Heat gun question for removing shafts

[1_Putt]

I am a hobbyist club junkie and have been using a micro torch for years to remove graphite shafts. I have had pretty good luck but with some of the newer composite heads such as RAZR Hawk I'm afraid even the micro torch may get a little tricky to keep from damamging the head or finish. So I want to give a heat gun a try.

How long does it typically take to heat a head with a heat gun before the head will come off?

Do you basically just point the heat gun at the hosel and leave it there? (with the micro torch you must move it around)

Is the highest temp you can get out of a gun best? Or can it be too high?

What temperature typically is used?

Where to find a good gun?

 

Thanks

[ronsc1985]

A lot depends on what kind of puller you have. With a hydraulic puller and a Makita heat gun set on max, about 1000 F, it takes a couple of minutes while continuously moving the gun around the hosel area. You can use most any heat gun.

It is better if the output is adjustable. Mine is, but I got it for wiring my race cars and it is probably overkill for removing shafts.

[NWS Alpine]

Use a torch. Much easier on those heads as you can hit a specific area with the heat. A heat gun is much harder to concentrate the heat. Use the gel or wet towel if you are worried.

[dlee360]

I have one of the golfsmith pullers and I head the hosel in 3 different spots for 15-20 seconds each and then start pulling..85% it works...the other 15% requires another 10 seconds at each spot and it generally then comes off.

[whatshannenin]

Both will work, but it depends on your puller as said and the type of epoxy used for the installation. Most good epoxies break down around 200-275 degrees. When pulling it's best to be patient, especially with composite heads. I will sometimes wrap the head with a wet towel leaving only the metal portion exposed and concentrate the heat there. One thing you have to be patient with, is allow the heat to transfer. Heat the head and stop for a couple seconds, if you continuously heat the head at 1000 degrees as mentioned above, you will potentially cause damage.

[TourTECH]

[quote name='NWS Alpine' timestamp='1307114256' post='3282214']
Use a torch. Much easier on those heads as you can hit a specific area with the heat. A heat gun is much harder to concentrate the heat. Use the gel or wet towel if you are worried.
[/quote]


+1 - I hate heat guns for this very reason, you have very little control over the area that heat is applied to. Torch is much easier to control. I wouldn't go near a composite head with a heat gun.

[Shaftology]

You can do it with a heat gun but, unlike other heads where I heat from the back of the hosel, I heat from the front of the face so it is the farthest away from the carbon fiber crown. It can take a good minute or more for the epoxy to break loose using constant pressure so BE PATIENT.

[Nick West]

I've been a professional clubmaker for 12 years, and done a LOT of reshafts. I would never use a torch on a painted head. First of all, it's damn near impossible to burn a head with a heat gun. It's pretty easy to do with a torch, for the fact that it's an open flame, and it's way too hot.

Second, there's no need to. A heat gun is more than adequate...never had a problem in all my years of club building. You really don't need that much heat to pull a shaft, the epoxy breaks down at relatively low temperatures.

[sandee]

what about pulling a shaft from FT-3 tour head and FT-IZ tour head?

[SergioKSU]

[quote name='TourTECH' timestamp='1307124945' post='3282637']
[quote name='NWS Alpine' timestamp='1307114256' post='3282214']
Use a torch. Much easier on those heads as you can hit a specific area with the heat. A heat gun is much harder to concentrate the heat. Use the gel or wet towel if you are worried.
[/quote]


+1 - I hate heat guns for this very reason, you have very little control over the area that heat is applied to. Torch is much easier to control. I wouldn't go near a composite head with a heat gun.
[/quote]

What are you guys using jet engines? My heat gun can keep the heat concentrated in a quarter sized area. Not to mention you can easily point it away from the head just like anything else.

They also make attachments that you can slide over the nose of the heat gun to concentrate it even further. I have one that has about a dime sized opening.

[Nick West]

Yeah, paint will react differently when exposed to open flame, as opposed to a dry heat of adequate temperature. An open flame can torch a head, and as I was saying before, it's almost impossible to torch a head with a heat gun.

I had the opportunity to cut open a Callaway FT head before. It was one that cracked on a customer, so it was just a throw-away. The hosel is actually welded only at the top and the bottom. There is no actual contact besides these two points....just open air. Which is the main reason why they are difficult to pull. You actually have to heat the head enough to transfer the heat up through one of these points.
I'll probably get blasted for saying this, but I use the hot rod method, combined with added heat with the heat gun. I've done a number of these, and have yet to see any come back broken as a result of my compromising the integrity of the shaft by excessive heat.

[sandee]

Hi nick west, would u explain how to pull a shaft from ft-3 or ft-iz ?the shaft seems straight into to the head.those driver doesn't seem like has hozel.....thx

[Nick West]

[quote name='sandee' timestamp='1307397326' post='3288651']
Hi nick west, would u explain how to pull a shaft from ft-3 or ft-iz ?the shaft seems straight into to the head.those driver doesn't seem like has hozel.....thx
[/quote]




They are probably the most difficult shaft pull that I know of.

There is a tool you can buy from Golfworks, that can be inserted into the1/8" hole in the end of the grip, and speads it, allowing access to the inside of the shaft. So, I use that tool, and then set the club up in the shaft puller. I also have fashioned a metal "collar" from an old washer, to fit between the plastic ferrule and the shaft puller, as to provide a better contact point betweent the ferrule and the shaft puller.

Next, I heat up a Golfsmith hot rod, and insert it down the shaft, via the grip. Then I'll start to apply soem pressure on the shaft puller, while heating the area where the weld is with a heat gun, trying to get the heat to transfer up the internal hosel.

I usually have to do this process about three times before it'll budge. You'lldestroy the ferrule, but with a little skill and a bit of luck, you'll make some headway.

Once the head it removed from the shaft, I immediately grab a pair of pliers, and pull the ferrule off, being VERY careful to pull up and twist at the same time. If you don't do this, and just twist, you'll probably damage the paint.

As I said before, I'll probably get a bit of flack for suggesting this method, as some people believe this will damage the shaft, and to be honest, there is definately a chance that could happen. It's really a matter of knowing how little heat you can get away with, and that just comes with experience. I've reinstalled many shafts that I've removed in this method, and have yet to have one come back broken. But that's not to say, it couldn't happen. They are really pretty tricky. I have damaged a head once....when that style head first came out. But there is an element of risk with clubmaking. Sometimes, you have to take a leap of faith and just use your know-how the best you can, and hope for the best.

The FT hosels only have two points of contact, and have nothing but open air inbetween. So applying heat anywhere else, is just increasing your chances of damaging the head.

Good luck.

[RookieBlue7]

Make sure to use cool gel if you're using a torch or heat gun. If you have one, do yourself a favor and use a heating rod.

[bosoxfan]

Is there is a non golf specific gel product that will work or do you have to use the golf works stuff?
KH

[CarloGolfer]

[quote name='TourTECH' timestamp='1307124945' post='3282637']
[quote name='NWS Alpine' timestamp='1307114256' post='3282214']
Use a torch. Much easier on those heads as you can hit a specific area with the heat. A heat gun is much harder to concentrate the heat. Use the gel or wet towel if you are worried.
[/quote]


+1 - I hate heat guns for this very reason, you have very little control over the area that heat is applied to. Torch is much easier to control. I wouldn't go near a composite head with a heat gun.
[/quote]


I found it difficult to concentrate the heat as well, but then picked up some attachments for my gun and it has been much easier since. I found mine at Ace or Home Depot, but it looked something like the nosels in this pack

http://www.hardwaresales.com/Accessories/Heat-Guns-Torches/Heat-Gun/Master-Appliance-35309-p6902640.html

[bosoxfan]

Anybody pulled a shaft from either a Superfast 2.0 or an R11? How careful do you need to be with the white finish? Any tips?
KH

[Scott@84]

[quote name='Nick West' timestamp='1307163204' post='3283787']
I've been a professional clubmaker for 12 years, and done a LOT of reshafts. I would never use a torch on a painted head. First of all, it's damn near impossible to burn a head with a heat gun. It's pretty easy to do with a torch, for the fact that it's an open flame, and it's way too hot.

Second, there's no need to. A heat gun is more than adequate...never had a problem in all my years of club building. You really don't need that much heat to pull a shaft, the epoxy breaks down at relatively low temperatures.
[/quote]

+1. Heat gun and some patience is all you need.

[ballmark]

[quote name='bosoxfan' timestamp='1308954492' post='3333536']
Is there is a non golf specific gel product that will work or do you have to use the golf works stuff?
KH
[/quote]

I use the golfworks spray gel. The paste works as well...spray isn't as messy.

On another note, the TEE heads are some tough heads to pull...heated them forever before the slid off. Any one else find them tough to pull?