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removing epoxy from shaft tip


CircleC29

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Try at your own risk, but I've found that you can use a hammer and punch to remove the epoxy from the tip of graphite shafts. The inside of the shaft  is very smooth, and the epoxy does not bond well to it. I've removed3"-4" of epoxy this way, but you need to hit it fairly hard when it's that long. All my current iron shafts had ±3" in them, and I punched them all out. THey come out as perfectly smooth plugs.

No ill affects after 2 years of playing them.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Piretti Cottonwood II, 375g - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/15/2022 at 4:26 PM, dlovage said:

Long bump here but I have to echo the confusion around anything having to do with the butt end of the shaft. Is the epoxy plug or build up not just in the distal (end) tip of the shaft near the head? I'm confused why someone posted a massively long drill bit and someone else was talking about entering through the grip hole??

Distal end, huh? You must have some medical background. 😉

 

Without going back and reading every comment, I think what is being discussed is drilling out old epoxy from a graphite shaft tip.  Sometimes when the cub is built and too much epoxy is used, it will extend into the shaft and further up toward the grip than normal.  We're talking an inch or two, max. Nothing crazy.  However, a standard drill bit may not be long enough to clear it out, so a longer one may be necessary.  The inside diameter of a graphite shaft is much smaller than a steel shaft so an extra epoxy will rise higher up the shaft in graphite over steel. 

 

One issue that can occur with removing heads from graphite shafts is the remaining epoxy plug can break loose and move up and down the shaft.  The best way I have found to prevent this is to let the plug cool and then drill it out.  Otherwise you will need to remove it through the distal end 😜.

PXG Black Ops 10.5* - Ventus Velocore Blue TR 6X

PXG Gen 5 0311 15* - Aldila Tour Blue 75X

PXG  Gen 5 0311 19* - Aldila Tour Blue 85X

PXG 0311T Gen 5 4-P - DG120 X100

Titleist Vokey SM9 50*, 56*, 60* - DGTI S400

PXG Bat Attack H

Chrome Soft/Vice Pro Lime
 

 

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You want to attack this as SOON as you pull the head from the shaft (while the epoxy is warm).  You should be able to push it towards the but end with a punch or a drill bit.

Drilling this can get a little hairy as if your angle isn't good & the epoxy is hard you can drill right into the tip & not even know till it's too late.

 

I have no clue what the post talking about drilling from the butt end was all about thats not only impossible it's dumb.

Taylormade QI10LS 10.5 (@9.5) Fujikura Ventus Velocore Blue 6S (Testing Velocore + 6S)
Taylormade Stealth 2+ 15 (@14.50) Fujikura Motore Speeder 8.1S Tipped .5"
Callaway Apex "21" 19/3H Aldila Rogue Black TS95 Tipped .5"
Taylormade SLDR 4i DGSLS300S
Taylormade P750 7-PW P770 5i-6i DG AMT White S300
Taylormade MG2 52 DGTIS400, MG4TW 56/12 DGTIS400, & Tour Issued MG3 Hi Toe 60/09 DGTIS200 115
Scotty Cameron TeI3 Long Neck Newport 2 34" (34")
Bridgestone Tour B XS (Testing New TP5x)

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Echo the above, do it as soon as the head is pulled and if need be grab a 12" drill bit.  Makes easy work of it plus you can make sure the shaft isn't clogged higher in the shaft for reinstall.  Nothing worse than putting a head on a pulled shaft only to have air push it back.

Titleist TSR3 8* / Fuji Ventus Black TR 6X               

Titleist TSR2+ / Fuji Ventus Black TR 7X               

Callaway UW / Fuji Ventu Black 8X

Edel SMS iron 4-5 / DG TI X100 /////  SMS PRO irons 6-PW / DG TI X100

Edel SMS 50V, 54T, 60T / DG TI S400/ BGT ZNE 130

Edel PROTO




 

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I keep a 4" piece of STRAIGHT metal coathanger on my bench for this. With the grip removed, drill about 1/2" of the epoxy out of the tip, place the b u t t end of the shaft on the floor with the tip pointing at the ceiling, insert the coathanger piece in the tip and tap with a hammer. All of the epoxy should fall out the b u t t end of the shaft. Done this a thousand times.

 

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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