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Do categories matter? (players iron, game improvement, super game improvement)


bonvivantva

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First of all, how to the clubs get categorized.

For the original Maltby Playability Factor classifications, the Maltby/GolfWorks people evaluated the 6i head of different iron models. The crew came up with a five-variable equation with three center of gravity measures, a center face measure, and the club's MOI to generate the MPF rating score. The MPF sought to determine the overall user-friendliness of the clubhead. And the MPF came up with six categories of irons.

I2ABRD883FIP.pngNow, Maltby himself cautions that the MPF only accounts for the role of the clubhead. It does not take into account shaft variety, or the golfer's swingspeed.

On the other hand, the Golf Digest Hot List compares clubs within particular marketing niches: Super game improvement, game improvement, player's distance and players.

Most people use the Hot List category - it's easier to understand. And the Hot List and the MPF are guides. Most of the time I test out best with Game Improvement clubs. My last two sets have been:

X20 Tours: Hot List = player's club, but not quite too bulky a sole / MPF = 716, low end SGI. The irons played better once I switched from Project X to NS Pro 8950GH irons.CB Pro Tungstens: Hot List and Golf mag = Game Improvement, with a bit less length but excellent distance control. I really like them - head fit my sweeper swing - but may go from steel to graphite in shafts.That said, I have had some disagreements with the categories. The Hot List GI Hogan PTx irons sounded like a soul mate, but I never got consistent launch with them. Tried at demo day and later used with different shaft, but it just didn't work.

On the other side, there's the Ping i200 irons, ranked as either player's or player's distance - something I should avoid. But, when I hit them shafted with the AWT 2.0 R-flex, I hit lots of solid shots - even got 4i off the turf fairly well. It was the head plus the AWT shaft design which has lighter shafts on the longer irons. But, my wife told me a week earlier that two golf bags was enough, so I ended up not buying them.

So, the Hot List and MPF serve as guidelines. Circa 2012 I went on line on a rainy day to see what iron model were available. Between the top eight OEMs, 68 iron models from the current and just-prior production cycles were available. So, the classifications can give you an idea of what category of irons you should try, in case you don't have time to try two dozen models. If you work with a decent fitter, they can tell you when to "jump categories" for something that might work.

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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It matters, but if you hit the ball solidly with any club design there is unlikely to be a significant difference in your scores.

Design matters by personal taste in drivers, fairway woods, hybrids, irons, wedges, and putters, not to mention golf gloves, shoes, socks etc. etc etc..

In my case I can't determine if I like a club until I have played it for 5 or 10 rounds on a real golf course.

Buy some irons, play them for a while and if you don't like them sell them at a modest loss and consider it a learning experience.

 

 

Rogue ST Max Graphite Design MAD
Rogue 3HL and 7 wood
Sub 70 4/5/6 949x Hybrid
Sub 70 699 Pro Black 7-GW Recoil 680 F4
Sub 70 JB Forged Wedges 54/58

Odyssey EXO Seven Slant

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