="3"][b]The Cameron "oil" cloth is a misnomer[/b]. It is a silicone cloth. Somewhere people started talking about baby oil, gun oil, etc. These are fine for a baby's a** and your 357 but when was the last time you dragged your baby or 357 across a freshly mowed green with dew, fertilizer and chemicals on it? Add petroleum products to fertilizer and chemicals and you have an explosive mixture. There will also be an explosion when you see some pitting and discoloration on your putter from the fertilizer and chemicals sticking to the oil on your putter and causing a reaction. [b]From JR[/b][/size]





[size="3"]Hi guys... this is my first post. I am and have been a professional gunsmith for 18 years or so. Most guys are on the right track, except for a few. First a blue (carbon) steel firearm carried as a duty weapon will see more abuse, ie. body salts from sweat, small nicks that will allow the oxidation process to accelerate and yes, dropping on a fertilized lawn. The guys that are using baby oil with the Scotty rag, are wasting baby oil. No harm, just redundant. The Scotty rag and most yellow oily smelly rags are in fact, silicone. The best choice, in my opinion, someone even posted a picture, is the Birchwood-casey silicone rag. No nasty odors, just wipe on, wipe off. The silicone sprays are excellent also but be careful not to rub with a rag too aggressively. This goes for all rags also! Excessive wiping will remove the black oxide finish, slowly for sure, but it WILL remove the finish. thats it![/size]



[size="3"]I just wipe my putter down in between walking off the green and onto the next tee with a wet side of a towel to remove any dirt, grime, etc and dry it off with the dry side of the towel. That way dirt stays out of the cover and the headcover stays dry and the putter keeps its luster and remains rust free.


[b]These info are very usefull so thank you to JR and Anthony and professional gunsmith[/b]
[/quote]

Mike,

I've recently purchased a Studio Design 1 and was curious in how to remove some rust. Should I skip your steps 2 and 3 since mine has no insert? Thanks for all the great info!

[RookieBlue7]

I, personally, prefer Eezox gun oil for my Scotties. I'd used silicone for years, but was turned on to Eezox by LaMont, and it works GREAT. If I run out, I use CRC SP-350 silicone based spray (it has a rust inhibitor).

[TJCDAS]

The best option is to use the Scotty Cameron brand putter soap. It only cost $29.99 for 2 oz. The First of 500 are on special for $59.99 for 2 oz. The cool thing is that the bottle screw caps are able to be customized for only $19.99. For another $29.99 you can customize the color of the soap. Using any other soap will void your warranty.

[hebron1427]

[quote name='TJCDAS' timestamp='1308154470' post='3309381']
The best option is to use the Scotty Cameron brand putter soap. It only cost $29.99 for 2 oz. The First of 500 are on special for $59.99 for 2 oz. The cool thing is that the bottle screw caps are able to be customized for only $19.99. For another $29.99 you can customize the color of the soap. Using any other soap will void your warranty.
[/quote]

[Nhlgoaliem39]

[quote name='Bomb and Gouge' timestamp='1204820415' post='953191']
[quote name='longball' post='953159' date='Mar 6 2008, 10:04 AM'][quote name='Bomb and Gouge' post='953145' date='Mar 6 2008, 11:59 AM']Soap, water and dry it.

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS! Stuff like Acetone will dissolve the elastomer that holds the insert in place.[/quote]

The insert is held in place by the screws. The elastomer is for looks and vibration dampening.
[/quote]

You're right.

Anyway, don't use acetone on it....that's my only point.
[/quote]

Acetone will take the paint fill out also.

[Gainzini]

SILICONE LUBRICANT the best ! Shines great, when dry is not sticky . I use on all of my Scotty's

[stevopagolf]

I like Barkeepers friend in the liquid form for cleaning and removing rust. Very gentle on the finish. Easier to find than Flitz.

Afterwards I use YAMALUBE silicone lubricant. Pretty slick stuff lasts a long time.

[Colin20]

[quote name='stevopagolf' timestamp='1419089593' post='10620723']
Afterwards I use YAMALUBE silicone lubricant. Pretty slick stuff lasts a long time.
[/quote]

Which version? I have seen both blue label and yellow labels.

Thanks

[Gainzini]

Silicone lube in any hardware store...buy any color you'd like ( same ingredients as yamalube ) only not promoted by Byron & is cheap

[stevopagolf]

[quote name='Colin20' timestamp='1420869744' post='10720379']
[quote name='stevopagolf' timestamp='1419089593' post='10620723']
Afterwards I use YAMALUBE silicone lubricant. Pretty slick stuff lasts a long time.
[/quote]

Which version? I have seen both blue label and yellow labels.

Thanks
[/quote]

Mine is YellowLabel but I think both have the same ingredients

[pingfool]

bump topic

 

I have JAT Prototype in rough shape....any suggestions?

[1puttAU]

I would also like to know what to do to rejuvenate my scotty cameron studio design 2. It is about 15 years old and has some rust spots all over. I would love to get it looking like new again. My dad has a studio design 1.5 in the same shape. Thanks for any advice.

[BYK]

Super fine steel wool for the rust spots, and then just oil it

Gotta keep it oiled, or the rust will come right back

it's amazing how fast it forms

Great putter