Swing weight factors in relation to parts

[Denz]

Hi Guys,

I'm from South Africa and I have tried to get the swingweights etc checked on my clubs, but the guys here(well not that ive found)aren't really experienced or knowledgable enough to help me.

I really wish we had guys like Mr Joey over here! Perhaps we do but i just don't know about them and they are probably crazy expensive if they are here!

Well, getting to the problem: I have a set of MIZUNO MP-62's, I changed the standard S-300's out for SL-300s just for Lighter feeling clubs but now the whole balance of the club feels bottom heavy" well at least to me! The head feels way too heavy while holding the club.

My questions are:

1) how do I adjust the swingweight/balance to suit me better or feel lighter in the head and overall lighter as that's what I wanted when going to the SLs?

2) where can I find out how to measure swingweight and is there a way to do this by myself?

Any input will be highly appreciated!

Thanks guys

[pingeyeone]

ok maybe someone's mentioned this but I have not found it, so here goes. If you are wanting to add tip weight, what effects does it have on shaft flex? and is adding weight in the hosel the same as the add as far as swing weight would be considered? thanks

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='Denz' timestamp='1370460576' post='7175982']
Hi Guys,

I'm from South Africa and I have tried to get the swingweights etc checked on my clubs, but the guys here(well not that ive found)aren't really experienced or knowledgable enough to help me.

I really wish we had guys like Mr Joey over here! Perhaps we do but i just don't know about them and they are probably crazy expensive if they are here!

Well, getting to the problem: I have a set of MIZUNO MP-62's, I changed the standard S-300's out for SL-300s just for Lighter feeling clubs but now the whole balance of the club feels bottom heavy" well at least to me! The head feels way too heavy while holding the club.

My questions are:

1) how do I adjust the swingweight/balance to suit me better or feel lighter in the head and overall lighter as that's what I wanted when going to the SLs?

2) where can I find out how to measure swingweight and is there a way to do this by myself?

Any input will be highly appreciated!

Thanks guys
[/quote]

I sorry for that you did not get a reply to this post.
- Yes you can do SW without a SW scale by using a online calc who is good at this address.
[url="http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM"]http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM[/url]

Here is how you do it.
- Measure the total weight of the club
- Balance the club on 1 finger, and put a piece of masking tape on the shaft at this spot.
- Balance again, this time on the edge of a knife (not to sharp), and when the club is in balance, push it against the knife to make a mark on that balance point.
- Measure length from the butt end of the grip, down to the balance mark.

Go on the web page i gave you, and input, Total weight, and Distance to balance point, and the calk reply with SW value.

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='pingeyeone' timestamp='1370463050' post='7176268']
ok maybe someone's mentioned this but I have not found it, so here goes. If you are wanting to add tip weight, what effects does it have on shaft flex? and is adding weight in the hosel the same as the add as far as swing weight would be considered? thanks
[/quote]

SW value vs CPM strength is 1:1, so if we add 1 SW point, flex go weaker by 1 CPM
- We count 10 CPM from 1 flex to another in the L.A.R.S.X system, so going from D2 up to D5 is equal to Soft stepping 1x in flex matters. If we took it to the extreme and went from D2 to E2 in irons, X flex drops to S flex.

SW vs grams vary due to club length, (see a post further back here), so dont mix weight with SW, and the point is, its the influence in SW points who changes flex, so it might take 2 grams down on the sole, or 2.3 grams up in the hosel to move SW by 1 point.

On a driver 1 SW point is down at about 1.6-1.7 grams
On irons about 2 grams
On Wedges above 2.3 grams

[pingeyeone]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1371688195' post='7286060']
[quote name='pingeyeone' timestamp='1370463050' post='7176268']
ok maybe someone's mentioned this but I have not found it, so here goes. If you are wanting to add tip weight, what effects does it have on shaft flex? and is adding weight in the hosel the same as the add as far as swing weight would be considered? thanks
[/quote]

SW value vs CPM strength is 1:1, so if we add 1 SW point, flex go weaker by 1 CPM
- We count 10 CPM from 1 flex to another in the L.A.R.S.X system, so going from D2 up to D5 is equal to Soft stepping 1x in flex matters. If we took it to the extreme and went from D2 to E2 in irons, X flex drops to S flex.

SW vs grams vary due to club length, (see a post further back here), so dont mix weight with SW, and the point is, its the influence in SW points who changes flex, so it might take 2 grams down on the sole, or 2.3 grams up in the hosel to move SW by 1 point.

On a driver 1 SW point is down at about 1.6-1.7 grams
On irons about 2 grams
On Wedges above 2.3 grams
[/quote]



let me ask you this is there a standard weight all shaft flexes are measure by say d1 for drives or something like that? I mean say the shaft is rated xstiff but if you have a heavy had and after assembly it comes in at e3 would the shaft now be a stiff instead of an xstiff? does adding butt end weight really make the club play stiffer, it seems like head weight would matter most? thanks as you can tell I am new to club making but I love learning and playing. All my recent clubs builds seem to be heavy


hogans apex with dgx100 all came out e1 swing weight

ping karsten I with prelaunch red 3-D3 and get heavier all the way to pw at E2 don't know why hogans came out all the same and pings but know to tip or butt weight to make them equal if I want

just built a house of forged driver with project x black 6.5 and it came out D-9 swingweight, I added 10 gram tip weight to try

callaway razr fit with new ahina shaft is crazy different from my stock project x black 6.0 , ahina E-7 stock project x black D-7 only 7 grams difference on shaft weight anyone know why 2 shafts so different in swing weight?

thanks!

[Howard_Jones]

There is No industry standard for flex
- The FCM System is RIFLE, and Rifle uses D3 as standard SW

Counter weighting does nothing to Flex

2 shafts at the same weight might influence differently to the clubs SW value because of that shafts balance point - (tip or butt heavy). The other way, 2 shafts with different weight can make the same SW value, ex DG and DGSL. The SL version as about 20 grams lighter than the standard DG, but the SL is made "Tip heavy" to equalize for the drop in SW, so they are equal on the SW scale.

[ladahl]

Hi guys, if I am reshafting and want to check SW as I go, is ok to simply tape a 50 gram weight to the handle to compensate for the eventual grip? I'd rather not install the grips until all the epoxy dries, etc.

[joey3108]

[quote name='ladahl' timestamp='1372008060' post='7307248']
Hi guys, if I am reshafting and want to check SW as I go, is ok to simply tape a 50 gram weight to the handle to compensate for the eventual grip? I'd rather not install the grips until all the epoxy dries, etc.
[/quote]
Why not using an old cut out grip?

Joe

[hckymeyer]

[quote name='ladahl' timestamp='1372008060' post='7307248']
Hi guys, if I am reshafting and want to check SW as I go, is ok to simply tape a 50 gram weight to the handle to compensate for the eventual grip? I'd rather not install the grips until all the epoxy dries, etc.
[/quote]

Like Joe mentioned an older cut off grip will work if it's the same one that you are installing.

For me I dry fit everything together and put on my build up tape on the butt end. Then just use a small piece of masking tape and tape the grip to the butt end of the shaft and measure the swing weight. Not sure if this is an official club fitter approved method, but it seems to work for me.

[jayjm]

Ok, after weeks of testing, I finally know what I want AP2 714's, 3-PW standard lie/loft 1/2' over, KBS Tour Stiff. Wouldn't you know, tough clubs (TO THAT SPEC) to find in great preowned condition and just way to expensive due to limited discounts for new Titleist. But here goes. I want my clubs to be D1/D2. I am prepared to buy a set with the wrong shaft in them and just reshaft with what I want. I am hearing KBS tour shaft of equal length to an s300 will still bring the swing weight down so first lets assume no matter what I buy, they came from the factory D2. Based on that, should I buy a set with lets say s300 at normal length so assuming KBS's lower SW, the added 1/2" (3 Swt's) will get me close or should I buy a set that came factory +1/2 S300 and again, assuming KBS does lower, go to 3/4 to get back to D2. Yes I know just find a set KBS Tours +1/2. lol. Tougher than you think. lol.

My point is I can find VG-Excellent AP2's for about 5-6, plus $200 or less for new KBS tour shafts, and reshaft myself. So I'm $7-8 all in versus $1100-$1200

Any guidance is appreciated

[joey3108]

What about the existing tip weight ? You need to expect that.

No need to worry to much. Most of us don't have the luxury to hand pick head weight for your specs.

Standard titleist are mostly D2 with DGS300, assuming they are accurate (good luck on that ). KBS Tour mostly lighter by 2 sw...adding 1/2" w/ KB will get you D3-4 assuming no existing tip weight ...now you just have to pray that there are tip weight adjustment on every one of them or enough room to drill the hosel to reduce the weight and what about grip weight calculation? How about lie adjustment?

Simple, but not that simple isn't it? Especially if you want to get them accurately within 1/2 sw.

Investing in cheap swing weight scale isn't that much for a hobby DIY....I still don't get it why people still trying to do it without it. Doesn't matter how good the chart is....you still need accurate measurement to cut the shaft to get it right. Even that still won't be accurate in the final specs. A cheap sw scale less than $100...a used one can be half of that if you can find it.

Just my opinions!

Joe

[TheMerryTex]

If I have a driver with a 62 gram shaft and it plays longer than what I want, could I get a 72 gram shaft and cut it down an inch to SW it similar to the standard length with a 62 gram shaft? I just don't want to use lead tape!

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='AChapa8807' timestamp='1378696613' post='7818003']
If I have a driver with a 62 gram shaft and it plays longer than what I want, could I get a 72 gram shaft and cut it down an inch to SW it similar to the standard length with a 62 gram shaft? I just don't want to use lead tape!
[/quote]

Its not that simple

Going shorter is going down in SW value by 6 points for each inch
- The old rule of thumb : 9 grams shaft weight = 1 SW point was for Dynamic Gold, but if it was valid here, you would need 6 SW point x 9 grams = plus 54 grams on shaft weight to equalize SW value, going 1 inch shorter. Not useful at all.

You will have to find a way to reset SW, or play it as it is, there is no short cuts, and lead tape is not really a option when we are up in the need for 10 grams extra head weight to reset SW.

Pulling the shaft, and adding a 9 gram tungsten tip weight (Tom Wishon got them for Graphite), is the easy way for the DIY man, while Hot melt is whats used by folks like Joe Kwok and shops like mine.

[Jim Schortz]

Very first post.

First, many thanks to all the experts on this forum who are taking the time to help the rest of us.

I am reshafting my irons. They are Hogan Apex Edge Pro. I love these irons, but the shafts aren't right for my swing. I had a fitting recently with an excellent club fitter.
The recommendation was:
- Nipon NS Pro Modus3 Tour 120 Stiff. (lighter and more flexible than the Rifle Flighted 6.0 that are in the irons now)
- 3/4 inch longer than standard (6I @ 38.0")

I have the full set of shafts and started by reshafting the 3 and 5 irons.
Dry fitting, they came out at D6. On the 3I I drilled out some weight from the hosel (< 1 gram) and added ~5 g of lead tape under the grip. That got the SW to D4.
The 5I is still in processs.

How can I get these clubs to D2?
- Do I need to add another 5-10 g to the grip end? (seems counter-productive since I just spent real $ on lighter shafts).
- Do I need to drill out more weight from the hosel (I'm a bit nervous about drilling too far!)
- Do the SWs really need to match, or is there another way to match the set?
- is D5 or D6 really a problem? It seems like it could be a red herring; these shafts are lighter so does the SW really have to be ~D2?

Any help/guidance would be much appreciated!

[Howard_Jones]

You dont change SW value by adding weight grip side, you only trick the scale, and raise total weight
- Head weight must be taken down, and hosel drilling is 1 way to do it.
Use a drill bit smaller than shaft size, but watch out for max dept and check if the hosel is strait all the way down.

But...you dont seems to know what SW value that really fits you, so before you mess up, try a club as it became, no matter SW value. You might find yourself very comfortable with a SW value way higher than what you thought was right.
There is always a SW question pupping up when changing shaft length, but in many cases there is nothing to worry about.

[jonkevin]

Just some background --
I started playing golf about 10 years ago and was playing often for about 3 years (shooting low 90s and occasionally in the 80s) but then stopped playing for about 5 years. I picked up the game again about a year ago (bought the MX300s) and am now back to shooting high 80s low 90s.

I purchased a preowned set of JPX 825 pros with KBS Tour S that were 1/2" over standard and 3* upright. When I got them, I had them cut back down to standard length and standard lie. So after my first trip to the range, the irons felt a lot lighter than my MX300 with Dynalite Gold S300 and I couldn't hit the ball straight and I noticed they weren't going as far as my MX300s. (7 iron was 150-155 yd when i was hitting 7 iron 160-165 with MX300s) I also noticed that I wasn't hitting the sweet spot as consistently as I did w/ my MX300s.

Is this all because Mizuno used the "B" heads since they were ordered 1/2" over and when I cut them down 1/2", the swing weight is down 3 points?

Should I get tip weights installed in them to get the swing weight back up?

Should I just not tinker with it and work with this set up to see if my swing gets accustomed to the specs?

[joey3108]

[quote name='jonkevin' timestamp='1380291138' post='7919041']
Just some background --
I started playing golf about 10 years ago and was playing often for about 3 years (shooting low 90s and occasionally in the 80s) but then stopped playing for about 5 years. I picked up the game again about a year ago (bought the MX300s) and am now back to shooting high 80s low 90s.

I purchased a preowned set of JPX 825 pros with KBS Tour S that were 1/2" over standard and 3* upright. When I got them, I had them cut back down to standard length and standard lie. So after my first trip to the range, the irons felt a lot lighter than my MX300 with Dynalite Gold S300 and I couldn't hit the ball straight and I noticed they weren't going as far as my MX300s. (7 iron was 150-155 yd when i was hitting 7 iron 160-165 with MX300s) I also noticed that I wasn't hitting the sweet spot as consistently as I did w/ my MX300s.

Is this all because Mizuno used the "B" heads since they were ordered 1/2" over and when I cut them down 1/2", the swing weight is down 3 points?

Should I get tip weights installed in them to get the swing weight back up?

Should I just not tinker with it and work with this set up to see if my swing gets accustomed to the specs?
[/quote] It could be anything...B head, KB shaft and 3* up right combo will be your worst scenario. Tip weight or order the right head weight depends on what you are trying to achieve.

Your info is too little!
Joe

[sweetswing22]

Hey Joe great stuff here. Here's my situation. I want to switch out my 85gr steel stiff shafts. And replace them with steel fiber I70 reg. shafts.
I think they are 72 grams. I will be keeping the same length grips and lie. Taking into consideration that 9grams lighter will lower the swing weight 1 point and this will be 13 grams lighter this will change the swing weight lighter by about 1.5 grams?
So I will need to add some weight to the head? Is there any thing else I need to consider?
Thanks Joe.

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='sweetswing22' timestamp='1383833107' post='8114594']
Hey Joe great stuff here. Here's my situation. I want to switch out my 85gr steel stiff shafts. And replace them with steel fiber I70 reg. shafts.
I think they are 72 grams. I will be keeping the same length grips and lie. Taking into consideration that 9grams lighter will lower the swing weight 1 point and this will be 13 grams lighter this will change the swing weight lighter by about 1.5 grams?
So I will need to add some weight to the head? Is there any thing else I need to consider?
Thanks Joe.
[/quote]

The relative locations of the C.G. for the shafts in question (and not just the weight difference). Steelfibers (at least the 95's and 110's) are notoriously butt heavy so may require more tip weights than just the static weight difference might imply.

[sweetswing22]

HI Joe Thanks for answering my last question. It will be very helpful.
One more question. If you have two of the same shaft, but one is .355 taper tip and the other a .370 tip.
Are they going to perform the same? I ask because I have always used .355 taper tip shafts.
I'm considering using brass shims to put a .355 into a .370 hosel.
Will this change anything?
You are the best,
Thanks,
Mark

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='sweetswing22' timestamp='1383886622' post='8118120']
HI Joe Thanks for answering my last question. It will be very helpful.
One more question. If you have two of the same shaft, but one is .355 taper tip and the other a .370 tip.
Are they going to perform the same? I ask because I have always used .355 taper tip shafts.
I'm considering using brass shims to put a .355 into a .370 hosel.
Will this change anything?
You are the best,
Thanks,
Mark
[/quote]

Your question is quite a bit outside this topic SWING WEIGHT...but, the short answer is NO, they want perform as the same, but
dont misuse the pined topic for SW questions for general questions like shaft performance, ask in the other part of the forum.

[cidjenkins]

Sorry if this has been gone over already. These ideas are all very new to me. I'm trying to understand but maybe somebody could give me a little advice? I've been playing a 9.5 Supertri with the 16g weight in the heal for awhile. I guy I play with regularly, who has more knowledge about these things than I do suggested I buy a shaft he found for me on eBay. It's a stiff 44" Taylormade Tp Fujikura Blur 65 with a Golf Pride New Decade grip. In trying to understand some of the information about swingweight out there, I've realized I need to make some weight adjustments to recreate the same feel. My old shaft was the stock 44.5", stiff motore 60 with stock Taylormade velvet grip. Should I be adding head weight? Or subtract? Thank you very much for any input.

[dieselmd]

Scroll down and you'll find a very informative swing weight guide.

http://www.nike.com/content/dam/one-nike/en_us/SP14/golf/Club_FY14_Catalog.pdf

[cidjenkins]

[quote name='dieselmd' timestamp='1390237456' post='8495381']
Scroll down and you'll find a very informative swing weight guide.

[url="http://www.nike.com/content/dam/one-nike/en_us/SP14/golf/Club_FY14_Catalog.pdf"]http://www.nike.com/...Y14_Catalog.pdf[/url]
[/quote]

THANK YOU! So very much! I was really having a hard time, probably making it much harder than it had to be but that's pretty much what I do. I'm going to add 4g and let'er rip!

[dieselmd]

[quote name='cidjenkins' timestamp='1390241218' post='8495669']
[quote name='dieselmd' timestamp='1390237456' post='8495381']
Scroll down and you'll find a very informative swing weight guide.

[url="http://www.nike.com/content/dam/one-nike/en_us/SP14/golf/Club_FY14_Catalog.pdf"]http://www.nike.com/...Y14_Catalog.pdf[/url]
[/quote]

THANK YOU! So very much! I was really having a hard time, probably making it much harder than it had to be but that's pretty much what I do. I'm going to add 4g and let'er rip!
[/quote]

You're welcome. It's a very detailed chart but makes it simple for the technically challenged like myself.

[hogan1]

Thanks for starting this thread. I apologize in advance if this has been covered already and I hope someone could help me out….

I've just ordered a set of the new Taylormade Tour Preferred irons. Shaft options here in Sweden were not to my liking so I have ordered a set of 85 gram Aerotech Steelfibers, which are to replace the 110 gram KBS stock shafts.
This will lower the swing weight of course and if understood correctly a 25 gram lighter shaft will result in 2.77 gram lower sw - resulting in a sw drop from D2 to C9+ ?
If I add either a 2 gram or a 4 gram brass tip weight to the shaft, will the sw then become abt. D1 or D3 respectively? Essentially, does it matter where the weight is added e.g. tip of shaft or back of club head?

(Stock grip is 51 g and the grips I intend to use are 52 g).

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='hogan1' timestamp='1390608244' post='8526357']
Thanks for starting this thread. I apologize in advance if this has been covered already and I hope someone could help me out….

I've just ordered a set of the new Taylormade Tour Preferred irons. Shaft options here in Sweden were not to my liking so I have ordered a set of 85 gram Aerotech Steelfibers, which are to replace the 110 gram KBS stock shafts.
This will lower the swing weight of course and if understood correctly a 25 gram lighter shaft will result in 2.77 gram lower sw - resulting in a sw drop from D2 to C9+ ?
If I add either a 2 gram or a 4 gram brass tip weight to the shaft, will the sw then become abt. D1 or D3 respectively? Essentially, does it matter where the weight is added e.g. tip of shaft or back of club head?

(Stock grip is 51 g and the grips I intend to use are 52 g).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
[/quote]

The steelfibers tend to be a bit more butt heavy than other iron shafts of the same weight so will most likely end up even lighter (1-2 pts) than the general "rule of thumbs" posted early in this thread will suggest. You'll really need to check the actual results if you want to get a particular SW

[hogan1]

[quote name='Stuart G.' timestamp='1390643692' post='8528429']
[quote name='hogan1' timestamp='1390608244' post='8526357']
Thanks for starting this thread. I apologize in advance if this has been covered already and I hope someone could help me out….

I've just ordered a set of the new Taylormade Tour Preferred irons. Shaft options here in Sweden were not to my liking so I have ordered a set of 85 gram Aerotech Steelfibers, which are to replace the 110 gram KBS stock shafts.
This will lower the swing weight of course and if understood correctly a 25 gram lighter shaft will result in 2.77 gram lower sw - resulting in a sw drop from D2 to C9+ ?
If I add either a 2 gram or a 4 gram brass tip weight to the shaft, will the sw then become abt. D1 or D3 respectively? Essentially, does it matter where the weight is added e.g. tip of shaft or back of club head?

(Stock grip is 51 g and the grips I intend to use are 52 g).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
[/quote]

The steelfibers tend to be a bit more butt heavy than other iron shafts of the same weight so will most likely end up even lighter (1-2 pts) than the general "rule of thumbs" posted early in this thread will suggest. You'll really need to check the actual results if you want to get a particular SW
[/quote]

Thanks, will of course do. I'm ordering tip weights so I thought I'd better ask so I get the right weights.

[FAIRWAYFOUND!]

I can't seem to find this. Can someone tell me how much each strip of grip tape usually weighs? Thanks in advance.

[malelee21]

Does amount of Epoxy used in reshafting club have any noticeable impact on SW?