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Driver 9.5 or 10.5 - much difference in distance and control ?


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Its more about the shaft. The total combination is the correct flex & kick of the shaft matched with the correct lofted driver for your swing. To get to this point you need to get on a launch monitor with a KNOWLEDGABLE tech--IMO that isn't GG, GS or Dick's cuz they jack their numbers and their ppl aren't all that knowledgable IMO. However if you are just pulling a driver off of the rack then a 10-10.5* loft is what works best for most ppl.

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I'm a high handicapper with mid 80's swing speed, so my input is my own personal experience. When the K15 first came out, I traded in a BUNCH of clubs in and tried at the Golf Galaxy simulator (along with a sales rep. advise) in 9.5 & 10.5 loft in the K15 driver. Went with the 9.5*, as I did a fitting about 5 yrs. in which was advised that 10* with a shorter staff, Reg. shaft were my optimum fit (I launch too high with too much spin). Also, was getting more distance with the 9.5* on the G.G. simulator. So, used that driver for about 3 rounds and was just slicing / out in the rough / out of play waaaaay too much.
Long story, sold it and got a pre-owned 10.5* K15 and was my driver last summer. More fairways with it. Still launches too high for my liking, but with the 9.5*, the slicing was too often and the few times that I was long and in play with it was way too few to keep it.

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To much is made of driver loft. Only the pros and top amateur have a consistent enough swing where there dynamic loft at impact with a driver is +/- 1*. Most amateurs don't have the enough control with their driver, to notice a great difference in 1* of loft.

I dont have a consistent swing, and have gone to a 12* driver at 43.5 in, I might have lost 10 yards compared to my 9.5* 45* driver, but I very rarely lose tee shots.

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I beleive you are talking about two separate problems. When most people get on a launch monitor and talk optimizing their numbers, that is for maximun distance. But just because you get an extra 10 or 15 yards with low spin and perfect launch angle for your ball speed, doesn't mean that will be your straightest driver. The extra backspin from a little more loft should reduce the effects of hook or slice spin. If you get too much loft/backspin the ball will ballon and the wind will blow it all over the place. I have a low spin 9.5* superdeep that goes a long way...but sometimes over houses black%20eye.gif I also have a much higher spinning 10.5* R9 460 that launches mortars even with the exact same shaft in both. For me, the 460 hits more fairways, but I loose about 25 yards.

J40 430/9.5/ahina70//Ping i25/AD-DI7S
TEE CB3/13*//Wishon 949mc/18*
Titleist 913H/D 23*/ Diamana S+ Blue 82
Mizuno MP-52/5-9/DGS300
Scratch raw metal 1018 D/S 47, 52, 56, 62
Ping Redwood Anser or TearDrop TD-20

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It does make a difference to me (high 90s swing speed). I have the Cobra L5V in both 9.5° and 10.5° and quite a few shafts with adapters to chose from. When hitting both heads with the same shafts, there is a noticeable difference in launch and length. I always get better results with the 10.5, no matter which shaft I put in.
One example: 10.5° with Blueboard 63S gives me near perfect launch monitor numbers for my swing speed and also works really well on the course. If I put this shaft in the 9.5° head, the ball flight is simply too low to give me the same overall length.
In order to get the same sort of launch with the 9.5° head, I have to put the stock made for Cobra "Redboard" in R-flex in. But that combination is extremely inconsistent and I hit it all over the place.

I see a gap. There definitely is a gap.

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Most people rightfully choose higher lofted drivers to mask ball striking errors, and realize maximum carry. What better golfers do, for a few reasons, is NOT a good reference point. Yes" - better golfers can benefit from as little as 1* manipulation and same shaft. To 15 index, however, not likely. The more loft the better. For control, look at the OA length of the driver and shaft profile, not 1 or 2* of loft.

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo Red 59S
  • TSR2 15° GD Tour AD-VF 74S
  • 718 T-MB 17 2i° Tensei AV White Am2 90S
  • T100 3i & 4i MMT 95S
  • T100 5i-9i MMT 105S
  • T100 PW MMT 105S Wedge 113
  • SM10 F52/12, T58/4, DG200 127S
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x or AVX
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  • 1 month later...

According to Tom Wishon, the three most important elements of driver fitting for distance and control 1] length, 2] loft, 3] face angle. After that, total weight, swing weight, and shaft. Tom says about the shaft: "Here’s the facts about the shaft. While the weight, the overall flex and the stiffness bend profile of the shaft has to be fit properly to all golfers, the shaft flex and bend profile are more important for golfers with a late release of the wrist-**** angle in the downswing than for golfers with an earlier release."

Afie, Ping is notorious for having an actual measured loft of up to 3° higher than what is stamped on the sole. In recently had a conversation with a guy who had his 10.5° G15 measured and it turned out to be just over 13° actual.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Also remember that there's no such thing as "side spin". It's a misnomer. It's that the axis of the spin is tilted to one side or another. When you have a club which produces a higher spin rate, the effect is that the axis of the spin is just not tilted as much (and the ball is spinning at a higher rpm).

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Lets remember, talking face angle can only be done in theory. Each OEM has tolerance factored in (some as much as 2*). That means a closed face driver could be square, even open, and an open 2* face, could be square... Titleist states that all it's drivers and woods are .5 open. To know exactly, one needs to know exactly what Titleist tolerances are, and when all else fails, have the face angle checked.

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo Red 59S
  • TSR2 15° GD Tour AD-VF 74S
  • 718 T-MB 17 2i° Tensei AV White Am2 90S
  • T100 3i & 4i MMT 95S
  • T100 5i-9i MMT 105S
  • T100 PW MMT 105S Wedge 113
  • SM10 F52/12, T58/4, DG200 127S
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x or AVX
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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote name='78blades' timestamp='1327067221' post='4123517']
Its more about the shaft. The total combination is the correct flex & kick of the shaft matched with the correct lofted driver for your swing. To get to this point you need to get on a launch monitor with a KNOWLEDGABLE tech-[size="4"]-[b]IMO that isn't GG, GS or Dick's cuz they [i][u]jack their numbers[/u][/i] and their ppl aren't all that knowledgable[/b] [/size]IMO. However if you are just pulling a driver off of the rack then a 10-10.5* loft is what works best for most ppl.
[/quote]



i could NOT agree more!!!!

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Driver Swing Speed 92 at 90%. I notch it down to about 90 on most fairways. Played an R7 reg shaft 10.5 degrees for years. Average driver distance was 230-240. This year i bought a 9 degree Nicklaus ML 4 55g regular shaft. Average driver distance is between 240 and 255. I hit most fairways. I know Wishon is a respected club maker but for me the combination I have now works better. I am not sure I agree that shaft flex is only a factor for those who lag properly.

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I beleive you are talking about two separate problems. When most people get on a launch monitor and talk optimizing their numbers, that is for maximun distance. But just because you get an extra 10 or 15 yards with low spin and perfect launch angle for your ball speed, doesn't mean that will be your straightest driver. The extra backspin from a little more loft should reduce the effects of hook or slice spin. If you get too much loft/backspin the ball will ballon and the wind will blow it all over the place. I have a low spin 9.5* superdeep that goes a long way...but sometimes over houses black%20eye.gif I also have a much higher spinning 10.5* R9 460 that launches mortars even with the exact same shaft in both. For me, the 460 hits more fairways, but I loose about 25 yards.

 

if your 10.5 degree driver is 25 yards less than your 9.5 degree driver why even bother with a 10.5 degree driver? if you are swinging well (playing your sunday best haha) you can use your 9.5 superdeep and get maximum distance but if your swing is a little loose that day just use a 3 wood and get the added benefit of loft and straightness and be about 25 yards behind your 9.5 superdeep.

 

note: i am making a big (but reasonable) assumption that a 3 wood is about 25 yards less than a driver.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

What I have found over many years of buying and trying clubs:
1) Indoor Launch monitors no matter if they are Trackman or some older vector is not the same as going to the course, during a round and hitting a shot.
2) Indoor monitors show more yardage than outside, they also mask slicing/hooking somewhat.
2) On an Indoor monitor I always hit a 9.5 or 10.5 farther, on the course I have control issues.
3) Taylormade and Ping drivers are normally from 1.5-3 degress higher than stamped.

For me I play a r9 460 11.5 (actial 13 degree with a Stiff Matrix HD6 or a 10.5 Cobra Encore Xl with a Firm Matrix HD6. Short, quick and 88-92 range swing spped.

Your mileage will vary.



Done for year selling it all.

 

 

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I also have been on monitors next to others I play with and it say they hit it further then me, but once on the course I bomb it past them. The other day we hit on a flightscope (I think was the name) at Golfsmith and it said my buddy hit it 15 yards further then me every time. He laughed at the guy and said when we get to the course today he will hit it 15 past me which is the total opposite of the readings. So like others have said the best judge I believe is hitting a club/shaft combo on the course first to make sure the results are real world results!

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  • 1 month later...

[quote name='phillygolf' timestamp='1327066627' post='4123473']
Have you tried the same head/shaft combo but in both 9.5 and 10.5 ?

Does that one degree make much difference in carry, overall distance, and control ?

Which worked better for you?
[/quote]

PhillyGolf:

A change in driver loft will not achieve the same result for all golfers because of the relationship between loft and swing speed and angle of attack.

For a golfer with an 85mph swing speed and a downward angle of attack, a move from 9.5 to 10.5 will result in a tiny bit more carry distance. But for a golfer with a 110mph swing speed and upward angle of attack, a move from 9.5 to 10.5 will result in a distance LOSS.

With regard to you asking about driver loft vs control, for 99% of all golfers, a change of 1* only on the driver would have minimal to no effect whatsoever on control. Control is a matter of club length + the face angle of the clubhead + the shaft weight + the swingweight + the grip size ( and for golfers with a later release, the shaft's flex and bend profile contributes to control as well).

For ALL GOLFERS, the best driver loft for maximum distance has to be carefully matched to the golfer's combination of clubhead speed + their angle of attack + the firmness/wetness of the fairways where they play most of their golf. And really, the only way to get that for sure and to avoid a costly trial and error process is to be properly fit by a good, experienced custom clubfitter.

TOM

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[quote name='TiDriver' timestamp='1338695985' post='5020282']
how does ball spin rate get affected by loft if at all?
[/quote]

Absolutely, positively, loft is the first most influential element on backspin. Clubhead speed is #2. The higher the loft, the more backspin is generated on the shot and the higher the clubhead speed, the more spin is generated for any given loft on the shot.

As a benchmark of reference for this, all other things on the club being equal, for a 100mph clubhead speed with a driver, for each 1* loft increase, spin increases by around 250 rpms and vice versa. For lower clubhead speeds, the RPM change is less for each 1* change in loft. For higher clubhead speeds the RPM change per degree change in loft is more.

TOM

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  • 1 year later...

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