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For those that have applied the GG pivot


Kuuuch

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This may have already been answered, but in terms of top of backswing position, is erring with more depth or width preferred...? In other words, high hands in line with the body at the top or low hands behind the body...?

 

Based on the over the shoulder lessons on the site, I think he would say of the 2, he errs on the side of high hands. I've never seen any of his students with Kuchar-esque hands behind the body, but plenty have high hands like Bubba. High hands match the steep to shallow move.

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Anyone fancy outlining the theory of this? I need to shallow out the downswing something shocking and I'll try any auld muck.

 

Go to his Instagram and watch the videos. I'm not sure anyone can or would want to try to make an outline from start to finish especially when there's lots of free content out there. This thread is a decent enough supplement after you've watched the Instagram. He also has a paysite with more content.

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Just wanted to say a couple things. Once I learned the dana/gg pivot: throwing, pulling or actively straightening feels horrible. Also in regards to the clubface being closed coming down. It really just lines up parallel with spine from DTL and is square. And it really helps with with rotation. Dana has great videos on this.

 

I did go through a rough patch when I was letting the clubhead get inside on the takeaway. It has to feel a little off plane and steep going back in order to get the rotation coming down.

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Just wanted to say a couple things. Once I learned the dana/gg pivot: throwing, pulling or actively straightening feels horrible. Also in regards to the clubface being closed coming down. It really just lines up parallel with spine from DTL and is square. And it really helps with with rotation. Dana has great videos on this.

 

I did go through a rough patch when I was letting the clubhead get inside on the takeaway. It has to feel a little off plane and steep going back in order to get the rotation coming down.

I agree with the clubface being square but its not talked about enough in regards to this tbh. I think without that there is no point to the pivot which is mostly whats talked about.
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Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

 

It took me a couple weeks to stop hitting blocks with the driver, I think part of it was I was going into flexion too early and I wasn't getting the right shoulder towards the target soon enough.

 

It took a while to get the move right. Watching Kelvin and GG video have shown me alot about the golf swing and how to properly hit a golf ball. Plus I have regained also my lost power.

Pro Caddie & I teach golf

Driver: PXG 9* ; HZDRUS Handcrafted 63 6.0

Long Game: PXG 13*, PXG 16*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 83 6.5 (flip between the two)

Driving Iron: PXG 0311 4 iron bent 17.5*; ProForce VTS 100HX 

Hybrid: PXG Gen 1 19*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 100 6.5

Irons: NIKE CB 4-PW Raw finish ; Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour Stiff (.25 inch gapping)

Wedges: Titleist SM9 50*, 54*; True Temper DG S300 (36 inches)

L-Wedge: Custom 60*; KBS Tour Stiff (36 inches)

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Design #5 35 inches: Super Stroke GP Tour

Ball: ProV1x

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Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

 

I have been trying this on the range and I have the same issue. Irons are fine, though the miss is a pull draw. Need to dwell upper body at top more. Driver I find difficult to do it with. Blocks are the miss, feel like I am dropping club too deep and behind. I did have a lot more success when I simply moved ball up an inch in my stance.

 

I really like the move, it reinforces use of the body and quells the desire to hammer with arms and limits over swing break down.I added Padrig Harrington's advice of pointing chest at the ball coming through impact. Doing both really upped consistency, really good misses and great pure shots. Both are keepers for now.

 

Exactly. Your core should follow your club through the swing. You do this, your body will move as one

Pro Caddie & I teach golf

Driver: PXG 9* ; HZDRUS Handcrafted 63 6.0

Long Game: PXG 13*, PXG 16*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 83 6.5 (flip between the two)

Driving Iron: PXG 0311 4 iron bent 17.5*; ProForce VTS 100HX 

Hybrid: PXG Gen 1 19*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 100 6.5

Irons: NIKE CB 4-PW Raw finish ; Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour Stiff (.25 inch gapping)

Wedges: Titleist SM9 50*, 54*; True Temper DG S300 (36 inches)

L-Wedge: Custom 60*; KBS Tour Stiff (36 inches)

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Design #5 35 inches: Super Stroke GP Tour

Ball: ProV1x

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Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

 

I have been trying this on the range and I have the same issue. Irons are fine, though the miss is a pull draw. Need to dwell upper body at top more. Driver I find difficult to do it with. Blocks are the miss, feel like I am dropping club too deep and behind. I did have a lot more success when I simply moved ball up an inch in my stance.

 

I really like the move, it reinforces use of the body and quells the desire to hammer with arms and limits over swing break down.I added Padrig Harrington's advice of pointing chest at the ball coming through impact. Doing both really upped consistency, really good misses and great pure shots. Both are keepers for now.

 

Exactly. Your core should follow your club through the swing. You do this, your body will move as one

 

Your core should follow your club or your club should follow your core?I might be wrong but I think that the center of GG methods is that the core leads and the core transports the hands and club through impact.

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What's the school of thought here for p6? Face matching spine angle?

 

Yes

 

Wow I'm open, i am 5* open of vertical

Mizuno ST190G atmos 6s
Mizuno MP18 2fh / PX 6.0
Mizuno MP18 3-Pw/ PX 6.0
Mizuno S18 5310+5812/PX 6.0
Ping TR Anser 1966/ 34”

Ball - pro v1x
Grips - Crossline cord

Lofts 18 , 21.5, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 58

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Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.
Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.
I have been trying this on the range and I have the same issue. Irons are fine, though the miss is a pull draw. Need to dwell upper body at top more. Driver I find difficult to do it with. Blocks are the miss, feel like I am dropping club too deep and behind. I did have a lot more success when I simply moved ball up an inch in my stance. I really like the move, it reinforces use of the body and quells the desire to hammer with arms and limits over swing break down.I added Padrig Harrington's advice of pointing chest at the ball coming through impact. Doing both really upped consistency, really good misses and great pure shots. Both are keepers for now.
Exactly. Your core should follow your club through the swing. You do this, your body will move as one
Your core should follow your club or your club should follow your core?I might be wrong but I think that the center of GG methods is that the core leads and the core transports the hands and club through impact.

 

I find GG's advice on rear elbow bending to 90 degree max very important, it seems if I go past that I also am overswinging automatically---with arms no longer even close to being in front of core.

 

2nd positon that really helps is to proctive with the club in position portrayed in the instatgram where he is against the wall with his posterior, the rear wrist set to where clubhead is also against the wall. (https://www.instagram.com/p/3cARJgCt1p/)

 

From both those position portrayed in Instagram........I can really go at the ball, but maybe if I wasn't 58 could turn more and set club/hands higher and get back also.......maybe with more time and practice that will come.

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What's the school of thought here for p6? Face matching spine angle?

 

Yes

 

Wow I'm open, i am 5* open of vertical

 

That's a piece of his pattern. The way your face is now might be fine for how you swing.

 

No doubt why I have to stall and flip my hands . I know now that if I can get it closed more by p6 I can rotate without hitting a push slice

 

What would cause the club to be open in this position it's square at the top with a slightly cupped left wrist that doesn't flatten in transition, this is the problem right?

Mizuno ST190G atmos 6s
Mizuno MP18 2fh / PX 6.0
Mizuno MP18 3-Pw/ PX 6.0
Mizuno S18 5310+5812/PX 6.0
Ping TR Anser 1966/ 34”

Ball - pro v1x
Grips - Crossline cord

Lofts 18 , 21.5, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 58

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What's the school of thought here for p6? Face matching spine angle?

 

Yes

 

Wow I'm open, i am 5* open of vertical

 

That's a piece of his pattern. The way your face is now might be fine for how you swing.

 

No doubt why I have to stall and flip my hands . I know now that if I can get it closed more by p6 I can rotate without hitting a push slice

 

What would cause the club to be open in this position it's square at the top with a slightly cupped left wrist that doesn't flatten in transition, this is the problem right?

 

These sound like pretty significant changes to be making based on random posts on a message board. Aren't you already a pretty good player? I'd just be careful about trying to throw random things into your pattern.

 

As for your second question, I wouldn't be so sure the club was "square" at the top. I think you'd need to 100 percent confirm that before going forward.

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This may have already been answered, but in terms of top of backswing position, is erring with more depth or width preferred...? In other words, high hands in line with the body at the top or low hands behind the body...?

 

Based on the over the shoulder lessons on the site, I think he would say of the 2, he errs on the side of high hands. I've never seen any of his students with Kuchar-esque hands behind the body, but plenty have high hands like Bubba. High hands match the steep to shallow move.

 

There is a thought out there that higher hands is better for speed (certain camp). George could of been teaching it all along, who knows. I like it, as long as your not missing too far right and still getting some depth.

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This may have already been answered, but in terms of top of backswing position, is erring with more depth or width preferred...? In other words, high hands in line with the body at the top or low hands behind the body...?

 

Based on the over the shoulder lessons on the site, I think he would say of the 2, he errs on the side of high hands. I've never seen any of his students with Kuchar-esque hands behind the body, but plenty have high hands like Bubba. High hands match the steep to shallow move.

 

There is a thought out there that higher hands is better for speed. George could of been teaching it all along, who knows. I like it, as long as your not missing too far right and still getting some depth.

 

I have heard him say high hands produces speed like bubba or JT. He says big shoulder turn at the right time gets high hands not lifting

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This may have already been answered, but in terms of top of backswing position, is erring with more depth or width preferred...? In other words, high hands in line with the body at the top or low hands behind the body...?

 

Based on the over the shoulder lessons on the site, I think he would say of the 2, he errs on the side of high hands. I've never seen any of his students with Kuchar-esque hands behind the body, but plenty have high hands like Bubba. High hands match the steep to shallow move.

 

There is a thought out there that higher hands is better for speed. George could of been teaching it all along, who knows. I like it, as long as your not missing too far right and still getting some depth.

 

I have heard him say high hands produces speed like bubba or JT. He says big shoulder turn at the right time gets high hands not lifting

 

yep, I agree. Just need to make sure getting enough depth if you are missing too right.

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Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

Do you guys have some experience with the driver being more difficult to ingrain? I think that I have the GG pivot better and better under control with most clubs but with the driver I had a number of round where I could not stop the blocks. Should I be more deliberate or slower with the pivot? My feeling is that I stand up too quickly but don't seem to be able to fix it on the course.

 

I have been trying this on the range and I have the same issue. Irons are fine, though the miss is a pull draw. Need to dwell upper body at top more. Driver I find difficult to do it with. Blocks are the miss, feel like I am dropping club too deep and behind. I did have a lot more success when I simply moved ball up an inch in my stance.

 

I really like the move, it reinforces use of the body and quells the desire to hammer with arms and limits over swing break down.I added Padrig Harrington's advice of pointing chest at the ball coming through impact. Doing both really upped consistency, really good misses and great pure shots. Both are keepers for now.

 

Exactly. Your core should follow your club through the swing. You do this, your body will move as one

 

Your core should follow your club or your club should follow your core?I might be wrong but I think that the center of GG methods is that the core leads and the core transports the hands and club through impact.

 

Chicken and egg. They move as one. But yes one leads the other. We are both saying the same thing

Pro Caddie & I teach golf

Driver: PXG 9* ; HZDRUS Handcrafted 63 6.0

Long Game: PXG 13*, PXG 16*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 83 6.5 (flip between the two)

Driving Iron: PXG 0311 4 iron bent 17.5*; ProForce VTS 100HX 

Hybrid: PXG Gen 1 19*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 100 6.5

Irons: NIKE CB 4-PW Raw finish ; Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour Stiff (.25 inch gapping)

Wedges: Titleist SM9 50*, 54*; True Temper DG S300 (36 inches)

L-Wedge: Custom 60*; KBS Tour Stiff (36 inches)

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Design #5 35 inches: Super Stroke GP Tour

Ball: ProV1x

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Have been seeing some great results with this, hitting the centre of the clubface more often than ever, nice trajectory, good distance and when I do it right it feels almost effortless.

 

Weird thing is when I do freezers I hit huge pulls.

 

Struggling a little with driver though. Distance is good, but having a two way miss. Unless I get reaaally out of sync they're not big misses, I think I'm just getting a bit steep and coming OTT slightly.

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The chances that all of you guys who haven't worked with GG and are trying his pivot are doing it even close to correctly are very low surely?

Mizuno ST190G atmos 6s
Mizuno MP18 2fh / PX 6.0
Mizuno MP18 3-Pw/ PX 6.0
Mizuno S18 5310+5812/PX 6.0
Ping TR Anser 1966/ 34”

Ball - pro v1x
Grips - Crossline cord

Lofts 18 , 21.5, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 58

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After a great range session this morning (I am currently in Europe) and once more reviewing GG and DD images of the pivot I came up with some simple terms which work for me.

 

They are: Dump, Turn and Jump. Dump means a sitting down or squatting move, Turn is turning the left hip and chest out of the way without slide and Jump the kicking up of the pelvis/hips after the turn. The Dump and Turn seem to happen almost at the same time and the taking the Dump whilst Turning takes place almost over the back foot.

 

This is not an effort to say that the Bump, Dump and Turn video of Monte is not excellent because he explains very well that the bump is a very small movement and that the arms must be in front but for some reason the thought of Bump, Dump and Turn got me sliding the hips forward and dropping my arms behind me.

 

After reading this, I realize that it may be time to get back to the US.

 

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After a great range session this morning (I am currently in Europe) and once more reviewing GG and DD images of the pivot I came up with some simple terms which work for me.

 

They are: Dump, Turn and Jump. Dump means a sitting down or squatting move, Turn is turning the left hip and chest out of the way without slide and Jump the kicking up of the pelvis/hips after the turn. The Dump and Turn seem to happen almost at the same time and the taking the Dump whilst Turning takes place almost over the back foot.

 

This is not an effort to say that the Bump, Dump and Turn video of Monte is not excellent because he explains very well that the bump is a very small movement and that the arms must be in front but for some reason the thought of Bump, Dump and Turn got me sliding the hips forward and dropping my arms behind me.

 

After reading this, I realize that it may be time to get back to the US.

 

I think monte always said that you had to understand which parts of the BDT move you needed, many didn't need the bump , whereas that was the key for your stereotypical reverse pivoted swing

Mizuno ST190G atmos 6s
Mizuno MP18 2fh / PX 6.0
Mizuno MP18 3-Pw/ PX 6.0
Mizuno S18 5310+5812/PX 6.0
Ping TR Anser 1966/ 34”

Ball - pro v1x
Grips - Crossline cord

Lofts 18 , 21.5, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 58

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