Who is going to build a shorter driver based on Wishon article?

[FairwayGolfUSA.com]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1389655072' post='8454515']
[quote name='Mr Fade' timestamp='1389646859' post='8453747']
Many thanks Tom! Educational as always, really appreciated! I am used to my custom fitted driver, 45.25" 312g at D1. According to your post, my experiment, 44" 301g at C3.5 (give or take because of my limited ability to do the sw math) might have a head weight feel pretty similar to my regular driver?

Unfortunately, I have a wide inside out swing, a bit Matt Kuchar like, with a 95-100 mph. The experiment might not turn out perfect then… still, I really like a lighter feel. Not sure the results will be better and the transition and tempo might get totally out of hand, but thats what experiments are for!

Thanks Tom! Still enjoying my 560mc irons, going on year 5 with them! Oh, and the 949mc 4 wood is untouchable. No experiments there, just pure custom fitting.
[/quote]

No, this relationship between length and headweight feel and swingweight is NOT linear. It's more progressively non linear. And a bit complicated. Short answer is that if we have to talk swingweight instead of MOI, the same headweight FEEL you get at D1 on a 45.25" length would be more like C7 to C8 at a length of 44" as long as the shaft weight was the same.

Glad to hear my "boys" are still behaving in your bag! I am headed into year 7 with my 560s in my own set!! Lost about 3mph iron speed this past year (age) so I am starting to cast my eyes on the higher COR model 771's for a way to get my distance back up there and then some!! HA!

TOM
[/quote]

Tom, thanks for the great info. Always love your posts.

I currently play a 60gram shaft with a titleist 910 driver head at 44inches but it "feels" slightly light even with a bunch of lead tape on the head. I wanted to try a 75gram shaft with the same 910 head. Will this give me a overall "stable" "heaiver feel" compared to the 45inch 60gram shaft 910 driver or compared to the 44inch 60gram shaft in the 910 driver head?

I have a 100mph driver swingspeed with a slightly early release and a swing path that comes from the inside on the downswing.

Thank you!

[Sean2]

[quote name='Ri_Redneck' timestamp='1389726400' post='8459787']
[quote name='Sean2' timestamp='1389655836' post='8454591']
Tom, what about "outliers"?

I'm 6'5" in my stocking feet with relatively short arms. When I set-up with a 44-inch driver I feel like I'm holding a hybrid with a very large head. As to fairway woods I like TM, not only because they perform, but because of the added length. Anything shorter and I feel like I'm squatting down too much. One fitter told me a 46-inch driver for me is like a 43.5 to 44.0 inch driver for most golfers.

Thank you,

Sean
[/quote]

My Dad (74) is in the same boat and play his driver at 48", 3w at 45", 5w at 44" and his irons are +2". He never had the lies adjusted. He has a VERY slow smooth tempo though. SS I would guess is around 95mph.
[/quote]

Glad I'm not the only one RI. :-)

[mantan]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1389802664' post='8465289']
[quote name='mantan' timestamp='1389747564' post='8461905']
If only it was that easy to find a good fitter. I live the the 4th biggest metro area in the country and they are scarce.

The 560MC irons and 949MC 4-wood were two of the all time best golf purchases I ever made. I regret selling them both to this day. But until it gets easier to purchase them, they will just be fond memories.
[/quote]

Are you talking about DALLAS/FT WORTH? There are a few pretty darn good clubfitters there that I know personally. Let me know what area of the metroplex you live in and I would be glad to look and see who I know might be closer to your area.

TOM
[/quote]

Tom,

I'm in the Flower Mound area of DFW (just north of the airport). But I'd be willing to go anywhere in the metroplex to get reunited with the 949MC, that thing was a rocket launcher and the easiest FW I've ever hit. Just let me know or PM me.

Thanks!

[TomWishon]

[quote name='FairwayGolfUSA.com' timestamp='1389832314' post='8468241']

Tom, thanks for the great info. Always love your posts.

I currently play a 60gram shaft with a titleist 910 driver head at 44inches but it "feels" slightly light even with a bunch of lead tape on the head. I wanted to try a 75gram shaft with the same 910 head. Will this give me a overall "stable" "heaiver feel" compared to the 45inch 60gram shaft 910 driver or compared to the 44inch 60gram shaft in the 910 driver head?

I have a 100mph driver swingspeed with a slightly early release and a swing path that comes from the inside on the downswing.

Thank you!
[/quote]

Thanks much for sure.

Yes, it does sound from what you say that possibly the next step would be to get into a heavier shaft to bump up the total weight to see if that relieves this slightly light feel. However before you go to that extent since that involves a reshaft and more expense, first think about this.

As you hit shots and think about that sensation you have of the club being slightly light, try to delineate that feeling to see if your perception is that the headweight feel is too light or the overall whole club feel is too light. Sometimes that is tough to delineate, so then do this. I know you said you have a lot of lead tape on the head. But before you yank the shaft and go heavier that way, its a cheap experiment to keep adding more lead tape to the head to see if this helps to get rid of that slightly light feel you perceive. If not or if it gets to a point of now the head feeling too heavy at the end of the shaft during the swing, then you know the move into the heavier shaft was probably the way to go. But when you do that, you still will have to go through this trial and experimentation to determine what headweight is going to feel good to your swing timing with this heavier shaft.

I wish we could invent a "weight feel o-meter" in fitting that we could plug in and it would say "this shaft weight and this headweight for this golfer". But that isn't going to happen because this matter of weight feel can be so specific to each different golfer. Because that weight feel in clubs involves THREE THINGS - length and shaft weight and headweight - it so often ends up requiring some patience as you go through the experimentation to really nail down what feels the best and allows you to swing unrestricted, with no conscious thought of having to manipulate anything during the swing.

TOM

[philsRHman]

[color=#444444]Tom, love your posts. [/color]
[color=#444444]I’ve got a Nike Covert that I have to choke up about an inch or so to hit consistently, but I was hesitant to cut it down. It’s the stock length which is 45.75 which is way too long for me as a 3 handicap with a very aggressive swing, short backswing and with quick tempo so I’m right in the category you say will benefit from shorter driver length. [/color]

[color=#444444]If I lop off 1.75 inches, I’m afraid that’s going to take an awful lot of lead tape. Any ballpark of how many strips I’ll need? If it helps, my favorite driver of the past few years was a Callaway Razr Fit with a whiteboard x73 that measured D6. I went away from it last year when I gained about 20 pounds, lost flexibility from less play, and my SS fell from 118 to 110. Also, any advice for a fitter in central NJ?[/color]

[biffstix]

I'm not going to cut down my 44.75" rocket launcher but I will be building a short 3 wood. Short being 42"... And heavier.

[flyinjoe13]

I have a question regarding cutting down my driver shafts. Please bear with me as I do a little explaining before I ask.

Do to a physical disability (basically I only have half a right arm) I have an extremely slow swing speed. Because of that I always bought into the notion that I neeed a high lofted, very flexible shaft in my driver. I got this notion from reading many articles about driver distance on the net. Unfortunately, I live in an area that doesn't have many fitting places and the ones that do only cater to right handers. So I've had to go about finding a driver the old fashion way. Wasting money until I find one that works. The problem is that high lofted and flexible shafts have led me to balloon the ball because I have a very upward angle of attack since I can't really extend through impact because of the short right arm. What happens is that right about at impact my swing is forced up by my short right arm so I have found that I have the best results with lower lofted drivers. I actually hit my best drives with 9* or 9.5* heads, but the stock shafts of 45"+ are very hard to control for me because i'm basically holding on with one hand. My current driver has a 45.25" shaft.

I'd like to consider going shorter to help with the weight and control, maybe something like a 44" - 44.5" shaft. So here is my question. I am assuming that shortening the shaft an inch or more will reduce the shaft flex. Does this mean I should also consider a loft increase to compensate for the loss in flex since the tip wont kick as much at impact? I'd still have the problem of the extreme upward angle of attack, but with the reduced kick, I thought maybe that angle may be reduced a bit requiring a little higher loft.

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions...

[sheffield]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1389891055' post='8471581']
[quote name='FairwayGolfUSA.com' timestamp='1389832314' post='8468241']
Tom, thanks for the great info. Always love your posts.

I currently play a 60gram shaft with a titleist 910 driver head at 44inches but it "feels" slightly light even with a bunch of lead tape on the head. I wanted to try a 75gram shaft with the same 910 head. Will this give me a overall "stable" "heaiver feel" compared to the 45inch 60gram shaft 910 driver or compared to the 44inch 60gram shaft in the 910 driver head?

I have a 100mph driver swingspeed with a slightly early release and a swing path that comes from the inside on the downswing.

Thank you!
[/quote]

Thanks much for sure.

Yes, it does sound from what you say that possibly the next step would be to get into a heavier shaft to bump up the total weight to see if that relieves this slightly light feel. However before you go to that extent since that involves a reshaft and more expense, first think about this.

As you hit shots and think about that sensation you have of the club being slightly light, try to delineate that feeling to see if your perception is that the headweight feel is too light or the overall whole club feel is too light. Sometimes that is tough to delineate, so then do this. I know you said you have a lot of lead tape on the head. But before you yank the shaft and go heavier that way, its a cheap experiment to keep adding more lead tape to the head to see if this helps to get rid of that slightly light feel you perceive. If not or if it gets to a point of now the head feeling too heavy at the end of the shaft during the swing, then you know the move into the heavier shaft was probably the way to go. But when you do that, you still will have to go through this trial and experimentation to determine what headweight is going to feel good to your swing timing with this heavier shaft.

I wish we could invent a "weight feel o-meter" in fitting that we could plug in and it would say "this shaft weight and this headweight for this golfer". But that isn't going to happen because this matter of weight feel can be so specific to each different golfer. Because that weight feel in clubs involves THREE THINGS - length and shaft weight and headweight - it so often ends up requiring some patience as you go through the experimentation to really nail down what feels the best and allows you to swing unrestricted, with no conscious thought of having to manipulate anything during the swing.

TOM
[/quote]
Tom... anyone... is another option to add weight to the shaft... Using lead tape small strips evenly distributed from hosel to grip. Can this approximate what a heavier shaft would feel like... again not advocating piling it on in a few places and of course this is just an "experiment" prior to maybe reshafting...
s

[Pigems]

I believe someone said earlier in the thread that if you wrap the lead tape around the shaft aprox. 14" down from the butt end it will simulate a heavier shaft without changing swingweight or flex. If I remember correctly anyways

[TomWishon]

[quote name='sheffield' timestamp='1390104025' post='8487225']

Tom... anyone... is another option to add weight to the shaft... Using lead tape small strips evenly distributed from hosel to grip. Can this approximate what a heavier shaft would feel like... again not advocating piling it on in a few places and of course this is just an "experiment" prior to maybe reshafting...
s
[/quote]

Pigems is close - if you wrap lead tape around a point that is 14" down from the end of the grip, you will increase the total weight of the club without changing the swingweight. Since it might look a little funny to wrap over and over and over only in this one tiny spot 14" down from the end of the grip, as long as you keep the tape above and below but close to that 14" point, you'll be ok. Usually it takes more than 10g increase in total weight before most golfers notice anything so that will be a bit of lead tape.

TOM

[Pigems]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1390154558' post='8489661']
[quote name='sheffield' timestamp='1390104025' post='8487225']
Tom... anyone... is another option to add weight to the shaft... Using lead tape small strips evenly distributed from hosel to grip. Can this approximate what a heavier shaft would feel like... again not advocating piling it on in a few places and of course this is just an "experiment" prior to maybe reshafting...
s
[/quote]

Pigems is close - if you wrap lead tape around a point that is 14" down from the end of the grip, you will increase the total weight of the club without changing the swingweight. Since it might look a little funny to wrap over and over and over only in this one tiny spot 14" down from the end of the grip, as long as you keep the tape above and below but close to that 14" point, you'll be ok. Usually it takes more than 10g increase in total weight before most golfers notice anything so that will be a bit of lead tape.

TOM
[/quote]

I'll take close, at least it proves I'm learning something here lol

[juanki]

how much weght is one inch, when you butt trim a shaft, i assume that depending on the shaft, is the weigt loss, lets say a 55 grm shaft, a 65 and a 75?

lets say i have two shafts that are the same model, one in 65 and one in 75 grs, how much would you have to trimm so you can get the same sw?

also nobody has talk about the stiffness of the shaft, what happens to the cpm mesurement? tnx

[SeekonkHolen1]

[quote name='philsRHman' timestamp='1390090388' post='8485853']
[color=#444444]Tom, love your posts. [/color]
[color=#444444]I’ve got a Nike Covert that I have to choke up about an inch or so to hit consistently, but I was hesitant to cut it down. It’s the stock length which is 45.75 which is way too long for me as a 3 handicap with a very aggressive swing, short backswing and with quick tempo so I’m right in the category you say will benefit from shorter driver length. [/color]

[color=#444444]If I lop off 1.75 inches, I’m afraid that’s going to take an awful lot of lead tape. Any ballpark of how many strips I’ll need? If it helps, my favorite driver of the past few years was a Callaway Razr Fit with a whiteboard x73 that measured D6. I went away from it last year when I gained about 20 pounds, lost flexibility from less play, and my SS fell from 118 to 110. Also, any advice for a fitter in central NJ?[/color]
[/quote]

From simply a practical stand point, if you are gripping down on the club you are already playing it at a lighter swing weight because the balance point is shifted based on your grip point and the portion of the shaft that is beyond your hands (closer to you) is playing no part in the club anymore. I'm sure Tom will correct me if I'm wrong but the only thing you would note is a slight decrease in overall weight. I'm sure this can be proven on a swing weight scale.

[TomWishon]

[quote name='philsRHman' timestamp='1390090388' post='8485853']
[color=#444444]Tom, love your posts. [/color]
[color=#444444]I’ve got a Nike Covert that I have to choke up about an inch or so to hit consistently, but I was hesitant to cut it down. It’s the stock length which is 45.75 which is way too long for me as a 3 handicap with a very aggressive swing, short backswing and with quick tempo so I’m right in the category you say will benefit from shorter driver length. [/color]

[color=#444444]If I lop off 1.75 inches, I’m afraid that’s going to take an awful lot of lead tape. Any ballpark of how many strips I’ll need? If it helps, my favorite driver of the past few years was a Callaway Razr Fit with a whiteboard x73 that measured D6. I went away from it last year when I gained about 20 pounds, lost flexibility from less play, and my SS fell from 118 to 110. Also, any advice for a fitter in central NJ?[/color]
[/quote]

You know, really, it is fine to just play a longer driver by gripping down instead of thinking that you have to actually cut the driver physically. The only thing that comes into consideration on this really is whether the grip feels too small when you grip down on the club. If you had a NEW driver custom fit for every spec to your swing, OK in that case for sure it should be built to the shorter length you determine or the clubfitter determines is best for you, your swing and your control. Building a NEW driver to a shorter length with all the other proper fitting specs for you is easier to do than to try to alter an existing one that was built to some longer length with everything else set up for that longer length.

As to a clubmaker in NJ, if Denville is not too much of a hassle to get to for you, in Denville is Tim Mosel who quite frankly is one of the very best in the entire country. Flat out. Tim's at 973-586-1700 and you can learn more about him and his work at www.timmosel.com . But really, I am not mincing words in my praise of his knowledge and skills and experience. He's definitely worth a drive to see if you are serious about getting your sticks right for you.

TOM

[TomWishon]

[quote name='juanki' timestamp='1390356912' post='8505755']
how much weght is one inch, when you butt trim a shaft, i assume that depending on the shaft, is the weigt loss, lets say a 55 grm shaft, a 65 and a 75?

lets say i have two shafts that are the same model, one in 65 and one in 75 grs, how much would you have to trimm so you can get the same sw?

also nobody has talk about the stiffness of the shaft, what happens to the cpm mesurement? tnx
[/quote]

While there is always a consideration for the weight distribution of a shaft and its effect on the weight per inch of the shaft, usually the differences in butt heavy to tip heavy construction in different shafts is small enough that you still can accurately guesstimate the weight per inch of any shaft by simply dividing the raw uncut weight of the shaft by its raw length. So a 55g raw weight shaft that is made with a raw uncut length of 46" is very close to being 1.2g per inch. Even if you had one 55g shaft that had its balance point on the butt side of the center and another with its BP on the tip side of the center, their differences in how they affect the weight per increment of length are so slight that it would not throw that weight per inch off by more than a few tenths of a gram which is of course insignificantly small.

TOM

[juanki]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1390410037' post='8509189']
[quote name='juanki' timestamp='1390356912' post='8505755']
how much weght is one inch, when you butt trim a shaft, i assume that depending on the shaft, is the weigt loss, lets say a 55 grm shaft, a 65 and a 75?

lets say i have two shafts that are the same model, one in 65 and one in 75 grs, how much would you have to trimm so you can get the same sw?

also nobody has talk about the stiffness of the shaft, what happens to the cpm mesurement? tnx
[/quote]

While there is always a consideration for the weight distribution of a shaft and its effect on the weight per inch of the shaft, usually the differences in butt heavy to tip heavy construction in different shafts is small enough that you still can accurately guesstimate the weight per inch of any shaft by simply dividing the raw uncut weight of the shaft by its raw length. So a 55g raw weight shaft that is made with a raw uncut length of 46" is very close to being 1.2g per inch. Even if you had one 55g shaft that had its balance point on the butt side of the center and another with its BP on the tip side of the center, their differences in how they affect the weight per increment of length are so slight that it would not throw that weight per inch off by more than a few tenths of a gram which is of course insignificantly small.

TOM
[/quote]
That low? Wow , i thought it wolud be more, so from raw to let say 44 inc driver, you cut about 3.5 inches, 1.5 aprox and depending on the bbhm (¿) and 2to gethem to length, that will de aprox 4grms that is really small,

On the other hand, if you cut more from the butt, does the stiffnes of the chaft changes? Say you have a shaft at 270 cpm you cut 1 inch from butt, how much will it read?
Tnx tom....

Cant belive you have the time and interest to answer to all of us, tnx again

[TomWishon]

[quote name='juanki' timestamp='1390412981' post='8509607']

That low? Wow , i thought it wolud be more, so from raw to let say 44 inc driver, you cut about 3.5 inches, 1.5 aprox and depending on the bbhm (¿) and 2to gethem to length, that will de aprox 4grms that is really small,

On the other hand, if you cut more from the butt, does the stiffnes of the chaft changes? Say you have a shaft at 270 cpm you cut 1 inch from butt, how much will it read?

[/quote]

It's easy to prove this to yourself. Just take ANY shaft that doesn't have tape on the butt end or epoxy up the tip - measure its length, weigh it, cut an inch from the butt and an inch from the tip. Weigh those cut sections and you will see they are very close to the original shaft weight divided by its length.

Cutting from the tip increases a shaft's overall stiffness more than does cutting from the butt. This is because in the design of ANY shaft, the butt is always the stiffest part because it is much bigger in diameter. The tip is always the least stiff part because it is the smallest in diameter. Diameter is more influential on actual stiffness than is wall thickness. So cutting away some of that stiffest part of the butt does not increase the stiffness as rapidly or as much as will cutting away some of the most flexible part of the shaft.

How much a shaft increases in stiffness from cutting either end depends on a lot of different factors - did the headweight get increased when you shortened the club from the grip end or not, how was the shaft's progression of stiffness change over its length designed, etc. By and large though, if you cut an inch from the butt to shorten the length, when you put some weight back in the head or on the head to restore the headweight feel during the swing so the club won;t swing too head light at its shorter length, the net result of what you did to the shaft's stiffness design and feel is insignificant and won't be noticed by 99% of all golfers.

So if you need to cut down the length of a club do it and don't worry about the effect on the shaft's stiffness design but DO WORRY about making sure to go through a trial and experiment period of adding weight to the head, hitting shots, and seeing where that headweight needs to be to restore enough headweight FEEL that your swing tempo, timing are all good for the club at its new shorter length.

TOM

[juanki]

got it, tnx tom, cheers from mexico

[FairwayGolfUSA.com]

[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1389891055' post='8471581']
[quote name='FairwayGolfUSA.com' timestamp='1389832314' post='8468241']
Tom, thanks for the great info. Always love your posts.

I currently play a 60gram shaft with a titleist 910 driver head at 44inches but it "feels" slightly light even with a bunch of lead tape on the head. I wanted to try a 75gram shaft with the same 910 head. Will this give me a overall "stable" "heaiver feel" compared to the 45inch 60gram shaft 910 driver or compared to the 44inch 60gram shaft in the 910 driver head?

I have a 100mph driver swingspeed with a slightly early release and a swing path that comes from the inside on the downswing.

Thank you!
[/quote]

Thanks much for sure.

Yes, it does sound from what you say that possibly the next step would be to get into a heavier shaft to bump up the total weight to see if that relieves this slightly light feel. However before you go to that extent since that involves a reshaft and more expense, first think about this.

As you hit shots and think about that sensation you have of the club being slightly light, try to delineate that feeling to see if your perception is that the headweight feel is too light or the overall whole club feel is too light. Sometimes that is tough to delineate, so then do this. I know you said you have a lot of lead tape on the head. But before you yank the shaft and go heavier that way, its a cheap experiment to keep adding more lead tape to the head to see if this helps to get rid of that slightly light feel you perceive. If not or if it gets to a point of now the head feeling too heavy at the end of the shaft during the swing, then you know the move into the heavier shaft was probably the way to go. But when you do that, you still will have to go through this trial and experimentation to determine what headweight is going to feel good to your swing timing with this heavier shaft.

I wish we could invent a "weight feel o-meter" in fitting that we could plug in and it would say "this shaft weight and this headweight for this golfer". But that isn't going to happen because this matter of weight feel can be so specific to each different golfer. Because that weight feel in clubs involves THREE THINGS - length and shaft weight and headweight - it so often ends up requiring some patience as you go through the experimentation to really nail down what feels the best and allows you to swing unrestricted, with no conscious thought of having to manipulate anything during the swing.

TOM
[/quote]

Thank you Tom! I will experiment and do exactly what you stated. Your knowledge is priceless and we are very lucky to have you on these boards.

[Pigems]

Someone should start a Tom Wishon Appreciation Thread

[mikec3672]

[quote name='nova6868' timestamp='1389304123' post='8430399']
44" with 12-13 loft is probably what many amateurs would probably play best with.

I don't know why some smaller OEM doesnt try it. Don't even stamp loft on the head. Just an adjustable hosel for "higher" or "lower". I'd love to try one.
[/quote]That's called the new PING Rapture 3-Wood ;-)...can't wait to try that!!

[Cwebb]

I'm gonna build a new Wishon 919 "Fairway Driver" at a 'shorter length', when they arrive later in March

[Cwebb]

[quote name='mikec3672' timestamp='1390442185' post='8513141']
[quote name='nova6868' timestamp='1389304123' post='8430399']
44" with 12-13 loft is probably what many amateurs would probably play best with.

I don't know why some smaller OEM doesnt try it. Don't even stamp loft on the head. Just an adjustable hosel for "higher" or "lower". I'd love to try one.
[/quote]That's called the new PING Rapture 3-Wood ;-)...can't wait to try that!!
[/quote]

or...the new Wishon 919 "Fairway Driver" 11-14* loft

[PapaJohick]

this may have been answered in here already and i am sorry but was wondering,

if i cut down a stock driver from 45.75 to 44.5 with a sw of D6 at stock length, the sw would go to about D0 correct? Also, if I do trim that much just off the butt would it make it play softer (Stock Phenom Stiff in new Wilson M3 Driver)? I don't mind it going softer as I usually fit in between R and S in most shafts any ways, but would it be more beneficial to tip .5' and then the rest off the butt or all from the butt? Or would it just depend on feel, swing characteristics, etc? @tomwishon would really like to get your POV on this, but as always all replies appreciated. Hopefully this post makes sense haha.

[Pigems]

Don't quote me on this but I think if you tip the shaft it will make the tip stiffer and same for the butt end. I took and inch off the butt of my driver and 3 wood and couldn't notice any change in flex at all. I could however notice the sw change and weighted the head of my 3 wood back to d3

[PapaJohick]

Oh ok. I know that top trim = stiffer but since I am in between the two flexes I wouldn't want to tip trim if it makes it stiffer than normal even with butt trimming as well. I don't mind a slight sw change either as I know from reading here that a lighter sw may be ok since I am shortening the driver an it may end up feeling similar

[Pigems]

[quote name='Papa Johick' timestamp='1392412239' post='8669411']
Oh ok. I know that top trim = stiffer but since I am in between the two flexes I wouldn't want to tip trim if it makes it stiffer than normal even with butt trimming as well. I don't mind a slight sw change either as I know from reading here that a lighter sw may be ok since I am shortening the driver an it may end up feeling similar
[/quote]

There are also ways to make the shaft more flexible again if you were to take some from the butt and some from the tip too though, I believe that adding weight to the head will at a certain point start to make the shaft softer again. Im just learning all this stuff myself right now so i only really know the basics of it as of now. So I could also be completely off here too lol. But There are a lot of really smart golf guys on here who can help you out with more specific info, hopefully they will jump in soon and help ya out

[PapaJohick]

Haha for sure. Thanks for the info!

[Pigems]

[quote name='Papa Johick' timestamp='1392416090' post='8669777']
Haha for sure. Thanks for the info!
[/quote]

NP and anytime. I CAN give you one final piece of advice that can say it 100% true. Measure Thrice, Cut once because once it's cut you can't put it back on lol

[liquiddi2]

I played a X100 steel shaft at 42.5 inches all last summer and I'm a now a 2.7 index from 4.0. I will never go back to a longer driver.