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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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Do tell!

Bigmean- rather than posting here, decided to start my own progress thread once set is completed. So others understand what referencing- currently having a 2-pw set of raw forgings being ground to create a true zero tolerance set of blades and will share a bit more on my preferences if requested. Just didn't want to seem like monopolizing thread.

Titleist TSR2 10* (d4 surefit) Fujikura Motore Speeder 7.2s
Titleist 904f 17* YS7+s
Titleist 962b 3-pw s300
Cleveland zipcore tour rack custom 52* s400
Cleveland zipcore tour rack custom 58* s400
Ping Zing2 BeCu

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I don't have a mills yet, sad to say. You guys can kill the putter tangent at any time lol.

 

Nard, if you don't know, please ask any machinist friends about cad software that will give what I believe is the balance point? Of a drawing of a part. I have spent a few hours watching YouTube videos and scouring internets, I know solidworks does it, but from what I saw on YouTube that is like ridiculously serious software that simulates stress tests and is really professional aerospace style. Rhino cad is used in my industry, and it is actually really cheap at $650/Mac and $950/pc (trust me, that is cheap for software like that relatively speaking) and I am going to do a free 90 day trial of that since o can use it potentially for my work so I can see if I can A. Make clubheads and B. If so can I apply it for possible projects realistically, but the one thing I am having an issue with aside from going into a new cad program not knowing tool usage, order, process etc. is that I need the sweetspot to be identified so that as weight is moved it moves etc.

 

The thing I mentioned about community college, my brother just did that. I will ask what kind of CAD he has (he does the same type of work I do,he runs his own shop).

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Biggie I am 100% with you on the technical insignificance of toe vs face balance and also the "blades" mentality. Give me a month to practice with a blade putter and I'll bet that I can game it as well as my Bosa (aka 'RainBow').

 

The velocity of a putter head is sooo slow and so if your hands can't adjust to slight differences in head balance and total weight, then I'm sorry but you are making a psychological excuse rather than a technical one. I know I said I like toe balance and a heavy putter but honestly I care much more about the length (33" to 34" always) and that the face angle is square to the flat grip front. Everything else is minutia details.

On the other hand...OK, maybe it's the same hand but here's a thought that strikes me when I miss a good strike with my 8802 style. It lets me know where I missed it so I might correct it. If this sounds like I'm poking fun or pulling chains, it's probably because I kind of am. On the other hand...The blade putter (low cg flow neck?) is, besides the bladey goombas on this thread, de facto my strongest recent connection to the blade world and it's been so great it has made me ponder the irons more seriously than I otherwise might have.

 

Irons are same thing. I may have failed to mention this in my thread about my round the other day, but I forgot to remove my BB pw from my bag, and I used it over the CB PW twice in my round. I did it as litmus test to me playing well. Yes only a pw but 2 GIR off it, and one pretty close, the other 25 ft but that was the winds fault. One was flushed, the other not but a small mis. Ball traveled well and the mis was my closer shot, and the feel difference we blade guys love is this, I know I was a tad to the toe, in fact it felt so different than what I had been feeling I expected it to be short, but the reality was it went as the CB would have except I know I hit it toward the toe a bit. A miss that small with the CB would have felt ok. I know that close miss with the small blades well, it is a good thwack without the rewarding jackpot feel. Your putter comparison is the same thing on putts. That mallet is going to mask that small miss a lot more, even though the roll with each and same miss may only result in an extra 5% roll off the mallet, it is essentially the same result. A putter specifically you DONT want that help because as I have said I believe speed trumps line in putting, and there is only one way to acquire speed control in putting, and that is to light up a dime sized area at the sweetspot an not miss it. No one wants to hear it with irons, but it is same principle.

The secret of this thread is not the subject matter. It's the mad, frenzied array of super geeks super freaking out. Poets, preachers and engineers. I believe those are your options at Queen's University. Located in Kingston. Canadian Ivy League, if you will. Snobbery, like the usual butterknife against and versus frying pan. These are only tools, if your obsession rides in the sky, you can make mashed potatoes with most any tool or technique. Pardon the ramble and play your own A game.
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Says the CB user.

 

The secret IS the blades and the science behind them. It enables the madness. They are the best tools for ballstriking based on the science alone.

 

Come into the light, dog flog...

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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You cannot avoid the science whether you want to or not. Physics = the science of physical reality. If a clubhead is going to have a different shape or material makeup than another, it's going to have different performance that will be proportional to the magnitude of the difference.

 

Take an mp-4 and make it out of aluminum but add a layer of chrome on top and by golly it will look as divine as a normal one. But without a doubt it's gonna perform differently. Bank on it.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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In case anyone didn't get the Corey Hart reference, here's a visual aid.

 

Trust me, I would never get the Cory Hart reference...........just saying.

Of course, he's Canadian. Being big in Canadian music is tough for a Canadian male musician, like being a Korean male golfer. If only I were American or Se Ri Pak and not K. J..No major record deal for me.
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...

I don't play my MBs over my CBs for any other reason than feel/soul. I won't claim I can work/control the ball with any more control with my MBs. I know the science is there (Deninny), but my skill level negates that for the most part.

...

 

My friend buzlin, I noticed your CBs are J15s. CBs with a muscle. With that muscle, your CBs will have *almost* as much reinforcement behind the ball at impact as your MBs, so it will be *almost* as workable. And *almost* may be to the point of insignificance. So perhaps it is NOT your skill level that negates the workability difference, perhaps it is the fact that you play CBs that...wait for it...might as well be blades...

 

Just a thought supported by science.

 

And to your point, that perimeter weighting around the CB head is what is changing the feel/soul.

 

When I played my mp60s and 67s I could barely tell a workability difference (regardless of my index which varied between 16 and 8). And those mp60s had less of a muscle than your J15s, so I can totally understand why they are just as workable as a MB.

 

Not all CBs are as detrimental as others. If you were to try to work an SGI CB for sure you would notice a difference with a MB.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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In case anyone didn't get the Corey Hart reference, here's a visual aid.

 

Trust me, I would never get the Cory Hart reference...........just saying.

Of course, he's Canadian. Being big in Canadian music is tough for a Canadian male golfer, like being a Korean male golfer. If only I were American or born a chick...Seriously though...it's funny 'cause it's true.

 

Well you could of referenced Rush, hell Bryan Adams, Nickelback (Ithink).........Corey Hart? Why not Air Supply?

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Air Supply? Corey Hart? Ugh...

 

At least go with Triumph or April Wine...

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM BRNR Mini 11.5* at 9.5*, 43.5", NV75X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80X, 43.25"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Mizuno TPM-2 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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In case anyone didn't get the Corey Hart reference, here's a visual aid.

 

Trust me, I would never get the Cory Hart reference...........just saying.

Of course, he's Canadian. Being big in Canadian music is tough for a Canadian male golfer, like being a Korean male golfer. If only I were American or born a chick...Seriously though...it's funny 'cause it's true.

 

Well you could of referenced Rush, hell Bryan Adams, Nickelback (Ithink).........Corey Hart? Why not Air Supply?

Air Supply is Australian. We get confused a lot. Both travel well and both get lost in a groove real easy.
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Metric is my fav Canadian band.

 

http://youtu.be/jq3-wZs64n4

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I just spent an hour on my 90day trial of rhino cad. I got a block, a face, made the curve for the sole but struggled on making it go across the sole. Also filleted planes. It is going to take a fair amount of you tube videos and breaking habits of hot buttons that work in my cad at work, but I think If I keep trying to free draw putters eventually I will learn how to use the functions I will need to be able to attempt to make a real design idea.

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[Air Supply is Australian. We get confused a lot. Both travel well and both get lost in a groove real easy.

 

They could easily tour together though. :)

 

You want to reference freaks and geeks, you could not do much better than Rush but I am guessing that your point was something other........something Unicorn frappuccino-ish..............not really sure.

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Biggie I am 100% with you on the technical insignificance of toe vs face balance and also the "blades" mentality. Give me a month to practice with a blade putter and I'll bet that I can game it as well as my Bosa (aka 'RainBow').

 

The velocity of a putter head is sooo slow and so if your hands can't adjust to slight differences in head balance and total weight, then I'm sorry but you are making a psychological excuse rather than a technical one. I know I said I like toe balance and a heavy putter but honestly I care much more about the length (33" to 34" always) and that the face angle is square to the flat grip front. Everything else is minutia details.

On the other hand...OK, maybe it's the same hand but here's a thought that strikes me when I miss a good strike with my 8802 style. It lets me know where I missed it so I might correct it. If this sounds like I'm poking fun or pulling chains, it's probably because I kind of am. On the other hand...The blade putter (low cg flow neck?) is, besides the bladey goombas on this thread, de facto my strongest recent connection to the blade world and it's been so great it has made me ponder the irons more seriously than I otherwise might have.

 

Funnily enough I practice with my 8813 for the sole purpose of getting that intense feedback you get on mishits...that and the fact there is no better feeling putter out there. I spend 10 minutes putting with the 8813 and then switch to one of my Anser-type putters and just get the feeling that I can't miss. I have a short period every season when my putting is so grooved that the 8813 gets into the bag...until I start missing the three footers again and it gets benched. ;-)

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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doctordwayne those are a surgeon's scalpels. Really beautiful. But remember, "It takes a steady hand..."

 

 

(I keed.)

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Ok it is specs time. Here are my specs for both my baby blade and wedge sets. The black boron set is the lower one. Just curious if anyone else is this anal about keeping track of everything for their clubs. Also I was looking for some input and possible tweaks.

 

I also noticed why I like the black boron set a little more. They have higher swing weight (D3 vs D1.5) and they have a more consistent at D3 SW vs my satin ones start getting heavier SW at the short irons. But also the key to me is that they have a heavier SW, AND...they are overall lighter clubs. So the way I see it, I can swing them faster because they are overall lighter but the SW is heavier so I feel them in my hands more.

 

 

 

Oh also my Japanese buddy brought this by my desk yesterday. Thought I'd share. I don't know about anybody else, but when I touch and hold a Miura or Miura-Giken head, it just oozes beauty and quality.

 

 

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I just spent an hour on my 90day trial of rhino cad. I got a block, a face, made the curve for the sole but struggled on making it go across the sole. Also filleted planes. It is going to take a fair amount of you tube videos and breaking habits of hot buttons that work in my cad at work, but I think If I keep trying to free draw putters eventually I will learn how to use the functions I will need to be able to attempt to make a real design idea.

 

Bigmean a milled blade with your CNC may be a fun 'spearmint someday. CAD up a head that is even a few mm shorter and muscle thicker than your bb. LOL an 'embryo' blade.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Ok it is specs time. Here are my specs for both my baby blade and wedge sets. The black boron set is the lower one. Just curious if anyone else is this anal about keeping track of everything for their clubs. Also I was looking for some input and possible tweaks.- DNI

 

Irons: D2

Wedges: D5

Metals: D2

 

Pulling Hogans & Mizuno MP metals, switching out so clubs from 3W->SW are all DG S300's with same weighting and kick. Driver has a Speeder shaft. Do not like swinging anything under D2

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