Pinned? Best modern balls for vintage clubs

[Fellaheen51]

I hit cheap balls into the woods. Find expensive balls. Become a playa.

All kidding aside, great job on your ball review thread Scooter. Hadn't seen it before until it was resurrected and pinned. I'm of the same opinion as you regarding Pro V1, don't get the hype. Give me a B330 RX all day. Wonderful ball, bought a doz this summer before a week long golf vacation. Distance, control, spin was superb. Just have a hard time spending +$40 on golf balls, when I can get 90% of the performance (e6) for half the price. Nowadays, with this classic club thingy going on, buying a doz that are 3x the cost of the clubs I'm using to hit them with doesn't compute.

Been playing Wilson 50 Elites as a fall ball with vintage. OK, but nothing special, really sacrifice distance compared to others. I trade-off I'm not fond of these days. Would rather play Nike Power Soft for a inexpensive ball.

When the used golf ball bins were at the thrifts, would rummage thru looking for "interesting" balls. Some old Titleist wounds, Maxfli's, etc., good shape and could be had 5 for a buck. I'm not that good to be overly fussy.

That said, will be stopping at a local sporting goods emporium latter today to check the end of season sales. Based on the rave reviews, might go with the FG Tours with the Duos as the fall back. Buying golf balls today, snow in the forecast for Fri., smart.

[dbuck47]

I plan to try the FG Tour soon, strictly on Scooter's recommendation. I don't often use a $30 ball because 330RX and RXS are available locally at WM for $36, so I usually skip the $30 segment if I want something more than the $20 DT SoLo, Duo or Callaway Supersoft. Scooter advises that the FG Tours are close in feel to the old Maxfli HT and Titleist Professional, and that would be worth $30 to me.

Kirasdad had mentioned the Callaway Supersoft earilier and so I gave them a try. I agree they are a tad longer, and in fact combining them with "Big Herb" (a graphite shafted persimmon) I am getting the ball close to some positions I could previously only reach with coffee cans on a stick. For instance the 9th hole on my usual course is a short but extremely uphill par four, dogleg right. At the corner of the dogleg is a fairway bunker and to the right of the bunker, a tree. The good line for me is right over the top of that tree, and with Big Herb and the Supersoft, I can usually do it. KD is a better ball striker than me, but I do get a couple or 4 more yards, which can make a difference on some shots.

In softest to hardest, feels like Duo-SoLo-Supersoft. In distance, the Duo is about the same as the DT Solo, and the Supersoft slightly longer for me. Honestly, I haven't hit the Solo and Duo much with Big Herb, so I want to do that some. Of the 3, today I have a very slight preference for the Supersoft, mainly due to the extra distance. I am not trying to get 260 out of my driver, but being able to clear that bunker and get to a couple of other places, a couple of yards make a difference, like a 229 carry vs 226.

[HoldenCornfield]

I mentioned this the other week to a fellow vintage golfer, and thought I'd post it here to see what kind of feedback I'd get:

***

I had a thought the other day -- is it possible that the combination of classic wood woods with a modern soft distance ball is the perfect marriage? Consider this:

- vintage gear effect brings mishits back to the fairway
- the low spin from the modern two piece ball keeps hooks and slices to a playable minimum and...
- combined with the higher COG of persimmon flattens trajectory and maximizes rollout
- lack of trampoline effect may actually be a good thing -- is that possible? Since most of us don't consistently hit the ball straight enough to take advantage of the extra distance?
- heavy steel shaft improves tempo and balance, helps you find the slot and stay within yourself instead of over-accelerating with the long, light, upright modern driver
- low compression ball enhances feel of solid wood head for greater sensory feedback

Or maybe I'm crazy. But what I do know is that all of my rounds are against guys that are basically the same skill level as myself. But whereas I'm regularly hitting 10-11 fairways/round (and finding the misses playable) these guys are launching wild missiles all over the place, hitting maybe half of the fairways with their metal melons and accumulating a lot of penalty strokes. And that's the way I used to play, too, when employing modern drivers.

Some days when I'm a little tight I'll get out-driven by 20-50 yards. But other days when my joints are all oiled up and my tempo is smooth and tension free, my best shots are within 10 yards of theirs.

***

I started out playing vintage with a premium tour ball, but since switching this spring to the soft distance, low spin, two piece balls I've seen a noticeable increase in both distance and accuracy. It's impossible to parse it all out to just the ball, but it does seem to be a great combination with the persimmon woods, in my opinion.

[ScooterMcTavish]

[quote name='HoldenCornfield' timestamp='1414602190' post='10368583']
I mentioned this the other week to a fellow vintage golfer, and thought I'd post it here to see what kind of feedback I'd get:

***

I had a thought the other day -- is it possible that the combination of classic wood woods with a modern soft distance ball is the perfect marriage? Consider this:

- vintage gear effect brings mishits back to the fairway
- the low spin from the modern two piece ball keeps hooks and slices to a playable minimum and...
- combined with the higher COG of persimmon flattens trajectory and maximizes rollout
- lack of trampoline effect may actually be a good thing -- is that possible? Since most of us don't consistently hit the ball straight enough to take advantage of the extra distance?
- heavy steel shaft improves tempo and balance, helps you find the slot and stay within yourself instead of over-accelerating with the long, light, upright modern driver
- low compression ball enhances feel of solid wood head for greater sensory feedback

Or maybe I'm crazy. But what I do know is that all of my rounds are against guys that are basically the same skill level as myself. But whereas I'm regularly hitting 10-11 fairways/round (and finding the misses playable) these guys are launching wild missiles all over the place, hitting maybe half of the fairways with their metal melons and accumulating a lot of penalty strokes. And that's the way I used to play, too, when employing modern drivers.

Some days when I'm a little tight I'll get out-driven by 20-50 yards. But other days when my joints are all oiled up and my tempo is smooth and tension free, my best shots are within 10 yards of theirs.

***

I started out playing vintage with a premium tour ball, but since switching this spring to the soft distance, low spin, two piece balls I've seen a noticeable increase in both distance and accuracy. It's impossible to parse it all out to just the ball, but it does seem to be a great combination with the persimmon woods, in my opinion.
[/quote]

Hey HC,

Good theory, but my opinion is no. One day I will go to a LM and quantify it though.

From a control perspective, there are two factors that go against the modern driver - shaft length, and forgiveness. With the longer shafts, head control becomes an issue. With forgiveness, mishits on the face go far. Far into the trees, water, other fairway, et al. A mishit with a persimmon goes nowhere. And I do think gear effect is somewhat overrated, as I can hit a great slice with wood too - it just doesn't go as far.

From a distance perspective, a well-hit persimmon should be within 10-20 yards from a modern driver. With a shorter shaft and slower club head speed, it is physics-based impossible for a well-struck persimmon to go farther than a well-struck modern driver except in certain exceptional course conditions. If our partners swung their moderns with the same precision we swing our lumber, we'd be much farther behind the majority of the time. Good for us they often don't.

Will pop back in a bit to discuss spin.....

[ScooterMcTavish]

So spin.....

The solid block of persimmon also imparts less backspin on the ball, meaning less carry, and in many cases a lower trajectory. So this can be to a player's advantage when hitting into a headwind, or when course conditions are firm and dry and the ball rolls forever. In fact, under the right conditions, a well-struck persimmon could go farther than a well struck modern driver based on trajectory and spin.

The main challenge is that wound balata (or even wound surlyn) balls were designed to work with these solid wooden drivers, and allowed the ball to develop adequate spin when solidly struck. If one is playing in soft conditions, or driving on a course where minimum carries are necessary off the tee, using a two-piece with wood may be a less than ideal combo. The ball can't run 75 yards when 150 off the tee is a thicket that you need to carry.

Regardless, a two piece distance ball (soft or not) should develop the usual low spin off a driver - this is what they are designed to so. In the case of a persimmon, the ball will probably develop less than optimal spin. However, this is a good combo, again, for windy or firm conditions, or for someone (who through a swing flaw) imparts way to much backspin on their drives. In other words, it can be the ideal combo, but only for the right player and conditions.

And as much as the manufacturers would like us to believe it, all "brand name" two piece balls (E5 and U2 excluded for obvious reasons) go pretty much the same distance with the same spin, as they are all maxed out for USGA initial velocity. Although compression may affect distance slightly (+/- 5 yards depending on SS), soft balls are more of a "feel" thing than a performance things. I would suggest only when a company makes a softer surlyn cover (i.e. Wilson Staff Duo or 50 Elite) is there a slight increase in spin, and this is noticed most off irons, not woods.

So HC, I like your theory, but would suggest that if one has control issues off the tee, any two piece ball, or even a surlyn 3-piece ball with a mantle might be an improvement for them, regardless of the type of driver they use. And I would also argue that for the majority of golfers, if you want to use a persimmon driver off the tee, the more backspin you generate the better. Part of this would include using the highest spin ball you like the feel of.

Or, if you prefer a 2-piece ball (price or feel reasons), then you're likely robbing yourself of distance by using a driver. Using a two-piece ball, I can outhit my persimmon or laminate drivers with my Hogan persimmon 3W, simply as it gets a better trajectory, and gains added distance from the lift created by backspin off the tee.

[Fellaheen51]

Some observations based on my limited experience:

Distance with the Hogan D persimmon (6 screws, deep face?) is on average 15 yards shorter than with the G25. This assumes the ball is struck correctly and ball and conditions are the same. Nothing technical to substantiate this, just observation.
Mishits go nowhere with persimmon. With the G25, can still realize decent distance on mishits (typically out on the toe).
My slice is not as bad with the persimmon compared to the metal. Length of club, heavier shaft, bulge, slower more deliberate swing may all be contributing factors. Don't know for sure. But it's been noticeable. With the correct swing execution, my natural ball flight is a baby fade. The G25 can exacerbate a swing flaw into a slice quicker than a persimmon imho. Forget draws, they just become bad hooks for me.
The persimmon 5w behaves just like my 23* hybrid (g20) only straighter. With a properly executed swing, it's dead straight with equal distance. Can't say that has been the case with the modern. Ball always seem to have some drift to it.
The 3 FW persimmon is a handful to hit off the deck, distance and accuracy. Much prefer the G20 4w, so much easier use.
Other than using out-of-round balatas or rockflites, I've not been that ball sensitive. Particularly with the modern clubs. I'm just not good enough. A softer ball with the persimmon makes sense for feel and preservation of the head.
The Tour Grind Axials that have been in classic bag are every bit as long as my i20's on a equal loft basis. Perhaps a touch longer because of a lower, more penetrating ball flight. Differences are attributable to the size of the sweet spot and distance on less than optimum hits. Using a softer ball (Wilson Fifty Elite and some older Titleist Wound 90) improves the "feel" of the club at contact. Irons have been the most surprising revelation since beginning to play classic clubs.

Don't know how much of this discourse has to do with balls. Just a guesstimate, thinking that my ball choice (assuming one of reasonable quality) maybe makes about a 5% performance difference out on the course in real time. Came home from my shopping foray yesterday with a doz. Wilson Duos. They were $19 vs. $46 for the FG Tours. Pretty much a no brainer for me. Question is whether I'll get the chance to use them before the season ends.

[Fellaheen51]

"And as much as the manufacturers would like us to believe it, all "brand name" two piece balls (E5 and U2 excluded for obvious reasons) go pretty much the same distance with the same spin, as they are all maxed out for USGA initial velocity. Although compression may affect distance slightly (+/- 5 yards depending on SS), soft balls are more of a "feel" thing than a performance things. I would suggest only when a company makes a softer surlyn cover (i.e. Wilson Staff Duo or 50 Elite) is there a slight increase in spin, and this is noticed most off irons, not woods".

Posting in one step ahead of me Scooter. Quoting this paragraph because it suggests what I've been experiencing. Not being ball sensitive (because they all act pretty much the same) and only a marginal performance improvement (my quote of 5%) attributable to the choice of ball with a similar construct. Choice of ball should be based on the subjective feel, as you stated, rather than a perceived performance improvement.

[ScooterMcTavish]

Hey Fella, you are 100% spot on in terms of ball cost vs. performance. However, even as classic WRXers, we are always looking for that 5%, and the ball is an inexpensive easy way to get it. I think the role of the ball is more psychological. If you have a ball you like the feel of (especially off the putter and irons) you simply have more confidence. As most of us vintage guys are "feel" players, this is super important.

In fact, as I type this, I can recall what hitting a Duo with my woods, irons, and putter feels like. I can also recall this for the old 3-piece Wilson Staff Zip (a great ball I miss - the 2doz for $20 Wal Mart ball is a 50 in Zip clothing), a ProV, a Z-Star, an FG Tour, an e5, etc. When we have a ball that feels like we want it to, and performs consistently, then we can usually capture that extra 5%.

However, the short game is where I think the ball can make a world of difference. Where I live, greens are typically smaller, have lumps and bumps around the edge, and can be parking-lot hard in summer. A two piece ball can cost me more than 5% of strokes around the green if I can't get it to bite, and bump and run is a crapshoot. And as a picker/sweeper, spin is always at a premium for me.

So most importantly, really know your game and what you need your ball to do. For the guy who hits straight drives, but needs greenside bite, a urethane tour ball may be worth it. For a high spin player who could stop a Pinnacle on a parking lot, it may make less a difference. And for someone who hits their $4 ProV into the woods off every tee, then spends 5 minutes looking for it, find a different group for them to play with.

Edit: And wanted to add that if one does need greenside spin, there are always ways to get tour-quality balls cheaper. Buy used, wait for year end clearances, or find better priced alternatives like the e5, Rocketballz Urethane, FG Tour (old model), or Top Flite Gamer Tour. At a comparable price to good two-piece balls, these may be a difference maker, assuming you don't slice them all into the woods.

[Fellaheen51]

Wise advice Scooter. Given the choice between accuracy and spin, I'll always opt on the side of accuracy. Heretofore, with the moderns, I've pretty much settled in with e6's. Performance, feel, price point all seemed to coincide with this choice. As mentioned prior, ponied up for some B330 RX before a trip this year. Really liked them. Unfortunately, now down to just a couple which I'm hoarding.

I've read some of the ball commentary over "there" on the wrx. Thought there was a certain amount of "boohlah" involved. Maybe need to rethink this before next season. Particularity, vis-a-vis playing vintage clubs.

[HoldenCornfield]

[quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1414678356' post='10373345']
[b]So spin.....

The solid block of persimmon also imparts less backspin on the ball, meaning less carry, and in many cases a lower trajectory.[/b]
[size=3][/quote][/size]

[size=3]Isn't this exactly what the OEM's are trying to accomplish now? Less spin for more penetrating trajectory and more rollout? SLDR anyone?[/size]



[size=3][quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1414678356' post='10373345'][/size]

So HC, I like your theory, but would suggest that if one has control issues off the tee, any two piece ball, or even a surlyn 3-piece ball with a mantle might be an improvement for them, regardless of the type of driver they use. And [b]I would also argue that for the majority of golfers, if you want to use a persimmon driver off the tee, the more backspin you generate the better. Part of this would include using the highest spin ball you like the feel of. [/b]
[size=3][/quote][/size]

[size=3]More backspin means more sidespin as well. Which is why balatas were hell to control off the tee for high handicappers.[/size]


[size=3][quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1414678356' post='10373345'][/size]
Or, if you prefer a 2-piece ball (price or feel reasons), then you're likely robbing yourself of distance by using a driver. Using a two-piece ball, I can outhit my persimmon or laminate drivers with my Hogan persimmon 3W, simply as it gets a better trajectory, and gains added distance from the lift created by backspin off the tee.
[/quote]

I think this is more an issue of launch conditions where the number one variable is clubhead speed. So, yes, if you're SS is less than 95 mph or so, you'll find more ideal launch from a 3W.

[Kirasdad]

Balls for Vintage. My 2 Pfennigs.

1Feel. Hard to quantify, player to player. Everyone is different on this one. I think the Solo is a freaking stone, others think it's soft. I do agree with Scooter that if you like the feel, in a subtle sort of undefinable way you play a little more confidently. As was said who doesn't want a little extra edge.
2. Distance. IMHO they're all pretty much the same, [i]within their category. [/i]Meaning a Duo, Supersoft, Lady IQ, etc. are going to average out the same over a dozen or so strikes, same with Prov1 and the other spin balls in their family. When we play 18 screwing around with various brands of balls and hit, say a Supersoft a couple of times, ten yards farther than the others, and then report breathlessly to friends, this forum, and your wife that "this ball is smoking hot off the tee" you're mistaking a good bounce off a hard spot in the fairway, or an extra good strike off the face, for performance. We all like to have something to talk about. I have done this myself on this very forum.

HOWEVER

3. Spin. I am starting to change my mind regarding this one regarding vintage woods, and especially with hickory woods. Vintage woods were designed for a spin ball, a balata to be precise, and I am not sure the Duo et al are the best choice for my persimmon driver. This is extra important to me in hickory where the clubs are heavier, the faces are low launching, and one needs spin to get as much air as possible, especially in Califonia parkland course with pretty lush fairways. I believe I get extra performance with a ProV1 (oh the horror) with my brassie than a Duo, not around the green where Scooter correctly surmises that it helps with the short game, but off the tee, where my brassie at 12 or 13 degrees at say 90 mph needs all the help liftwise it can get. This all depends on the course. If take my hickories to St Andrews in August, I'm digging out a Pinnacle EXTRA BOOM BABY DISTANCE ball and lashing it out there 300 with 100 yards of roll.

[ScooterMcTavish]

Oooh, good discussion today guys. Especially since I won't be able to swing a club in anger for 6 months or so.......

H-C, enjoying your engagement on the subject - love talking tech.

[quote name='HoldenCornfield' timestamp='1414682765' post='10373717']
[size=3]Isn't this exactly what the OEM's are trying to accomplish now? Less spin for more penetrating trajectory and more rollout? SLDR anyone?[/size]

[size=3]More backspin means more sidespin as well. Which is why balatas were hell to control off the tee for high handicappers.[/size]
[size=3][[/quote][/size]

As an average swinger at 95ish with the driver (not by WRX standards, but by the World's), when I was in the throes of chasing strokes, distance was a huge factor for me. Heck, it is for most of us as we get older, and can't turn the shoulders and swing with the force we did as young people. My back can testify to this. But what I'm getting at is the key to maximizing distance with any driver and swing speed is to get the optimal backspin number for your swing speed. So I spent some time in LMs trying out different drivers looking for my ideal backspin number from a variety of different loft, flex, and kick profiles.

From a physics perspective, spin is a combination of forces at the moment of impact: the direction and speed of the club on its X axis, and the direction and speed of the club on it's Y axis, the squareness of the face to the ball, and how much friction the face imparts on the ball. These forces are controlled by the swing of the golfer, and the mechanical ability of the golf club.

The X axis is what generates backspin, easily visualized as a downward blow creating more backspin, and a shallower blow creating less. This can also be added to or subtracted from mechanically, through face loft, which at the moment of impact is affected by shaft flex and how its kickpoint is affected by the swing. In short, if people were fit for the right driver loft for them with the right shaft for their swing type, they could hit "ideal" backspin numbers with any driver to maximize distance.

Where the issue you discuss comes in is in the Y-axis. An in to out swing causes a draw. Out to in causes a fade. An incorrect shaft will cause the face to also be open, imparting incorrect direction and sidespin. Any shot that is not square on the Y axis (or presents the face not square to the Y axis) will impart some sort of side spin. And many of us like having a predictable amount of this, as like Mr. Hogan said, even Jesus couldn't hit a golf ball straight.

I think this is a corner the OEMs have backed themselves into, in that more backspin makes a club straighter, but at the expense of distance (look up "Actual Ping Driver Lofts" - it's like the opposite of loft jacking irons). In fact, as spin is increased on the X axis, it reduces the effect of spin on the Y axis. Good to also look at articles discussing upping your loft for straightness - the increased backspin from upping lofts has been shown to increase accuracy, though it comes with a distance cost. Done the experiment myself too.

Regardless, now the OEMs have to come up with a way to design a driver where they can keep it straight, but dial down the backspin without increasing the sidespin to add distance. This is where MWT and the SLDR come in - lower lofts with less sole weight can reduce backspin for fast swingers, while the SLDR tech allows some weight compensation to keep side spin in check.

But back to your point, more backspin actually reduces the effect of sidespin, and causes a ball to go straighter. So in the case of big slices with balata or urethane balls, this occurs due to a combination of swing flaws and mismatched equipment (loft, shaft, open face, etc.) that cause undesired spin on the Y-axis. The only difference between a 2-piece, urethane, and balata ball is how far into the trees it goes when this is the case.

Will the type of ball affect this? Yes, or course, though modern urethane balls are designed to spin less off a driver as their balata counterparts already due to the addition of the mantle layer. Certainly using a softer cover will allow for more friction at the moment of impact which should increase backspin numbers. Having a softer compression will also allow the ball to deform more to the face of the club imparting more spin. However, if one applies the correct amount of spin on the X-Axis, it will help compensate for forces on the Y-axis. So as much backspin as you can handle without sacrificing too much distance is good for your accuracy.

For us folks in this forum, we're pretty serious golfers, and seem to fight small (not big) things (bad putting day, a bit off on pitching, etc.) and have fairly solid mechanics on the Y axis. Therefore, assuming one does not have an uncontrollable slice or hook, we should all be looking for the most backspin we can get out of a ball when using wooden clubs. As I'm fond of mentioning, the FG Tour is great, as it's soft cover and low compression mean that it is likely the non-balata ball we can get the most backspin on.

[quote name='HoldenCornfield' timestamp='1414682765' post='10373717']
I think this is more an issue of launch conditions where the number one variable is clubhead speed. So, yes, if you're SS is less than 95 mph or so, you'll find more ideal launch from a 3W.
[/quote]

Hey HC, not always, as the clubhead speed is only one variable. Someone with a very steep 85 MPH swing could generate the same backspin numbers as a flat swinger at 105 MPH. Again, that motion on the X-axis combined with loft and friction will determine the final backspin numbers. So again, if backspin keeps the ball straighter and adds lift, then whichever ball aids this would be preferable. Again, a swing fault, or an equipment mismatch that causes problems on the Y axis will cause more side motion in the absence of backspin.

[guisician]

[quote name='Kirasdad' timestamp='1414685116' post='10373937']
...
If I take my hickories to St Andrews in August...
...
[/quote]

YES!!

[NRJyzr]

Played the Srixon QStar yesterday, on a bit of a lark.

IIRC, it's listed at 70 compression, so it's softer than many/most Tour Balls, excepting the FG Tour.

I found it behaved fairly well. I was even pleasantly surprised with the check on a couple short game shots; it's not in the class of the HX Chrome+ I'd been playing, but it was considerably better than the average distance ball. Seemed to hold the line decently in the wind, we had a lot of it yesterday, a healthy test.

I was somewhat surprised, even downwind from the rough (which is fairly short now), I was able to hit a 65 yd wedge shot that hit and stuck on the green.

Early returns suggest it may be a worthy ball.

[CHE KJARRVERA]

Was given a dozen Cally Supersoft's by a good mate a couple of days ago.

Won't have a chance to try them out until next week, but hopefully they are decent (40 odd compression and a bit of greenside spin sounds good...)

After coming back to the game following a sizable break - and subsequently buying up a storm of new and old kit - I wish golf equipment hadn't advanced so far in the twelve years I was away. Albeit, it is arguable what 'advanced' actually means in the bigger picture - I'd wager that golf and other sports have massively regressed thanks to the pro v and the ubiquitous GI shovel (in golf's instance) and professionalism...

[SteveNZ]

[quote name='MattB_NZ' timestamp='1415058344' post='10393071']Was given a dozen Cally Supersoft's by a good mate a couple of days ago.

Won't have a chance to try them out until next week, but hopefully they are decent (40 odd compression and a bit of greenside spin sounds good...)

After coming back to the game following a sizable break - and subsequently buying up a storm of new and old kit - I wish golf equipment hadn't advanced so far in the twelve years I was away. Albeit, it is arguable what 'advanced' actually means in the bigger picture - I'd wager that golf and other sports have massively regressed thanks to the pro v and the ubiquitous GI shovel (in golf's instance) and professionalism...[/quote]

Worth noting also that yellow Staff Duos are currently $19 a doz at Rebel Sport...

[CHE KJARRVERA]

[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415068690' post='10393831'][quote name='MattB_NZ' timestamp='1415058344' post='10393071']Was given a dozen Cally Supersoft's by a good mate a couple of days ago.

Won't have a chance to try them out until next week, but hopefully they are decent (40 odd compression and a bit of greenside spin sounds good...)

After coming back to the game following a sizable break - and subsequently buying up a storm of new and old kit - I wish golf equipment hadn't advanced so far in the twelve years I was away. Albeit, it is arguable what 'advanced' actually means in the bigger picture - I'd wager that golf and other sports have massively regressed thanks to the pro v and the ubiquitous GI shovel (in golf's instance) and professionalism...[/quote]

Worth noting also that yellow Staff Duos are currently $19 a doz at Rebel Sport...[/quote] excellent thanks for the tip - a decent ball that - I'll whip in and grab a box or two.

[CHE KJARRVERA]

[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415068690' post='10393831'][quote name='MattB_NZ' timestamp='1415058344' post='10393071']Was given a dozen Cally Supersoft's by a good mate a couple of days ago.

Won't have a chance to try them out until next week, but hopefully they are decent (40 odd compression and a bit of greenside spin sounds good...)

After coming back to the game following a sizable break - and subsequently buying up a storm of new and old kit - I wish golf equipment hadn't advanced so far in the twelve years I was away. Albeit, it is arguable what 'advanced' actually means in the bigger picture - I'd wager that golf and other sports have massively regressed thanks to the pro v and the ubiquitous GI shovel (in golf's instance) and professionalism...[/quote]

Worth noting also that yellow Staff Duos are currently $19 a doz at Rebel Sport...[/quote]swimming in dozens of low compression golf balls now, plus a bunch of Pro V1's for when I'm feeling in control...

[SteveNZ]

How I pine for the days of the Titleist Professional...

[CHE KJARRVERA]

[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415259282' post='10404483']How I pine for the days of the Titleist Professional...[/quote]I hear that. Young/old enough to have taught myself as a kid with found balatas and broken down shiny gripped mixed set of Spalding / Slazenger butter knives - kicked off the local course a few times back then for not having $ for green fees hehe.

[SteveNZ]

[quote name='MattB_NZ' timestamp='1415263401' post='10404527']
[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415259282' post='10404483']How I pine for the days of the Titleist Professional...[/quote]I hear that. Young/old enough to have taught myself as a kid with found balatas and broken down shiny gripped mixed set of Spalding / Slazenger butter knives - kicked off the local course a few times back then for not having $ for green fees hehe.
[/quote]

I also pine for the days when I played often enough to at least have a half-arsed justification for buying Professionals! I've always had ideas above my station when it comes to golf balls. It's weird, but apart from the Titleist script, nothing - with the exception of the old Bridgestone Precept EV Extra Spin - has ever 'looked' quite right to me.

And I've never hit a Pro V1 so don't be telling me I'm a victim of Titleist marketing hype ;-)

[CHE KJARRVERA]

[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415265795' post='10404549'][quote name='MattB_NZ' timestamp='1415263401' post='10404527']
[quote name='SteveNZ' timestamp='1415259282' post='10404483']How I pine for the days of the Titleist Professional...[/quote]I hear that. Young/old enough to have taught myself as a kid with found balatas and broken down shiny gripped mixed set of Spalding / Slazenger butter knives - kicked off the local course a few times back then for not having $ for green fees hehe.
[/quote]

I also pine for the days when I played often enough to at least have a half-arsed justification for buying Professionals! I've always had ideas above my station when it comes to golf balls. It's weird, but apart from the Titleist script, nothing - with the exception of the old Bridgestone Precept EV Extra Spin - has ever 'looked' quite right to me.

And I've never hit a Pro V1 so don't be telling me I'm a victim of Titleist marketing hype ;-)[/quote]Yea I get that. Lucky (seeing as they're way overpriced) the only Titleist ball I like the feel of is the pro v1, but its spin is a few shots above my current station.

[Kirasdad]

The Titleistt Professional is the nicest feeling golf ball I have ever struck...and I have smote, smited? many a ball.

[ScooterMcTavish]

Time to resurrect the thread!

Think I'll add 50 Elite (white) to contrast it from the yellow.

Will also review the list and see if I missed anything else....

BTW guys, if you're playing something new, post a review for how it plays like the initial post, and we'll add it to the list.

[scomac2002]

[quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1430754390' post='11495365']
Time to resurrect the thread!

Think I'll add 50 Elite (white) to contrast it from the yellow.

Will also review the list and see if I missed anything else....

BTW guys, if you're playing something new, post a review for how it plays like the initial post, and we'll add it to the list.
[/quote]

I've been playing these exclusively with my vintage clubs this season. The feel is exceptional off of both my irons and my laminates; really special actually when you flush one. I'm less thrilled with the feel off of the vintage metal woods as it seems to be almost too soft, as in vacant.

Spin is pretty low for me especially around the greens. I don't know whether it's the ball or the clubs or me. On my regular track it has been tough to get it close on chips and pitches, but that might just be the greens which are lightning quick for this early in the season which has been quite dry so far.

No plans to change as I bought a double dozen initially and have only gone through 5 balls.

[NRJyzr]

I wish I had something new to offer to the thread. But I'm playing Chrome+ balls, which are discontinued, except for what you can find here and there on the intarwebs.

I will say if you want something that's really good in the wind, you can't go wrong with a Callaway hex dimple ball. They're as good as it gets. The TM and Srixon stuff also seem pretty good that way.

[ScooterMcTavish]

[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1430762001' post='11496253']
I wish I had something new to offer to the thread. But I'm playing Chrome+ balls, which are discontinued, except for what you can find here and there on the intarwebs.

I will say if you want something that's really good in the wind, you can't go wrong with a Callaway hex dimple ball. They're as good as it gets. The TM and Srixon stuff also seem pretty good that way.
[/quote]

Also found the Callaways good in the wind, though also think the 50 Elite with its panhead dimples is pretty good. I still fondly remember the best wind ball I ever player, the Maxfli DDH II.

One other note is that a lot of places are cleaning our the Nike 20X1-S balls. If I didn't know better, I'd say these are rebadged B330-RX balls. Not as soft as the RXS, but more than suitable for vintage play.

[oldschoolrocker]

I hear the Duo has a partner this year, The Duo Spin I believe. Haven't tried it out and therefore no idea of its ability.

[Fellaheen51]

Got a 2 ball promo sleeve of the spins when I purchased a doz. regular. Played them side by side yesterday. The compression difference is so marginal that I could not detect a difference in distance or feel. The greens were very hard and getting anything to stop on them was difficult at best. Maybe, on this day, the Spin had slightly less rollout, but difficult to gauge. Plus, not a spin player per se. At this point, don't know if they're worth the $7 uptick. Have quite a few found Pro V's when I want to get "spinny". As always, YMMV.

[BIG STU]

[quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1430767020' post='11496879']
[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1430762001' post='11496253']
I wish I had something new to offer to the thread. But I'm playing Chrome+ balls, which are discontinued, except for what you can find here and there on the intarwebs.

I will say if you want something that's really good in the wind, you can't go wrong with a Callaway hex dimple ball. They're as good as it gets. The TM and Srixon stuff also seem pretty good that way.
[/quote]

Also found the Callaways good in the wind, though also think the 50 Elite with its panhead dimples is pretty good. I still fondly remember the best wind ball I ever player, the Maxfli DDH II.

One other note is that a lot of places are cleaning our the Nike 20X1-S balls. If I didn't know better, I'd say these are rebadged B330-RX balls. Not as soft as the RXS, but more than suitable for vintage play.
[/quote]Actually you are quite observant and correct on your statement about the Nike balls. Bridgestone makes the balls for Nike