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The Threaded Hosels Thread


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I am reshafting some old Langert Transition irons.  The shafts in them feel too heavy and too stiff, so I will reshaft them with some pulled S300 shafts I bought online.  Pulling out the shafts from the Langert heads I noticed that the hosels are threaded.  The shafts in the Langert heads were unitized shafts, so the S300 shafts will need brass shims, which I already have here.  My question for you veterans, especially those who are experienced in these matters, is if there is anything I need to know before reshafting these irons with shimmed tapered shafts?   This is my first time encountering threaded hosels.

Langert Threaded Hosels 061624.jpg

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7 hours ago, Socrates said:

I'm pretty sure that if you looked closer they are not threaded (as in being able to screw something in), but concentric rings.  Was very common back in the days of shittyy epoxy.  The only issue one will have with hosels made this way, is that they take far more epoxy than you would normally use.  Assuming these are .355" taper and standard taper shafts will fit in there nicely.


This, it's also a design intended to guarantee a certain amount of epoxy stays in the hosel regardless of the mechanical fit. If you imagine a super tight fit that would otherwise squeeze a lot of the epoxy out creating a starved bond, these rings guarantee that an amount of epoxy pools within them and otherwise adheres to the shaft in those spots. 

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7 hours ago, Socrates said:

I'm pretty sure that if you looked closer they are not threaded (as in being able to screw something in), but concentric rings.  Was very common back in the days of shittyy epoxy.  The only issue one will have with hosels made this way, is that they take far more epoxy than you would normally use.  Assuming these are .355" taper and standard taper shafts will fit in there nicely.

 

So I do not need shims?  The previous shafts were unitized.

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Most likely, shims will be needed.  You will know if the shaft swims in the hosel.  Buy some shims with flat blades, and another set with the curved scalloped blades, then pick the set that affords the best fit.

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I see the same hosels on older Mizuno irons. Just make sure to smear epoxy inside the hosel and then lightly on the outside of the shaft. Once done, slide the desired shim on the shaft tip and insert normally. Odds are you will get a good bit of overflow back out the top of the hosel because of the small hole in the shim, but you will have good coverage in those grooves for a good bond.

 

BT

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4 hours ago, EmperorPenguin said:

I took a closer look at the hosel.  These are indeed threaded hosels, which the clubs should ideally be twisted on.  I hope I can just press in the shaft as I apply the epoxy.

Nothing, and I mean nothing has been threaded on in golf since aluminum shafts were used in the 1970's.

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5 hours ago, EmperorPenguin said:

I took a closer look at the hosel.  These are indeed threaded hosels, which the clubs should ideally be twisted on.  I hope I can just press in the shaft as I apply the epoxy.

 

Regardless of whether the hosel has an actual thread or just rings cut in, I promise you nothing is meant to screw into them. I've seen this with wood heads from the early 2000s as well. Real, honest to goodness threaded shafts existed for a while, but if I remember correctly they didn't look much like what you'd expect screw threads to look like... Of course now that I need one I can't find a photo of said threads 🤨

 

Build them as usual.

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Posted (edited)

I just finished installing the shafts.  With the shims it was impossible just to insert: it was necessary to screw on the head.  It was odd to twist in the head with the shim on the tip of the shaft, but I finally got them in there.  I had to trim off about a quarter inch from each shim so the legs would go in the hosel fully.  The sand wedge was particularly difficult because the hosel depth was shorter and felt much tighter.  They are now sitting overnight and later today I will trim down shafts.  The ferrules are perfect width, so no need to turn down.  It was a messy job for all, and epoxy was all over the place, including my hands.  Thank God for 24-hour epoxy.  Speaking of which, each club needed about 50% more epoxy than a straight, non-threaded hosel.  I could not believe how much I used for one.

Edited by EmperorPenguin
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1 hour ago, EmperorPenguin said:

I just finished installing the shafts.  With the shims it was impossible just to insert: it was necessary to screw on the head.  It was odd to twist in the head with the shim on the tip of the shaft, but I finally got them in there.  I had to trim off about a quarter inch from each shim so the legs would go in the hosel fully.  The sand wedge was particularly difficult because the hosel depth was shorter and felt much tighter.  They are now sitting overnight and later today I will trim down shafts.  The ferrules are perfect width, so no need to turn down.  It was a messy job for all, and epoxy was all over the place, including my hands.  Thank God for 24-hour epoxy.  Speaking of which, each club needed about 50% more epoxy than a straight, non-threaded hosel.  I could not believe how much I used for one.

If you had to screw the shafts in, you were using too thick of a shim.  

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