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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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Biggie,

 

Do you have any photos of the Xenon yet?

 

If so, would love to see a few.

 

Big fan of Lumpy's work.

 

PS - the man from Singapore (if it's who I think) is the 'Real McCoy') with some amazing putters.

 

Just re-read your previous post and it appears you don't have photos yet.

 

Cheers

 

I am sure it is the same guy, he posts a lot at JDM clubhouse (I have been trying to spend more time there), he is a super nice guy on top of really being someone who has had a treasure trove of gear in his hands.

 

I have pics, Here is the for sale listing with photos:

 

http://jdmclubhouse.com/index.php?topic=4898.0

 

If you have any insight on this or the cuni please let me know, I sorta bought this one a little blind....my gut just kept saying to do it.

 

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Biggie,

 

Do you have any photos of the Xenon yet?

 

If so, would love to see a few.

 

Big fan of Lumpy's work.

 

PS - the man from Singapore (if it's who I think) is the 'Real McCoy') with some amazing putters.

 

Just re-read your previous post and it appears you don't have photos yet.

 

Cheers

 

I am sure it is the same guy, he posts a lot at JDM clubhouse (I have been trying to spend more time there), he is a super nice guy on top of really being someone who has had a treasure trove of gear in his hands.

 

I have pics, Here is the for sale listing with photos:

 

http://jdmclubhouse.com/index.php?topic=4898.0

 

If you have any insight on this or the cuni please let me know, I sorta bought this one a little blind....my gut just kept saying to do it.

 

Unfortunately I'm not a member so I can't view the images. I'll wait to see the in-hand pictures and see what information I can provide.

 

I have copper, brass, GSS, and ALBZ Xenon's in my collection at the moment. I'll try my hand at a CUNI someday.

 

Also confess that I've always been fond of the look of a mini but have never rolled one.

Cobra King F9 10.5*
Cobra F9 14.5*
Cobra 18.5*
Adams Super S Hybrids 22*, 25*
NCW 24*, 28*, 33*, 38*, 43*, 48*, 53*
Mac Custom Grind 58* (NevadaGolfGuy Special)
Bradley, Geom, Machine, Mannkrafted, Ping, Rife, SGC, Scotty, Tad Moore, Xenon

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Love it how this thread is going strong. I alternate back between my shovels and Titleist 712MBs. No difference in the scores. I'm not playing as much these days so the Pings help out for my lack of practice but make me choose between the two which one to get rid of forever well then the Titleist MBs stay. :D

Ping G430 LST 98 VenTUS Red TR 5 Stiff

Ping G410 5 Wood Aldila Rogue 130MSI 80 X

Ping G430 Max 7 Wood VA Composites Drago 65 Stiff

Ping G425 Max 9 wood Ventus Blus 7S

Ping G710 5-PW KBS Tour

Ping S159 50 54 58

Ping Anser 2

 

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BM, you'll decide how you feel about the CuNi material, but it's about a $300 material cost premium to the standard Xenon metals (stainless, carbon steel, brass, copper, aluminum bronze), so you're looking at $800+ for that putter new. Even still, the opportunity to have that metal as a made-for-you handmade (shape and all specs to your preference) at that price is an absolute bargain relative to anything by Tyson Lamb, Bettinardi, or Scotty (all are CNC milled - read, stock). Obviously, yours is not made for you, but hopefully it'll be perfect for you. FYI, Xenon's CNC models are highly customizable and cheaper than the handmades.

 

Regarding feel, having almost all metals offered by Xenon, I am convinced that face thickness is the largest determinant of feel. I have stainless (Mokume face insert), brass, copper, CuNi, AlBz, stainless Damascus, and niobium (~$500-600 premium), and while each has their own character, those with similar face thickness feel quite similar. Copper probably gets my personal nod for feel:cost.

 

Going custom with my putters was the best golf decision I've made. Having something made to my specs and visual preferences is just awesome, and, most importantly, my putting improved a lot. I got fitted and then had Lumpy design a putter according to some visual parameters I set and my exact specs. Now, anything Lumpy makes me in 34.5", 355g (within 1g...on a hand mill!!!), 67* lie angle, 4* loft, 5:00 toe hang, etc. The fun for me now is the visual variety. Lumpy's style is kind of a "garage" style, so being comfortable with a little less refined look is part of the price of entry.

 

More recently, I've found Bputters (actually, your seller introduced me to both Xenon and Bputters). Antonio has a variety of highly refined CNC models that can also be customized for spec and finishing details. His quality is unreal all around, and his finishes are the best I've seen. I have a mini version of his B15 Scuderia, and I'm trying to get him to design mini versions of 3-4 other models. Both Lumpy and Antonio are top-notch guys.

 

Sorry for the DeNinny-length post, guys.

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BM, you'll decide how you feel about the CuNi material, but it's about a $300 material cost premium to the standard Xenon metals (stainless, carbon steel, brass, copper, aluminum bronze), so you're looking at $800+ for that putter new. Even still, the opportunity to have that metal as a made-for-you handmade (shape and all specs to your preference) at that price is an absolute bargain relative to anything by Tyson Lamb, Bettinardi, or Scotty (all are CNC milled - read, stock). Obviously, yours is not made for you, but hopefully it'll be perfect for you. FYI, Xenon's CNC models are highly customizable and cheaper than the handmades.

 

Regarding feel, having almost all metals offered by Xenon, I am convinced that face thickness is the largest determinant of feel. I have stainless (Mokume face insert), brass, copper, CuNi, AlBz, stainless Damascus, and niobium (~$500-600 premium), and while each has their own character, those with similar face thickness feel quite similar. Copper probably gets my personal nod for feel:cost.

 

Going custom with my putters was the best golf decision I've made. Having something made to my specs and visual preferences is just awesome, and, most importantly, my putting improved a lot. I got fitted and then had Lumpy design a putter according to some visual parameters I set and my exact specs. Now, anything Lumpy makes me in 34.5", 355g (within 1g...on a hand mill!!!), 67* lie angle, 4* loft, 5:00 toe hang, etc. The fun for me now is the visual variety. Lumpy's style is kind of a "garage" style, so being comfortable with a little less refined look is part of the price of entry.

 

More recently, I've found Bputters (actually, your seller introduced me to both Xenon and Bputters). Antonio has a variety of highly refined CNC models that can also be customized for spec and finishing details. His quality is unreal all around, and his finishes are the best I've seen. I have a mini version of his B15 Scuderia, and I'm trying to get him to design mini versions of 3-4 other models. Both Lumpy and Antonio are top-notch guys.

 

Sorry for the DeNinny-length post, guys.

 

No need to apologize nor need to call me out. Post WTF you want. We are all big boys and can skip it or read it all.

 

Now I can't wait for a long post excuse! Thanks for the reminder!!! (Sorry this is so short...my bad...)

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Haha, that is awesome knowledge. Yes I found out about B putters as well from my xenon previous owner, and, I can sleep a lot easier with what you said on the material. What is funny is that I always am meaning to get a lumpy or Mann custom, but I really do fine with most putters I get as long as the eye fits and I can gel with it regarding line and speed. The great thing about this mini is that if I had to design one, I would have been really happy with it as it is. Should frame well, plumbers neck is perfect for it, looks like something I could see myself gaming off the bat. I may not have got the twisty neck, but what the hell, I like it on there. I am cool with the garage finish. So this is not plated, but a cuni alloy? I presume the nickel stops the oxidizing in the copper?

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Hey Biggie, both nickel and copper are more corrosion resistant than iron for sure, and nickel is an alloy in steel and iron precisely for that reason. But that said, it will oxidize. It is just slow to oxidize and it will form an oxide passivation layer which acts as a barrier to further oxidation.

 

Edit: It is tough to say whether it is the nickel or the copper stopping the oxidation. Both are highly resistant to it and the combination of the two as an alloy is even more.

 

Also...I'm not 100% sure but the Ni *may* make the Cu harder. Cu by itself is fairly malleable and soft.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Hey - I ma trying to make the switch to blades - from Srixon to Miura - played for the first time this weekend and felt like I immediately lost a club in length, has anyone else experienced this ? The lofts are identical (a little stronger) is this something that I just need to take some time to get used to ?

 

I will be going to the range to compare clubs side by side and see what distance differences that there are.

 

Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Having hit both, and wanted Miura's for several years, I would recommend you try the 965/945s from Srixon - in my opinion, better looking, and very forgiving for what they are.

 

I still have Miura wedges, but the Srixon blades are stunning, and probably just as rare.

[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Srixon z565 Speeder 569 Evo IV SR[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]TaylorMade RBZ 3 wood, [/size][/font][/color][color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Matrix Ozik R[/size][/font][/color]
[font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#a4a4a4"][size=2]Srixon U65 2 iron, Miyazaki S[/size][/color][/font]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Cobra F6 Hybrid 22 degrees RedTie S[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Srixon z945 5-pw w/ DG s200[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Miura Y 51 and K 56 DG Spinner, Yururi Raw 61 KBS [/size][/font][/color][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#a4a4a4][size=2]HiRev[/size][/color][/font]
[font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#a4a4a4"][size=2]Odyssey O-Works Black 34"[/size][/color][/font]

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Biggie,

 

Do you have any photos of the Xenon yet?

 

If so, would love to see a few.

 

Big fan of Lumpy's work.

 

PS - the man from Singapore (if it's who I think) is the 'Real McCoy') with some amazing putters.

 

Just re-read your previous post and it appears you don't have photos yet.

 

Cheers

 

Does anyone have the contact details of the guy in Singapore? I have an idea who it may be, but I am on the look out for a bullseye type putter, as I am really struggling with my Scotty at the moment. I rented some 40 year old clubs in Scotland that had a banged up old bullseye and it was absolute money!

[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Srixon z565 Speeder 569 Evo IV SR[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]TaylorMade RBZ 3 wood, [/size][/font][/color][color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Matrix Ozik R[/size][/font][/color]
[font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#a4a4a4"][size=2]Srixon U65 2 iron, Miyazaki S[/size][/color][/font]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Cobra F6 Hybrid 22 degrees RedTie S[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Srixon z945 5-pw w/ DG s200[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=2]Miura Y 51 and K 56 DG Spinner, Yururi Raw 61 KBS [/size][/font][/color][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#a4a4a4][size=2]HiRev[/size][/color][/font]
[font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#a4a4a4"][size=2]Odyssey O-Works Black 34"[/size][/color][/font]

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Hey Biggie, both nickel and copper are more corrosion resistant than iron for sure, and nickel is an alloy in steel and iron precisely for that reason. But that said, it will oxidize. It is just slow to oxidize and it will form an oxide passivation layer which acts as a barrier to further oxidation.

 

Edit: It is tough to say whether it is the nickel or the copper stopping the oxidation. Both are highly resistant to it and the combination of the two as an alloy is even more.

 

Also...I'm not 100% sure but the Ni *may* make the Cu harder. Cu by itself is fairly malleable and soft.

 

Ni Cu is extremely corrosion resistant and extremely expensive. Nickel in itself is soft too. If I were to make my own putter that would be the alloy I would use. The alloy is very tough to machine, real gummy, loves to destroy tools because it work hardens when cutting. As a testimony to it's durability.I made some parts that used this stuff. The parts were for oil drilling heads,

 

BM landed a good find.

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Hey Biggie, both nickel and copper are more corrosion resistant than iron for sure, and nickel is an alloy in steel and iron precisely for that reason. But that said, it will oxidize. It is just slow to oxidize and it will form an oxide passivation layer which acts as a barrier to further oxidation.

 

Edit: It is tough to say whether it is the nickel or the copper stopping the oxidation. Both are highly resistant to it and the combination of the two as an alloy is even more.

 

Also...I'm not 100% sure but the Ni *may* make the Cu harder. Cu by itself is fairly malleable and soft.

 

Ni Cu is extremely corrosion resistant and extremely expensive. Nickel in itself is soft too. If I were to make my own putter that would be the alloy I would use. The alloy is very tough to machine, real gummy, loves to destroy tools because it work hardens when cutting. As a testimony to it's durability.I made some parts that used this stuff. The parts were for oil drilling heads,

 

BM landed a good find.

 

I am so glad and thankful that you have so much hands on experience with metals!

 

Yeah it seems that the combination of the two into an alloy is greater than the sum of each individual part when it comes to the tensile strength and work hardening of it. Gummy is a good adjective. I used tensile strength as the technical term as to why it is 'gummy', but I'm not sure that is all of it. I can imagine some alloys just sort of absorb a cutting edge but then they become very hard to actually fracture and literally split. It is the opposite of brittle too.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Driver: PING G410 LST, Ping Tour 65X

3 Wood: PING G400, Project x EvenFlow Blue 75 6.5

3 Hybrid: PING G410, Ping Tour 85 X

Irons: Mizuno MP-5 (4-PW), Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: PING Glide (50SS, 54WS, 58ES), Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400

Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2.5

Ball: Taylormade TP5 (Pix or Yellow)

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Hey Biggie, both nickel and copper are more corrosion resistant than iron for sure, and nickel is an alloy in steel and iron precisely for that reason. But that said, it will oxidize. It is just slow to oxidize and it will form an oxide passivation layer which acts as a barrier to further oxidation.

 

Edit: It is tough to say whether it is the nickel or the copper stopping the oxidation. Both are highly resistant to it and the combination of the two as an alloy is even more.

 

Also...I'm not 100% sure but the Ni *may* make the Cu harder. Cu by itself is fairly malleable and soft.

 

Ni Cu is extremely corrosion resistant and extremely expensive. Nickel in itself is soft too. If I were to make my own putter that would be the alloy I would use. The alloy is very tough to machine, real gummy, loves to destroy tools because it work hardens when cutting. As a testimony to it's durability.I made some parts that used this stuff. The parts were for oil drilling heads,

 

BM landed a good find.

 

I am so glad and thankful that you have so much hands on experience with metals!

 

Yeah it seems that the combination of the two into an alloy is greater than the sum of each individual part when it comes to the tensile strength and work hardening of it. Gummy is a good adjective. I used tensile strength as the technical term as to why it is 'gummy', but I'm not sure that is all of it. I can imagine some alloys just sort of absorb a cutting edge but then they become very hard to actually fracture and literally split. It is the opposite of brittle too.

 

The material is very malleable (like you said, opposite of brittle), conductive and highly corrosion resistant. Used a lot in electrical connectors for extreme environments (hence the parts I was contracted to make).

 

The work hardening aspect to machining it is something that needs to be avoided at all costs. Requires slow cutting speeds and high feed rates When done right, tooling still takes a beating.

 

The stuff costs roughly 9X-10X the price of medical stainless steels. Nickel is what makes stainless, well stainless.

 

If the guy used a nice design, the putter should be sweet feeling.

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

Hogan FT Worth 15's have a pretty nice sole. Clubs are being sold on closeout now.

 

I find the sole design of the Wilson FG 59 to be quite nice, nice radius blends, to them, good thru the turf.

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

945's or 965's, and Maltby MMB17.

[b][color=#8b4513]Wyoming[/color] [color=#ffd700]Cowboys[/color][/b]

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

I think the MP-32 is the highest bounce blade that I have ever come across personally.

 

As to any guidance that I can give you please note the following issues with bounce (all other things equal):

 

1) Higher bounce actually makes the true 'bottom' of the club lower, relatively speaking compared to a lower bounce club, than the leading edge of the face. This is 100% NOT good in terms of avoiding hitting the ground before the face contacts the ball. When, again all other things equal, a higher bounce is implemented on a club and the true 'bottom' of the sole is made lower, then that part that is literally lower will, unequivocally, be prone to contact with the ground when there otherwise would NOT be anything to contact the ground, as is the case with the lower bounce club. So based on this alone, when you play a higher bounce club it is actually MORE prone to ground-before-ball contact.

 

2) Higher bounce does NOT reroute the clubhead. I will repeat: higher bounce does NOT reroute the clubhead. Meaning, it will not help the clubhead "skid" or "dig" less than a lower bounce clubhead (again all other things equal). I know there will be folks up in arms as soon as they read this but I'm sorry, but neither sand nor soft turf will change the forward momentum of a clubhead in the amount of time that it takes to contact the ball and actually "save" a fat shot. It is an aerodynamics problem and the ground and the sand are merely media that get in the way of the clubhead and just SLOW IT DOWN rather than reroute it. So I'm sorry, but if you believe that higher bounce is helping you to reroute the path of the clubhead, it will do NOTHING of the sort. It will only serve to slow the clubhead down through ANY media. When a clubhead takes a normal divot it does not reroute based on the bounce of the club so the same thing happens when the shot is fat: the clubhead does NOT reroute.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

One more (might not be true though), I heard that both Ping and Callaway have higher bounce than most other OEM's. You may want to look into those.

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Nard, all of your points about CuNi ring very true from my conversations with Lumpy.

 

Bingo, I'd be quite surprised if he has any bullseye-style putters. He's not a dealer, btw; just an avid putter guy. If I were you, I'd have Lumpy make me one to your exact specs and preferences.

 

DeNinny, don't worry, you accomplished your normal post length by quoting mine, which is always great. Don't get your shorts in a bunch; it's all in good fun. Plus, I'm hoping you'll collect and publish all your posts from this thread. Suggested title:

Ode to Pedanticism and Redundancy - Can you hear me now? Can you HEAR ME now? CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW? ?

 

We love you.

 

BM, you should feel really good about that pick up.

 

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Nard, all of your points about CuNi ring very true from my conversations with Lumpy.

 

Bingo, I'd be quite surprised if he has any bullseye-style putters. He's not a dealer, btw; just an avid putter guy. If I were you, I'd have Lumpy make me one to your exact specs and preferences.

 

DeNinny, don't worry, you accomplished your normal post length by quoting mine, which is always great. Don't get your shorts in a bunch; it's all in good fun. Plus, I'm hoping you'll collect and publish all your posts from this thread. Suggested title:

Ode to Pedanticism and Redundancy - Can you hear me now? Can you HEAR ME now? CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW?

 

We love you.

 

BM, you should feel really good about that pick up.

 

I'm not worried. I'm having fun quoting and responding to you. Given your repeat call outs about my posts, we should collaborate on a series of books. It seems we have a penchant for repetition.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

I've got the S55s (will be trying the iBlades in the next week or so too!) and have the Cobra Fly Z Pros as my current MBs.

I'll take them to the range at the same time and swap them out here and there and there is no impact on my ball striking (for better and unfortunately for worse) nor do I notice any big difference going through the turf.

 

I have no clue what the bounce is like between them, but that's my experience from playing them the past year and a half, with probably 75 rounds between them. HTH.

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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Just come back from the local secondhand shop...they have a 3i-PW set of Georges Spirits GT-MB irons in. The shaft is DGS200, so not a total deal breaker. Forged from S20C steel. I hit them (the 3i, 5i, 7i, and 9i), and I love them. For comparison, I hit the Miura MB5003 (?) MBs alongside. Very different feel, but both great. I really want to take the plunge on these George Spirits, but I'm short of golf funds this month (just bought two putters) and I have to shift a set or two before I can get a new one.

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Went to the range for the first time in a while today. Brought just three clubs. A Titleist 983K Japanese (hi-cor) I picked up for nothing last year, A DP30 6 iron. And a Bridgestone J15 50 degree,

 

Loved the DP30. The set I have has all S400. Little to no effort at all and the 6 was flying 180 and with a little effort they were going well beyond that. I usually have a little draw and with these it was no different, but they all started right where I wanted them too.

 

The shaft on the driver, makes me happy I switched to a little stronger flex. Just nothing but lefts out of the old YS-6.

 

MY last two rounds were ugly. I've just been disgusted with the state of my game. I think I posted one of the highest numbers ever on a single hole. And, I can see GOLF this year just being a write-off, as I just welcomed a little girl to the world, I've got a 3 week vacation in Canada this July (where I plan to play the majority of this year's golf, like 2-3 times), then I've got nasal surgery ( a week in the hospital in August, back here in Japan). So golf falls a long way down, as far as priorities go.

 

And that's the way it goes with this game, for me. Last year I played some really great golf. My wife was working a lot still, so I just focused on my game. Practiced every chance I got and played around 2-3 times a month. I got it under par a few times and my worst games... Well, I'd take them in a heartbeat this year.

 

Maybe I will get out a few times in the Fall.... Until then, I think I will stick to practicing with this set (THE DP30) for the rest of the year. And, god help me if I can enjoy this game again.

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C_T_S

Firstly, congratulations on your first child. Second, make sure she picks up a really cool Kyoto accent. Mine speaks in a mix of broad Kitakyushu and Fukuoka dialects. She uses it on her bewildered English cousins, and it's comedy gold.

 

When my daughter was born, I obviously found I had less time for golf, but what I started to do is get up early to practise. I found a place near me that's 1,000 yen from 6.00am to 8.50am for as many balls as you can hit (shorter hours in winter). My daughter was/is not an early to bed type, but once asleep, she is out until morning, so it was easy enough for me to get up early, go practise, and be back before she wakes. That made it easier on the wife (who usually woke up just before I got back).

Now my daughter is in kindergarten, she is going to bed early and waking up earlier as well, so I am going back to evening practice times (after 8.30pm when she is asleep).

TL;DR version: The Dad's golf practice times get tailored around child's sleep patterns, which keeps Mom (relatively) happy

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Serious question for the blade aficionados here in this thread- Any suggestions for a set of muscle backs with a high bounce? For reference, I love the turf interaction of my S55s but would love a muscle back set with a similar bounce/sole.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

Mizuno MP-14 and MP-11/MS-11 are fairly high bounce. I have a set of the latter, they have 5° to 6° bounce in the 3 iron thru 9 iron, and 7° in the PW. MP-37s have the same bounce numbers as the MP-11.

 

MP-33 don't have a high bounce number, around 3° IIRC, but the sole grind on them was revolutionary at the time. A lot of clubs from that point forward been created in their image, at least in part.

 

edited to add: the Srixon blades of the last couple years, with the V-sole, have a healthy amount of bounce.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Nard, all of your points about CuNi ring very true from my conversations with Lumpy.

 

Bingo, I'd be quite surprised if he has any bullseye-style putters. He's not a dealer, btw; just an avid putter guy. If I were you, I'd have Lumpy make me one to your exact specs and preferences.

 

DeNinny, don't worry, you accomplished your normal post length by quoting mine, which is always great. Don't get your shorts in a bunch; it's all in good fun. Plus, I'm hoping you'll collect and publish all your posts from this thread. Suggested title:

Ode to Pedanticism and Redundancy - Can you hear me now? Can you HEAR ME now? CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW?

 

We love you.

 

BM, you should feel really good about that pick up.

 

The only thing I wanted to add to the topic is that the NiCu has the trade name of "Monel" if anybody had any desire to look further into the stuff,.

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That is good to hear about the spirits irons, I have really really wanted to try something from him but never quit had anything line up. The Sakura cbs are beautiful, the Sakura MBs are a little edgy but also really nice looking.

 

 

You guys have me super stoked on the xenon! Can't wait to get it and I am super stoked to have that fire express shaft waiting for it. Should be a sweet mini.

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C_T_S

Firstly, congratulations on your first child. Second, make sure she picks up a really cool Kyoto accent. Mine speaks in a mix of broad Kitakyushu and Fukuoka dialects. She uses it on her bewildered English cousins, and it's comedy gold.

 

When my daughter was born, I obviously found I had less time for golf, but what I started to do is get up early to practise. I found a place near me that's 1,000 yen from 6.00am to 8.50am for as many balls as you can hit (shorter hours in winter). My daughter was/is not an early to bed type, but once asleep, she is out until morning, so it was easy enough for me to get up early, go practise, and be back before she wakes. That made it easier on the wife (who usually woke up just before I got back).

Now my daughter is in kindergarten, she is going to bed early and waking up earlier as well, so I am going back to evening practice times (after 8.30pm when she is asleep).

TL;DR version: The Dad's golf practice times get tailored around child's sleep patterns, which keeps Mom (relatively) happy

 

Thank you sir,

 

I didn't mention that my wife and daughter came to the range today.... It was her first time (my daughter) and she was very easy/quiet. Actually the reason I went is one of her friends needs to learn golf ( company's orders) and I live nearby, so all of us went down together - other wise I probably would've just stayed on the couch...

 

Both ranges near my house open at 10am so practicing early is kind of out.... Though there are an abundance of river side ball fields. I can go whenever with an old beat up wedge.

 

What I miss... What my game misses is a short course to get the wedges sharp and keep them that way. Back in Canada I've got a really good relationship with some folks that own a little 18 hole par 3 and I could live there. After a week I could have the ship righted, but then I'll come back to Japan and not get a chance to play for two months. And then... Momentum gone. Enthusiasm snuffed.

 

Before coming back here 3 years ago I played in a couple Vancouver Golf Tour events (they are starting to get a pretty decent little alumni) and I was pretty respectable, but now I am just slapping it around, pulling driver everywhere because I have no confidence and because the next time I will play is at the end of May.

 

I hope I don't sound like too big of a whiner. I know things will change... And I do have a supportive wife...

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Just come back from the local secondhand shop...they have a 3i-PW set of Georges Spirits GT-MB irons in. The shaft is DGS200, so not a total deal breaker. Forged from S20C steel. I hit them (the 3i, 5i, 7i, and 9i), and I love them. For comparison, I hit the Miura MB5003 (?) MBs alongside. Very different feel, but both great. I really want to take the plunge on these George Spirits, but I'm short of golf funds this month (just bought two putters) and I have to shift a set or two before I can get a new one.

 

Googled those George Spirit irons and the ones with the curves muscle are interesting to say the least... But the version with the straight muscle look really good, I'm hoping those were the ones you hit!

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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