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Removing grips without cutting


scrumpy

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I've googled and googled and can't find any instuctions on how to remove a grip without cutting it. I'm new to the whole clubmaking scene and I find all of you guys instuctions very, very helpful and educating. Can someone help with some steps involved. Or at least point me in the right direction.

 

It would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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This is my technique (which I posted on another forum):

 

Tools: paint tray, white spirit/naptha/grip removal solvent (in a ketchup squirty bottle thing like in cafes) and this: http://www.golfsmith.com/browse.php?lcode=...all&Ntk=All

 

1) stand butt end in paint tray

2) roll back the grip mouth and squirt in a small amount of spirit

3) dip rod into spirit bottle to get the rod nice and wet

4) insert rod under grip and work around 360*, to a depth of halfway down the grip

5) leaving the rod in I squirt some more white spirit in and push the rod all the way down, then around 360*

6) pull the grip off, usually it slides off nice and easy

7) remove tape off of shaft while it is wet (works best), if not, then use a heat gun to crisp it and using asbestos fingers, pull it off the shaft and do a dance as it sticks to your fingers while hot

 

Heating the grip up somewhat before you start the removal process seems to help, especially with corded grips which I find will split more than regular rubber grips. There is also some tape/glue/something-I-don't-know-what that sticks like crazy to some grips/clubs and that needs a bit more brute force. I also have a grip vice which does make it easier if the grip does not pull off easy but it is not essential. I have heard of people using coathangers, but I was always taught to use the correct tool (or close to) for the job so have never bothered trying.

 

Wait until someone explains how easy it is with compressed air and you may not even bother with this...

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Here's another way but success depends on the type of grip tape and type/age of grip.

 

Arnie posts here as well and this is his post from another forum.

 

 

Arniesclubs

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

It's a new month so I will repost this:

Required tools: compressor with output of 70-90 PSI, blow gun , a safety tube (see below).

To install grip: clamp shaft in vise, apply 8" section of masking tape to shaft butt, dip mouth of grip in solvent (mineral spirits) or soapy water to depth of 1/4 to 1/2 ", start mouth of grip onto shaft in usual way, put tapered nozzle into vent hole of grip, hold grip near mouth, apply burst of air while pushing grip onto shaft from the mouth end of the grip. Grip slides on. Takes a little practice to learn how long a burst of air to give it. Air goes down inside of shaft, tries to escape out of the grip, grip expands and slides on. Remove air gun from vent hole while holding grip fully down the shaft. To align grip apply short burst of air while rotating grip to desired alignment. Start it right and you can skip alignment! This method is the easiest for installing grips on oversize butt Taylor Made Bubble shafts. No special tools needed for installation This is all done faster than most can read the how to explanation!

 

To remove grip: Place "protector" IMPORTANT over grip, punch through tape behind the vent hole (my tool is a piece of pegboard hook pressed into a hole part way through a golf ball and sharpened to a point on a belt sander), if grip tape was used to install grip shoot some solvent (mineral spirits) into the vent hole, put airgun nozzle into vent hole, apply long burst of air, grip will expand in the "protector" as air bubble travels down the shaft and tries to escape from the mouth of the grip and "pop" out the mouth (place a rag over shaft to catch the solvent (if used) spray. If air doesn't reach mouth of grip, remove airgun and reapply solvent. Once "popped" you can remove the "protector" apply bursts of air while twisting and gently pulling the grip off the shaft. Twist while applying air! You will know where the twisting is needed (if not needed, grip will just slide off shaft on cushion or air). Process is "testy" on thin grips like Callaway OEM, Tour Velvet, and! dried out corded (cut these off). All others can be saved 95% or more of the time as your skill at this method improves. If grips were installed by using MASKING TAPE as explained above you can easily save Winn grips. Winn grips on regular double stick have a save rate of approx. 90%.

 

For those who don't own a compressor, Harbor Freight usually has one on sale for $79.99-$99.99, blow gun and hose (coiled is easiest to use) will add about $20 at most.

With time savings, tape and solvent savings and ability to save and reinstall grips this is a very worthwhile investment! Get an oil lubricated compressor which will last many, many years! They run less and are quieter besides.

 

The compressor referred to is a 4 gallon tank. If you go with a smaller tank it will just run more often. Be sure to get oil lubricated!

Small compressors vs PSI is not an issue. "Toy" tire inflator type compressors have no tank, they run all the time make a lot of noise and you can't put a blow gun on them.

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The easiest way is to use a solvent can with a needle on it. The best ones I see are big metal cans where the solvent goes with a big hand pump/trigger that has a needle on the end.

 

To use:

1. Insert needle through grip anywhere on the grip.

2. Pump solvent under the grip.

3. Repeat on different parts of the grip until the grip slides off!

 

Much easier than using compressed air. :drinks:

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I know of at least 3 very prominent clubmakers (not hacks...guys at the top of the profession) that have accidentally stabbed AND injected solvent into their hands. I do not, and will never, have a solvent and needle in my shop.

 

When you are working fast, as professionals must, these things can happen. The method outlined by Arnie is much safer and once set up, very simple and easy.

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The easiest way is to use a solvent can with a needle on it. The best ones I see are big metal cans where the solvent goes with a big hand pump/trigger that has a needle on the end.

 

To use:

1. Insert needle through grip anywhere on the grip.

2. Pump solvent under the grip.

3. Repeat on different parts of the grip until the grip slides off!

 

Much easier than using compressed air. :drinks:

 

 

I know of at least 3 very prominent clubmakers (not hacks...guys at the top of the profession) that have accidentally stabbed AND injected solvent into their hands. I do not, and will never, have a solvent and needle in my shop.

 

When you are working fast, as professionals must, these things can happen. The method outlined by Arnie is much safer and once set up, very simple and easy.

 

I have used this tool about 300 times to remove grips. i wouldn't try to rush the 10 second insertion of the needle into the butt end of the grip and trim it down to 4 seconds ;)

 

The tool described above is the quickest with the only downside that the grip that is removed needs to dry for quite a while before being put on another shaft due to how the solvent doesn't want to dissolve to the point of adhesion with the adhesive underneath it.

 

The above scenario is likened by me to turning up the torch full blast to shave a few seconds off of a pull of an altus out of a ft-3. If you are that rushed you need to allocate more time or hire some newb for $10 an hour to do your re-grips.

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It might be a misread on my part, but I think the kind of "needle" that RoadWarrior was referring to is a long version of the needle that you use to inflate a basketball, not a hypodermic needle (I don't think the latter would work very well anyway). Golfworks sells an expensive solvent pump gun that uses a round-tipped inflator-type needle like this.

 

I have the Star Grips air installation nozzle (appears to be about the same thing that Arnie's Clubs sells). This makes for very easy installation of grips with no double stick tape and trivially easy non-destructive removal at any time in the future.

 

But I haven't had much luck with removing grips that were installed with traditional tape underneath. I've found that with most clubs, the airgun will unseat the upper half of the grip, but the tightness of the seal in the lower half of the grip is more than the airgun can overcome. The results I've had are about the same whether or not you shoot solvent in the endcap. Without a plastic tube around the grip (the "protector" in the Arnie's Clubs description), a regular Tour Velvet will blow up to 3-4" in diameter. I bought a length of heavy sidewall vinyl tubing to act as a protector, but basically have the same results.

 

I think the only way you're going to get the grip off is by injecting some solvent into the grip from the club end. You really need to get up about 4" for that to have any significant effect though. The Golfsmith grip removal tool would do the trick, and I've been looking without luck for a long inflator needle.

 

Having played around for a while now with the air installer and many kinds of grips, I think it's a pretty good system. As far as I can tell, the only purpose that the double stick tape serves is that the adhesive becomes the lubricant for the grip going on. I don't think it's stickiness matters at all after the grip is on, as the friction between the grip and shaft is more than enough to hold it in perfect alignment (if you don't think that is true, try pulling a grip on the shaft dry!). With air-installed tapeless grips, you can pop 'em on, pop 'em back off in an instant, as well as resposition them as finely and obsessively as you see fit.

 

I originally purchased the air gun because I was interested in being able to shorten a putter without having to buy replacement (often expensive) OEM grips. Without better ability to shoot in solvent, this basically hasn't worked for me at all, but I'm still hopeful.

 

I haven't had any problems with installing any grips using air. Cords are a little harder to do with no lubricant. I had a nice discussion with the guys at Star Grip about the tool before I bought it, and they suggested that you'll have better luck with a seamless rubber grip (like a Tour Velvet) vs. something like a Winn grip which has a full-length seam. This is because the expansion of a seamed grip may not be as even as a molded grip. I haven't experienced problems with either ones.

 

With the exception of those fancy putter grips that will cost $10-70 to replace (damn you, Scotty Cameron!), being able to non-destructively remove grips is not that big of a deal. At $2-7 per regular grip, you'll have to change a lot of grips to pay for a $60 solvent gun or $20 removal tool. I have large hands, so it's been useful to me to be able to blow off a grip, apply some build-up tape, blow the same grip back on then try it immediately. Without this capability, I would never try things like more wraps under different parts of the grip.

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The easiest way is to use a solvent can with a needle on it. The best ones I see are big metal cans where the solvent goes with a big hand pump/trigger that has a needle on the end.

 

To use:

1. Insert needle through grip anywhere on the grip.

2. Pump solvent under the grip.

3. Repeat on different parts of the grip until the grip slides off!

 

Much easier than using compressed air. ;)

 

 

I know of at least 3 very prominent clubmakers (not hacks...guys at the top of the profession) that have accidentally stabbed AND injected solvent into their hands. I do not, and will never, have a solvent and needle in my shop.

 

When you are working fast, as professionals must, these things can happen. The method outlined by Arnie is much safer and once set up, very simple and easy.

 

I have used this tool about 300 times to remove grips. i wouldn't try to rush the 10 second insertion of the needle into the butt end of the grip and trim it down to 4 seconds :)

 

The tool described above is the quickest with the only downside that the grip that is removed needs to dry for quite a while before being put on another shaft due to how the solvent doesn't want to dissolve to the point of adhesion with the adhesive underneath it.

 

The above scenario is likened by me to turning up the torch full blast to shave a few seconds off of a pull of an altus out of a ft-3. If you are that rushed you need to allocate more time or hire some newb for $10 an hour to do your re-grips.

 

You might be more coordinated than many clubmakers :drinks:

 

That being said, I've done at least 600 removals with the compressor and never once was injury to myself an issue. I just got in from doing one of those GP long putter grips...blew it off in a few minutes and reinstalled to another club with zero drying time required.

 

There's always more than one way to skin a cat and I choose the safer route. Incidentally, in this case, it's also the faster route.

 

Your analogy is also off base. Pulling a $1000 shaft is a world away from trying to save a $2 used grip. Why anyone would risk ANY kind of injury whether they are careless or not to save a $2 grip is strictly up to them. If they feel safer alternatives are overkill or unnecessary, by all means proceed on your way but do not villify alternative methods.

 

Send Jeff Jackson an email. He will tell you all about his experience.

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I'm not sure how it works in the states, but here in the UK i am doing my PGA training and these solvent guns with the needles attached are not allowed no more. If you are caught using them by the PGA you get in serious trouble.

 

Mainly because like already said its too easy to accidently inject the solvent into you.

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Gentlemen,

 

As Dyno mentioned, I can personally attest to the danger of the metal can/needle method of grip removal. I had a slip on just one occassion...the needle went in to my hand...the solvent followed. The ER doctor told me the only other time he saw such tissue damage was from napalm burns when he was in VietNam. I was in the hospital for 2 weeks with the possibility of losing the hand...

 

All is well now, but the only way I'll try to save a grip is with an air compressor - but I'll do whatever I can to suggest a new grip in the first place!

 

Regards,

 

Jeff Jackson

Tour Golf

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  • 3 years later...

I am trying to do the exact same thing and i found this website. The [b]"Slip Slide Them Away"[/b] technique is very similar to rgjusa's and is probably the best. If you read the comments down the bottom it says that the needle and solvent method is very dangerous and should not be used.

[url="http://thesandtrap.com/bag_drop/how_to_remove_and_save_grips"]The website[/url]

[b] [url="../../user/8553-rgjusa/"]
[/url][/b]

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Wow. 4 year old thread.

I still don't get how you inject yourself. I insert the needle first and THEN inject solvent. Most sane, rational people aren't going to squeeze the trigger after feeling a sharp pain from a puncture wound.

I've had my injector for over 10 years. Still the best way for me to remove grips, especially when trying to remove and preserve leather putter underlistings.

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[quote name='rgjusa' date='23 July 2006 - 11:15 AM' timestamp='1153671349' post='244200']
This is my technique (which I posted on another forum):

Tools: paint tray, white spirit/naptha/grip removal solvent (in a ketchup squirty bottle thing like in cafes) and this: [url="http://www.golfsmith.com/browse.php?lcode=...all&Ntk=All"]http://www.golfsmith...=...all&Ntk=All[/url]

1) stand butt end in paint tray
2) roll back the grip mouth and squirt in a small amount of spirit
3) dip rod into spirit bottle to get the rod nice and wet
4) insert rod under grip and work around 360*, to a depth of halfway down the grip
5) leaving the rod in I squirt some more white spirit in and push the rod all the way down, then around 360*
6) pull the grip off, usually it slides off nice and easy
7) remove tape off of shaft while it is wet (works best), if not, then use a heat gun to crisp it and using asbestos fingers, pull it off the shaft and do a dance as it sticks to your fingers while hot

Heating the grip up somewhat before you start the removal process seems to help, especially with corded grips which I find will split more than regular rubber grips. There is also some tape/glue/something-I-don't-know-what that sticks like crazy to some grips/clubs and that needs a bit more brute force. I also have a grip vice which does make it easier if the grip does not pull off easy but it is not essential. I have heard of people using coathangers, but I was always taught to use the correct tool (or close to) for the job so have never bothered trying.

Wait until someone explains how easy it is with compressed air and you may not even bother with this...
[/quote]
+1 on the golfsmith tool..... has saved me a boatload of money this year


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There's the quick and easy way which involves a compressor and solvent in the shaft.

Then there's the easy way, which is not also quick. Put solvent in the shaft through the grip hole. Plug the hole in the grip-I've used a "nail set". Stand the club up with the grip down. Leave it sitting overnight. Tomorrow, twist the grip with your hand and it should come right off. Some experimenting with the right amount of solvent is required. I first did this with a Scotty grip, but then i started adding bursts of air to do it much quicker.

This doesn't require needles, just some method to get the solvent into the shaft, not injected through the grip. I use an epoxy syringe. [url="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2096"]http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2096[/url] which doesn't use needles.

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  • 1 year later...

Where can I get one of these syringes without people looking at me like I am a junky of some sort? I would really like to try this method, especially for the Winn grips that seem so ungodly to get off.

Anyone?

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[quote name='Joe85' timestamp='1333216944' post='4619615']
Where can I get one of these syringes without people looking at me like I am a junky of some sort? I would really like to try this method, especially for the Winn grips that seem so ungodly to get off.

Anyone?
[/quote]

I have bought syringes at Peavy Mart (agriculture supply store) designed for ranchers to inject antibiotics in cattle. Works OK but no better than using a rod like the Golfsmith tool. I use a cut down rod that was made from a tool designed to push corks down a steel shaft when swingweighting with lead powder.

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  • 2 years later...

This is a pretty old thread but something I have learned just recently and thought I would share. If you're using the needle approach to remove grips, heat the grip up first with a hair dryer and then remove the grip. I found this makes it 10 times easier. Also, to easily remove the tape, also heat the tape up. Tape comes right off.

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[quote name='stage1350' timestamp='1279385505' post='2581760']
Wow. 4 year old thread.

I still don't get how you inject yourself. I insert the needle first and THEN inject solvent. Most sane, rational people aren't going to squeeze the trigger after feeling a sharp pain from a puncture wound.

I've had my injector for over 10 years. Still the best way for me to remove grips, especially when trying to remove and preserve leather putter underlistings.
[/quote]

yea, i'm sorry. but if you somehow inject your hand with mineral spirits via this method - well maybe you shouldn't be doing re-gripping in the first place.

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Buy new grips..

As someone who makes their living building clubs, my hands and well being are worth way more than any customers $6 grip. Anybody who thinks that their grip is that valuable clearly wont find my services valuable to them.

On my own clubs I'm using leather BEST Grips now and even though they are expensive I would never even consider trying to use a needle. I sometimes use the rod method when removing BRAND NEW Cameron putter grips but all in all I always say a new grip is a better option.

Plus any grip that has been removed never quite feels that same when re-installed....

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I took a pice of PVC pipe, glued an end cap on it, Cut it so it was about 2-3 inches over the top of the grip. Fill it up with solvent. made a stand so it stand straight up. Put club in so solvent covers grip. Work the golfworks tool in until you get it loose. Nice and neat.

Done for year selling it all.

 

 

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